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Hi, I'm hoping someone might be able to help me diagnose my ignition issue. I bought my van a couple of months ago, no major issues so far, until I spent last weekend driving ~600km including ~40km of unsealed corrugations. On the way home, while I'm driving on the highway again, the engine loses a bit of power and I can't get above 90km/h. First thing I checked was the air filter, pretty dusty after the weekend so I banged it out and tried again. Still no better so I try taking it out completely, still no improvement. Once I got home, I was able to check the plugs, ended up replacing them all while I was at it. Cylinder 2 looked like it had been misfiring and sure enough, no spark in that plug. Pulling off that spark lead while the engine was running made no difference, while when pulled off any of the others the engine faltered a bit. Looks like a waste-spark ignition, so I switched the leads coming out of the coil, the problem cylinder moves to 3, so that seems to confirm that the spark plugs, boots and leads are ok and the problem is the high-voltage output for plug 3 on the coil. What I'm confused about is if plugs 2 and 3 are meant to be in series for a waste-spark ignition, how can 2 still work if 3 isn't sparking? Is it that there are actually two secondary coils, one for each plug? If that's the case, is it possible that one of those coils has failed, maybe because of the corrugations? It seems like the 2,3 coil unit needs to be replaced, but I'd like to be sure because the part costs $200+. Are there any resistances that I should be checking to test the connections? Thanks for any advice!

Hi, I just bought a 2000 Toyota Celica ZR, and noticed that it has a bouncy tacho, the previous owner installed a shift light which may have something to do with it, I have taken out the shift light but the problem is still there. What else can cause a bouncy tacho and what can I do to fix it. Thanks.

My Rav4 has developed a problem where it starts, then immediately shuts off. Once it's done this, if I try cranking it again without turning the key back to the fully off position, it turns over, but never tries to fire. However, if I turn the key back to the off position, then try again, it will start just fine, but still immediately shut off. It also won't start even if I give it a little gas while trying to start it (unlike some other descriptions of similar problems that I have read). Also, when it starts, it sounds like a good clean start, it just won't idle afterwords. It did this once about a year ago, exactly like what I am describing, then half an hour later, it started fine and this hasn't happened again until a few days ago. When it happened again, it wouldn't start, then a a while later is started just fine. It also started fine the next few times I tried to start it, but it would occasionally do this (stop working, then magically start working later). Now it does it every time and I cannot get the engine to stay on. So this is something that progressively went out over the last week or so. Someone on Rav4World suggested that it might be the ignition switch and very kindly told me the pattern of continuity that I should see if the switch worked vs if it was bad (see attached picture). There does seem to be an issue with my switch, because I have no continuity between 2-3 when the switch is in the Acc or On position (and I should). However, that does not appear to be the source of the current problem. The correct continuity pattern for the car when running should be 2-3, 2-4, and 6-7 (see attached figure). The engine starts via a connection from 7-8. Therefore, to bypass the switch, I took the female end of the plug that connects to the ignition switch, unhooked from the switch, and ran a wire from 2-3, from 2-4, and from 6-7 (thus creating the connectivity for the On position). Then, I hooked the battery back up and quickly touched a wire from 7-8. The car started, but it immediately shut back off, just like before. Further, one of the oddities about this problem is that once the engine shuts off, I have to turn they key back to the off position before it will fire again (otherwise it just keeps turning over but never firing). So, while I had the wires rigged up I played with this. As expected, if I connect 7-8 getting it to fire and stall, then immediately reconnect 7-8, it turns over, but doesn't fire (just like trying to turn the key again without first going to the off position). I tried to figure out which circuit needed to be broken for it to reset and let the engine fire again, and its the 6-7 connection. If I start/stall it then unplug and replug 2-3 or 2-4 and try it again, it turns over, but won't fire. However, if I unplug and replug 6-7 and try again, it starts then quits (just like if I had turned the key to off, then tried again). This makes me think that whatever is wrong is on the circuit for 6-7. Does anyone know what is on that circuit that could cause this? Just for reference, here are some other things I've tried: Checked spark plugs and wires (they were replaced fairly recently, and all seem to be in good shape, correctly gauged, etc.) Checked for vacuum leaks (I did this one of the times that I got it running). Cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve Replaced the fuel filter Tried starting it with the MAP sensor disconnected (98's don't have an MAF) Tried starting it with the green coolant temperature sensor disconnected (it really didn't like that at all). Note: this is a cross post from Rav4World, and everything there has been and is continuing to be very helpful, but so far no solutions have emerged, so I thought I'd expand the collective brain pool a bit. Thanks I'm at my wits end here, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

G'day, Just picked up an Avalon MkIII GXi. I own 4 Fords, but worked around Avalons 2001-2006 at a taxi depot, so always had a soft spot for them etc. Have an interesting starting issue with a workaround I found. Has anyone ever heard of issues with the ignition switch on these? Igniter? Crank angle sensor? Knock sensors? It has had aftermarket keys for 5 years now. The light goes off instantly upon insertion indicating it has been programmed as a master. Now, it will just crank endlessly often. The workaround is to leave the ignition 'ON' for 5 minutes and then it starts no worries until the next time. Any ideas?

I recently built a battery box for the back of my 2012 Kluger kxr. It has a projecta Dc-Dc charger which needs an ignition signal to tell it when the car is running for the best charging. Does anyone know the best (easiest) place to pull an ignition signal from?

Hello all, I need your help with some info. Those of you that have the TRD Supercharged Aurions, can you please tell me two things? ... 1) What are your air/fuel ratios above 5000rpm to redline? and 2) What is your ignition advance from 5000rpm to redline? Any help with this information would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Hi, Thought i would upload a recent issue i had with my 1993 ST184 Celica, 5S-FE Engine, 2.2lt. I bought this vehicle second hand 18 months ago (Aug 2014), very good condition and only 160000km on it. After buying it, i wanted to fix up some minor things on the vehicle, so i put a new clutch in (the old one was right near end of life), i replaced some Sensors, Air-con regas, rear liftback struts, relays, egr module, and odd and bobs. I put a new distributor in , with new leads, plugs etc, and serviced the vehicle. I seemed to always have a bit of an issue with rough idle, and it also does not have the power and pick up that my last ST184 had. Hoping my booked in Full service/throttle body clean, EGR clean/replace might get her running smooth again, and responsive , as some times it lags and then kicks in with correct power. Anyway, the main reason for this post was because i ran into a problem recently over the last 5 weeks or so (Early 2016)...that honestly defeated me for the first time, and had to have it taken to a mechanic. Symptoms: Rough Idle (pretty sure due to major service it needs) Intermittent Starting (sometimes it would start fine sometimes after a few goes also, once or twice i sprayed ether fluid in the intake and that also worked a few time.s) Car cranked fine, battery is pretty new...just would not go at all in the end Eventually one morning , i got in the car to go to work, and no start at all. Diagnostics: This had me stumped, i had limited tooling etc for Diagnoisis Checked for loose wires, one day i would have spark, in the end i had none. Fuel Pump works. Relays are Good Distributor was near new, leads and plugs also I was leaning toward Ingniter (Ignition Module) OR the ECU itself (after advice from an experienced mechanic) I promptly secured a used Igniter and ECU Independently swapped these out, in both combinations (one at a time with currently installed units, then both parts together...all resulting in stil NO Start) Due to my Job taking up so much time, and i live remotely from much help, i ended up having it towed to a workshop. Long story short, the ignition system, ECU, Distributor, Igniter, Fuel delivery, Ignition Switch.........ALL were just fine!! What it turned out to be, was the two Plugs that plug onto the Distributor were "BAD" on the inside, they looked ok from a visual inpsection, the wires weren't loose or coming out. So $34 worth of plugs, splice into wiring harness, and away she goes again like normal. Summary: If you have limited diagnostic tooling, or spare components to swap out for fault finding. Highly recommend really checking your electrical connectors and wiring for chaffing, loose, broken wires....and in my case (not sure i would have found it after hours of frustration) check your connectors. Especially in my case where i ended up with no spark at all, even though it was mostly ok for 5 weeks aside for intermittent starting, in the end it just died. All it was , were the two plugs that go onto the sides of the Dizzy. I think one is the Crank Angle Sensor (or similar - as it's inside the Dizzy & the other is the Coil Plug) So i sure hope this helps someone out, as my car was off road for 11 days, while i was trying to figure this out, spent $360 on parts i did not need, when all it was were two electrical plugs worth $34

Hello my wife's car recently wouldn't start. After driving it for a few hours in the afternoon we came home, then 20mins later went to go out and the car wouldn't turn over. At first it seemed like a flat battery; no interior lights, dash lights wouldn't come on etc. Strange thing is after a few seconds or so the dash would come on and so would the interior lights, though the headlights don't work. I go to crank it over after I wait for the dash to illuminate and when I turn the key the dash goes black similar to when you have a dead battery and a clicking noise comes from the ECU. I release the key and the dash lights back up after a second or two and then the lights kind of flicker for a bit. I've checked the voltage on the battery and cleaned the terminals. Next thing i'm looking to do is try check over the ignition fuses and then look to jump start the engine If you have any ideas or help please that would be great, even just a some direction as to where to look next. Thankyou

Has anyone fitted a Portman turbo timer to a late model (mine is 2012) SR5 Hilux 4x4, I am trying to find the correct wires to connect to, it says to connect the Red wire to the Main 12 volt lead at the harness (Target wire registers voltage at all times) I've found 2 that fit that description, a black with red stripe and a white with red stripe. Connect the Blue wire to switched wire at the harness (target wire registers voltage when ignition key is turned to the ON position AND the START position) this would be the Blue / Red Wire. Connect the Yellow wire to switched wire at the harness (target wire registers voltage when ignition key is turned to the ON position ONLY when turned to the Start position the target wire registers Zero voltage) I cant find this wire at all??? ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Hey guys, I recently purchased my 1991 celica sx liftback, 5spd manual 2.2L 5sfe for $500. Im currently in the progress of fixing it up to my standards, but I have discovered the ignition leads in it are in bad shape. Im in need of new leads and all the local parts dealers want $130-$200 for the leads for my car, currently I have circular top leads and my car is also distrubutor for anyone wondering, will it matter if I buy leads that have square top plugs or do I have to get circular top plugs?

Hi, I blew the radio, mirrors, cigarette lighter fuse and replaced it, all working again but while they all used to work with the ignition off, now they only work with it on. This is mainly annoying because my after-market radio now loses all its pre-sets whenever I turn the ignition off. What gives?

Hey I am having troubles with my car, I broke down the other day and it seemed like my timing belt had snapped. I did a full timing kit on the car so that there would be no problems. Once everything was fully installed i fired her up and she started first time. she ran well untill i went to take a test drive as soon as i took off she broke down again. i went through the timing kit and there was no problem. I ran a plug test and found out that there is no spark coming from my spark plugs. i tested the wiring harnes going to the distributer and there is power to the distributer but nothing to the plugs. i have heard some mention to there being an issue with the fuel pump however there is no problem with the fuel pump. does any one have any ideas. Thanks P.S the engin is a 5f-se