ZAV

Get a flat head screw driver and tape it up with electrical tape (reduces sctratches). Place it under the floppy plastic panel you use to grab and close the door. Same deal power windows panel, also place the screw driver towards the top. Unclip power windows plug. You will see two screws, so unscrw them. Next to the door handle there is a plastic cover. take it off with a finger nail or small taped up screw driver. you will see a screw being it, so unscrew it. Jam a taped up screw driver behind the bottom of the door trim to unclip all the clips I can do all of the above with my fingers (except screws), but ive done it a few times. Take door trim off (put it flat on carpet away from cats). Factory speaker is like a 5 inch and is molded into the pod, so it is useless. Drill out the pop rivot on the pod and remove. Get a pice of MDF, SAY 12mm. Cut it the same outside shape as the door pods. Cut the inner shape to suit your speakers. Use the factory holes in the door, and find bolts to suit. Cut the factory plugs off. Solder the speaker wire and cover with heat shrink wrap. Hook up speaker wire to speakers Screw speakers onto MDF. Return door trim. All done.

very few people would pay 40k for a corolla. Id rather buy a Rex or type s.

Sorry guys Ive decided to the whole whiteline package, so count me out TRD front strut bar $260 plus shipping $36 4-8 weeks $60 1 week 1 - kelvin33 2 - SuperDave 3 - KT_Haha 4 - m_luke 5 - 44gze 6 - Otaku 7 - fad 8 - XploShun 9 - eddy_torrezz 10 - ivanchun 11 - 12 - TRD rear strut bar 1 - SuperDave 2 - eddy_torrezz 3 - 4 - TRD rear sway bar $160 plus shipping $36 4-8 weeks $60 1 week 1 - eddy_torrezz 2 - Specialized32 3 - XploShun 4 - Vitagen 5 - kelvin33 6 - Blue_stivo 7 - Otaku 8 - Omn1potent 9 - Gumball 10 - m_luke 11 - 44gze 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 -

I'm definentely interested in the rear sway bar at that price, prob count me out on the front strut. Can these prices be confirmed? TRD front strut bar $260 plus shipping $36 4-8 weeks $60 1 week 1 - Tivo Matt 2 - kelvin33 3 - BlAcK JeT 4 - SuperDave 5 - GAZOOM 6 - KT_Haha 7 - m_luke 8 - iNdCeNt 9 - Otaku 10 - fad (wants to know the $$$) 11 - 12 - TRD rear struct bar 1 - BlAcK JeT 2 - TRD front sway bar (With valid and trustworthy comments from Danz... Whiteline is the brand to go) 1 - BlAcK JeT ( are you still interested if it is whiteline??) 2 - 3 - TRD rear sway bar $160 plus shipping $36 4-8 weeks $60 1 week 1 - iNdCeNt (TRD or Whiteline) 2 - Specialized32 3 - ZAV 4 - ROX45S (TRD or Whiteline) 5 - Vitagen 6 - kelvin33 7 - BlAcK JeT 8 - SuperDave 9 - Blue_stivo 10 - Otaku 11 - Omn1potent 12 - Gumball 13 - m_luke 14 - Tivo Matt 15 -

I had my clutch adjusted by Nunawading Toyota at my 10K service. It actually lowered my pedal, and made gear changes smoother.

Why not i'll get a front strut bar too, with this many people it should be a bargin 1 - iNdCeNt - + front strut... would prefer TRD if we get a good price . 2 - Specialized32 3 - ZAV (TRD Rear Sway bar + TRD Front Strut Bar) 4 - ROX45S (Rear Sway Bar - TRD or Whiteline) 5 - Vitagen 6 - kelvin33 (TRD front struct bar only) 7 - BlAcK JeT- (TRD) rear sway bar + (TRD) front strut bar 8 - SuperDave (TRD) + TRD front strut If it also goes ahead. 9 - Blue_stivo (TRD) 10 - Otaku (TRD) 11 - Omn1potent (TRD) 12 - Gumball (TRD) 13 - m_luke 14 - GAZOOM (TRD) Front Strut only 15 - KT_Haha (TRD front strut bar only)

Look in 1ZE-FE's GARAGE, he has a pic of it installed.

I think we are gonna get a price on both, but it looks like some are against getting whiteline, so most likely TRD. Gazoom, I'm pretty sure this is for the rear sway bar.

1 - iNdCeNt - :D 2 - Specialized32 3 - ZAV 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Yep im in with either sway bar.

I can go either. Although swinging more towards whitline if it could be bought at the lower price.

Me too crnched it few times at lift changes. Ive actually crunched quite a few times into reverse. No probs with box, its better than ever.

Honda design there engines to only use thier oils. My old Honda Legend was known for developing a lifter knock if it wasnt services every 5K with Honda Oil. Although Honda replaced theses the lifters under warranty. I believe Toyota is different. My dealer always asks me if I am supplying my own oil at each service. I still prefer to use what they recomend anyway, and you cant go wrong.

My drivers door got jammed inbetween the hoist wen they lowered my car.. n the doors bent on the corner now.. :( Are they gonna fix ur car or are they stiffing you with a bend door

I think the creaks and groans are from nuts that wernt tightened correctly (possibly under or overtorqued), but i think that can happen with any sway bar.

Not much work happens before christmas. We can prob get a group buy for the TRD CAI, I know I'm in.

Only voids the warranty if they can prove the part installed, directly caused damage to the vehicle.

Plastic welding the centre grill out may give you the same look, but not sure if it supports the top of the grill (where the toyota emblem is). The top may just end up sagging. Can anybody confirm this?

Id say 3 & 18's. 1 & 2 are heavy wheels, With 18's you can keep the same rolling diameter as stock with 225/35 tyres. If you go with 19's you will increase your rolling diameter, lose performance and put your speedo out.

I may be wrong but isn't sportivo stock pipe 2 inch anyway. It also looks like its stainless steel, but I could be wrong again

Did u get the coil overs 2nd hand or new

I know, thats why we flat shifted the demo car, didnt seem to damage it though. DEMO = THRASH CAR I think in motor magazine they have stivo 16 sec 1/4's. Obviously they didnt know how to get max power out of a stivo. Took me about 5 months to figure out that the car can lift between gears, and that the car needs to be reved at launch to keep it near peak torque.

yer u dont buy a NA jap engine nto to rev it .. go back and watch initial D mate haha ?????????????????????????????????????? 2ZZ-GE engines are designed to run safely to 8200RPM (REDLINE). So, if you dont rev an NA jap engine, whats the point?

If im dragging the stivo doesnt see below 4000RPM from launch, then basically between 6000RPM and 8000RPM after 1st, so there as far as i am concerned there is no low end problem.

If you flat shift, you will hit lift lift between all changes. My mate bought a runout stivo on the weekend and the dealer reckons that flat shifting wont harm the stivo, I think otherwise though it worth a try if you want to a drag.

i have 225 wide rubber, no rubbing