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taragasaurus

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Everything posted by taragasaurus

  1. thanks mate -will you can buy mine (3a Racing) if you want. brand new, unuesed, bought it a couple of weeks ago from burwood for $35.00. its red filter with black ring. i fitted the TRD one that came with the TRD CAI instead. $20.00 pick up inner west. I have no use for it now. PM me if intersted and i'll give you my PH# and add.
  2. CAUTION: 3A RACAIN POD on Facelift, with TRD CAI or any other pod that has a cone/funnel in the middle with cap the other day i changed my air filter because it was getting dirty (coz the 3a racing are cheap and chearful with proven gains) and foundout a few things that i hadn't realised when i first installed my CAI. 1. the TRD pod is large and dousn't seem to fit the facelift very well (not quite true) 2. The 3a racing, because it is shorter fits very well (so it seems) 3. the 3a racing fits but needs to be pushed fairly high onto the end of the CAI pipe 4. 3a racing pods have an additional Cone/funnel up the middle of it that dips inside the pod, this has a rubber centre cap holding it together 5. when fitting it to a facelift, the pod sits so high that the funnel cap in the middle of the pod actually "PLUGS" the end of the CAI, and if you pull it down lower, then it simply hits the top/back of the foglight. 6. for the reason the 3a racing isn't a good fit for the facelift becasue from what i tried, there is no way to get it low enough to have the end of the pipe inside a clear gap to actually suck up all the air from the filter. 7. TRD pod that is supplied has a very flexible top, remove foggie, slide pod on, re fit foggie, then bend/angle the pod fairly low and push it behind the fog light. then re tighten the pod from the top (moving the battery makes this easy) conclusion: the TRD pod supplied does fit the facelift and with a little pushing around it can sit a lot lower than the 3a racing but be sucking in full air. car goes a lot better now!
  3. quite a while back, when i spoke with tark at livo exhaust about his headers and exhaust set up he said he had LOTS of development done with lots of dyno sheets showing the gains for different set ups, until he found the perfect one. i was in the market for new headers (or modifying stock) and was open to all options. he reccomended a 2 1/4 " exhaust because he said 2.5" was to big and loud. I saw his car, the headers and exhasut fitted, and it looked very neat and i was very keen to see what gains he had. he never got back to me and i still haven't seen any proof of the gains. I went with porting the stock headers at westside mufflers and has happy with the result.
  4. i'll be using them on the track only. i shredded the edges of the fulda on my last day out. i'll mostly be going to wakefield but possibly eastern creek and oran park too. so i guess medium would be the way to go. i'll probably get no more than 4 track days a year. thanks for your input superdave.
  5. If you are after the best performance from the tyre you'll need a 7" wide rim at a minimum. Semi slicks do have stiffer sidewalls, however the tyre is a bit too wide for 6" when you have a lot of grip. The stock rim width is 6", more suited to a 195 profile. still haven't bought the set of rims yet but after abit more thinking, the 7" wide would be the way to go. so i've been looking at the "ROTA SLIPSTREAM" in a 15x7" they weigh in at 5.8kg a rim ive narrowed tyres down to 2 types-either the Kumho V70a or the Toyo r888. so micky do you reckon the 195/50/15 would be better than the 205/50/15? see the 205 will give more contact on the track but have a slightly larger rolling diameter. (195- 7.15% faster roll, 205 - 5.61% faster roll over the stock sportivo rim rolling diameter) http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims/rotapics/slipstream1.jpg i'll plan my next track day and order them. anyone know the best place to get them from?
  6. hey stivo, its a sprint type format, racing against the clock - not car v car so its not that exciting. Basically its a championship thats run over 12 months, one event a month and a minimum participation in 6 of the events over the year to be elligable to be consdered for the placings at the end. great opportunity to get out there and have some fun, improve my driving and thrash the car. ps - got trd brake pads, will flush the brake fluid with somehting high temp before each track day. Ive been pretty happy with the Neo products for my car. i use the brake fluid and have done 2 track days at wakefield and still on the same fluid. i use ferodo DS2500 pads with DBA4000 rotors............the brake fluid i use is Neo Platinum. from my experience you wont need to do a full brake flush after every track day if you are using good fluid.
  7. 205x40x17 probably wont meet the load rating for the rolla which will void insurance if its checked. look at 215x40x17 (maxxis mav-1 does this size, again doesn't meet the load rating which is 86 something from memory) or look at 205x45x17. yokohama do a few, c drives etc. i run fulda excelro 215x40x17 which DO meet the load rating. they are about 180 a tyre. you could also look at the federal 595, they meet the load rating. i know a few ppl on the forum have used those and in 17's you can probably get them for under th 150 mark each.
  8. Westside Mufflers in Padstow; I had mine done a couple of months ago, drive in and drive out. Very happy with the result. and by the sounds of it CME-LFT did the same and is happy as well. I also went to liverpool exhaust before getting anything done and spoke to a guy there who has a sportivo. said that his custom headers were better than porting stockies. they were long 4 into 2 with 2 flexes then into 1. he also said that the stock 2zz engine has smaller than 2 1/4 exhaust, so his ideal set up was a 2 1/4 as he said its bigger than stock and that 2.5" is too big and loud. I still decided to get the stockies ported the same as everyone else. Yeh i got my cai and cat back from livo exhaust only AFTER reasearching this forum and listening to experience opions off fellow members.(i thought he would have more experience since he owns 2 which i dont think he really does) The only problem with liverpool is that i dont trust there opinion too well. He recommended 2.1/4 cat back as 2.5inch was quit louder and that it would lag down low and seeing as most on this forum have good result with 2.5inch i chose that in the end. (no lagging problems, it is a little loud at times but i dont mind, a change of muffler would help that i guess) When i rang up for his custom headers he said again that due to them being a bigger size they would cause lag down low, now i dont know if his setup was mostly made for top end power but designing something like that isnt too good for the normal street car that most owners go in to beef up a little bit. Also he said that with his setup on his (cai, 2.1/4inch cat and headers) he was pulling 122kw atw. which i think might be bull. But thats just me experience, in the end Im happy with the mods that are done so far. I spoke to the guy at westside about porting the head, he said its not really worth it unless your doing cam work/internals, now seeing as my mechanical knowledge it pretty limited i was curious as to what the next approach would be in beefing up my car beside the computer as i would like to do that last once all mods are done and i only need to tune it once. the guy at livo said that he had before and after dynos of his car with the setups and that he would send them to me. what he said about sizes didn't make sense and every 2.5" setup is different. from what ppl on this forum has suggested, CES are one of the, if not ONLY company to have lots of proven success with their 2.5" catback setup. The livo CAI seemed fine, but obviously not as complex as getting the exhaust right. any intake replacement for the 2zz is going to lead to a noticable increase. the guy at livo never got back to me with his proof. i saw his car but never went in it. i'll be changing my stock system for a CES catback this year sooner i hope
  9. did you ever get a quote from NRMA? the reason i changed from AAMI was because i moved one suburb away (where i had the car in outdoor apartment car space) to a lockup garage in what i believe to be a better area anyway and because of statistics and what their computer said, they upped my premium by another 50 a month from 165pm to 215. i do have the car insured for business purpose to, although am over 25 now with no claims and max no claim bonus. i pay 177pm now with NRMA, unlimited mods allowed with no change to premium, which is handy. the only downside is that they will let you lower your car 30mm max (hence why i went whiteline control over king lows)
  10. I used to be with AAMI for insurance (is that who you are with?) i seem to remember intake on a NA car wasn't counted as a performance upgrade and didn't count. as for porting stock headers, hyperthetically if you were to put a claim in, the only way they could tell that the headers have been modified would be to remove them, look inside them with a torch and compare them to stock unmodified headers and KNOW what to look for. highly unlikely. would getting your front discs machined flat be counted as a "performance modification"?............so...........would getting the scrappy inside welds on your exhaust header machined be counted?..............heheh
  11. Im on stock exhaust with a different rear muffler only. I would do the intake before porting the stock header. i feel the intake is the biggest of the 3 restrictors on the car.
  12. Westside Mufflers in Padstow; I had mine done a couple of months ago, drive in and drive out. Very happy with the result. and by the sounds of it CME-LFT did the same and is happy as well. I also went to liverpool exhaust before getting anything done and spoke to a guy there who has a sportivo. said that his custom headers were better than porting stockies. they were long 4 into 2 with 2 flexes then into 1. he also said that the stock 2zz engine has smaller than 2 1/4 exhaust, so his ideal set up was a 2 1/4 as he said its bigger than stock and that 2.5" is too big and loud. I still decided to get the stockies ported the same as everyone else.
  13. I have the same problem after i put the CAI in when the car is cold, if i start it and go straight away its a bit of a struggle just to get it moving. 20 seconds later (or more throttle) and the car is fine. one thing that did make a NOTICABLE differecence was taking out and spraying the MAF with jaycar electrical circuit board cleaner (green can) car is a lot better cold.
  14. im looking to do the same thing too. im not in a rush but will look out for a pair of cheap stock 15" alloys and put TOYO proxes R888 on them for about 250 each. 205x50x15. i used a rolling diameter calculator and this is what i cam up with speedo deviation at 100kmh with a 185/65/15 as "0". 205/55/16 on say stock sportivo wheels + 7.8 KMH 205/50/15 on say stock alloys from accent/levin -5.7KMH so thats a difference of 13.5KMH which as some people have experienced and expressed shorten the ratio and increase acceleration, 2nd, 3rd and 4th would be a lot better with these on the track.
  15. Im heading down on sunday 12th october to wakefield for the speed off the streets. $140 for the day and $50 for a licence which lasts a year. its also on saturday too. from what they told me its the last speed off the streets they are doing on the weekend till the end of the year. hope to see you there.
  16. golds set me back around $1300..........and yeah those are the SF challenge.
  17. i bought a piece of flat alluminium strip abour 4mm thick and 15mm wide, i bent and cut it to make a "L" bracket. i then screwed and secured it to the box and lined it up so that the flat part would line up with the child restraint thread/bolt in just behind the seats on the chassis. (I secured it to the left) i undid the bolt put the L bracket through and did it back up without the little restraint bracket. this with non slip mat makes the sub totally secure, but if you need to access the spare tire or jack you can swivel the whole box around about 250 degrees (once you've folded the seats) and have full access under the floor cover.
  18. Hey SB, I opened one of the previous threads about the C-one struts and after some more reading im pretty interested in the Koni GOLD. has anyone done a DIY for the "cutting & drilling" involved with fitting the front iserts on the gold/yellow to the standard strut housing? Im looking to get a pair asap as my car is still on standard shocks & springs with everything else done now (strut brace, sway bar, CAI, muffler, wheels, tyres) i want to fit the Koni Golds to the whiteline control springs.
  19. I was just reading your other thread, maybe i should look at some Koni FSD's as well if you rate them high. i suppose some cutting and drilling wont be to hard, did you install them yourself or take any photos of the install? if i got the Koni FSD's id be looking at the whiteline control springs again because whiteline told me they are a 30mm instead of the King lows which are 35mm.
  20. sorry for the late reply guys, have been overseas over the weekend. Ive got whiteline rear sway bar, and whiteline front strut brace. i might look at bit more into the tein super wagon if they get good feedback. CANT lower the car any more than 30mm front OR rear (insurance, and no need), so if the tein are height adjust i might even run a 25mm front and 30mm rear drop to level the car a tad bit more. im also about to pick up a set of DBA 4000 slotted rotors and FERODO DS2500 pads to fit. so with the C-one shocks and whiteline springs, the car may "hop" around on bumps in the corner more than the tein super wagon?.........is this due to the spring rate instead of the shock type?
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