lateralus

if there's no leaks, after driving the car for a bit, park it and leave the engine running. take the oil filler cap off and check for any smoke coming out. if you've got white smoke, then the car is burning coolant in the combustion chamber.

if there's nothing, i would just think that the excess coolant is overflowing out of the coolant reservoir when the engine gets hot. check it out on a hot day after driving it, and the level may be up around the max mark and slowly drop as the engine cools again.

i mainly use v-power because of the discount vouchers :P

but i tried ultimate for a while at one stage, and didnt notice any difference in fuel economy one bit.

but like everyone has said, i've got a different engine to all of you again, and every engine (even if it is the same type) will react differently to different fuels.

Foglights.

No, foglights in perfect visibility don't make you look hawwt, mr. knobjockey. They mother******ing blind people and you shouldn't have them on anyway.

i tend to disagree with that. although i dont think the bogans in their commodores with misaligned repco style diy foggies are cool, i dont see what all the fuss is about. i've been in cars both high off the ground and low on the ground, and foggies dont bother me in either day or night - not one bit. i honestly dont see what all the fuss is about?

if anything, people with aftermarket hid's are worse. now theyre blinding!

$30 is a pretty moderate price for 5 litres of oil.

as Rolla Boy mentioned, depending upon the brand and quality prices do differ. for example, some mobil 1 oils go for around $130 for 5 litres

with that side view of the hks version of the genesis coupe, i sense hints of lexus is-f around the wheel arches and front quarters.

oh, imagine the fuss if the bogans hear that ford may make the "falcon" fwd.

93 4cyl auto wont run normally untill it warms up any info will be helpful

Hi not sure about 93 model but if you mean auto won't go into top gear etc until its warm then this is normal if the same as later models. Hope this helps.

yes done that for a while not getting top gear but now it stalls when cold at roundabouts and such it realy pi**** off the missus feels like its not getting fuel but when in park or neutral revs fine confussing

sounds like the auto fluid level is low.

as you may or may not be aware, auto transmission fluid expands when it gets warm (hence why the dipstick has hot and cold markings). you said the car stalls only when its cold and in gear (hence why it runs fine in park), which is consistent with low fluid level. if it doesnt stall when its warm, then bingo.

there is an amplifer, behind the glovebox. it is possible with the recent heat that the unit is becoming overheated. however, this seems unlikely due to its location, and being concealed from direct heat.

it is also possible the headunit itself is becoming overheated which would make more sense given the face of it is in direct sunlight, and thus its heat. it will still have a power supply if overheated, however wouldnt send anything to the speakers.

id recommend you check to see if theres power from the headunit to the amplifier, at least that way you can narrow it down to a specific component.

i think this thread should be closed.

congrats on getting the licence, but the threads now turning into a competition of whos got the best offence and biggest speeding fine.

face it, it wouldnt exactly give us the best reputation if someone from the general public was to find this thread. or even the police, to tag along on a cruise (its happened before)

I reckon if you took old tires and cut them up the right way , they could make some pretty awesome thongs for your feet.

Back in the good old days , they used to make shoes out of old tyres. How's that for recycling.

cant say i'll ever need Z speed rated thongs with superior handing in the wet.

Fitting aftermarket 6x9's in the Gen 6 Camry though requires a little bit of work especially at the front because the cutout for the speaker is larger than the standard 6x9 speaker mounts.

true that, i found out the hard way, haha.

i went down to bunnings, bought a small trip of aluminium and cut out four 2" arms for each speaker to extend from the mounting holes on the speaker bracket. works a treat, as i couldnt be stuffed cutting out a mould from plywood.

for future referance, aftermarket 6x9's fit perfectly in the rear parcel shelf in the gen 5.

mmm excel...ill take two

the search button does wonders.

i'm pretty sure 99.99% of people on this forum do it themselves. why pay an extra $40 labour on top of parts for a mechanic to do it?

and you must have gone to a really dodgy mechanic for them to use old oil. anybody can pick up on that.

i'd recommend a century battery. about 3 months ago, i replaced the original battery that had been in my car since 2005. almost 5 years out of a battery isnt bad!

sometimes it actually may not be the balancing weights causing the vibration. the balancing weights are only put onto mass produced rims that arent properly weighted out of the factory.

if the wheel is within a certain tolerance level on the balancing machine (rare), the wheelshop may not put a weight on.

so, in this case it could be the missing wheel weight causing the vibration, and the balancing was done by an idiot.

the other possibilities is the runout of the tyre, either radial or lateral, or inconsistencies in the sidewall stiffness. bridgestone's are good quality tyres, but theres always the possibility they were out of a dud batch.

the runout means that the tyre hasnt been manufactured symmetrically, and the rubber itself not properly weighted/balanced, thus causing the vibration.

so once the wheel has been properly balanced by someone with half a clue, and the alignment is correct, the tyre itself is all thats left.

although the trd's are a great car, i agree with everyone else. straight line run's have to be the worst performance indicators of a cars abilities. im pretty damn sure the r8 would eat the trd for breakfast.

as daryl said, the torque of the v8 combined with the gearing ratios would leave the trd miles behind on a track, especially through the corners.

Hrmm...

Took it into Southside Toyota yesterday and for the first time I was unimpressed with their service.

Apparently they can't hook the ECU up to their diagnosing machine thing because of the engine mods (ie - The headers). Apparently, 'some' of my O2 sensors are put on incorrectly (1 before and 1 after the Catalytic Converter). However, from the description Supatouring has told me, it appears that the ONLY 2 O2 sensors are placed correctly.

But, according to the Service Advisor this will 'screw up' their machine.

Sounds like they had no idea what to do and they just fobbed me off, the dude even suggested some performance shop.

No engine fix + no brake install = Andrew being annoyed @ Southside Toyota

in all fairness, i would tend to agree with the service advisor. their diagnostic machine is only designed to measure and test strictly oem settings, within certain tolerance levels. anyone with half a brain (figure of speech, dont get offended!) would realise that the mods youve done (however minor they may be) would tend to skew the results and make the readings of the machine inaccurate. if the changes to the cars settings were to be based on inaccurate readings, your car wouldnt run much better

at least on the bright side youve saved a bit of money

Looking back on my old Camry's Toyota insurance, the policy was through Swann insurance even though it had Toyota on the top of it and i beleive Swann are a local insurer...so it could well be the case that each state uses different insurers.

haha..i work for swann

a lot of brand named insurance or finance products are funded or underwritten by larger companies. it's much more cost effective to the brandname that way

with regards to where to find toyota insurance, etc. it usually comes down to an intercompany agent/broker type agreement where commission is usually the influencing factor. dealers like their commission.

paddock basher....:P

or u could buy a ps3 and gt5 prologue and the car will fill like its real :P

word. the only let down on gt5 is that its taking so friggin long to be released!

i know what you mean, though. i'm much more impressed with the physics on gt5 than forza 3

sounds sensor related by the sounds of it. i'd personally take it in for a service now rather than waiting another 500kms. if its sensor related, a diagnostics test will tell.

sun wont damage the paint if you reguarly polish and wax it

interior fabric fades with excessive light, so as paradigm mentioned using a sunshade on the front windscreen is always good

interior surfaces only crack with excessive heat and no TLC. reguarly cleaning and conditioning the surfaces with a good product is going to keep the surfaces moist and oiled, and will prevent cracking

personally, i'd be more concerned about leather wrap steering wheels than the paint.

occasionally, there is a "rs style racing grill" floating around ebay, but has chrome surrounds, which tbh, looks stupid

the accessory racing grille you see in the picture is a genuine toyota one. the only place you will find one is a wreckers if the car had one. otherwise, its virtually impossible. trust me, i've tried :P

i would recommend completely stripping the mudguards back, and using a primer and then the top glossy coat

take your time, do it properly and it should last ages. it pays when youre patient!

Sorry to bump this thread back up, but im wondering at how many km's should i change my 05 Camry Altise (ACV30R) at?

Currently the car is sitting on 60000kms atm so im assuming its due for a change soon...

Thanks for any help guys.

based on that odo reading, from memory i think the next change is at 90000kms (major service).

however, having said that it doesnt hurt to change it sooner. i change mine every 6 months regardless.