boxerboy

I use a K&N pleated gauze & oiled filter in my road bike. The original fit is poor and leaves a great gap at the front. However, there's an easy mod to ensure this doesn't happen. Any comparative research that I've read, had K&N down the list as far as filtration efficiency goes, but if the best is eg, 97% then K&N might be 94%. These numbers are off the top of my head...but show the scope of the diffference. Importantly, K&N suggest it will filter better the longer it goes without cleaning. They should be reoiled periodically, and each 10K ks has been suggested above. I do it every 3-4K ks on my bike, also knocking any dead insects etc out from th pleats. It gets cleaned each 50K ks. If I remove the airfilter and run my finger along the inside of the filter box, there is no dust residue at all.

I don't take my hands off the wheel, so I don't experience this effect. I don't understand why it's an issue really. Does it lead to mechanical damage eventually?

Ancap. http://www.howsafeisyourcar.com.au/2012/Toyota/Aurion/base/

Had the service today, and the knock wasn't reproducible. This knock is felt at low speeds when the brakes are applied lightly...so I'm wondering if it's something else. I've felt it through the pedal, and am wondering if it might be a separate issue from the intermediate shaft. Having written that, when I first noticed it, it was on a full lock low speed turn, which I haven't been able to simulate since. The braking knock is more consistent. It's been a few months now since I first noticed the knock at slow speeds,when using the brakes gently. It does it more consistently now (7K ks later)but it's still quite subtle. It's definitely not the same as the intermediate shaft problem. It does seem easier to ellicit when the car has been in use for a period , eg when well warmed up. It still has extended warranty, so I'll wait a tad longer before getting it looked into.

I'd walk away if I knew it had been seriously damaged, especially at those prices.

Bugger. I was told it was a manufacturing fault.

Had the service today, and the knock wasn't reproducible. This knock is felt at low speeds when the brakes are applied lightly...so I'm wondering if it's something else. I've felt it through the pedal, and am wondering if it might be a separate issue from the intermediate shaft. Having written that, when I first noticed it, it was on a full lock low speed turn, which I haven't been able to simulate since. The braking knock is more consistent.

My '08 46K Prodigy had its 45K service today, and when I started it up at collection, it rattled. Ignition off, restart, no rattle. It's been doing this lately, but only when cold, and not consistently. The service guy thought it might be from the "vvti cams". Cold start, less oil pressure, rattle. If so, should this be replaced as it has been with the OP?

First my ATX had the knock, and today I feel it in the '08 Prodigy. The car is still under warranty, and at 46K is due for a service.

I took my young niece on 3-4 Learner drives over Xmas. She hasn't quite worked out the subtleties of perfume. When driving home, with the aircon on "fresh" all the kids could smell was her perfume, though they couldn't identify it as such. It took a week to dissipate!

double post.

That's how it's always been with "normal" cars. I have always felt that buying a normal car new is like throwing money away. At best 50% depreciation private sale in 4-5 years and that seems to be rapidly diminishing. Almost 50% at trade in in 1 year is outrageous.

How many KMs does your car have? 46K. Wife tells me it's been doing it for a week now, but I still haven't had a chance to try it cold myself. It was fine today, but I didn't do the early start up.

My 2008 Prodigy has started to show a rattle when the ignition is turned on, but so far only at cold. I've noticed it on the last 3 cold starts. Next cold start, I'll try and isolate the noise a little better.

Driving lights or fog lights? Those lights below the head lights are fog lights aren't they? They're only legal to use in fog/appropriate weather conditions and generally a waste of money in Melbourne. $172 on the spot I was told by a copper, if used incorrectly. I know this isn't a common ticket, but it's a good thing to know. And hny to you to!

Just run in!

Cheapest option. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Car-Kit-Wireless-FM-MP3-Transmitter-iPhone-3G-3GS-/230516150826?pt=UK_AudioVideoElectronics_PortableAudio_MP3PlayerCarKits&hash=item35abd5522a&afsrc=1

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Car-Kit-Wireless-FM-MP3-Transmitter-iPhone-3G-3GS-/230516150826?pt=UK_AudioVideoElectronics_PortableAudio_MP3PlayerCarKits&hash=item35abd5522a might be worth a look.

Is your fuel cap loose?

This post deserves severe negative feedback re: lack of maturity.

With your relatively high ks I think we should be asking the questions! ;) Oh, and welcome. Does it come with a service history? What are the non service items that were fixed/replaced...that may give some insight into the longevity of the vehicle as a whole. Otherwise, to answer your question, I think I'd want a complete oil change/brake&steering fluids/new filters etc, then drive and assess.

You may be right, and I did qualify by saying that this was on my bike. It's also commonly reported by other users, usual pads that are involved are ebc brand, so I'm not the only one. I guess they all might be wrong? Usual fix is to do figure of 8's on sand paper, then reinstall. It does work, for a while. But remember, this is a bike, not the car.

Squeaky brakes on my bike is usually glazing. It happens after a few months of commuting. One hard ride thru some mountain twisties, with heavy braking fixes the glazing, and the squeak is gone. I never machine those discs, ever, and I figure the same technique in the car will fix any glazing. I've been told by a m/c disc manufacturer that heat will warp discs. He describes the situation where after some spirited riding/braking one comes to a stop. The pads are held to the disc and a hot spot develops. He suggested that it was best to brake, stop but roll ever so slowly to spread the heat away from the one spot. That advice was many years ago. No warped discs since.

We were doing some highway driving, 2 adults/2 teenagers, at 8.1 litres/100ks with aircon off. It rose to 8.5 with aircon on. I can't remember if the climate control was on or not, but it's usually set at 19c if so. 22c the last week though!

Do you have to add water or something?