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Found 7 results

  1. Hi, Thought i would upload a recent issue i had with my 1993 ST184 Celica, 5S-FE Engine, 2.2lt. I bought this vehicle second hand 18 months ago (Aug 2014), very good condition and only 160000km on it. After buying it, i wanted to fix up some minor things on the vehicle, so i put a new clutch in (the old one was right near end of life), i replaced some Sensors, Air-con regas, rear liftback struts, relays, egr module, and odd and bobs. I put a new distributor in , with new leads, plugs etc, and serviced the vehicle. I seemed to always have a bit of an issue with rough idle, and it also does not have the power and pick up that my last ST184 had. Hoping my booked in Full service/throttle body clean, EGR clean/replace might get her running smooth again, and responsive , as some times it lags and then kicks in with correct power. Anyway, the main reason for this post was because i ran into a problem recently over the last 5 weeks or so (Early 2016)...that honestly defeated me for the first time, and had to have it taken to a mechanic. Symptoms: Rough Idle (pretty sure due to major service it needs) Intermittent Starting (sometimes it would start fine sometimes after a few goes also, once or twice i sprayed ether fluid in the intake and that also worked a few time.s) Car cranked fine, battery is pretty new...just would not go at all in the end Eventually one morning , i got in the car to go to work, and no start at all. Diagnostics: This had me stumped, i had limited tooling etc for Diagnoisis Checked for loose wires, one day i would have spark, in the end i had none. Fuel Pump works. Relays are Good Distributor was near new, leads and plugs also I was leaning toward Ingniter (Ignition Module) OR the ECU itself (after advice from an experienced mechanic) I promptly secured a used Igniter and ECU Independently swapped these out, in both combinations (one at a time with currently installed units, then both parts together...all resulting in stil NO Start) Due to my Job taking up so much time, and i live remotely from much help, i ended up having it towed to a workshop. Long story short, the ignition system, ECU, Distributor, Igniter, Fuel delivery, Ignition Switch.........ALL were just fine!! What it turned out to be, was the two Plugs that plug onto the Distributor were "BAD" on the inside, they looked ok from a visual inpsection, the wires weren't loose or coming out. So $34 worth of plugs, splice into wiring harness, and away she goes again like normal. Summary: If you have limited diagnostic tooling, or spare components to swap out for fault finding. Highly recommend really checking your electrical connectors and wiring for chaffing, loose, broken wires....and in my case (not sure i would have found it after hours of frustration) check your connectors. Especially in my case where i ended up with no spark at all, even though it was mostly ok for 5 weeks aside for intermittent starting, in the end it just died. All it was , were the two plugs that go onto the sides of the Dizzy. I think one is the Crank Angle Sensor (or similar - as it's inside the Dizzy & the other is the Coil Plug) So i sure hope this helps someone out, as my car was off road for 11 days, while i was trying to figure this out, spent $360 on parts i did not need, when all it was were two electrical plugs worth $34
  2. Hi, I drive manual Yaris 2007 (km - 120K, second owner approx 20K Km). Last two days I noticed strange knocking sound, from the front, just after the engine starts. Then all goes quiet and the engine runs smoothly. It does not happen every time at the start, and the noise varies in strength but usually it is one klang/knock. It could be bit on the left side (from driver's seat). I am worried that something sudden and terrible will happen and I might kill the engine on the way to a mechanic. Did anyone ever encountered anything like that? Thanks ps I tried to record that noise but at this particular time it was very soft. Next recording tomorrow.
  3. Hi all, I own a trd aurion, lately i have had a problem with turning on the car. When i press the start button it turns the engine but takes about 3 seconds to ignite. This only happens when the car is cold. Can you please share your thoughts as to what it is. Thanks all
  4. UPDATE 1/11/13: all these hassle was simply caused by a dirty fuel filter only. Problem solved this morning by only replacing with a new fuel filter. This is an uncommon problem. my car is currently 115k KM, regularly serviced. when cold, in the morning, it starts fine, normal with one quick crank. Drove it around, engine warms up, went to woolies to get some stuff. Then when it's warm, engine only starts with longer cranking. sometimes only starts on the second crank attempt. the cranking is normal as when its cold. Just that the engine fires up with longer crank when warm. google around doesn't show much information. some talks about a possible going-to-be-faulty Open Circuit Relay (fuel pump relay), fuel pump wearing out, low fuel pressure, faulty spark plugs, carbon built up in combustion chamber. I figured out it couldnt be fuel pump faulty or low fuel pressure or faulty spark plugs- engine doesnt hesitate at all during normal driving and hard acceleration. idling is normal and smooth. i havent check on the plugs. as for carbon built up, might need to try putting some injector cleaner and see if there's improvement.
  5. Drove my new (old) 1987 Corolla the 700km home from Sydney today. While it was running didn't miss a beat, stoked. Stopped in for fuel and shut the engine off, when I went to start it again nothing, like nothing at all. Turn the key one click, stereo comes on, next click, fan and gauges, next one to start the car, stereo, fan etc drop out and the starter does not engage (can't even here the bendix moving at all) Interestingly also the cabin light dims, almost as if the starter motor is drawing a huge load and sucking all the juice from other parts of the car. Anyway, call NRMA, they arrive half an hour later. Test my battery, test comes back good, and was showing over 13+V He went to the car, and started it straight away without any issue, kicked over first go Oh how silly did I look and continued on my way. When I got home tried to replicate it again, but it just kicked over basically straight away without issue. Any suggestions on where to start looking? I really don't want to get caught out with this, Basically have ruled out the alternator due to it only doing this when the car has been running for some time, car started perfectly at 4am this morning first kick so the battery is definitely being charged Bad ground? Bad starter? Heat expansion making the starter work harder? Bad connection?
  6. Hi forumers... My 1996 Camry Vienta CSi takes a while to start in the mornings and then there's a shrill squeaking sound which lasts for 1-2 secs. Should I be worried?
  7. Hi all, I am new to this forum. My old HJ60 is a reliable if not a little tatty vehicle. She took me and my family half way around this awesome country and back, many years ago. I have a problem that I have been told is not uncommon in this model diesel. If I have not used the car for a couple of days, when I start her up, the oil pressure is slow to come up and the auto cut out turns the engine off. Depending on how long since the car was last used, it might take up to 4 starts before she will continue to run. This is bad because: 1) The engine is running too long without enough oil pressure and could be causing undue wear. 2) It uses a lot of battery power Does anyone know the cause of this problem and if it is fixable? PS. Generally, if I have used the car in the previous 24 hours it will start and run first time. The longer between starts, the worse it is. Cheers Graydog