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Found 9 results

  1. Hi, My Aurion 08 has developed a leak on the passenger side. It may have been going for a while as I did notice some mouldy smell a few months ago, but perhaps it's worse with of all the rain NSW sent over to WA recently. Anyway, I have tested with a squirt water bottle many times and it's definitely NOT the windscreen, but it leaks when I get the water squirted just below the bottom left of the windscreen. It's hard to see where it's coming in from the inside as I can only get so far up the left hand side of the firewall under the glove box. Anyone else? Any ideas? Any help appreciated.
  2. Hi all, This will be my first post on the forum, so bare with me. I have searched more threads than I can count related to this, on here and other forums. If the questions I am about to ask are already posted and answered here, I do apologize, I could not find them. OK! Lets begin! I have a 1994 MK4 Supra NA-T. so consider it an NA for the purposes of this. I had a rear ender the other month, purely cosmetic damage, and this was all repaired and I picked up the car and drove it for a full 3 days without any issues. Then the other day I was driving and as I stopped at the lights my idle was jumping between roughly 250-300 and 900 (car normally idles at 850). Car would stall from time to time when braking and stopping at the lights due to the revs dropping so low. I have been troubleshooting this for the past week. Initially I read that a dead battery can cause the CPU to have issues, and my battery was dead and needed to be replaced just before the accident (got rear ended on way to get new battery), so the car was sitting in the workshop with a dead battery for about a month. I will list the things I have tried and lets see how we go... - Changed spark plugs (needed changing anyway) - Changed spark leads (NA has the distributor and leads) - Found a bunch of leaks from my intercooler joiners (realigned everything and got rid of the leaks) - Checked for vacuum leaks (couldn't find any additional ones) - Reset the ECU - Checked timing belt marks (no tooth has been missed, timing is in correct position) - Adjusted TPS (changed the idle higher and lower but was still hunting from very low to around the 1000 mark) - Cleaned throttle body Lastly, and my suspected culprit. I noticed there was little to no difference in idle when I disconnected the IAC while the car idled. After more hours than I would like to admit getting the IAC off due to the screws being super soft and just rounding, I finally got it off, cleaned it as best I could, and cleaned the throttle body. The IAC gasket looks to be in good shape. I have tested the voltage of the IAC, which turned out fine, and the resistance of the connector which came up at 22.5 ohms across all pins (not sure what standard is meant to be, couldn't find it in TSRM) I read that on all cars the IAC is meant to push out and in with the ignition switch on and off. So I tested this while I had it plugged in but not bolted into the throttle body, and it did not move in or out. I then created a vacuum leak and started the car, and the IAC did move out and back in when the car was turned off. I am not sure if this indicates that it is working correctly since it moved, or if it is still not working correctly as it did nothing with the ignition on and off... This is pretty much where I am at, and would like some ideas or opinions on whether to replace this IAC, or test some other things on the car first. This is my first time ever looking at an IAC and I want to make 100% certain it needs replacing and is the likely the cause before spending more money. Currently as it stands, the car seems to be idling a little better, possibly due to one of the other things I did, but it still idles rough. Dipping between 600 and 1000, before stabilizing around 950. If I blip the throttle the dip gets worse and then it seems that the ECU tries its best to stabilize it again around 950, constantly moving up of down by 100rpm or so. The other day the car would start and stall almost immediately when the IAC was plugged in, and then start normally when I unplugged it, so I am not sure if its working intermittently or that was a one-off as it hasn't done that again since. Thanks in advance for any help, and sorry about the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible as I have run out of ideas. Attaching pictured of my IAC. Part No. 22270-46050
  3. Hi I have a 1998 Camry sedan. Often after rain when I open the boot water comes from the tail light on the boot. I have sealed the whole area with silicon sealant, but still water gets in. I would appreciate help! Thanks David
  4. Hi all, Bit of a long story... I have owned this car for around 6 years and generally been pretty happy with it. However, around 12-14 months ago I began to get random warning lights coming up - mainly the engine and VSC (orange ones). They might come up a couple of times in a week, and then not again for months. Anyway - I have taken the car to Toyota dealers 6 or 7 times to chase up these errors, not including regular services - and basically got the same response each time: "Yeah we saw some error codes, couldn't find any problems during testing, cleared the codes, you're right to go". Then, about a month ago, I was finding the car would sometimes have a lag in engaging drive. The engine would rev and it would suddenly clunk into gear a couple of seconds later. So Toyota said this was beginning to sound like a transmission problems - and I should start by flushing and replacing the transmission fluid, which I paid around $200 to do. Then yesterday the engine starts making a horrible clattering sound. I was close to home and noticed it was leaking red fluid. I was fairly sure this was transmission fluid. Wasn't sure if I should drive the 5 or 6km to Toyota, but did anyway. Toyota are now saying this latest problem is nothing to do with transmission, it's leaking engine oil from a burst line, will be approximately $600 to repair - and they're not even sure if the engine is ok - because it did lose almost all of the oil. I have seen posts here and other stuff online about the V6 engine oil line and failures. But does this sound right to people?? I take obsessive care of the car. It has done 160,000km - but has cost me well over $1000 this year in servicing and repairs. Was hoping to get at least a couple more years out of it but I'm starting to wonder... Plus I was sold on the fact that Toyota keep comprehensive service records of the car, since before I owned it, which might avoid these sorts of issues coming up.
  5. Hi guys, I've noticed my Sportivo has left a small spot of red/pink fluid on the garage floor. As it was located at the front drivers side I'm presuming it is power steering fluid. Has anyone else experienced this type of leak on their Sportivo? Would it be best to take it to a dealer or can anyone recommend a professional mechanic in Sydney who knows what they are doing and uses genuine parts? Thanks in advance :)
  6. Hi Guys, Had a major oil leak last Friday, basically I just got onto the freeway and the low engine oil pressure light came up on the dash. Pulled up immediately on the breakdown lane, and looked underneath the car. There was a leak evident, and looks like the leak occurred at speed as there was a fair bit spread underneath the car and splatter near the rear diffiuser. Anyways, I got the car towed to my local dealership, and just today they have found the oil leak - a pinhole leak on a oil pipe. I queried whether this was a VVTi Oil Pipe as i'm aware of the issue of VVTi recall and updated pipe available, however they have said it is a different oil pipe. I do recall when purchasing the car second hand the dealer told me the VVTi updated pipe replacement has been carried out. Furthermore, when I checked underneath the bonnet there was no smoke, or burning oil smell (which I would expect if it was VVTi hose close to the engine) - They want to charge me $140 for the oil pipe, and 1.5hrs worth of labour for the install. WORST thing is the pipe is not available in the country, and I have to wait 14 working days for them to bring it in! Does this sound right? - I also asked them about carrying out 120,000km service after the repair (as it has already done 117,000km already) and they wanted to charge me $490 for the service. Most dealers I called were charging $345. They lady said it was because of the brake fluid replacement, though this fluid is only 500ml, and is less than $20 at Supercheap. The reason why I want to do this service as they will need to top up the oil as most has leaked away. I think they're trying to stitch me up big time. Thoughts? - Lastly, will there be any issues with storing the vehicle whilst waiting for parts (14 working days..), with little or no engine oil? With summer well on its way, I have some concerns... Any thoughts/advice/recommendations or insights highly appreciated. TheDrake
  7. It's been a while since I've been on (literally have had no time for many months)... but had a fairly catastrophic failure of the water pump this morning with zero warning at any time previously! Had the car serviced on it's usual schedule about 3 months ago - the 90,000 km major service. No leaks reported, no abnormal noises, no cooling issues found. Back on the 50,000 km service during my usual fluid checks, I had however noticed a sudden drop in the coolant reserve reservoir; but at the service shortly after I found that - neither Toyota nor myself could find any sign of a leak, so we put it down to possibly air pocket in the coolant system that had suddenly cleared out. Yesterday I came back from a trip from Phillip Island, only approximately 2 hours drive from Melbourne of mostly freeway driving, and no issues at all. No cooling issues, no leaks, no noises. I started the car this morning, and was immediately greated with a very loud and consistent squealing noise, which lasted approximately 3 minutes before completely disappearing as the car warmed. I tracked it down to the area on the front end of the engine; and seemed to be one of the pulleys. I couldn't see any wobbling pulleys or any indication of leaks (there was no sign at all, no water under the car etc.) - and given the heavy rain yesterday afternoon, I figured it was just water on the belt that was making it slip. The coolant reservoir was also at its normal level, middle. I drove off to do my grocery shopping (about half an hour after a 20 minute drive), and came back to find the car resting in a pool of pink coolant approximately 1m wide Overflow reservoir was almost empty now, and when I shone a torch down the side to the water pump pulley, there was clear signs of coolant everywhere on the splash guard along with oily white residue splattered up on the side of the induction box... As there was still coolant in the system, I jacked up the heater to max, and turned on the aircon to force the fans on the radiator on; and carefully made my way to the nearest car shop to get some coolant. By the time I made it to the car shop, while the car was idling I checked under the bonnet again to see the condition, and to my alarm the water pump pulley was wobbling around erratically and gushing coolant from behind. By this point, the coolant reservoir is completely empty. I topped up the reservoir and let the car idle for a couple of minute while it sucked in the coolant, during which time I had to top it up again twice (it was obviously leaking heavily while driving, despite me keeping it under 2k RPM). So I limped it back to the nearest Toyota dealer, where it is currently waiting on the street until they open tomorrow and I can get it inspected. I had to top up the coolant 3 times in the 15 minute drive there... so it is a very serious leak for certain. What I am wondering (sorry about the long story!), has anybody else had the water pump fail at only 95,000 km? And if not, how long should it typically last? My suspicion is Toyota overtightened the belt at last service, which buggered the bearing and thus broke the water seal (I hope there is no oil seal connected to the timing chain too? I forgot to check the oil colour under the cap for signs of moisture). It has been about 6000km since the service, and a heavily overtightened belt I can see causing a bearing failure in that time... as I have had this experience in the past with other cars. I really, really don't want to be spending $1k or whatever it may cost to fix the pump if it is Toyota's service dept who caused the premature failure...
  8. Hi, Can anyone perhaps help with a picture and exploded view of a Hilux 2008 sideshaft? I think Toyota garage fitted the wheelbearing the wrong way around when they replaced it. Judging by the damage to the tone wheel and axle seal and apparent clumsy workmanship, I think they may have reversed the new bearing so that the oil seal does not run right on the retainer ring. Its difficult to measure distances so I am hoping for an exploded view picture of which way the bearing should be fitted - one side has a "lip" which impacts on position. By the way, can anyone recommend a website without downloading funny software to buy a good workshop manual on-line? Thanks!
  9. Hi everyone. I have owned my 1991 celica ST for 2 years and planned to sell it soon. Yesterday, the power steering failed. Turning the wheel caused a grating noise and soon enough the car had no power steering. No ps fluid in it's tank so I refilled it to max. After 15 minutes driving to work, fluid level was zero. Obviously it's a major leak. After doing some reading online, it looks like it will cost over $400 to replace the power steering pump. I'm not keen to spend that kind of money and am hoping to find a way to continue to drive the car with no power steering (for about a month until I can afford a new car). I will likely end up taking it to a wreckers due to 800$ in other costs to get RWC. It's in perfect cosmetic condition w recent black paint and only 140,000 ks. Real shame. Anyway what I need to know is, should I remove the power steering pump if I'm to continue driving the car? I don't want to cause damage to the ps rack or any other mechanical issues. I only intend to drive the car <3 km distances to work & for groceries. Anybody with mechanical know-how able to give advice? Thanks