Vlad

water coming out her exhaust *de pipe {different vehicle}

hey trent, :) No smoke at all... no visible water coming out de pipe{karens is though different beast, same issue.. kinda} Correct i didnt take the block out.. fully bleed cooling system

hey there All, So first time posting about my 4th Gen GTR ST162 3SGE.. 86 Not terribly long ago I did a compression check on her and found that cyl2 was rather low in compression... So I went about doing a head gasket. New vrs kit MLS head gasket .. head was sent away for skimming and checking was pressure tested also.. So she's all back together new head bolts, new hoses timing belt etc.. The ISSUE. I'm loosing water... but only when i actually drive it{300M down the road} and the water levl drops below the top fins of the radiator......I can sit in the backyard idling for n hr and not loss any water. there are NO leaks anywhere. So Its A GTR with a 3SGE in it, has 2 individual rocker covers{2 peice}, no EGR, there is a YAMAHA stamp out{raised} just above the exhaust ports... and the head looks nothing like any of the othe 4 3SGE head i have on spare parts cars. . . also have a huge allen keys looking "welsh plug" between the 2 sets of exhaust ports.. going 2 be pulling her all down again in the nearish future so can and will take any 'requested" pics. any body have a similar issue? or can anybody shed some light on the situation. I'm thinking that my blocks got a crack somewhere. .. . . . Before the head gasket everything was fine the was no water loss the was no mixed fluids.. Just a "flat spot in the engine power that i figured was a compression issue, which "panned out" .. BUT has made things EXTREMELY worse. Peace Cheers

sound like a vacuum leak to me..

hey trent, actually while were on this topic a mate has a 2000ish Avalon with a blow motor...{ his misses passed away, she wasnt 1 for checking oil... :( } recommendations? it had a 1mzfe in it.. ,, or know any1 who would be interested in it? he just wants 2 get rid of it.. neat car..

hey there Trent, I know as long as u keep up service intervals, everything should be fine no matter what... {well should do... LMAO} i was more talking about running a 5w-** in a 5S isn't a real good idea due to the 'design' of the oil pump in itself..., the side channels between the fins and 'body' of the oil pump varies greatly on there ability to pump 'thin' oil. {Obviously that's an IMO... } there are many 'stories' i hear about ppls vehicles still surviving once 'thin' oil is run.. . .. . then again I hear much nastier stories about how instantaneously they start leaking & eating oil.. even to the point that rods get thrown. .. . . .

hey mr X ur right.. my bad, with the 2zz's there designeed for lighter oils... i Was more so talken about the engine in Q the 5s.

PENRITE!!!! never use anything else, get the appropriate weight for the amount of K's on the engine. > rule of thumb more k's thicker oil. I've never spun any bearings or anything of the like... had a vehicle that had kinda dodgie valve stem seals, so tried couplke of 'other brands'{not gonna name any names,} bad smell of most other oil makers, I reverted back to Penrite after valve stem seals were done and was back to being beautiful.. I only use the MINERAL BASED Penrite{have used semi-synthetic at ties} do em all my self Mineral based because and engine is metal right. metal still needs 'minerals' to be 'reabsorbed' .. .. right?...! and just to comment on a comment i read, just because u run a 'thin' oil doesn't mean the oil pump can pump it any quicker... quite the opposite actually. .

Ceika's full set delivered round 1000-+ depending on spec, camber/castor , valve settings, spring rates, dampener adjustment, height, helper springs, full kit and kabudle, all 4 delivered for under $1100..

Dont know... http://ceikaperformance.com/ get him 2 make u some, there fully awesome, and you can 'modify' them too suit you..

Hey there Liz, and welcome to the Celica forum! {I don't and haven't owned a ST18*/+} but i can 'opinion' on some things if u like... boot lift gas struts should be easily enough to get through any auto parts supplier {probably will have too be ordered in, and might be a pretty penny}... otherwise see if you can find a 'cheapo' at a wreckers... don't know of any 'know' issues, these 'gas type' struts can also be rebuilt/refilled if you take it too the right place> sent away.. Soft tops.... LOL... I think f you 'worried' about "quality" get it custom made from such places... places are easy enough too find normally in every 3nd town sorta thing..> radiator are things that block up and become more brittle over time!, nothing really unusual about that... due too people not using correct coolant etc as well as maintenance.. A few options you can do.. firstly make sure the water pumps perfect..{was it changed with the timing belt??} then follow up, take the radiator to a 'radiator mob' where you can have it 'boiled clean'/strip and clean maybe a few other things... or just get them to order you a replacement OEM type setup.. Or just find an aftermarket all alloy/aluminum Fix.. checking on the size to make sure its gonna fit.. > or take it 2 some2 'performance shop wise' to get them too fit 1.. there no point in buying a 2nd hand item{unless you know its new!} as this will probably just create more issues, not to mention not knowing if it's blocked or not, Might be able to find a 'reco' through wreckers... but then ur running the gauntlet of weather or not they actually did reco it on not.. Umm hope something in there help... also being a convert i would recommend looking in to 'aftermarket' support and bracing that can be installed to strengthen up the chassis. Peace being the convert does it have the 3SGE? {PERSONALLY.....{not starten nuten!!} I prefer these engine over the 'later model' 5SFE.. ..}

I know, Was only trying to get him to understand the true value of the beast.. I have no doubt that once it turns classic that it could easily fetch that... well put it this way i have 5{five} 4th gens.. bought for prices between $150 -$900 for really good clean vehicles.

redgo'ed rust free on ebay consistently round the $1500 or my 4th gen GTR would b worth millions... there's nothing that special bout a white lightning..

So since last post, I've managed to install everything the motor and all wiring has been RUN! the key turns and it makes NOISE... but doesn't actually 'crank' the engine over.. Further evaluation has come to find the starter motor is at fault. { the starter motor was purchased from ebay user JDMspares, they have been very rude and disrespectful in all of there 'correspondence' telling me that i'm lying and it to not fault of theirs.} So thats the the only thing stopping me from turning the motor over... still in the process of putting the passenger side rear tyre on, the brake caliper doesn't want to cooperate with me. the exhaust still needs to be mounted up to the boot{resonator/rear section}, and I havent been able to get my throttle body to come back to life {as it kept getting jammed at WOT.. :( } {new 1 is getting quoted up} so awesome to know that JDMspares has "robbed" me of yet more $$$ that i as a pensioner dont have.. > thanks for that. {guess my houses hot water system will just have to wait a little longer. [was hoping to sell the MR as soon as its running to help pay for a new 1] }