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Showing results for tags '1mz-fe'.
Found 3 results
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Hey everyone! I go by OJ, I live in Melbourne, and I currently own a 1999 MCV20R Camry Touring. I’ve had it for a few years and I gotta say, these V6 Camrys are awesome to drive, despite most people my age (I’m 22) suggesting they’re slow as hell. Have another MCV20R that’s been in the family for a long time, so when it came to buying my own daily, there really was no other contender. Anyway, I’ve recently gotten hooked on the idea of doing the old Camry up a bit and make it look a bit sleeker and nicer, so expect some questions about things like wheel fitment and swapping parts over and things of that nature. I’ve also recently gotten interested in getting a Z20 Soarer as a project/weekend type car. Big thing with this idea is to engine swap a 1JZ into it. So I’ll probably be making posts asking about specific specs and things I might need to know in order to do the swap properly. The Soarer is more of just an idea at the moment and I really want to make sure I’ll be doing it right. I hope I can count on this groups collective knowledge to make sure I don’t butcher it 😂. Looking forward to talking with you all.
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I have been chasing a fault on my 2000 Avalon for 18 months (after sending it repeatedly to a mechanic for repair. The fault was intermittent engine light (MIL), which eventually came on constantly (after closed-loop warm-up). The fault was diagnosed as knock sensors (OBDII Code PO325/330). The knock sensors were replaced twice and the harness also replaced and the PCM (Powertrain Control Module - computer) was sent away for checking by a specialist. When they still couldn't fix the problem, I had a look at the knock sensor outputs on an oscilloscope. I should mention that if driving the engine hard, the MIL would not illuminate as the computer then only looks at the TPS (throttle position sensor) for ignition timing. I noticed that the knock sensors had different level outputs, so I fitted an amplifier (disused computer sound card amp) with a gain of x2 between the knock sensor leads and the PCM inputs. I have just completed a 4,500Km interstate trip with no further problems with the MIL! So the answer was easy - only fit genuine Toyota Knock Sensors to this engine (which I priced at $263 against after market ones of around $70).
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Hi all, this is my first post. I inherited a '98 V6 camry in need of repair, which has been a pet project of mine these last months, to learn auto skills. I am currently diagnosing a squel/persistent chirp from the belt area. I removed the alternator(and ac?) belt that was easy to get at, it was in good condition, the three pulleys it ran through were true and spun freely. I reattached the belt, tightened, started engine and the is noise still there. Before I go further, is it safe for me to remove this belt and start the engine? I would like to be thorough, and I am curious to know now. I'll probably have more questions in coming weeks and months, I'm enjoying working on the car and have found previous threads from this forum to be very useful. Cheers, Mic
