DHOUS

Thanks more details would be handy, mine is intermittent so not urgent at this time, I have checked around the windscreen and the plastic cowling below the screen but unable to find anything obvious. Cheers

I am recently experiencing the same RHS dash/windscreen rattle early on travelling but seems to go away, also very annoying be glad to hear if someone comes up with a solution. The panel near the foot parking brake is not the issue this time I resolved that one early in the history of my vehicle

Guys a lot of comments from you on engine oil but my original post was more related to transmission oil and the change in behaviour of the shift criteria, and this was my theory on the change in fuel consumption. good to hear some of you backing up my fuel consumption figures, all in the way you drive no leadfoot acceleration!!! On the other point of service costs after the capping runs out, they do get expensive, you need to talk with your service Manager and get only done what is necessary, if you look at your service book you will see there is a lot of fluff, I got what I thought a reasonable deal from my dealer doing just this, given that my wheels have only done 40,000km over 5 years this was a bit easier to negotiate, but I will always do this from now on. the last service cost me around $500 some earlier blogs suggested charges up around the $1000. Cheers Dhous

the reason for that service was the vehicle is 2008 5yrs old but only just clicked over 40K. there is definitely a change in the transmission holding lower gears longer. Cheers Dhous

guys I have recently had combined 40k -60k service and fuel consumption has changed, highway improved and got down to 8.2 on my usual run from Geelong to Latrobe Valley, but around town has increased currently around 10.2 yes I do try to drive smoothly no lead foot. My take on the changes is the transmission oil not engine oil, this service had changes in transmission and transfer box, I have detected that the lower gears are holding much longer before changing up than previously before the service. just my theory FYI Cheers Dhous

The Prado is a different class of car with great offroad ability, but definately does not have more room than the Kluger and is not better to drive, a number of us over here in the Pilbara WA own Klugers, and drive Prados most days, our choice unanimously for urban travel is the Kluger. Cheers Dhous

Let me say I am very happy with the Kluger but if I had to go over to Diesel the new Sante Fe would be on the list, if not staying with a Kluger would never be a bad decision. Cheers Dhous

Holmsie I have just completed my lease as well but my Kluger has only done 35K, working away from home. I would like to suggest that your criteria would put you in Hyundai Sante fe territory, take a test run and let us know what you think. Cheers dhous

Has anyone tried to install the new low profile nudge bar to the previous model, the dealer tells me it cant be done but I cannot see why not?? Dhous

Greg I have a similar setup and got around 17ltr/100km hot windy conditions over 250km, my question is how did you manage the transmission, Auto ? and if so were you able to hold it smoothly enough to prevent the O/drive from dropping back, did you at any time manually select out of O/drive and maintain this, I found if you can maintain a smooth cruising style up to 100km/h its possible to keep it in O/D even though Toyota dont recommend it. It would be nice if Toyota could come up with an adjustmet for towing purposes. Regards Don

Ricey did you finally find a Toyota dealer that still loves you? your previous blogs led me to believe you had clashed with the dealer and would not buy another toyota again. In all fairness if any dealer had read what you had done with that Kluger, they would not want to touch you with a fifty foot barge pole I look forward to the offroad test performance in the FJ Cruiser from you. Cheers Dhous

Mayhewga just read your blog, I dont log in that much these days, R16TS was also the best car I ever had, good luck with the Kluger Cheers DHOUS

Guys check this site for fog lights as it is one of the most comprehensive and detailed subject, even at the top of the forum you will see Scotts steering wheel blog, click on it and follow the history and all will be revealed good luck. Cheers Dhous

G'day and welcome... I think you're referring to the fog lamps and how they're missing in the KX-R model? I've seen after-market kits available on ebay... I'm guessing these would need to be wired up separately and therefore need a special button fitted somewhere to your dash. On the KX-S, Grande and even Altitude I think... there is a dial on the headlight stalk to activate the fog lamps but I'm thinking this is missing from the KX-R? So to get the genuine fog lamps you may also need to invest in a different stalk for the steering wheel. Someone else may have actually done this and can be a little more precise with the experience.

You mean like this? Thanks I prefer the US one for looks, but that looks close enough I dont like the Toyota one at all. Cheers DHOUS

It might be cheaper to get it from US: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/items/Parts-Ac...1a&_fcsfc=0 That Nudge bar with the slotted underplate is exactly what I am looking for does anyone know, what it would cost delivered here or if anyone is selling them locally. DHOUS

Is the problem related to the 19inch tyres? my KXR 17inch now over 10,000klms looks good.

I agree with Ricey mine kicks down and goes like a rocket and shifts seem to be purfect. (2008 build?)

The badge looked like the real thing to me, did not notice any bonnet change, but it did fly pass me and pulled off into Werribee so I only got a look at the rear. DHOUS

Grande TRD sited on the Geelong rd Laverton friday night, what is in this package? nothing is listed on the TRD website, and we do have a Member using ID of Grande TRD,

Early roadtests and more recently in the Melbourne Age, the motoring writers have not embraced the Kluger as well as we might expect. most common is the criticism of the ride and handling, quote, the kluger should win hands down until it starts to move. lacks low down torque poor ride quality poor handling, body roll like windscreen wipers?? This was a comparison with the Territory, Holden sports Wagon and the Kluger. They took them down the great ocean road which is hilly and windy. I think the ride is the best I have experienced, and as I have always been a small and medium car owner I found the Kluger a little bit of a handfull until I got used to it, I believe it handles well for its size and high centre of gravity, I am not real keen on the steering and agree with the writers on this issue. I would be keen to hear some comments from Members, and if there is a problem how do we solve it, RICEY and TAKA should be able to give a good contribution and look forward to it. Regards Don

OZKluger Sorry to hear of such a bad experience, if I were you I would go straight to Toyota and request a full inspection at the dealers cost and a written report that all is back together perfectly, and even ask for an extension of Warranty. I dont like upsetting dealers but what has happened to your car is lack of Quality Control and bridging on incompetent and should be reported. Regards DHOUS

If anyone has carried out their own wiring or has any information on the following questions some feedback would be appreciated. 1. Patching the blue wire into pin 5 of the 7 pin plug, the Kluger has a pre wired harness under the rear deck compartments, when the tow pack is installed the plug and associated wiring is routed up into this area and plugged into the harness and also an installation of a trailer ECU module. I would assume this is where you would patch in the service brake wire from the prodigy controller? But you would need to be sure there is no chance of feedback to this ECU? 2. Does anyone have a wiring diagram and details of the prewired harness and trailer ECU? 3. It may then be possible to wire in back at the origin of this pre wired harness? 4. The US forum Toyotanation has a good rundown on prodigy install but the writer does not touch on this subject and appears that he may not have had this pre wired harness in his Highlander and therefore wired directly to the plug. He also suggested that the brake switch was difficult to access(I agree) and he patched into a grey wire on the converter? Box under the dash in his case LHS, the Kluger does have a similair box under the RHS “Converter”? I am a bit uncertain of this ? The wiring of the Prodigy is a very simple exercise on paper but on the Kluger is made very difficult by lack of access and options to patch in wires. I have successfully routed the wires through the bonnet release cable grommet and into the wheel arch (also a bit tricky and tight going). If anyone has any feedback on the above it would be appreciated. Cheers Don

Turn your steering wheel till you see 2 screws holding the cover. Remove the screws and pop up the cover. You don't need to remove plastic liners under the front fenders. Fog lights location accessible from the top of the vehicle. Remove the battery and unscrew window washer bottle neck to gain access to the fog light area. Also your car should be already prewired for fogs. All you need is an extra button and splice it in the wires 3&4 on D13 connector. I did it couple days ago and used 3dr Yaris lights from eBay. Thanks 777 I am aware of all the other stuff, I installed the lights months ago, just havent patched in the Aux switch yet, I looked at the two screws but thought there had to be more to it than that, thats why I asked the question thanks for the response. Don