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Found 32 results

  1. Hi Everyone, Now that my RAV4.3 is out of warranty I've been working on a project. I've replaced the Instrument Cluster, Spiral Cable and Steering Wheel with units stripped straight from a UK based model. The image below is how it is currently looking. I̶ ̶h̶a̶d̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶r̶e̶w̶i̶r̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶C̶l̶u̶s̶t̶e̶r̶ ̶h̶a̶r̶n̶e̶s̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶a̶k̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶u̶n̶i̶t̶,̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶e̶v̶e̶n̶t̶u̶a̶l̶l̶y̶ ̶g̶o̶t̶ ̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶e̶a̶t̶u̶r̶e̶s̶ ̶w̶o̶r̶k̶i̶n̶g̶.̶ Appears I only had to do this because at the time I had a manual cluster fitted to an automatic car. When I eventually got the automatic cluster I had to undo all the changes I'd made. Don't **** it up like I did, just get the correct cluster first time around. The differences over the old AU cluster are; Average Consumption Instant Consumption Average Speed Range Now while the cluster has a DISP button for cycling the features, I've been working on wiring the DISP button on the steering wheel to also do that function. The standard RAV4 AU's wiring harness does not have the necessary wiring to support this feature. I was able to obtain the Instrument Clusters wiring diagram and determine that Pin 18 is where the absent cable should be on the Cluster side.... What I wasn't able to figure out is what pin on the spiral cable / clock spring side is required to be connected. Does anyone have any details regarding Toyota's clock springs and their standard for wiring? Somebody suggested that pinout for the Spiral cable is the same as the kluger. I'm not sure if that is correct, nor have I been able to find any wiring diagrams regarding that clock spring either.
  2. Hey guys Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with dealing with Toyota for a post warranty claim? My Rav4 2013 had a fuel injector die in April and Toyota called this a ‘rare anomaly’. It cost me $1200 to fix. Now, 7 months later, another injector has broken down! According to my research, injectors are supposed to last a lot longer than 80,000kms (at least 200,000), so I took this up with the Toyota dealership. They took a week to get back to me and dismissed it as an out of warranty issue. Frustrated, I took my complaint higher (through their “Guest Experience” centre) and they are currently re-investigating the case...Though no promises of a positive outcome. Three weeks with no car later (and very little communication from Toyota!) is really starting to affect my opinion of the company. I’ve always raved about Toyota to my friends. In fact, I’ve had 4 Toyotas in a row, all through a Toyota dealership.. and I’ve always serviced through Toyota. I feel an onus is on them to financially come to the party, and acknowledge their product is not up to scratch. I would not be complaining if I didn’t feel this was unfair . Fingers crossed they’ll do the right thing. Otherwise I’ll not be buying another Toyota again.
  3. Hi, I would like to change my spark plug but have several questions: which spark wench to I need 16mm or higher? Some site and my Manual says Denso SK20R11, but when I check on amazon it says that this will not fit my RAV4 2010 model. Now I am confused. Any ideas?
  4. Please watch and listen to the video I have posted. Can someone please tell me what the hell this could be? It’s been doing it for over a year and no mechanic seems to know what it is, I don’t have the money to just leave at the mechanics so they can stuff around for days trying to find the issue :( 36D6F926-843A-4C5D-85A4-7D3D32AAB954.MOV
  5. Hi Gurus, I’ve noticed a small rattle with my 2014 RAV4 Diesel manual with 21k kms on the clock. I first heard the ‘rattle’ when in neutral whent the clutch is engaged. When I press the clutch in the rattle disappears. The car drives normally with smooth gear changes and no noticed difference in the clutch pedal feedback/pressure. Having noticed it, I hear the rattle throughout the gears although its hard to hear clearly due to the diesel motor sound and road noise. I did stall the car last week at low speed and I think I’m just being paranoid but I can’t remember the noise being there before. I only really noticed it a couple of days ago. I read about throwbearings or clutch springs being loose making rattle sounds but I suppose it could be something else entirely. I’ll take it into Toyota this week if I an but I’d like some expert knowledge in case they tell me to replace the clutch! Thanks in advance! Pete
  6. My Rav4 has developed a problem where it starts, then immediately shuts off. Once it's done this, if I try cranking it again without turning the key back to the fully off position, it turns over, but never tries to fire. However, if I turn the key back to the off position, then try again, it will start just fine, but still immediately shut off. It also won't start even if I give it a little gas while trying to start it (unlike some other descriptions of similar problems that I have read). Also, when it starts, it sounds like a good clean start, it just won't idle afterwords. It did this once about a year ago, exactly like what I am describing, then half an hour later, it started fine and this hasn't happened again until a few days ago. When it happened again, it wouldn't start, then a a while later is started just fine. It also started fine the next few times I tried to start it, but it would occasionally do this (stop working, then magically start working later). Now it does it every time and I cannot get the engine to stay on. So this is something that progressively went out over the last week or so. Someone on Rav4World suggested that it might be the ignition switch and very kindly told me the pattern of continuity that I should see if the switch worked vs if it was bad (see attached picture). There does seem to be an issue with my switch, because I have no continuity between 2-3 when the switch is in the Acc or On position (and I should). However, that does not appear to be the source of the current problem. The correct continuity pattern for the car when running should be 2-3, 2-4, and 6-7 (see attached figure). The engine starts via a connection from 7-8. Therefore, to bypass the switch, I took the female end of the plug that connects to the ignition switch, unhooked from the switch, and ran a wire from 2-3, from 2-4, and from 6-7 (thus creating the connectivity for the On position). Then, I hooked the battery back up and quickly touched a wire from 7-8. The car started, but it immediately shut back off, just like before. Further, one of the oddities about this problem is that once the engine shuts off, I have to turn they key back to the off position before it will fire again (otherwise it just keeps turning over but never firing). So, while I had the wires rigged up I played with this. As expected, if I connect 7-8 getting it to fire and stall, then immediately reconnect 7-8, it turns over, but doesn't fire (just like trying to turn the key again without first going to the off position). I tried to figure out which circuit needed to be broken for it to reset and let the engine fire again, and its the 6-7 connection. If I start/stall it then unplug and replug 2-3 or 2-4 and try it again, it turns over, but won't fire. However, if I unplug and replug 6-7 and try again, it starts then quits (just like if I had turned the key to off, then tried again). This makes me think that whatever is wrong is on the circuit for 6-7. Does anyone know what is on that circuit that could cause this? Just for reference, here are some other things I've tried: Checked spark plugs and wires (they were replaced fairly recently, and all seem to be in good shape, correctly gauged, etc.) Checked for vacuum leaks (I did this one of the times that I got it running). Cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve Replaced the fuel filter Tried starting it with the MAP sensor disconnected (98's don't have an MAF) Tried starting it with the green coolant temperature sensor disconnected (it really didn't like that at all). Note: this is a cross post from Rav4World, and everything there has been and is continuing to be very helpful, but so far no solutions have emerged, so I thought I'd expand the collective brain pool a bit. Thanks I'm at my wits end here, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  7. Hi all, I've recently joined the RAV4 world by buying a 2006 model with the 2AZ engine. It's in generally good shape, but the pulley tensioner makes a little noise and the water pump shows signs of leaking (although the coolant level hasn't visibly dropped in the 1500km I've driven it so far). So it makes sense to replace them both at the same time. Looking at replacement parts for the pulley tensioner, there seems to be a fair price difference between the cheap ebay options (around $60) the brand name options like Gates and Dayco (around $250) and the genuine option (around $300). Repco also have a 35% off sale this weekend so I might investigate the repco options too. Has anyone had any experience with the above options? I know that the pulley tensioners are a cause of trouble so the genuine ones might not be the best - would the Dayco or gates ones be better? Or are the cheapies OK? Regarding coolant pumps, anyone have suggestions on brands? I've had bad luck with Gates in the past where both times I've used them they've failed (one was machined incorrectly and wouldn't mount properly, the other only lasted a couple weeks before the impeller sheared off).
  8. Hi guys, I drive a 2007 Rav4. Sadly, I have never taken her to the limit; she's been a princess since the moment I bought her. So as soon as I sort out this stupid radio, it's time to start the muck running! The more the merrier.
  9. HI guys, i have a 2006 CV rav 4 with 74k and with a shocking fuel economy of 14L/100k. I was wondering whether anyone has ever converted their petrol rav 4 into LPG in Victoria, if so how much did it cost. And also how much are you saving from doing this, and whether there are high service cost with the gas conversion. thanks.
  10. My 2013 RAV 4 SD card seems to have been corrupted or wiped after a flat battery and battery change. The card is not readable when plugged in to a computer. The head unit display indicated that it was not able to read the SD card or program. Now it's asking for the pin code but is frozen on the code screen and does not allow any selections to be made. Please help!
  11. Hey guys My front speakers are sounding pretty crap and I want to replace them. I checked crutchfield and it says the size is 6 1/2", but I read somewhere that the size in the Aussie version of the car is smaller. I don't really want to have to fit an adapter so I just want to buy the correct size first go. Thanks!!
  12. Hello, I'm new here and I'm hoping you can help me. My Rav4 (1997) has this problem. Wednesday morning, like clockwork my R4, started first time. I did a bit of shopping with multiple starts and stops of the engine. Then in the afternoon, I tried to start it, and just wouldn't start. I left it for a while, tried it again and after a lot of turning of the engine, it started. I left it to idle for 5 minutes. Initially it was a little rough, but then it cleared, and idled smoothly. Also reving the engine was fine to. So I stopped the engine and tried restarting it. Again it wouldn't start. I went to bed, and next morning tried to start it, again after a bit of turning it started, a little rough, but smoothed out. I left it idling for 15 minutes. Then I turned it off and tried to restart it, and it wouldn't restart. Later this afternoon I tried again, thinking once I got it started, I would drive it around, vbut as soon as I put it in gear, it died again. It has half a tank of fuel, plenty of oil, coolant and I maintain everything about the car, every odd noise is investigated and if possible rectified ASAP. But this time the symptoms have hot me stumped. It can be the immobilizer, as the car does start. All I can think of of some sort of contaminant in the fuel blocking the intake, but that doesn't fit the symptoms either. Thank you in advance. Bee
  13. Hello Everyone, I have an automatic 2000 Toyota RAV4 Edge and I'm trying to figure out exactly what type of factory stereo I have in my car. I've found a couple of different types of stereos that can go with my RAV4, on this website, but none of them matches how mine looks like. Which is like this: I intend to research what options I may have for installing an AUX input socket at a later stage, but for now, I'd want to know exactly what my setup looks like. Does anyone have the same type of stereo in their car? If so, have you been able to identify them and/or have you happened to take a photo of their back? :) Cheers, Istvan UPDATE: Sorry for the 90 degrees rotated photo. TinyPic did this for some reason. It wasn't like that on my computer.
  14. Hi fellow members, Does anyone have success in using the navigation part of Toyota Link? I am able to select a destination in Toyota Link via my phone, and I can send it to the vehicle, and the vehicle receives the destination, and it can be seen in a small scaled map with the address shown in text, but there seems no way to get the system to actually direct you to the selected location? I believe that it should be able to do that? any help would be great. Perthite
  15. Hi, I was just wondering if anyone knew the correct paint code for the 98 world cup series rav4. Is it 8K5: Dark Blue Pearl or, 8L5: Royal Sapphire Pearl? The paint code (KA4) written on the metal plate located under the bonnet is not a correct code. Came with no owners manual. Was wanting to touch up some paint scratches. Thanks in advance.
  16. Hi members, I have a 1998 White RAV4 that I love. :) Trying to match body parts, my colour code is (white ) - 041. I have found parts in white - A23... I cant find info on either of these codes anywhere...can anyone help? Will A23 white parts be a close enough match for my 041 white RAV?
  17. Hi all - anyone with a Rav4 from 2001-2003 ever experienced problems with gears changing at random? This is a problem with the computer (ECU or ECM) that is sending the wrong message to the transmission and it changes into the wrong gear without warning. This is known as 'harsh shift' problem: http://www.rav4repair.com/documents/TSB0156.pdf If you have this problem, or had it, it is really important that you report it to the Department of Infrastructure and Regional Development ASAP: https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/complaints_recalls/form_submission.aspx They investigate products that have safety issues and will inform the ACCC if a recall is necessary. A recall will not happen unless there are reports of the product failure and safety concerns through the Department of Infrastructure. I am looking at the possibility of starting a class action for a recall because this is a factory fault that is putting Rav4 drivers in danger. It is well documented and well understood by Toyota. These are the most common symptoms: Erratic Shifting.Transmission slips in any gear, but mostly from second to third gear.Starting in 3rd gear and shifting erratically or not shifting at all.Hesitation when engaging in any of the gears.Rattling noise coming from the front area when the engine is running.The feeling of applying the brakes by it self in occasions.False solenoid codes; P0750, P0753, P0755, P0758 and/or P1760.The codes above not always show (DTC codes). Sometimes it fails with no codes at all or no check engine light.Engages hard in reverse with a "bump" or takes time to engage.Symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes symptoms only show up when warm or when cold and sometimes symptoms do not show at all.One day it runs OK. All the symptoms magically disappear, but the next day, all or some of those symptoms are back.In many cases, fuel economy or gas mileage is lower than normal.This is a safety concern as the car can shift into a low gear without warning while you are driving at high speed or in heavy traffic. Because it is a gear change, break lights don't warn cars behind you that you are suddenly stopping or slowing down, putting you in a dangerous situation. I have also been stuck trying to cross traffic at an intersection and it has dropped into top gear and I cannot move across the intersection and out of the traffic. I have been in touch with the ACCC who are looking into the matter as there was a recall by Toyota in USA: http://www.rav4repair.com/documents/warranty.pdf If anyone is experiencing these problems or has had this fixed and you are interested in putting pressure on Toyota for a recall in Australia, please contact me. If this happens, the costs of your repairs could be reimbursed. Toyota_warranty policy bulletin.pdf
  18. Dear All, I'm in East Africa, Tanzania I bought 2013 in Dubai, but the car originates from Australia. I want to replace right hand side Headlight to OEM. The Left hand side has Daylight Running Light (DRL) but the right hand one is local one which does not have DRL. I've tried to check with Dubai Dealers, they told me they don't have in stock. PLEASE ADVICE. Thank you in Advance. BARRY
  19. Hello, I'm in East Africa, Tanzania, i have a bought 2013 Rav4 from Dubai, UAE it seems the car is from Australia, has Radio Installed similar to below but the model number is not 100184 it is 100191. it says "Program loading is necessary Please insert SD card" I dont have a sd card of the car or file for the sd card, does anyone have a clue? also i have one guy told me it will need password after inserting sd card. Please advice. Thanking you in advance.
  20. perlubie

    leaking oil

    Hello, I am a new member and need some advice on my leaking oil problem. I have just had a new head put on my 3s-fe engine as the head gasket had blown and was leaking oil. I still have the oil leak even with the new head fitted. I have oli in numbers one and two spark plug holes as well. We have had the car back to a mechanic that fitted the new head and he seems to think the camshaft gasket had gone, Any thoughts on this from anyone?
  21. As the title says I'm interested in a Celica GT4 ST165, ST185 or ST205,Caldina ST195 ST215 or ST246 ,Camry 4WD or Rav4 3door shell or Cheap car Anything with 4wd I can put my Caldina ST215 Motor in I hope someone can help
  22. Hi All, First post on the forum. I have spent a number of weeks on here prior to buying our 2010 Rav4 SX6 last weekend, so a general thanks to all members who contribute here. Im chasing a set of canvas seat covers front and back for our new vehicle, airbag compatible. As a long time toyota owner sitting on black duck canvas I was dissapointed to find that they couldnt provide for our new car. Im not a fan of micro-suede or noeprene as we hit the beach a lot. Can anybody tell me if theyve heard of such, or am I asking for the impossible? Id prefer a proper fitted set rather than the more generic sized ones available in stores, if thats my only option anyones feedback on better brands or stores to look for them is appreciated. Thanks in advance, Martin
  23. Hey guys, New to this forum. Just wanted to say that I am excited to be on here and take on everyone's info, comments and suggestions on how owning a Toyota can be fun and rewarding. Currently have a 2012 Corolla Ascent Sport (Manual) and since we loved the Corolla so much, we just recently purchased a 2014 RAV4 Cruiser Diesel (Auto). My wife and I never driven or owned a diesel, so we thought, why not, so far we are loving both cars and gotta say, we won't be getting rid of them anytime soon. Cheers everyone and thanks for having me. Fozz3d
  24. Hi, I'm a new member so I apologise if something has been posted before. I did a search but nothing turned up. Two of my OE 98 World Cup series centre caps have been stolen, and while searching for new ones I have been unable to match the set. I was wondering if anyone knew if the 1997 rav4 centre caps fit the 98 model. They're the circle caps (like a spray can lid) Not the star shaped ones with the groves that go around the wheel nuts. I've only managed to find one set on eBay for 97 model but postage if $50+ and didn't want to spend that much if they're the wrong fit. Thanks, and sorry again if this is posted where it shouldn't be.
  25. I started this post a few days ago but it seems to have disappeared. I’ve got a 2.2l diesel GXL RAV4 (built June 2013) and the speedometer reads 6klm/hr higher than the true speed as measured on two independent GPS navigators. It’s 6klm high at 60klm/hr and 80klm/hr so it appears to be an offset not a percentage error. So to travel at a true speed of 80klm/hr I need to go at a speed that shows 86klm/hr on the speedo. I know speedos are set to read higher than the true speed – I don’t know why – but this is too high. What’s the use of a speedo if it doesn’t read the correct speed? Surely these days it shouldn’t be too hard to get it right. Has anyone else noticed or is it just me? Regards Talbit