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Found 6 results

  1. My 2006 Aurion ATX now has 225,675 kms on the odometer. It could be somewhat overdue for a fuel filter replacement. I do not know whether the fuel filter was replaced before 165,000 kms when I bought the vehicle. Ryco Z646 or equivalent is a direct fitment for the 40 Series Aurion. I have previously watched a number of YouTube videos. Removing the bottom cushion of the rear seat was relatively easy. Prying off the cover was also easy but that black adhesive is messy. I used 2 small screwdrivers, 1 to push on the retaining clip of the electrical connector and the other one to pry it up. As per the YouTube videos, I started the engine which only ran for a minute before dying and this reduced the system pressure. I then fully removed the yellow plastic retaining clip and the hose came off quite easily. I used a large round magnet [instead of a parts tray] to keep track of the small 8mm ring retaining bolts. It was quite easy to manouvre out the fuel filter and pump assembly. Hard part was disassembling the various components to get down to just the fuel filter body. Multiple small screwdrivers and/or pick tools will be needed to unclip various parts. Hardest challenge was removing the sender unit which I found out has 2 parts. Upper part can be removed by pushing upwards. Base component is removed by pushing downwards so that the underneath tabs move into a small rectangular area then it releases and can be pried loose. Fuel pump is removed by pushing downwards. An upper o-ring is what holds the pump in position. I tried to spray clean the fuel pump strainer sock but no noticeable difference. Fortunately, I had previous bought some on eBay which were a smaller size but did fit. This is the type of strainer sock with a straight hole for the retaining clip. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32788433064.html Round metal item located at the bottom of the fuel filter body is also held in position with an o-ring. Just needs a bit of leverage to come loose. It would be nice to say that everything worked the first time. However, not the case. Big learning is to check that you have no parts left on your work area. I had forgotten to reclip a bottom retaining cover under the fuel pump and which also retains that abovementioned round metal item which I had to fish out of the fuel tank. Fortunately, everything is working and engine is able to idle and accelerate nicely. Something that I noticed the next day is that the engine is now idling lower by about 100 rpm. The fuel sender unit is working showing fuel level at the expected half level. Next test will be to refuel the car and check the indicated fuel level. Overall, this is a task which can be done in 2-3 hours. With a lot better preparation, you should be able to reduce that to 1-2 hours. I will post some pictures later and possibly some links to worthwhile YouTube videos.
  2. Hey guys just wondering if anyone knows the location of the fuel filter on a 2012 v6 Kluger. Can't seem to find it under the hood. Car is blowing a bit of smoke and I think I've got dirty fuel and need to change the filter. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hey guys I brought my car to the mechanic last week, he changed the oil, air, fuel filter. My car is a 2009 ZVW30R Prius, it is currently on 83,000km. However, yesterday the malfunction indicator light is on. I brought it to the mechanic again , he says he might have change the wrong type of fuel filter or he said he might put the old fuel filter in to keep the car going.However, he already charged me $450 for fuel filter change last week. I wonder if 2009 prius needs fuel filter change ? Is there a specific type of fuel filter that the car could only use ?
  4. Hi Guys, My 2008 KX-S requires it's 80k service and was gobsmacked by the price (~$1150 toyota / ~$850 Ultratune), the bulk of which I think is the cost of replacing the in tank fuel filter which is time intensive. Was considering not doing this part of the service. Do I really need to do this or is it another case of profiteering for the industry. Anyone had any fuel filter issues? Cheers, b
  5. Hello there, newbie here. I have an excellent 1996 Hiace (ex Telstra) 2.4 petrol efi that generally drives very well. I could not find out about its history, but with 260,000 on the clock and the oil always very clean (never goes dark black), I wondered if it was a recon engine or just good Telstra maintenance. Anyway, several months ago, there was a bit of a stutter, when accelerating after slowing down for a roundabout for instance and going up some hills in 2nd or 3rd gear. If you back off on the accelerator, the problem gets better. A mechanic said it sounded like plugs so we put some new ones in and it helped a bit. But lately it has got worse again and I wondering what it could be. I originally said to the mechanic that it felt like fuel feed or something like that. So these are the possibilities I am speculating about: 1. Fuel feed/fuel injection system. 2. Spark plugs and/or plug leads. 3. Cam belt - have no idea when it was last done - no history on the car. 4. Fuel filter. I get a consistent 8.3 kms per litre with this car since owning it for 4 months - with aircon on or off - does not seem to impact on fuel consumption. I have had other Toyota vans though and I am sure from memory that they ran alot leaner, around 10k's/litre. One other query, can anyone recommend the best place for reasonably priced spares on the Sunshine Coast, Qld. And a good mechanic for Hiaces? Thanks for your attention!
  6. Hi there :D I was wondering if you'll can help me out a little here. How can I replace the following (most safe and efficient way): 1. Oil filter 2. Air filter 3. Fuel filter Perhaps if you could give me a run down step by step for each that would be great ;) I want to know the most safe and efficient methods... Thanks for your help Camrolla

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