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Terry

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Everything posted by Terry

  1. lol, good point :P I've considered aftermarket rims, but none of them really appeal to me (guess I'm old fashioned, lol) I'm considering 17" stock rims because it looks stock but is slightly bigger than my current 16", also I need new tyres so I figured it is a better time as any. However, if I can't find anything good, no big deal, just get new tyres for my current rims, thought I'd give it a shot :P
  2. yeah they probably aren't the 'nicest' looking rim around, but I'm after something which will look stock on my car :P I'm considering the series2 Aurion Sportivo rims which are on eBay at the moment, but not really a fan of how they would look on my car. I went to the dealership to take a look, and the rims on their own look very nice, but once next to my car, I had second thoughts, lol. Nevertheless, I'll still consider them ;)
  3. Hey everyone, I'm just after the stock rims from a ACV40R Gen6 Camry Sportivo, they are 17" and look like this: Preferably without much gutter rash. And with tyres preferably, but will consider ones without tyres too. I'm located in Sydney.
  4. Terry

    Shock Absorbers

    I actually found out what was causing the thumping noise today. It wasn't the shocks or bearings or anything like that, it was the rear control arm. When I first went to Pedders a long time ago, they didn't do the locknut up tight enough on the control arm when they did my wheel alignment, so the control arm was wobbling about and making noise <_< One would assume that when I got my shocks installed by a different Pedders a few months later, they would do a wheel alignment and do this locknut up properly then...no such luck, they left it loose aswell. Also when I took it to this Pedders, I got them to do polyurethane front control arm bushings while they had my car there. Yes they did them, and yes they are fine, BUT they didnt do the control arm bushing bolt up tight, so that night it started banging very loudly when I drove, so I had to take it back. so now I know why people don't like Pedders. Been to two different shops, both screwed something up.
  5. Terry

    Shock Absorbers

    I bought the shocks themselves from Wholesale Suspension in Blacktown, got them for $150 per shock...probably not the cheapest, but cheaper than Autobarn/Repco anyway :P I was getting polyurethane bushings done by Pedders Bankstown at the time aswell, so I got them to install the shocks too, that part cost $250 including wheel alignment.
  6. Terry

    Shock Absorbers

    I got the KYB Excel-G shocks installed the other week. I am quite happy with them :) stiffer than stock, however not uncomfortable :)
  7. Terry

    Shock Absorbers

    cool, I'll give that place a try and see what they can do :) @trentmeyer, wow $110 does sound good, which place did you those from? I live in Sydney (near Olympic Park) anybody recommend good places I could buy KYB shocks from or a good suspension installer?
  8. Terry

    Shock Absorbers

    Thanks for the info guys :) I guess what I'll be doing is getting all the shocks changed, and keep my current stock springs and thats that Autobarn quoted me $140 each for the Monroe GT-gas, and $180 each for the KYB Excel-G. I'm leaning more towards the KYBs I think. While I'm messing with the suspension, is there anything else I should get changed or have looked at? bumpstops, top mounts etc etc?
  9. Terry

    CSi CSx

    yeah it's pretty good how some small things have wiring still there, probably cheaper for Toyota to have all the wiring harnesses the same :) if I remember correctly, in the glovebox there should be a circular hole which the light assembly would mount into, there should also be a small hole somewhere along the edge of the glovebox for the switch to trigger the light. If you take the glovebox out completely, the wiring for it should be hidden up in the right-hand side I think, it might be hard to find as they usually tape the loose wires up to the wiring harness to keep things neater (as you may have found out when looking for the wiring for the digital clock). PS: when you do eventually get the light and switch hooked up, the glovebox light doesn't work unless your headlights are on :P
  10. Terry

    CSi CSx

    as you may have guessed I don't have the car anymore but it was a 1994 CSi 4-cyl, I was able to get the digital clock in (wiring already there), got a glove box light (wiring there, only need the switch and the light itself), also put the cup holder in. I also went to the wreckers and got the 4-spoke steering wheel from a Vienta, didn't have airbags so that was a simple swap ;) I also swapped the red boot garnish piece, don't know about the wiring though, but it has two extra parking lights in there. The stuff that I found out that you can not swap easily, is map lights (no mounting point in the roof, also don't know about the wiring). Also the transmission indicator in the middle of the dashboard, the bit in the middle which lights up saying PRND2L (no wiring at all for that, even if you put in different gauges).
  11. Terry

    CSi CSx

    when I had my old Gen3 CSi, I was going around to wreckers and wherever else trying to upgrade parts on it from the CSX and Ultima etc :P This thread reminded me, that back then I had some original Toyota sales brochures for the Gen3 Camry and Vientas, I scanned the spec sheets for both, I hope that helps you out :)
  12. I've recently started to noticed loud rattling and banging noises from my rear suspension when I go over sharp bumps, and the overall car feels more floaty and sloppy. Last time I went to Pedders they said my rear shocks were on their way out, and I'm inclined to agree now. My car has done about 100,000km so I suppose it is about time to change all the shocks anyway. I've decided to take this opportunity to get something which would improve the handling a bit, I've pretty much narrowed it down to two brands, KYB Excel-G or Monroe GT-gas. Which of these would be better to get? I would like them to perform just as well as my original Sportivo suspension, if not better (not too concerned with comfort to be honest :P) I don't want to lower my car much at all, since what I use the car for makes it unpractical, but since I am replacing the shocks should the springs be replaced too? (nothing wrong with the current ones as far as I can tell yet) If so, should I go Toyota Genuine or aftermarket? I've checked King Springs, Lovells and Pedders and none seem to make standard height springs for the Gen5 V6 Camrys weirdly.
  13. cool, I'll give that a go :) yeah I definitely do alot of stopping and starting, since I do home deliveries for a chinese restaurant as a part-time job, so I may stop and start the car up to like 20-30 times a night.
  14. Hey guys, sorry if this is a silly question, I've searched and didn't really find a straight answer. anyway, tonight when I went to start my car, turning the key the engine didn't start. I could hear the starter motor whirring away but wasn't starting the engine, on the third try it finally worked. It seems to me that the starter motor is just spinning on its own, but not engaging the engine at all. The sound was definitely not like starting with flat battery or starting with the engine already on. oh btw, the car is a 2004 Camry V6 (auto with the 1MZFE). This has happened every now and again for me (like once every month or two, for the last 2-3 years), I've just sort of ignored it until now, since it normally starts perfectly. It is starting to be a little bit more frequent now. I do alot of stop start driving, so the starter motor is always being used repeatedly. Anyone have any idea what is the issue? time for a new starter motor or could it potentially be a bigger issue?
  15. I have to agree with everyone else, getting a rear swaybar is the best bang for you buck as far as handling improvement goes. I definitely noticed a difference when I got my one done :D the Whiteline RSB for the Gen4 I believe is the BTR39, same as the Gen5s. I'd definitely recommend going through Autobarn to get it, it is cheaper than going through Whiteline direct (Whiteline say they don't want to compete with their distributors).
  16. from what I can tell, the Gen5s didn't use regular bulbs to illuminate the dashboard, they use small LEDs which are soldered into the board itself. So it wouldn't be a simple changing of the bulbs. This person in the US did a colour change in their Gen5 dashboard: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/216257/6
  17. I'm pretty sure it won't fit the Australian made Camrys, the US ones have a different suspension setup I believe, thus the different swaybar.
  18. for the Gen5 Camrys the rear swaybar is either the BTR39 or BTR39Z (adjustable). The BTR85 is only for the Gen5 Camrys made in the US. the BTR39 are for the Australian made Gen5 Camrys.
  19. as its been said above, getting better brake pads would be a good cheap upgrade and if you have the money better rotors aswell. I put on DBA slotted rotors and Bendix heavy duty pads on all 4 wheels a year or so ago. It was a bit pricey, but I am quite satisfied with the results.
  20. I was just looking at the original accessories Toyota offered for the Gen5 Camry, and I noticed this rear sunguard. I saw one on a Gen4 the other day, looked alright. However, I have never seen one on a Gen5 before. Anyone seen them before or got pictures of it? this is the only image I got of it:
  21. they look good, nice job :) with the Aurion mirrors only the back panel is usually painted, do you reckon the entire mirror assembly could be painted the same colour as well? like on the stock Gen5 mirrors.
  22. Terry

    Rear Swaybar

    i had the exact same problem when I first got my rear swaybar. It is due to the lateral movement of the bar, when you go around corners the bar shifts to the left or right (depending on the corner). If it shifts too much there isn't enough clearance for it to move up and down. So when you go over a bump the bar slams into the chassis above it. here is a picture I made to explain what happens: Whiteline sell lateral locks for this reason, you might notice your stock bar has these round rings that were next to the bushings, those are the lateral locks. for my car, I just got a bit of rubber and pipe clamps and they serve as lateral locks just as good and I have had no problems whatsoever :P
  23. I took a look underneath the muffler today, and I couldn't see anything written on it at all. I know there is a small bit of writing right at the back, which I think is the Toyota Part Number. looking at my receipt from Toyota, the part number is: PZQ1933020
  24. Hey there, not sure why it wasn't letting me accept PM's seems to be working now though. anyway, I only got the rear swaybar done, I didn't really feel getting a bigger front swaybar is necessary for me. having the bigger rear swaybar it reduces understeer I have noticed, that said though, it still understeers alot when you push it hard, lol :P I don't think a wheel alignment is necessary after installing it (correct me if im wrong anyone), in anycase, I didn't have to get one. 3 years on, yes I am still very happy with it, definitely worth the money :D the only 'downside' you could say, is that you need to crawl underneath every 6 months or so, to regrease the swaybar bushings since they dry out and start to squeak.
  25. I'm pretty sure the standard Toyota spark plugs are actually Denso Iridium ones. Since Denso advertise about some U-groove thing their plugs have, and so does Toyota in their service book about their spark plugs. Also on the Denso website, they say that they supply the Iridium Power plugs to Toyota as OE.
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