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kirby7777

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Posts posted by kirby7777

  1. if I use recycle I have to change it to normal 2 to 3 minutes before stopping and turning the car off.

    If you do not the next time you start the car you get a real bad smell coming through the vents....

    This is what the dealer told me,

    Peter

    In my case I don't have that problem described above that necessitate switching off the recycle mode of Air cond.

  2. I was going to make this similar thread a few months ago.

    I have a one year old Kluger Grande. Right from the beginning I have been experiencing this rotten egg smell permeating the cabin from time to time.

    Initially I thought one of the kids has farted. Somehow no one admitted to it. Then I noticed that it seems to occur in certain area especially the on ram of the free way. There is some forest there so I initially thought it was related to some swamp gas or whatever.

    Later I worked out that it is related to hard to moderately hard accelation. eg going up on ram, over taking, going up a hill etc etc

    It is much worse if the vent is in "recycle" mode. With the vent opened it is not as bad but if you are going up a hill for a prolonged period you will still get the smell coming in.

    The car is in the service department the second time now.

    The first time they told me that the rotten smell is from the catalytic converter. The fume got through the tail gate. They took out the trimming and fixed some sort of plastic sheet in before reassembled the trimming. They were hoping that it would reduce the fume from coming in.

    Well, it has helped a bit BUT the bloody smelly fume still coming in if you press the accelerator hard enough or long enough.

    Been driving for 30 years and I have never experience this in any other cars. I told the service manager that leaving the vent opened is not an option. The air pollution and fume from other cars are bad on the road. It also make the air cond much less efficient.

    I have a feeling that the fume is coming through not just from the tail gate.

  3. Make copies of the Diagram from the owner's manual page 311, put it on the service booklet each time to remind them.

    Because it is official and they can't bulls*** with you.

    What do you think?

    :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

    I showed them Diagram G and a copy of page 311 in the manual and asked them which one they would use. They pick page 311. I gave the copy to them and also told them that the tyres are all marked.

    Checked after the service, it was correctly done.

    Somehow the right front tyre's outer rim was worn more. So a front and rear wheel alignment were performed. Cost $50 extra.

  4. I marked my tyres to check that they were rotated as per the owners manual diagram (all 5). I had to go back last service to get them to do it again properly.

    I found that page in the owner's manual. Page 311.

    However, the way suggested in the manual is a bit different from the Diagram G above. Which one should be used?

    Thanks.

  5. The trip computer is already out. Another underestimation compared with the GPS.

    One of my work place took me 120km according to GPS but about 3-4 km less with that of the Kluger trip computer.

    Someone said somewhere that the speedo is out but the trip computer is ok. My experience is that they are both out and underestimated. :rolleyes:

  6. Current original tyres cause underestimation of travelling speed and ALSO distance travelled. So would replacing them with a slightly larger diameter tyres helps in rectifying the problem?

    I am going print that Diagram G out in colour and mark all tyres with chalk. Then I am going to tell them I am watching them like a hawk to make sure that they do rotate them.

  7. And keep the best one as 'spare' when you need new set of types - get only 4 new types when time is up.

    :toast:

    A bit confusing here.

    I thought rotating 5 tyres is to ensure that they are almost evenly worn. This would make the set last longer. So when time come to replace the tyres, shouldn't all be replaced?

    If you then have 4 new tyres and 1 old tyre, how would doing 5 tyre rotation be possible then? Unless the next cycle is a 4 tyres rotation. :)

  8. My Kluger Grande is having its 10000 km service soon.

    Should I do a 4 tyre rotation or a 5 tyre rotation?

    For a 5 tyre rotation how should it be done?

    Should they do it this way as per Diagram G ? 5 tyre rotation or tire_rotation_fg.jpg

    Also I am keeping the tyre pressure at 38 psi. Is that satisfactory?

    Thanks.

  9. I have a Kluger Grande AWD 2008 model.

    Run on non premium unleaded petrol and tyre pressure 38psi

    What would be the most economical cruising speed? ie what is the most mileage I can get out of a litre of petrol at what speed?

    85km/hrs? 90? 95? 100?

    Thanks.

  10. I must say I don't really get it. Are you saying you want your head to be touching the headrest while driving?

    Yes, yes, yes. 99% of time the back of my head is touching the head rest while driving. It has been so as far as I have been driving and never ever have any problem/neck strain until now. <_<

  11. Yeah, it's a trap if you don't know about it - the odometer apparently reads pretty close to spot-on, but not the speedo - go figure!!!

    Cheers

    Thanks Andrew.

    Just a bit off topic if you don't mind. I would like to get some sort of GPS to verify the actually travelling speed. What sort of GPS do I need for that? Is GPS same thing as those Sat Nav that fixed to the windscreen? Would it tell you the travelling speed?

    Thanks.

  12. Just bought a 2WD KX-S , 7 seater, with tow-bar, window tinting , reverse parking sensors, cargo mats, floor mats with 6yr warrantyfor 42 K

    what do ya think ?

    tony

    That is on road cost? That seems to be a fantastic price. Which dealership did you get that from? How much would they sell a Grande?

  13. Received my Kluger Grande last weekend. :yahoo:

    Still finding my way through the various buttons and touch screen.

    Twice a week I have to drive a 120km round trip to work. One thing that I immediately notice is that the head rest is significantly tilting forward compared to other cars I have driven in the past. This forward tilt creates a significant hollow and lack of support behind the neck. As I result I just can not get my head and neck into a comfortable position despite adjusting the head rest and the back rest. As you know the head rest can be adjusted up and down and it also has a limited tilting function in the lower part of the bolster/head rest cushion.

    Adjusting the back rest backward would reduce the strain a little bit but does not eliminate it.

    I emailed the sales manager and was told that Toyota purposely does it so in order to minimise whip lash injury. He also said that he has another customer mentioning the same.

    Well, it is so annoying to me that I have to roll up part of my jumper and place it behind my neck to get a bit of neck support.

    Nearly 30 years of driving and I have never experienced something of this kind. I would rather have the risk of whip lash injury any day then having neck strained whenever I drive the car. :angry:

    Anyone of you notice this?

    What is my solution?

    Buy a secondhand (and non matching) headrest from elsewhere?

    Strap one of those neck bolster that I have seen around? They are more for passenger that want to sleep on the seat and the bolster would support their head and neck so that the head does not roll too much side way.

    Get the wife to fashion a small bolster for me to place behind the neck whenever I need to?

    Thanks.

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