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  1. Hello everyone, First post, been a long time lurker here, and member over at TEOC.ws, but I figured it was time to create an account here too and see if anyone has been in our predicament. I'll start with a truncated version of my TEOC post from June 3, the day after this happened, to give it some context: ORIGINAL POST - June 3, 2017, 4PM PST:My wife and I have two young kids and took the ferry over to Vancouver Island for a family wedding. Friday night we went for dinner with both of them and another couple. In the hustle and bustle when we left the restaurant, on a busy Friday evening, trying to keep the kids from running into the street, and stopping to tie one of their shoes on a crowded sidewalk with both our hands full of stuff—well, you get the idea. Somewhere along the walk, the keys got put down (not dropped, or we would have heard them) and when we retraced our steps, they were gone.I'd hoped some good citizen would have given them to a doorman at one of the many busy bars in the area, but nothing was turned in. Talked to the police, the only thing dropped off at the department was a wallet. I can only assume someone grabbed them intending to try the remote unlock to see what they could steal, or maybe it was some kid, who doesn't realize what he picked up. What was picked up is the only three-button RFID transmitter key (Toyota Part #89070-28290, I think?) in existence on this continent for our van. I bought the vehicle a month ago from a dealer who led me to believe they would be receiving another key for it from Japan in the few weeks following our purchase. This was not the case; as the manager just informed me, the wholesaler only ever had one key for this vehicle. We feel lied to and angry that we didn't think to look up this information ourselves.In the month we've owned it, I'd tried to get the key copied but our local key cutter did not have these in stock. Our family trip arrived before we could find/order an alternative. And we didn't know/weren't told by the dealer that these keys are literally worth their weight in gold if you only have one.We are desperate to try anything. I dug through trash cans along the route before giving up and getting it towed to the hotel (using dollies of course since it's an AWD hybrid). The key is somewhere on Vancouver Island, and is the van's only way off it at the moment. UPDATE #1 - June 6, 2017, 10PM PST: No word yet, still hoping/praying someone will find it and return it. In the event that doesn't happen, I've been scouring the internet looking for any and all information about how to reprogram a new master key without the existing master key. I've done a pile of research in the four days since this happened, having barely slept, and I think I have boiled our options down to two potential solutions that don't involve scrapping the car. Has anyone out there ever done anything like either of the below? Potential Solution #1 Physical Key: No matter what, we need to order a replacement 3-button key either from Toyota Japan, or eBay if we can find the exact model. We'll need one regardless of whether or not we find the lost key, since the first thing we'd do with that is clone it! We take the door panel off and find the key code on the door cylinder (assuming it exists and that's where to find it) Once we receive the replacement key from eBay or Japan or wherever, we source a few non-RFID blank keys with the same profile, for the locksmith to practice on, and also to create a replacement manual key for if we get locked out somehow. Locksmith will create a new key from the cylinder code on one of the non-RFID blanks. Once we're sure it opens the doors and turns the ignition, we get him to cut the RFID blank to match that. Immobilizer transponder replacement/programming of new RFID key: According to a mechanic I spoke to in NZ, if we replace the immobilizer transponder we should be able to program the new key to match it, which would then send a "correct" message to the ECU, allowing the car to start. This assumes the key codes are stored only in the immobilizer ECU and not in the engine ECU. Replacing the transponder requires removal of the dash as far as I can tell. Has anyone ever done this? I can't find any resources on how to remove the dash on a MK2, or even if I need to, since the immobilizer appears to be located quite a bit lower in the dash behind the storage compartment and between the footwells. Anyway, we have to find answers to the following questions before we start: Is there even a key code on the door lock cylinder that will allow us to create a new physical key for both it and the ignition? Is replacing the immobilizer transponder and cutting/programming a new RFID key all that is required to defeat the immobilizer? Is there any chance that the key codes are stored in the engine ECU as well as in the immobilizer transponder? If it turns out that ONLY a transponder and new key are what's needed, what is the procedure to install and program them? It's my understanding that replacing the transponder involves a 30-minute handshake procedure between the new transponder and the ECU, and that this involves shorting the pins on the OBD connector. if so, which ones? Is the fact that this vehicle is M-OBD and not OBDII compliant going to be a problem? Will programming this new key allow us to unlock the doors remotely and use the power slider, or does this only allow us to manually unlock + start the car? Will the cut-but-not-yet-programmed key allow us to close the windows, so that we can enter programming mode? Solution #2: Similar to Solution #1, except we don't order a new immo transponder. Instead we pull the old one, hire a skilled programmer to connect directly to the EEPROM chip that stores the key data, zero the key values out, and reinstall the now-virginized transponder as if it's a new one. This raises the same questions as above, assuming it even works at all after we mess with the memory. I've see this done on a Camry (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRz2b1S2PGk&t=6s) but not on a JDM Estima Hybrid. If anyone can provide clear, precise answers to the above eight questions, we will start down this perilous path. Thanks, John and MariaSurrey, BCCanada 604-616-8384
  2. On warm days, above 33'C usually, the cruise control, central locking and power windows intermittently stop working but not all at once. It's usually one or the other. My thoughts are that the ECU has some bad joins in it? But I'm not sure if it controls all these items
  3. So after losing my original key fob for my 2001 XV20 Camry Touring, I had a spare key fob laying around and thought to re-program the car's security system to register this new one, but I cannot get the car to go into program mode for the life of me! I've tried the lock and unlock buttons on the driver door method, the open and close driver door method. So right now, I'd be thankful for any help at all with figuring out how to re-program the remote. Thanks!
  4. Hi all - anyone with a Rav4 from 2001-2003 ever experienced problems with gears changing at random? This is a problem with the computer (ECU or ECM) that is sending the wrong message to the transmission and it changes into the wrong gear without warning. This is known as 'harsh shift' problem: http://www.rav4repair.com/documents/TSB0156.pdf If you have this problem, or had it, it is really important that you report it to the Department of Infrastructure and Regional Development ASAP: https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/complaints_recalls/form_submission.aspx They investigate products that have safety issues and will inform the ACCC if a recall is necessary. A recall will not happen unless there are reports of the product failure and safety concerns through the Department of Infrastructure. I am looking at the possibility of starting a class action for a recall because this is a factory fault that is putting Rav4 drivers in danger. It is well documented and well understood by Toyota. These are the most common symptoms: Erratic Shifting.Transmission slips in any gear, but mostly from second to third gear.Starting in 3rd gear and shifting erratically or not shifting at all.Hesitation when engaging in any of the gears.Rattling noise coming from the front area when the engine is running.The feeling of applying the brakes by it self in occasions.False solenoid codes; P0750, P0753, P0755, P0758 and/or P1760.The codes above not always show (DTC codes). Sometimes it fails with no codes at all or no check engine light.Engages hard in reverse with a "bump" or takes time to engage.Symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes symptoms only show up when warm or when cold and sometimes symptoms do not show at all.One day it runs OK. All the symptoms magically disappear, but the next day, all or some of those symptoms are back.In many cases, fuel economy or gas mileage is lower than normal.This is a safety concern as the car can shift into a low gear without warning while you are driving at high speed or in heavy traffic. Because it is a gear change, break lights don't warn cars behind you that you are suddenly stopping or slowing down, putting you in a dangerous situation. I have also been stuck trying to cross traffic at an intersection and it has dropped into top gear and I cannot move across the intersection and out of the traffic. I have been in touch with the ACCC who are looking into the matter as there was a recall by Toyota in USA: http://www.rav4repair.com/documents/warranty.pdf If anyone is experiencing these problems or has had this fixed and you are interested in putting pressure on Toyota for a recall in Australia, please contact me. If this happens, the costs of your repairs could be reimbursed. Toyota_warranty policy bulletin.pdf
  5. Hi guys and girls, I'm currently doing some repair work on my wife's year 2000 RAV4 Edge Manual before it gets passed on to a relative who is just about to get their license. I have a problem which I believe (at this stage) traces back to the ECU, so I'm trying to replace it. (On the off chance someone recognises this issue: the middle two cylinders aren't firing, as though the vehicle was in limp mode, BUT no engine error light on the dash. Injectors and spark coils check out OK). The part number of the ECU in the vehicle is 89661-42690. I'm unable to find a second hand example of that part. HOWEVER, on ebay, I can find a very similar looking part with the part number 89661-42691. The part is identical in every other way, including the type of car it's suited for which is marked on it: 1AZ-FE 4x4MT Does anyone happen to know of this part is a suitable replacement for the one in my vehicle? kind regards Matthew P Brisbane
  6. Toyoya Link send an SMS about a message on my phone for Mayday ECU backup battery low. Changing this battery with dealer was going to cost me more than $300. hence decided to do it myself. With ideas from other posts in the forum I successfully opened the "Black box" hanging in the boot , located the battery and took it out. Reading only 5.3V against rquired 7.2V. Its a 7.2V NiCD battery. Checked online for Ni MH battery which is better. Found many options - Can buy 6 of C Size chargeable battery with tabs and solder them together or can buy assembled 6cell 7.2 V battery . Cost varying from $25 to $60 including shipping. The connection need to be taken from the old battery and soldered on to the new one. The suggestion in one of the topics that the rear seats need not be removed came out very handy. Pulled out the side panels with SRS Airbag written on them.( Not hard; Gently pulling at each plastic pin briings it out. Once both sides are removed the tray also lifts out easily. Had to do some mucking around to take the tray out as 3 sealts were coming on the way. Loosening the belt make it easy to remove the tray. Then you have another layer with padding which pulls out very easily. Now the speakers and the nuts mounting the May day ECU are exposed. 12mm ratchet spanner easily removes the 4 nuts. Now the box will hang from 2 plastic clips. Pull out the antenna plugs and other connectors by pressing their locks. One cable tie need to be cut to release the big cable bunch. Slowly slide it out of the 2 plastic clips while having some one to hold the "black box" or it will fall in the boot. Now the plastic cover holding the battery is visible held by 6 torr screws. Once the cover is removed the battery is exposed. It is made of 6 C Size chargeable cells of 1.2 V each. Dimensions roughly 140mm x 47mm x 25mm . Any chargeablel battery pack close to this dimension and rating 2.5Ah, 7.2V should do the job. original replacemnt from Toyota available for about $80 Have ordered a battery from ebay USA. Till that time I have kept the black box out. Will put it back once the battery arrive. ( Search on ebay "Onyx NiMH 6C 7.2V 2500mAh Stick Battery " See some photos below Took me about an hour to get to the battery following above steps without disturbing the back seats. The car is running with no issues with the black box out
  7. Hi all Looking for a 2nd hand Anti-skid ECU. The part numbers from Toyota are TO8954047120 or TO 8954047090. It is located under the driver's side of the dash near the steering column. I have located a part from an 08 model (Gen II also) but the part number is TO8954047070. I asked the local Toyota dealership parts guy if this was compatible with my model but all I got back was the company line of "we only have TO8954047120 in stock". No real reply to the actual question. If anyone knows if TO8954047070 is compatible with a 2005 Gen II (or not) please let me know. Regards Robert

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