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Found 7 results

  1. Jagman


    Hi,everybody. My dearly beloved son has left his 1992 mr2 sitting in my driveway. He bought a new Toyota 86 and has been promising to get rid of the MR2 for about 3 years!! It is 2 years since it was last started and he has let the rego lapse. Is this vehicle interesting to anyone? I am in WA and my email address is jagmansiii @ Hotmail.com Max.
  3. Whilst the MR2 Roadster has very few flaws as either a fun cheap sports car or as a precision tool to hit the track with, there is one thing that we as a Club feel every owner should be aware of, and that is the pre-catalytic converters (or pre-cats for short). There have been a huge amount of questions on here since the forum began regarding these, and this thread is here to hopefully answer any and all questions that have cropped up about the pre-cats, as well as dispel some myths about them. *Please note: The Club neither encourages nor advocates the interference with emissions equipment on any motor vehicle, and we take no responsibility for any action taken by any person as a result of reading this article. All text and pictures here are for information purposes only.* What is a pre-cat? To put it quite simply, the pre-cats sit before the main catalytic converter in the exhaust system and help to keep the harmful emissions as low as possible for a short period after you start the car up. Of course, there is slightly more to it than that… The main catalytic converter in the Mk3 works best at converting the harmful compounds contained within the exhaust gas at high temperatures: However, since the engine takes a while to heat up to it's optimum running temperature, there is a time when a great deal of harmful emissions are allowed to simply pass straight through the cat and are dispersed into the air. Toyota obviously wanted to keep these emissions to an absolute minimum to enable the car to be classed as a ULEV (Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle) to allow the Mk3 to be sold in California (they have practically the most stringent rules on car emissions anywhere in the world there!), so between the engine and main cat they placed two pre-cats contained within the main manifold itself. The manifold itself looks like this: The four headers run into the two chambers containing the pre-cats, and then they're passed onto the main cat to let it do its job. The pre-cats are made from a ceramic material, which whilst excellent at absorbing the noxious gasses at low temperatures, is also highly brittle… Why are we worried about them? As stated above, the pre-cats themselves are not the strongest material known to man, and they have been known to break down and enter the engine, causing serious damage to the internals. When this sort of damage has occurred, you are almost certainly looking at needing a new engine. Woah, wait a minute! How can the pre-cat get back into the engine: Surely the exhaust flow pushes it all out? True to a certain extent, but here's the clever bit… The 1ZZ-FE engine (Toyota's designation for the engine inside the MR2 Roadster) is a very clever piece of kit, and arguably its main party piece is the VVTi, or Variable Valve Timing Intelligent. This increases engine response all over the rev range by altering the timing of the cams, allowing for differing amounts of valve overlap in order to give great low-down torque as well as good top-end power. The 1ZZ also uses it's VVT to perform EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) functions without the aid of a specific valve like other cars. Under certain operating conditions (usually steady cruise) the cams are timed to scavenge some exhaust gas back into the cylinders, as a way of reducing the high hydrocarbon emissions that modern petrol engines generate at certain times. Unfortunately, when you combine this with some very sharp ceramic pre-cat particles, you can imagine what happens: The pre-cats start breaking down, and get dropped into the main cat which then causes excessive pressure, leading to oil blow-by in the engine. When the VVTi kicks in, the pre-cats are sucked back in and scratch and score the cylinder walls, leading to more oil passing by the piston rings and being burnt off without you even realising it. No oil in an engine leads to massive failure as every moving part grinds against metal, and in short you end up with a practically useless engine. When this happens the situation is compounded by the fact that hot oil is now allowed to drip directly onto the pre-cats and break them down even quicker, which in turn allows large chunks to block the main cat even more, which then stops any smaller pre-cat material escaping at all and sucks even more back into the engine to cause even more damage… A vicious circle of the very worst kind. Some common symptoms of pre-cat failure are extreme oil loss, very noticeable lack of power all the way through the rev range, and horrible noises coming from your engine bay. Essentially, if you've got any of these problems and they are directly related to pre-cat loss, then it's too late. Even the oil warning light won't save you here, as by the time it comes on there's almost zero oil left in the engine anyway. For more information on how an engine works in general, please click here for a link to HowStuffWorks.com But I've read elsewhere that the pre-cats themselves are fine, it the piston rings which are the weakness… This is where we come across a real conundrum, and a question to which no-one has a definitive answer. It's true that on very early MK3s there was a known problem with the piston rings themselves on a 1ZZ, and Toyota issued a technical document to the dealers around the world stating as such. They also changed the design of the piston rings for the facelift version of the Roadster, which became available in 2003. Now whether it's a case of the piston rings failing, oil dripping onto the pre-cats and breaking them up, or the pre-cats self destructing and taking the piston rings with them, we just don't know. All we do know for certain is that whilst you can't take the piston rings out of the engine, you can remove the pre-cats from the manifold. No pre-cats = Nothing to get sucked back into the engine. Okay, so the pre-cats are obviously a bad thing, but what can I do about it? Is there any way to tell if they're okay on my car? There is only one sure way of telling, and that it to remove the entire manifold and check both the top and bottoms of the pre-cats for any signs of damage. This is the only 100% way. I'm not very mechanically minded, so is there another way? Even if it's not 100%? Yup, and this is the way 99% of people do it (myself included). It's very simple, and requires nothing more than a 22mm O2 sensor removal socket (Available from here for one, but you can get them at many other places as well, this is just an example), a can of PlusGas or similar penetrating oil (WD40 will do at a push, but it's a lot easier with the PlusGas), and a torch. The picture above shows the heatshield which covers the manifold itself, and is how your car looks when you open the engine bay. Coming out of either side of the heatshield are the O2 sensors, which need to be removed to see the pre-cats from the top only. 1. Get the engine nice and warm first, it'll make this job a lot easier! 2. Spray the PlusGas liberally onto the joint where the O2 sensor meets the manifold. Leave for 10 minutes, then spray it again. You cannot use enough of this stuff, trust me! Don't worry about the steam coming off; it's not doing anything any harm. 3. Being very careful not to burn yourself on the heat shield, use the O2 socket to remove the sensors, Unplug them first from the plastic clip (it's a simple push-tab-and-release connection), and make sure you turn them anti-clockwise. If you have an older vehicle, you may find that these are very stubborn, but do persevere and don't be afraid to give it a little elbow-grease! 4. Pull the sensor out of the socket and place carefully on the floor, away from your feet. You don't really want to tread on it now you've done the hard part, do you?! 5. Take the torch and shine it into the holes. You're looking for a completely solid honeycomb matrix with no cracks or large holes in it, like this: 6. When you've finished checking (and hopefully found that they're still intact), simply screw the O2 sensor back in and nip it up with the socket. Oh, and you may want to plug it back in too. My pre-cats look fine! I'm safe! *dances* Not quite: They're still very fragile, and remember you can't see the bottom of the matrix from that angle either. All this means is that your engine is still fine and you're not in any immediate danger of the pre-cats failing. Oh, okay. So what's the next step then? The only 100% sure way to protect your engine is total removal of the pre-cats from the manifold. This isn't a particularly hard job, but it is more involved than simply removing the sensors.
  4. Here are a couple of bits of preventative maintenance that will save a soggy interior and seized filler cap hinge. The MkIII Roadster is prone to waterlogged interiors due to the clogging up of the two drain valves located behind the side engine vents. You can check if these are clear by pulling the hood about half way back and looking down between the hood and body side near the engine intakes, if it looks dry then all is well but if you see a pool of water then likely as not the drain valves are blocked. The side vent covers are easily removed with a little care and clearing the blockage is very easy. While the nearside cover is off it is possible to access the filler cap hinge behind, this can then be lubricated which will prevent the inconvenience of not being able to fill up. Here are the photographs I took while doing my car. Hope it will be of help to some of you
  5. Hey guys, so I've got an 01 MR2, I've had the pre cats removed as a precaution but unfortunately i now have an engine light one, can anyone help?
  6. Toyota Mr2 30th Anniversary Event NSW 28th June 2014 This year marks 30 years since the AW11 Toyota MR2 was first available for sale back in 1984, so the MR2 Club of NSW has decided to host an event and celebrate this milestone for the car and marque that we love! 2014 will also be the 25th anniversary of the SW20 (first launched in 1989) and the 15th anniversary of the ZZW30 (launched in 1999) MR2's, so it's a special year no matter which model you own and love! The activities for the day will start with a cruise, our convoy of MR2's driving over the Anzac and Sydney Harbour bridges meeting at lillyfield at 9.30am for 10am departure, after which we will then head out to Al Palmer Repairs in Penrith, where we will have a BBQ lunch $1 snags & drinks and MR2 Show n Shine from midday. The show and shine will be free for financial club members, and will be $10 for non members that wish to enter their cars. You can also sign up to be a club member on the day (or any time before the event) and take advantage of the free entry. We will have trophies for the best MR2's of the day, as well as other prizes and giveaways, stay tuned for more info as we get closer to the event. It is scheduled for the weekend after the event hosted by the MR2 Owners Club of Australia - VIC Branch, so you won't miss out on either if you were planning to head south of the border for the Vic event. This will be an day not to be missed, so clear the date in your schedule now! Please also take a moment to RSVP to the club to let us know if you will be attending, either via email mr2nswsec@gmail.com or joining the event on our Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/Mr2OwnersClu...raliaNswBranch). We hope to see you all there! MR2 NSW Club Comittee
  7. Updated and combined list of MR2 parts which are all available Just to give you an idea if anything isn't mentioned the MR2's that I am parting are: A Custom colour turbo sw20 A black turbo sw20 A red non turbo sw20 Some white panels also avalable. GEN 2/3 Parts available Just post here or send me a PM i most likely can help you out. Pictured Parts as follows: (non-pictured items are in the list below all the pictures) ROH 2 PIECE chicane wheels - good condition, I've given them a quick wash but could do with a better wash and polish of lips sit good on SW20, rear tyres like new fronts worn but still legal, small ding on very edge of rear rim, not very noticable could be rolled out or may hammer out, white paint is good although a little chiped around wheel nut holes RIMS: 16 X 7 5/114.3 OP Fronts 16 X 8 5/114.3 OP Rears TYRES: 205/45 R17 DUNLOP, 235/45 R17 NEXEN $750 set. Super Rare SW20 Cup Holder with removable storage box GEN 3 Lip, Bar, Side Strips Lamborghini Orange Metallic Interior trim (a few small chips but overall good) JDM Seatbelt latches. Pair of OEM tweeters Center console box Chrome metal shift knob All piping available Pair of arch guards $60 per side. or $110 pair Quarter window vents $35 per side or $60 pair delivered, GFB boost controller, 3SGTE and 3SGE Accelerator cables $100 delivered. Custom intercooler $220 delivered. Un-pictured Parts: - GEN 3 extended boot lock barrel - GEN 3 tail light center garnish L brackets - GEN 3 MR2 center panel badge (Brand New) - GEN 3 non-turbo bathurst engine and transmission - Front and rear black carpets - Grey interior roof trim (targa shades, roof trim, light, visors) - Crack free ashtray - 3SGTE Gear Linkages - 3SGE Gear Linkages - 3SGE axles - Seat belts - 3SGTE engine mounts - Orange indicators - Igniter coil - Fuel pump resistor pack - 3SGTE Air Flow Meter - Standard Intercooler - Rear quarter windows - Momo gear knob - OEM Wheels with near new tyres - As new GEN 3 spare wheel and tyres - Full set of GEN 3 shocks - OEM front V shaped brace - GEN 3 larger twin piston front brakes - GEN 3 larger rear 22v brakes - OEM REV 1/2 brakes - OEM Brake discs - Uncracked door handle cups - OEM passanger cloth seat - Pair of bathurst SW20 Seats - Center console box - Rear boot carpet - Complete set of side trim strips - Plastic underbody trays - Original targa top bags $100 delivered - Original MR2 tool bag and jack - All air-conditioner/heater/coolant/fuel piping - Turbo climate control - Original stereo system - Factory speakers & tweeters - Non-turbo door cards with carpet inserts , both JDM and ADM available - GEN 3 boot lid - Gen 3 wing - Strait black boot lid with factory holes for spoiler - Red boot lid with factory 1990 spoiler - Red non-turbo engine lid - Rear window - Passenger Black door - Drivers and Passenger doors JDM - Drivers and Passenger doors ADM (with side intrusion bars) - Door handles - Air conditioner compressor, with the 2 lines still attached and also include idler pulley if needed, - 2 radiators one looks like a reconditioned unit, both good. either one $150 delivered. Plus heaps, heaps more PM me or Post here

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