DJKOR

Big Pete was one of the most friendliest members I have met from the forum here. He was always willing to spare his time to help others and to spend some time with you. I remember all the times I had travelled to Sydney and he would always extend such kind hospitality to make sure that I would have a good trip. He was such a kind soul and this is something that I will always remember him for.

Rest in peace big fella.

AFAIK there are none around ready to bolt up, custom fabbed is the only way. (I could be wrong now but i havnt even seen anything, even from America)

Really?

Yeah, kinda having trouble finding off the shelf headers myself.

Really??

Kinda disappointing that noone has done this already. The car is nearly 6 years old!!

Really???

Extractors/Headers

MWR 2GR-FE parts

with the headers and a manual transmission everyone that has dyno'd their car gets between 200 and 220 Kw to the wheels or about 235 to 257 Kw at the crank (the E-153 we are using is well documented to have about a 17% power loss through it in 4th gear).

Not trying to invalidate the figures or cast doubt, but just mentioning this so that others don't get misled. Correct me if I'm wrong, but those power figures of 200kW + at the wheels was on a DynoJet or similar dyno right? I'm not going to argue the way it works, but I personally have seen figures from these dynos stated to be higher than what a Dyno Dynamics dyno would show.

For comparative purposes, since the Dyno Dynamics dyno is more common here in Australia, I think the best example of what figures to expect would be to look at Chris' Aurion (00UCH) which has these exact same headers:

00UCH what a Aurion!!!!

They are basically trying to get the bypass to close quicker meaning boost comes (by having the bypass shut quicker) on quicker and/or is not boost cut.

There is no gain to be made here on the TRD Aurion. We do not have any electronic boost solenoid that overrides the supercharger. Our vacuum bypass is purely there to bypass the supercharger at times where there is no increasing load on the engine such as idling or when cruising on the highway.

As for getting the bypass valve to close quicker, get someone to blip the throttle while you have you head in the engine bay watching the valve. You will see just how fast it can move.

The vacuum actuator anyway is different to the one specified in the guide you have posted. There is only one inlet to it and no outlet.

At the end of the day, you will be kidding yourself in any situation if you think you can easily get more power out of the TRD.

Yeah that went for way too much

Says the one who spent $500 or so on a pair of headlights that do jack s*** to performance :P

Stock TRD rotors and pads especially are good at what they are designed to do. The pads however end up being really hard wearing and wear down your rotors much quicker than certain aftermarket pads. I suggest you look here first:

TRD Aurion brake options

I am currently using the Hawk ceramic pads as suggested in the thread there. They have good stopping power and a recent day at the track showed they held up really well with no fade during the heavy braking at the end of the straights. The biggest positive I have to say about them though is that they really are low dust. Compared to the stock pads and even worse... Remsa pads, these produce less than a quarter of the dust.

Rotors... personally all I can say is stay away from RDA. They are rather "soft" in my opinion. They do the job, but I personally believe that you get what you pay for and spending a little more on DBA will get you a higher quality rotor with better life.

In like sin.

i only really post it here since i cant grab it.

Point exactly. So had you have had an opportunity to bid on this, how would you like it to be advertised here to increase the amount of bidders?

I guess the original intention of this sub-forum was to help people find those rare and odd finds on eBay that you typically don't come across. At the end of the day, all eBay auctions are fair game, but you have to think about what it is you're posting and who it is you are really helping.

I'd have to agree with Trent. Really not helping others grab a bargain at the end of the day by posting here. This sub-forum really was a bad idea.

Blue is so generic though. Nothing wrong with being a little different. At least it is underlined. That is standard practise too.

wheels???

Nah... looks like a supercharger to me.

Do you pay the same amount for your ones?

Mine was a one off payment of $2195. Considering I have now had them for nearly 5 years, they pretty much pay themselves off in comparison to an annual fee of $440.

Wait to me or chris? Because I said it as a joke LOL

Either way, the combination you provided (taken anyway) and the ones Chris provided have the same annual fee.

Edit: I looked up the wrong combo. Has an "S" instead of a "5". Scrap that thought I had.

$440 a year to have those plates. Wow. That's crazy. If you are going to pay such a price per year for plates, why not get something more meaningful to yourself and not the car?

Pffft. Who needs the air filter?

Yeah. If these guys can go without, then why not.

I take no responsibility if you actually think I'm serious.

Massive restriction eh. Can you back that up with proof?

Just to add, I will not be bringing the Aurion...

Get some extra kW too with the drizzle on the road.

I remember when I picked up my TRD. It had paint and leather protection applied from new.

Wouldn't gave even thought it had it if i didn't see the paperwork. Looked a hundred times better after waxing it myself and applying store bought leather care products.

Do i need to get special lowered shock absorbers to fit lowered springs ?

You don't have to, but to get optimum performance from your shock absorbers, it is best to get shock absorbers that are suitable for lowering springs such as KYB. Can just use stock in the meantime though and replace them when they wear out.

Seems like some poor design there.

The 2012 models do I believe. Don't think the facelift ones ever did, hence why I mentioned the ski hatch.

If you have the ski hatch in the rear, then no.

A: paint it matte black

B: paint it gloss black

C: carbon fibre wrap it

D: Colour code them

That's what I would have said.

Might be a while.

+1

you wont be finding much TRD parts out there for the aurion that quick.

Well I'll be damned.