DreadAngel

CE28N Time Attack Good luck finding any, Limited Edition...

As long as he follow's the forum's rules and doesn't think Wiseman Ferry = ID Touge Battle and hanging the ***** end out on the other side of the road is how normal people drive? Though I think TOCAU guys prefer only members if I remember correctly?

1) BG Pete (Iron Chef) 2) Riverandlakes 3) juvenile 4) ZR6XY + the twins 5) Seby123 6) Dazzle [Depending on date] I might turn up depending whats happening, I'm not too far from Wisemans lol

One thing about the comparisons, don't try to buy too much into the experiences of people firstly. I'm not saying that they're not giving you accurate information etc, for all I know they can be spot on, but unless you know their preferences and personal tolerances, it won't help you much at all. Something that is comfy or 'firm' could translate for you being stiff, crashy, painful, untolerable etc. Also careful when you're looking at the Honda boys n gals reviews, the setup between different suspension layouts has a markedly different impact when you start playing around aftermarket parts. Toyota majority are Macphersion or Simple strut from memory (Unless you have Superslut then I feel sorry for you). I had TRD SuperSlut Coilovers rated 8k/6k and they were harsher than the Toda ones I had on my old EG, same 8k/6k spring rating, I suspect the damper quality of the Toda is superior but its also noted the SuperSlut don't give the feedback I came to appreciate from the Double Wishbone. I converted to the Macpherson after my Superslut started to give me the death knocks... This was my first Macpherson sussy equipped car so I wasn't too sure what spec... So I decided a little more conservative approach and elected for JIC FLT-TAR Coilovers with 7k/5k... I knew Macpherson was inferior but hell it was harsher than any of my previous street setups =| It was well within my tolerance (force exerted on me wise) but the handling suffered. Basically the Macpherson sussy, you will feel every bit of the Xk rating and it will be as harsh as it sounds. Thats why I could never understand why my friends with Macpherson/Simple Strut called me insane with 12k/8k on my EG hahaha... Also on coilovers... Most Japanese Coilovers use linear dampers which are typically give you underdampened feel and harsh/jarring ride where European brands use digressive pistons tech so it'll provide you firm but comfy and confident steering on any surface so you can brake or accelerate on any patch as hard as you like. Won't happen with your average JDM coilover...

Hardly the fault of slotted Rotors... I dunno what happened with your install or pads or rotors... Did you bed the pads and rotors separately? Did you bed them in properly? Atm I run Dixcel HS/FS Heat Treated and Slotted Rotors mixed with Endless MX72 up front with Dixcel M-Type on the rear, stops the car so hard I've falcon punched myself a few times... Previous cars I've run Project Mu, Endless, RDA (They're lol worthy) and DBA (Not up to my standard but for the money, get what you pay for...) all of them at least slotted if not dimpled and slotted, no issues what so ever...

On IPB board, you can limit newbies from seeing or accessing the classified/for sale area, there are of course different methods... Easiest way I've found is playing with the member groups + permission set/mask. Have a newbie group whatever you want to call them, after they've posted XX amount of times (On my old forum, post increased only in the technical sections stopping newbies from spam bombing the forum, though its true we have moderators and admins on around the clock cause its an international site) they'll be automatically put into the members group which then allows them to see/post in the classified. That way Daryl you won't get flooded or if something happens to you and you're too busy to attend to the site, it'll keep running since Steve isn't around much...

Before you go comparing dyno results, first ensure that they're all running Dyno Dynamic shootout mode which is the one you're using... Shootout mode make comparisons relatively comparable cause it goes to some lengths to 'normalise' variables giving more consistent results. If you're comparing Dyno Dynamics with/without shootout mode well then its open to the Dyno guy's calibration and adjustment which can lead to happy dynos. If you're comparing Mainline or Bosch to Dyno Dynamic then different again. Did you check your A/F? Is it high or low? What temp was your engine at? etc etc... Remember Dyno is just a tool to estimate your power, going in expecting X-Y-Z parts will net you 120fwkw is just silly... Sure there is a baseline but depending how good your tuner is and the sum of the parts you've used, you can get varying results.

Drive it harder LOL =P Anyway... Both sides were on point till both sides decided to go for idiot sterotypes...

I erm... Wasn't prepared for that one XD

Hmm..now I'm afraid to show what I have in build... What a load of... **** Come on man, its gotta top your old hatch right? =P

Ricers? How are Euro drivers ricers? Same applies to Aurion owners, I've seen Aurions with rice kits and 'go fast' parts. Silly to tag Euros ricers considering the majority are still owned by actual families or just recently passed down to their FnF son/daughter. As for the K24A being weak compared to the 2GR... You need some 1.1L increase in capacity and 2 extra cylinders to be faster? How about a 4cyl Camry if you want to compare like capactiy and # of cylinders? Realise faults in your logic yet? Volumeric Efficency > Cubic Inches/Capacity/Displacement/etc. Some of the replies in this thread (Serious ones anyway) are so ignorant. If Honda cars and engines are so terrible, why have all their sport compacts and their engines beaten the crap out of all the top offerings from Toyota? Comparing class rivals... AP1 F20C v RS200 3SGE / AE101/111 4AG v EG6/EK9 B16 / ZZZT23X 2ZZ-GE v DC5R/EP3R K20A and then you have the FD2R which Toyota don't even have an answer for because well... Lets not get started on that shall we ;) Anyway to OP, can't compare them... Aurion is just a V6 Camry designed to compete with Falcons and Commodores... Accord Euro made to compete in the Luxury segment with the low end European and Lexus...

Try posting in the right place :)

I dunno about the Tein Basic series, never used them but have tried and driven on Superstreets, Type NA/NR + Type HA/HR... Wasn't impressed. The Flex series is better but there are other brands for around the same money or cheaper perform same if not better than the Teins. D2/Ksport lol, the Superstreets were only marginally better, still oversprung, underdampened and rocked like a boat or made the car float ie Tires not in contact for maximum traction. @Low98rolla - You should be able to find some crazy low springs and some uprated shocks to help support it. Try checking local (King Springs) and overseas brands from America (eg. Eibach) and Europe (eg. Koni/Bilstein/SPAS/H&R).

Depends which ones... Flagship models only (Flex + Monoflex), the rest are horribly underdampened... Depends what you want out of the coilovers/shocks+springs and what your budget is, condition of the roads you generally drive on. "Best" we could say Quantum, Ohlins, Bilstein, Toda, etc... With each corner costing minimum $1k... If you're just driving on the streets and don't adjust much if any, then perhaps some good shocks and springs would be a better choice then some street creds to say, "I've got XXXXX coilovers". If you want to slam your car onto the pavement then yes Coilovers are the only way to go. Otherwise Coilovers, totally overrated and unnecessary unless you track and even then matched shocks + springs will out perform low - mid range coilovers ;)

You'll find a lot of replicas on NZ's Trademe (Beware of their fitiment) and on Yahoo Auction Japan (Expensive but usually find TRD, Bomex occasionally Tom's and C-One) If you're lucky you might find a lip on the AE111 half cuts in Australia but these are usually the PFL <97 models...

You won't find anything in Australia... You're best options are Japan and NZ.

Check on the net for the size of your centre hole, then check your wheel's centre bore hole just incase they're larger than normal. You guys haven't seen the damage they can do without the hubcentric rings. I've seen a set of TE37s, the exterior was pretty, if you look at the centre bore, it looked like someone grabbed a grinder and grinded it down. We're talking some of the best rims in the business... Had to get metal hub rings custom fab'd and fitted in to ensure it was circular.

Don't you mean 50px extra for the Silver members?

Delete plz XD

maybe someone got some RE0001s if the re001s were at 340, i doubt the sidewalls would be of a softer kind, rather more of a harder kind, hence the ku31s are 360 because people have experienced some slight to moderate tramlining when used over 35,000kms. having said that, after 35,000kms and people still want to use it on a track must be some proof that grip levels are still good. EDIT: And just wondering duddettes, those who have used re001s, how do you find them in the wet? are you confident? or are they unreliable and dodgy in the wet when aged? just getting it for a jazz in 195/50/15, and because the missus does do alot of mileage per year, naturally a softer compound would be better than a harder - but ive heard unconfirmed reports of re001s being a tad dodgy when in the wet when aged (althrough treadlevels are still good). They're better than C-Drives in the wet for sure. No sign of under or aquaplaning unless going beyond brave steering angle + speed lolz.

I "think" Pete means that it's $35 for people that want to get Mother's kit of some sort? Am I right Pete? While the $20 for people that don't want to get it. Put me down for $20 matey =)

Even genuine top-of-the-shelf wheels can warp and buckle if you drive them on too-rough roads or hit pot-holes, the Made In Italy Momo Twins that are on the ST162 have accrued 3 separate flat-spots since we got them (albeit secondhand), and word around the block is that Momo wheels (a fairly well known and quality brand if you spend the money, their cheap stuff is a bit meh though) are very soft despite being good quality. Yup, hence I said in due time. The life you get out of them obviously dependent what type of driver and the condition of the road (Usually crap being Australia) any rim can be damaged. I've yet to have any sort of damage with any of my good wheels, with the other one, not so lucky. The 1 year old Starcorps the previous owner put on the EG were way beyond gone, heavily warped while the Rotas weren't in flash condition before changing over to my Regas permanently. Ahhhh, gotta be careful here too. I've seen several AE111 6 spoke rims fail and various other Nissan and Honda ones crack too. Most are good but some just aren't.

People have to be aware, not all the Japanese rims are forged lightweight items. In fact a lot of the Australian popular ones eg Work Emotion CR Kais, SSR Type C are cast not forged though they're much better cast quality than those cheap copies. With the amount of crap roads, people don't realise until later than their cheap replicas are either warping or buckling in due time. I haven't touched a set of replica rims since using Rota Slips on my old old EG Civic and they're considered quite high quality for knock-offs. When it comes to keeping your car glued to the road, I'd rather not play...

^^^

Bigger is better mentality... =|