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lateralus

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Posts posted by lateralus

  1. a couple of the rims look badly scratched up... would you guys recommend to repair them? and how much would i be looking at to repair em?

    you can repair them. a very reputable replace is Neway Wheel repairs in Heidelberg, and their work is top notch.

  2. technically, your rear wheels must have passed over the solid white line after the lights have turned red. so therefore, entering the intersection.

    however red light "safety" cameras have weight sensors up to 1 metre after the solid white line. as soon as weight is detected in that area when the lights are red: flash - your gone.

    road traffic cops see it differently. depends on a: how **** a day theyve had, and b: if it was an unsafe move (eg. plenty of room to stop in time)

  3. ive worked for 3 insurers so far and all 3 have let customers keep the salvage of the car if they wanted to. but you have to pay for the salvage tender out of your total loss settlement, which is usually approx 20% of the vehicles market value.

    paperwork isn't an issue with insurers, but moreso training because a lot of general claims consultants have no idea how to go about it. but anyway!

    with regards to keeping mods, a lot of insurers are iffy about this because they agreed or market value they pay you includes all accessories/modifications fitted to the car. if you wanted to keep a few, they can either make you pay the value of them back to the insurer (Again, by taking this out of your total loss settlement), or make you replace it with an OEM unit.

  4. with regards to the hoses, i think i mentioned in my previous post you can completely remove the VSV actuator as its no longer needed. i used the longest rubber hose and put heat shielding on it, then put it onto the metal fingers on the cai to block it off. no issues with that.

    and as for having electrical charge on the car while installing, i think its better if you remove the battery and let the power drain, as the ecu reset will benefit you for the relearning with the increase in air flow going past the MAF sensor.

    the bitch with the facelifts and the ces cai is that if your near side headlight bulb goes out, you have to completely remove it <_<

  5. if you go for a market value policy, the assessor is the one that decides the vehicles true value and what is paid under the claim, so therfore low kms would work in your favour either way. however, assessors caluculate this on what an average person would pay for it, and doesn't take into account that the car is worth more in certain circles.

    if you go for agreed value, you can choose the sum insured within reason (they have upper and lower values they allow), and is usually regardless of condition/kms (except where there is pre-existing or unrepaired damage). if the insurer agrees to the sum insured value on the policy, they are legally bound to pay it if you claim is accepted.

    as for the usage of the car and distance travelled, that will not affect the sum insured, but rather your premium as it affects the risk of insuring you (ie. probability of you having to claim).

    but dont tell the insurer you drive 250kms a week to get a lower premium, when in reality you might travel 600kms a week, because they will record your odometer reading. they will only found out once you make a claim, but they will most likely make you pay all the extra premium you owe them in leiu of the extra kms travelled.

    hope this helps!

  6. full comp is good, but make sure youre aware of your duty of disclosure.

    having a few mods on the car, combined with your age, would be outside the underwriting guidelines for a lot of insurers. make sure you tell them everything.

    working in motor insurance, i can honestly tell you that you would not be pleased to find out your written off car claim has been denied based on non-disclosure of car modifications :blink:

  7. just wondering how the abs works in other peoples sportivos?

    reason being, 3 days ago on the way home from work, i was driving on a country hwy at just under 100km/h and a bloody big roo jumped out in front of me. naturally, i hit the brakes and reached the abs threshold, and stayed on it until the car came to a stop (heard all the normal abs sounds, pulsating pedal, steering did not pull to one side, etc). i smelt a lot of burning rubber which seemed odd, so i checked the car when i got home and the rear left wheel had completely locked up during the braking, causing a massive flat spot on the rear left tyre (down to virtually no tread in one spot, tyres near new)

    is this normal behavour for the corolla abs actuator? i had to do a couple of big brakes in the camry sportivo when i had that, and that thing pulled up heaps better than the corolla without the tyres locking up one bit.

    all the other tyres are fine so no evidence of those wheels locking up, and the abs light did not/has not come on, nor the check engine light. car still starts up normally and the abs light goes after after approx 3 seconds.

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