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Found 8 results

  1. General topic of discussion on what tyres people are running on STOCK/OEM alloy wheels Discussion is applicable to basically every Camry/Aurion & Avalon from 2000 - Current Wether it be 16", 17", 18" or 19" rims, a true enthusiast won't run "no branded/cheapie tyres" If any non branded/respected tyres come into question, please don't comment 😁 Michelin, Continental, Toyo, Falken, etc etc all welcome. Include the size, aspect ratio & profile gentleman/ladies ! PLEASE BE CIVIL, KEEP IT FRIENDLY
  2. Hi all. This is my 3rd Aurion. 2 GSV40 and now a GSV50. I do most mechanical work myself. 2 back operations have slowed that down recently but anyway on with my story. I recently purchased a 2014 prodigy. 61000kms. Started life as a fleet car and then sold privately at 8000kms to the owner before me who was an elderly gentleman. The cars in fairly good condition. His service history is not so much. Looks as if the oil was was changed at 8000, 30000 and 60000. There are 2 other services 11k and 20k but no information. So I'm thinking at worst which I knew before buying, that it's possibly gone 30k without an oil change. Now this is not 100% but is definitely possible. The old fellah had failing health and I bought the car off the dealership thst acquired it for him when he wanted one back in 2015 at 8000kms. He's apparently become ill so his family sold it back to the dealership he bought it from. Good country town ethics. Anyway so they didn't really want to call the old fellah to ask about the missing 45000 service. The dealership rang the other mechanic in the area and he had also not done it. So let's just assume it was done at 8000, 30000 and 60000. I have not pulled the valve cover off bank 2 yet but I took off the PCV valve and it looks as followed. {SEE PICTURES) I put my pinky in the plug hole too and felt around, it definitely has a sticky varbish under the valve cover, just like you can see on the head of the PCV valve. Actual valve is clear and opening and closing freely. I've never used an engine flush before, that's why I'm here asking questions. 1) Should I pull the valve cover off too properly inspect before deciding to use an engine oil flush like Nulon for example? 2) From the pic of the PCV, would you consider this amount of varnish to be worth doing an engine oil flush? 3) Anyone had any bad experiences with oil flushes afterwards, like noisy lifters or oil leaks? The car blows no smoke and runs great but within 500km of the oil change from the dealership I can see the oil starting to become dirty. Light brownish. Not black. But it shouldn't be this dirty already IMO. 4) So is varnish worth clearing or not? What do you think 😃 I love my 2gr-fe's that's why I buy these vehicles. Not for the looks of course 😲😉. So any help on a new found topic for me would be greatly appreciated. I of course will be doing regular oil changes that I now own it and I just want to give it its best life from here on in, a clean slate if that makes sense. I won't deny I do enjoy putting my foot down quite often, so I try to give my engines the best life I can with regular servicing and qaulity fuel.
  3. Hi there, In my 2010 Aurion and after a day a rattle appeared from the engine under load at idle (ie in R or D sitting stationery or with A/C on). The Car have only 50,000.K I have changed the Blet and the Alternator. This noise is coming from the belt and pulley. If I remove the belt its ok. No Noise. Any Help? Thanks Engine hot or cold noise is still there when engine is under load. At Hi RPM there is no noise. Thanks
  4. 2008 Kluger GSU40R Engine 2GR-FE Vehicle purchased with 120,000kms. It was only 2yrs old with predominantly freeway driving - so very easy life. Since the, I've touched on 10,000km per year. Problem I think is because the car is hardly used and just takes me to the train station and back on most days. So plenty of cold starts and limited travel. Transports the whole family wherever on weekends. Serviced every 7.5k since then. 1) Before replacing oil I use Wynns Engine Flush 2) I replace with Gulf Western 10W-30 semi synthetic oil and genuine filter. 3) Then add Wynns Engine Tune Up and Oil Stabiliser. Recently, experiencing an engine knock intermittently at startup. Does not happen immediately after on second startup. So once in a blue moon. Sounds exactly like this youtube video (not mine). Research has led me to the TSB0094_09 for which my VIN falls within the given affected vehicles. Will validate the TSB is the fault when i take it to Toyota to check if the computer throws out the given codes. Very expensive fix unless anyone can advise alternatives. More so, I've just purchased a 2012 Lexus IS350 with the 2GR-FSE motor. VIN not listed on this TSB so phew for that! However can anyone suggest where I may have gone wrong in my servicing regime above OR was this just an inevitable consequence of bad design flaw affecting just some motors?
  5. Hi Guys, Had a major oil leak last Friday, basically I just got onto the freeway and the low engine oil pressure light came up on the dash. Pulled up immediately on the breakdown lane, and looked underneath the car. There was a leak evident, and looks like the leak occurred at speed as there was a fair bit spread underneath the car and splatter near the rear diffiuser. Anyways, I got the car towed to my local dealership, and just today they have found the oil leak - a pinhole leak on a oil pipe. I queried whether this was a VVTi Oil Pipe as i'm aware of the issue of VVTi recall and updated pipe available, however they have said it is a different oil pipe. I do recall when purchasing the car second hand the dealer told me the VVTi updated pipe replacement has been carried out. Furthermore, when I checked underneath the bonnet there was no smoke, or burning oil smell (which I would expect if it was VVTi hose close to the engine) - They want to charge me $140 for the oil pipe, and 1.5hrs worth of labour for the install. WORST thing is the pipe is not available in the country, and I have to wait 14 working days for them to bring it in! Does this sound right? - I also asked them about carrying out 120,000km service after the repair (as it has already done 117,000km already) and they wanted to charge me $490 for the service. Most dealers I called were charging $345. They lady said it was because of the brake fluid replacement, though this fluid is only 500ml, and is less than $20 at Supercheap. The reason why I want to do this service as they will need to top up the oil as most has leaked away. I think they're trying to stitch me up big time. Thoughts? - Lastly, will there be any issues with storing the vehicle whilst waiting for parts (14 working days..), with little or no engine oil? With summer well on its way, I have some concerns... Any thoughts/advice/recommendations or insights highly appreciated. TheDrake