Jump to content

2GR-FE VVT-i Oil Line Replacement


Basic steps to get you going should you choose to DIY.

Difficulty: Frustrating

Swear Factor: Extremely high

Notes: I would advise to NOT do this yourself unless you have small hands and A LOT of patience. Working with the 2GR in the Aurion engine bay is not the most pleasant experience.

Okay, so if you're not aware, the 2GR-FE in the Aurion (and other cars for that matter) had previously had a design fault which can lead to oil loss. The Aurion's affected are generally those that were built prior to 2009. There is quite a lot of discussion over on the Toyota Nation thread "ATTN: All 2GR-FE V6 OWNERS!!! BEWARE!!!", as well as over here in "Alert to V-6 owners - possible oil leak!".

I'll let you do the reading further into those topics as this thread is here just for reference. It has been said that the leak mainly occurs anywhere between 45k to 65k miles (72k to 104k kms). Now this part replacement would be covered under warranty, but I believe that they will only change it once the leak occurs. This in my opinion is too risky as even with a small leak, you can lose quite a bit of your oil really fast. You can see just how fast the oil comes out of a pinhole leak from this video:

If you wanted to be safe like I am, you can purchase the replacement pipe plus gaskets for around $45 and either change this yourself, or get Toyota or another mechanic to change it for you at cost.

The part numbers are:

Pipe Oil No. 2 - 15772-31030

Gasket - 90430-16012

Gasket - 90430-16016

Gasket - 90430-16017

dsc04225m.jpg

So with all that said, yesterday I purchased these parts, and today I fitted them.

The general instruction to replace the pipe itself can be seen in this PDF:

http://members.cox.n...ne_oil_drip.pdf

However, getting to it all in the first place is not the easiest thing to do while the engine is still in the car. The following is just a helper guide to give you the idea. It requires that you know how to fill in the gaps in terms of basic automotive work. If you can't figure this out, don't attempt this procedure. It's not for beginners.

So basically, you jack your car up and remove the drivers side wheel:

DSC04230.jpg

Then you need to remove/put aside the power steering pump. To do this you remove the trim at the front of the wheel arch:

DSC04236.jpg

DSC04237.jpg

Then you locate the automatic belt tensioner. Keeping a 5mm Allen key handy (or any other rod of solid metal that is 5mm), you place a 14mm spanner on the belt tensioner and apply pressure in the anti-clockwise direction. This is spring loaded and you will need a bit of pressure on the spanner. Once you have turned it, you will see that the hole at the bottom will line up with a gap in the engine block. You insert the Allen key here to lock it in place:

DSC042390.jpg

DSC04242.jpg

DSC04245.jpg

You then proceed to take the belt off the power steering pump and then unbolting it, putting it to the side to give you some room:

DSC04246.jpg

DSC04247.jpg

You should then remove the timing gear cover as shown in the PDF above. Removing this is easiest from the top of the engine using an offset ring spanner and small hands. If you don't have small hands, this step will be REALLY difficult.

DSC04251.jpg

DSC04253.jpg

DSC04254.jpg

The timing cover was another little obstacle along the way. Everything about this whole procedure had to be difficult. Some genius thought it would be a good idea to clip one part of the wiring loom to the top of the timing cover. The issue presented here is that it is near impossible to unclip the cable loom, let alone fit a pair of cutters into the engine bay up to that point to be able to cut the cable tie. On top of that, the loom is so restrictive that you can't pull the timing cover up far enough to give you easier access to the clip. After about 5-10 minutes of frustration, I finally managed to cut the cable tie.

DSC04256.jpg

Then it's out with the old, in with the new:

DSC04257.jpg

DSC04258.jpg

DSC04259.jpg

DSC04260.jpg

DSC04261.jpg

DSC04262.jpg

Afterwards, you just reverse the procedure. Changing the pipe over is pretty straight forward. It doesn't really take a genius, but it requires a lot of thought on how you will get the tools in there to remove the nuts and bolts. Everything is really cramped inside the engine bay and this is what makes it really difficult.

Would I ever try this again?

... Not for a long time.

 Share


User Feedback

Recommended Comments

 Excellent tutorial. Certainly needed the offset ring spanners especially for the 2 retaining bolts for the plastic cover and the tensioner pulley. Very frustrating especially removing the plastic cover. Forewarned by the tutorial, I used a flat bladed screwdriver to expand the hole and then push out the retaining clip for the wiring loom. After removing the belt, there are 2 retaining bolts for the power steering pump that are accessed by rotating the pump pulley. I removed the hose at the reservoir end to make it easier to locate the power steering pump. Overall, allow a full day with rest times to lower frustration levels. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Add a Comment

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership