rt26tiara

Hi, If anyone is interested I have a NOS rear tail light lens to suit a 700 Publica. Ally Mac can you tell us where you live and if you are still thinking of selling your car. John johnnyrhino@msn.com 0411142670

Hi, I know what a Toyota Corona RT40,43,46,50,51,55 and 56 is but what is an RT41. Is it the same as a RT40 only with a 7R fitted instead of a 2R? I also have never seen a 7R engine. These early Corona's had 2R's fitted here in Australia and 3R's fitted in the USA. The sports models (1600S) had 4R's fitted withh twin SU carburetors. I'd be very interested to here more about your car. It may be that it was a special import. Does it have twin SU carburetors? Can you post some photos I understand that the 7R is similar to the 4R but has a bigger bore a shorter stroke. If this is the case you could replace the crank and conrods with those from a 2R or 12R. In effect you will be stroking the engine and increasing the capacity. Hope this helps John

Hi, I have two carby kits that will suit your car. They are complete kits but different brands. One includes a new mixture screw and the other does not. Give me a call and we should be able to work something out 0411142670. Check out my post on my MS41S Crown. Cheers John

Hi, Here is some pictures of my latest project. This is a 1967 Toyota Crown MS41S. As you can see this is the sports model with sports instrumentation, 4 speed floor shift sports interior. Twin SU carburetors and Dunlop disk Brakes. I have replaced the original "M" engine with a 4M. I am just waiting on some seals that I have ordered to finish rebuilding the brake booster, then it's ready to hit the road. At the moment I'm leaving the paint work as it is. I will probably paint the car in its original colour when I have a bit more money to spare. Cheers John

Just had to fit an adjustable brake proportioning valve because the back brakes were locking up before the front. I also fitted a brake pressure check valve to the rear line to reduce pedal travel. It's all ready for the engineering and roadworthy inspections then registration on Monday.

Sorry, I have some friends in Puerto Rico that have first chop at it if I ever sell it. This is the first time I have realy been able to test drive the car since I bought it 4 Years ago so there has been a couple of small things to sort out. I still have to fit a proportioning valve before the engineering inspection on the 16th as the back brakes are locking up before the front ones. Here's some photo's of the engine bay.

All finished!

Hi, Disk brakes were an option for RT80/81 Corona's and are a popular upgrade for RT40's. You don't have to replace the stub axles. The backing plates bolt up to the drum brake stub axles (as they do for RT40 Corona's). You just replace your original master cylinder with the one with a booster on the disk brake models, along with all the front end parts including the proportioning valve. If you look at the drivers side inner guard it should have a depression in it to accomodate the booster. On the RT40's you have to beat a depression into the guard to fit the booster. I am looking to purchase a RT81 with disk brakes, but I dont need the brake parts. If you want all the parts that are needed for a disk brake conversion I can sell them to you for $200.00. John johnnyrhino@msn.com 0411142670

Yeah, Something I may consider down the track. I'm getting stainless visors made for the tops of the door widows. I've still got to put the roof racks back on as well. John

Doors are on and interior is all finished. Only the Guards and Bonnet to go.

Hi, Here's some pictures of my progress. I have installed a RT40 column and indicator assembly along with a moon eyes steering wheel. I have been holding off until I could afford a top paint job but I never seem to have the money. I have decided to paint the Tiara Satin Black to get it finished and on the road. John

Hi, I also have played around with 2R's,4R's and 12R's. I had a 12R engine that I put a 4R head on. The head had no rocker assembly so I put the 12R rocker assembly on it. Trouble is the 12R rocker assembly is not as tall as the 2R/4R rocker assembly (inlet and exhaust valves have shorter stems and inlet valves are larger on 4R's). I used Isusu valves for the inlets and shortened the valve stems to suit. I also installed a Crow cam (could dig up the specs if you are interested). Next problem I faced was because of the shorter 12R rocker assembly and valve stem length, and the extra travel required as a result of the performance cam, the valve collets were hitting the top of the valve guides when the valves were fully open. I had to get a couple of millimetres shaved of the tops of the valve guides to allow for the extra travel. Bottom line is 12R's can not accomodate as much valve travel as the earlier 2R's and 4R,s because of the shorter valves and valve assembly. John

Hi Henry, I also could be persueded to sell my 64 wagon that I am in the process of restoring. It is mechanicaly A1 and needs minor body repairs before respraying. The seats have been recovered and the original door and rear cards are in good condition. I have fitted disk brakes, a perod heater demister, seatbelt anchor points and have lap sash retractable seatbelts for the front and back seats. This is a very rare car so I would not be giving it away. You can see photo's in this forum, on TORC or on Corona Country. My email is johnnyrhino@msn.com John Hi John, have replied to your email. thanks henry Hi Henry, Had any luck tracking down a Tiara? John

Hi David, Like Mark said, anyone who owns these cars is chasing the same parts. Hub caps are hard to get because they had a tendencey of falling off over bumps and were made from chrome plated steel rather than stainless steel like later model Toyota's. The few that I have are rusty. I tried to get a set rechromed. The plater that I took them too acid bathed the caps before chroming them. The acid used was trapped in the seam on the caps and continued eating away after they were plated. The were destroyed. 1964/65 caps are different to earlier caps. I have one set of early caps but they are rusty and would need rechroming One solution is to use caps that are simillar in design. I have used hollywood moon caps on my Tiara wagon and they look the part. Mine are 14" caps because I am running larger wheels because I have Installed Hilux Disk brakes. I think they are available in 13". Steering wheels were made from a poor quality plastic. As a result most wheels have cracked up long ago. Steering wheels can be repaired but to get it done profesionaly is very expensive. Another option would be to use a a RT40 Corona boss kit then put an after market steering wheel on the car. The problem is that the indicator mechanism on the Tiara is on the steering wheel and not on the column. You would have to buy an indicator mechanism and mount it to the column. These sort of mechanisms are available through hotrod and vintage car suppliers. The stainless trim on the Pick up is the same as the trim on the wagon's (Sedans have different trim). I have spent a long time getting good and/or repairable sections for my wagon. Again they are getting very hard to find. It may be easier to fill the holes and go without the trim. In Australia alot of Tiara's didn't have rear vision mirrors as standard. When they were fitted they were only fitted on the drivers side (right side) fender. 1964 and 1965 (In the USA) models had round mirrors. In Japan delux models had mirrors fitted to both fenders. Photo's I have seen of earlier model Tiara's show tappered type mirrors fitted to the fenders. Half the Tiara's I have seen have non genuine mirrors fitted. I'm sorry that I have not been able to help you out with the parts you are after but I do have a good collection of parts so you are welcome to contact me if there is anything else you need or if I can help you out with anything else. John Ryan johnnyrhino@msn.com