lateralus

Are you sure 0w40 is good to use? Our climates different to jp/

thats what castrol recommends in the edge range for the 2zz. otherwise they recommend magnatec.

funny thing is, no one likes them so much a lot of insurance companies wont cover them :P

btw does insurance cover that 'kind' of fire??? " lol highly unlikely but ya never know

generally, as long as its not due to mechanical or electrical failure.... :P

which is to say, yes but its hard to get it covered unless you know insurance inside out. (otherwise, read your policy wording!!)

stupid question, are you planning on track racing? if yeah, dont worry about me!

if not, then whats the point apart from ricing it up a bit? if you maintain your car properly and use it for everyday stuff, then chances of a fire are virtually non-existant.

first of all, it's 5w30. and it would be fine in the 2zz. while theres nothing wrong with the magnatec, i think the edge 5w30 is much better suited to a high revving 4 banger - 2zz in a nutshell.

there's also edge 0w40, which is about $30-$35 more than all the other edge oils and harder to find. but thats the one thats actually recommended for your engine.

you can use touch up paint as a temporary fix. if the stones have penetrated the clear coat and chipped the paint itself, after a year or so you may get a light haze surrounding the chips as moisture and other contaminants build up due to weather. the best fix for it is a respray, but that can obviously be costly.

originally had an 03 I4 camry sportivo, then traded it for the v6 upgrade sportivo. i swapped the rims because i liked the 5 spoke ones over the 6 spoke upgrade wheels.

gotta love those roads with all the tall trees with the regrowth...beautiful!

very nice mate looks like not one dent in this thing

wat happened to ur rims?

also did u have any trouble with ur 18's with ur speedo out im assuming ur wheels came from a toyota did u have change ur tyre width i just got 17s aurion rims and my speedo is out

i got rid of them due to insurance, and didnt want to have em sitting around for ages so i got rid of them. but im not fussed, the car can look just as classy stock if kept immactulately clean :P

no problems with speedo at all. they were genuine toyota rims, and the dealer recommended i go 235/40-18 on them. i tested it on the hume highway (where theres a laser speed calibration display thingy), and it was spot on.

so mine are out by 4mm

so if i just put my old tyres on ill be within the limit and i can actually appeal the fine if one is even gonna be made

or you can just admit you were wrong and didnt comply with legal specs. its an option...

well, boredom mixed with $600 worth of autoglym products resulted in this :P

mods on it now are:

whiteline rear sway bar

ultraracing front strut brace

painted calipers

bendix ultimate pads

dba slotted rotors

ported heads

k&n panel filter

tyre wear and pressures weekly with digital guage

check all fluids fortnightly

suspension related attachments/bolts and brake pads every oil change (2 months)

run air con for 1 day each week (around about 15km)

pretty basic stuff, but also get it serviced religiously so nothing much really goes wrong

i believe code 55 is to do with the knock sensors. otherwise, you could be misinterpreting the readings and its actually your oxygen sensor.

talk to cjaza74, he's got similar aftermarket headlights on his camry

$20 says its a spambot

Here is, what I think is a fair question.

In all the guides i am reading it says "mask up what you don't want to get paint on, then paint..."

WTF am I not supposed paint on when painting a pair of calipers?

you can paint on whatever you like really. personally, i think painting over everything (and not removing the calipers) looks stupid. if you take everything apart and pay attention to detail, it will look more like VIP stock (ie. have clean, unpainted shims and pads, etc. looks awesome), rather than mindless painting.

another thing is if you paint over everything, including the bleeding valve, it may be harder to undo it. and when you do undo the valave, because then the finish is uneven it increases the risk of the paint flaking and you will to do everything all over again.

but 1 thing you shouldnt paint (which is hard to do if the caliper is still on the car) is the rubber seal around the piston. the paint can damage that which may result in leaking brake fluid.

got any pictures of the headlights turned on? im curious to see how the hid projectors look on a gen 5 camry

You might just wanna adjust the camber bolts on the car to make sure that you're not going to wear the tyres out too much. Sounds like the coilovers came from a RWD car or something? Did you get a 4 wheel alignment after you placed them on?

as far as i know, only the toe in and out is adjustable on the rear. to correct the problem, maybe a set of camber bolts from whiteline?

i think what youre referring to is the camber. our cars have independant rear suspension. seeing as youve put coilovers in, and its much lower than standard, the camber is now more negative (tilting in towards the car). if its excessive, it can cause more tyre noise and abnormal tyre wear.

and yes, considering what youve just done to the car, increased negative camber is normal.

What type of paint do you guys use? Is there a proper paint that you have to use for this or just paint from a spray can...?

there's a special caliper paint you can use, which you can purchase from autobarn for around $15-$20. its rated up to about 300 degrees celsius from memory, is chemically resistant once cured and has a nice gloss. if you want a really glossy finish, you can use the engine enamel paint.

for what its worth, when i did mine, i did this:

-jack car up, put all 4 corners on jack stands and remove wheels

-clamp brake lines

-remove calipers and separate everything

-depress pistons all the way into the caliper housing, and got every last drop of brake fluid out

-scrubbed the calipers senseless with acidic wheel cleaner and a wire brush

-rinsed them under hot hot water, then leave to dry

-wipe wax and grease remover all over them, left for 10 mins then wiped away

-masked up piston seals and bleeding valves

-hung all the brake components up with coat hangers

-2 coats of etch primer, left to cure for 24 hours

-3 coats of caliper paint, 1 hour curing between each coat, then left to dry for 24 hours

-cleaned pads, shims and regreased caliper slides

-reassembled calipers, flushed all the fluid and bled the system

-chuck wheels back on, then through normal driving they fully cure within 7 days

all the above took me 3 days in total (long weekend), and all done for $50 and because i took the long way, im sure it will last for ages :D

Yep, let the brake fluid drain into a container when you disconnect the lines.

Once the calipers are reinstalled you'll have to bleed your brakes.

no no no no. and no.

if youre going to remove the calipers, use brake-line clamps to stop the fluid from leaking. if you just let it leak into a container, you run the risk of running the master cylinder and abs actuator dry which is not good.

brake line (or fuel line) clamps are around $12 each, so $50 for 4 clamps is much much cheaper than getting the abs actuator bled properly

that way, you only have to flush the fluid and fill the caliper piston chamber back up, then bleed as normal.

is that 10" in diameter or length?

thats what she said

Bought Castrol Edge 10w - 60w from Supercheap Auto. Got genuine Toyota oil filter, flushed engine and filled with oil. Will report back in a few days.

10w-60 may be a bit thick for your car, mate. you may not have any problems with it, but with vvti i would have suggested a thinner oil.

daryl is 100% correct. some manufacturers, such as lexus, do have a feature that lightly applies the brakes automatically once your speed exceeds the cruise control setting, the same way the throttle is applied when your speed decreases from the desired setting. unfortunately, toyota's dont have that (well, not yet anyway)

but daryl, its interesting you say our car cuts the throttle going down hill. in slight hills, mine is still applied very slightly and i have to cancel the setting to let it coast down then reset it once the roads flat again. but on steep hills, obviously it cuts out once it realises what its doing