Mintos

LOL ....... hows the skywhine Kai ?

Hey Bill :D

The Kailine is doing well mang, although I do concur with the chronic whining of the standard turbo. Next job after the 100k service is a brake overhaul then something around the area of a nice 600hp turbo will be slapped on :) But this is why the Skyline is awesome, because you don't have to go all out to get the performance.

Oh and of course as always I am vigilantly evading the random (import targeted) defect stations... it is becoming a real issue owning a nice car these days, as the boys in blue make you feel like a criminal for driving one

We are all awaiting the next stage on your car too mate, don't leave the people waiting... oooorrrr you could just admitt that you have pretty much done all that you can with FWD and are moving to a better platform :P

The turbo is perfect for the 1.8 with my manifold, instant boost that doesn't taper off at all from 2000rpm to redline ;-)

No plans for a built motor at this stage as 1zz long motors are only $600-700, we already have a spare which was used for the manifold fabrication etc.

Having a well powered Suby I would have thought you understand the point of a turbo by now JP... instant, random, tyre frying horsepower. Who cares if it comes on at 2k? The difference a turbo makes to overall engine output is exponential, they don't start making any SUBSTANTIAL difference in output until 3-4k depending on gear/load and size of the motor.

And if you are going to argue everyday drivability... don't know about you, but efficiency is my number one concern and unless I need to accelerate substantially I rarely go above atmospheric manifold pressure for the simple reason that a safe tune is going to involve in some petrol dosing when that -kpa turns into +kpa :P

Soooo, the only reason left for not getting a bigger turbo then is fear of the 1zz's matchstick sized rods with power approaching the 200atw region - amirite? :P

Stock paint coating on the cooler from FPV. Heatsoak hasn't been a problem in stop-start traffic in the recent 30+ degree days in Brisbane. Datalogs show the intake temps rise from 32-34deg up to 38-40 while sitting in traffic, they drop straight back down as soon as you start moving. My maps are tuned to compensate for the variance in inlet temps.

That is an F6 cooler? Yeah they are anodized I am quite sure, probably why you are all good :)

If you've used/tuned a vipec you'd know why it's being changed. Makes the PFC seem like a toy. Also being done for gear based boost control, waterspray control, direct wideband input, and the lovely closed loop idle the vipec offers...

The final dyno tuning will be done by Mark at Godzilla, who I'm sure you've heard of if you have a skyline ;) He did the dyno tuning of my V88 in my forester too.

The powerfc's OK, but we like to innovate..

I am yet to see a vipec in action, however it isn't hard to imagine it making the PFC look like a pocket calculator. PFC has got to be the most basic software out there, probably why so many people love them, as well as their precious 'knock' readings... they are the amateur tuners tool of choice.

Waterspray as well eh? will be interesting to see if that does much for the turbo, are you going to have it fire on intake temp?

I know of Mark from Godzilla... a few local guys fly him down to Newcastle just to get him to tune their GTR's they have that much faith in him. That being said I would be somewhat selective of who touched my ECU as well if I was running a 1000hp street GTR with a $40,000 motor :P

Also, please more details of the Vipec and how it goes in your forester, Vipecs are made by Link aren't they?... what did you end up making with it power wise? I was considering getting one of these beasts for mine when I pump up the turbo, but I like my little Wolf controller with full feedback and from what I have read such a thing isn't yet available for the Vipec. I cbf setting up a laptop and **** just to monitor my temps/boost/etc.

Excellent explanation on clutches too JP, A+ :P

Very nice boys :D

Especially on a budget, the DIY workmanship has come out nicely. Bummer about the clutch... but its all good, clutches are like tyres as far as I am concerned, nothing but a consumable for the performance vehicle :P

Little dissappointed in the turbo choice though I have to say... do you intend on changing it for something a bit meatier down the track if/when you get a built motor? There still seems to be a bit of spare space.

Is that cooler custom painted or anodized? Just thought that I would mention that apparently testing with black painted front mounts (yes they do a good job of averting attention) has resulted in some pretty chronic heat soak depending what paint is used.

Also have you/are you guys gotten that awesome plenum flow tested? Don't know if it is an issue for the 1zz, but I know some certain aftermarket Nissan front facing plenums have issues with inconsistent flow to certain cylinders resulting in lean outs. I know you guys said the volume is equal...

Annnnnd, how come you are scrapping the Apexi? Not the most brilliant ECU, but I would say it does the job apart from the temp gauge. I have heard good things about the Vipec however, tons of features but perhaps overkill? Unless you plan on running some fully sik NAAAAAAWWWWS and launch control at ever set of lights :D

And don't be soft... pump the boost, spare 1zz short motor is chump change these days. I wanna see at least 1 bar out of this thing! Just take the ignition timing in dolly steps on the dyno... dose up the A/F ratio and there shouldn't be any probs, hopefully *cough*

Keep us updated Jason's!

Like rollamods said... stock Rexies do not have much top end at all, the whole top mount cooler and standard turbo setup is for response and it makes them great to drive around 'normally'... makes them seem really torquey. They are made more for sprints and narrow tracks, not drag strips. Also there is a fair difference in standard performance between the old EJ20 (? correct me if I got the wrong motor :P) and the newer 2.5L. However as Corolla_sportivo mentioned... a WRX that is even slightly modified will effortlessly wave goodbye to pretty much any N/A 1zz/2zz.

It is not fair to compare forced induction vehicles unless you are talking stock for stock in which case you really see the credit that is due for motors like the 2zz and various Honda productions that favour screaming RPMs to deliver power equal to that of mild forced induction. However you aslo have to keep in mind that all turbo and s/ced cars that come out these days are 'detuned' to buggery for emissions reasons and N/A screamers are seemingly more 'highly strung' comparitively. As such you will get much more out of modifications done to the turbo car than you would the N/A. Basically I am saying that you just need to take each car for what it is and you can really only compare cars of similar classes if you are looking for bragging rights ;)

FYI that stagea ran 136 from memory. *** damn, that R31 was fun to watch though. He needs new coil packs and he'll be even more uber then.

BiLoL wasn't even at the dyno day you noobhatzor!

I'll defend Pulsars to the death, because in reality they are similar to our cars in a few ways. Many people have done similar jobs to the GTiR Pulsars and come out with weapons, you can't deny that.

Yeah I like GTiR's, I was just being a Jimsky Equation

I'll give you 6 in...I mean...10 inches of Robsy Equation if you d...wait wtf am I saying :o

Gigiddy...

Nice results there boys, feel like big men showing up these cars worth half as much as yours? :P

I kid, I kid. Actually, I don't. Or do I?

That turbo pulsar looks like he has wasted him time with a T25 though, I really don't see a T28 fitting in there. Why go to the bother of doing a turbo conversion with such a toothpick turbo? Better to have full boost ramp on 1000rpm later and make 50-80 killer wasps more me thinks. Oh well to each their own...

That Stagea must be standard for 136. I thought the front driveshafts were a prick to do for the Stagea to go on a 2 wheel drive dyno, the GTR boys whine about doing theirs :P

GTiR Pulsars have potential, sure... 4wd, 1200kg kurb weight, standard SR20 turbo... but most of them on the roads now are really clapped out and been through multiple rebuilds already. I personally wouldn't waste time with a GTiR, SR20s are poopy donks. They make good torque for a 2L 4, but the 3sgte is a much better motor of comparative specs IMO.

And lollerskates at the riced R31, must have thrown some green at that poor old RB20. You guys know what turbo he was running? The standard RB25 made 220 without breaking a sweat in 40 degree temperatures ;) - well actually, it kinda blew up the dyno

instant usable power... turbo... should they be in the same sentence? maybe you should have said supercharged...

disagree here ..... u need to look at correctly sizing the turbo to the car and the new line of garret turbo's and u'll c y i disagree.

Its true... in the last few years the efficiency of turbo response has improved greatly. Have a look at some of the turbo's being developed by the europeans (audi/porsche turbos) and the yanks now.

Hell, even my 10 year old standard RB25 turbo with a ceramic exhaust wheel still rams on 12 psi in no more than 1/2 a second anywhere between 2k rpm and redline and that is with about 3 metres of cooler piping.

To associate turbo's with lack of response these days simply isn't right, just gotta pick your application!

And to contribute to the OP... the likelyhood is you are just getting used to the power mate, the thrill of 100kw atw doesn't last too long :P As others have said, you can try and bandaid fix this disspleasure with something like a CAI or you can drink a nice tall glass of harden the **** up and apply some boost to that ****. Just sayin'

PS. Yes, LS1s are dinosaurs but when modified whatsoever *cough* twin turbo *cough* they prove why the Aussies were dumb enough to buy em'. Oh and they sound sweet with the right exhaust and cams :D

Haha, poor xoom... still trying to encourage but to no avail :P

It seems like your last option is to give every sportivo modding N/A jockey here a sample of your car to show them that there is no such thing as a bang for buck mod with a 1.8L 4 cyl...

This kit would be a great deal btw, at less than $3500 landed... another 1000-1500 for install and tune (easy install however emanage wiring will cost you and an amateur tuner who has never seen a 2zz before will have problems) you are good to go.

Good deal, take it.

what fuel are you hoping to use with the 13.1 comp pistons?

To a full tank of gas i use 2 bottles of octane boost but thats y i have ordered a aquamist kit

Just thought I would add those octane boosters really only end up boosting the octane rating of your fuel by about 0.7 (even with 2 bottles), so I wouldn't be dependent on them to run your 13:1 pistons...

Just thought I would add that I believe Link G3s have VVTLi support as well, however they are not a plug and play job for a Sportivo, not even sure if Link have done a Celica loom, so full wiring needs to be done.

Power FC does the same job and is cheaper and easier though so it doesn't really matter :P

And I also predict if 1ZZFZE gets his car sorted (especially the obvious intake charge temp problem :P ) should be low 14's all day. Make sure you do the VVTi right JP, that is where you make the midrange torque! Oh and get new injectors so you can smash it to at least 7k rpm - it would still be making power up there with the blower I imagine.

Yep, sunroofs are ftw :D

One of my favorite features of the current vehicle. Definitely adds to the pimp factor and is awesome at high speeds, really shows you the importance of aerodynamics in a performance car :P

Your rev range is quite normal for the Corolla. Some of the other small cars are different, for example my old's have a Getz and that car drives best around 2k rpm, cruising on the flat you can often shift at 1500 odd rpm. There isn't much point shifting higher in such a car anyway :P

The Jazz motor/box must be setup very similarly - for 'efficiency'.

Pump the rear guards and fit some 265 with a nice big deep dish rim.

I concur. This just happens to be exactly what I have on my car, but being of a certain Nissan variety I didn't have to pump or even roll any guards :P

If you are getting wheelspin hitting lift in anything other than 1st gear (even in the wet) then you need to sort your suspension/tyre/wheel setup. You should be able to fit at least 235's on the ZZW30 without banging/rolling anything.

B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power.

That is a very ignorant comment to make...

You have obviously been at Binladens for a few years.....

Do a bit of research and you will see that not only in the US but here in AUS theres a ALOT of mildly moded (not race, but street) cars running low 12s N/A

2.4lt and under.

Eh... read carefully bud. Replacing parts of the motor is not tuning, that is modifying parts (intakes/headers/cams/plenums, etc) - 'Tuning' refers to ECU adjustment and I was pointing out that no matter how much you 'tune' a small N/A street motor it isn't going to be quick.

And yes I am aware there are many die hard Honda boys who get kicks out of turning their car into a shell and running quick times with pissant power output. I wouldn't call not having half a functioning car 'mildly modded'. These people should go and fap over initial D some more or something.

My post was making a point - chopin2 doesn't want performance that is situation dependent (can't have air-con, can't have back seats, can't have sound deadening, can't have airbags, wind has to be running with you, can't have doors :P) so stripping his car and running with a 'tuned' 100kw atw standard N/A motor is just a retarded suggestion, mmmk?

The hatorade is flowing strongly here haha.

You guys need to lay off old mate chopin2 for wanting to take it to his car. You people seem to care more about his car breaking than he does.

So what you blow a motor - buy a new one, the toyota economy motors are cheap and easy to drop in.

The boxes are strong, nothing to cry about there. So what if he doesn't put the right clutch in, he is just going to get clutch slip - boo hoo.

Just because they guy doesn't know everything about ECU's and motor internals doesn't mean he isnt allowed to drive a fast car - he just has to pay.

B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power.

chopin2, personally I wouldn't be coughing up $8k to that chump rigoli... he is probably just going to look at the engine bay for a few hours, leave the car lying around for a few weeks, then have his apprentice throw something together for you. You could do a good bolt on job for much less depending on who you know that can do fabrication work for you. Have Xoom or someone that knows what is going on have a look at your engine bay and sus out your pipework routes, possible heat issues, etc.

I would say your main problem lies in finding suitable engine management...Autronic isn't worth the money for the application, I would maybe go a Haltec, Microtech probably isn't well suited as you want to stick with MAFs not MAP sensors for a low power job (yes 160kw is lightweight).

In short, I say, don't be a sissy and waste time/money sussing out engine strength, just keep things conservative (a good tuner is vital) and start pushing the boundaries when you are bored and have a replacement motor on standby. This is the best way to learn, not cracking open the motor and hypothesizing about centripetal force encumbrance load of the rods and pressure strength of the pistons. Some douche would probably try and charge you a ****load to do this anyway (enough to buy a new motor if that one breaks).

Get the right tuner, start it conservative and you will be right, just go for it :)

nice choice for a family car, I take it the new jobs are going well for you guys... hope the are! ;)

Nice work boys, you must have found a good suspension/weight setup to be able to roll with the AWD cars in an offroad rally, as the car seems quite well balanced.

Pete, going straight for the rice... induction noise and BOV, tsk tsk.

Gotta be careful with pods these days and the boys in blue, make sure you get a box/enclosure made up for it, or even modify it into the stock airbox if you can.

Have the Mazda guys given these cars a thorough workout yet, tested the boost limits of the factory turbo?

First thing I would be doing to a modern turbo car modwise is a turbo back exhaust, increases boost efficiency a tonne, especially with Euro IV cars. Although it being BRAND NEW,you want to be careful of warranty and whatnot.

Nice ride anyhow dude, don't understeer it into any gutters :P

you noob 2nd gear would have smoked so much better, plus roll backs are wussy

that's the way Poggy, tell this amateur how to wreck his car like a man. See what you want to do is bounce it off the limiter until you got 1 wheel spinning, then flat shift into 2nd and keep it on the limiter. When it sounds like stuff is breaking, don't despair - that just means you are doing a fully hectic burnout :D

Guys

how does it compared with jap systems with silencer?

My frd used to have a tanabe system on his DC2 long time ago with a silencer.

The exhaust sound onlytiny marginal louder than stock when the silencer is fitted.

I know different ppl have different requirement, but I really want something sound stock when the rpm range is low. Cos my gf doesnt like noisy sound.

I also will be painted the muffler charcoal so ppl dont know the mod.

For some reason I hear the faint sound of whips... don't know why, but yep, I am definitely hearing whips cracking.

That is all.

Tats, that was a good article you posted and I agree with it on the whole.

Give the 'hoons' safe tarmac they can use and educate them with driving (not how to drive like every other incompetent clown who somehow manages to get a government issued license) and accidents as a result of this demographic are sure to reduce. The fact is, if people want to race/drive stupidly, there is nothing you can do to stop them, short of banning all cars with more than 50kw - however you CAN stop them causing accidents that will impact other people as described.

About a year ago they were going to build a track and drag strip just down the road from me, but the proposal got knocked back because apparently endangered plants grow there....pffft damn greenies :P

pfft, that button is a rice feature it performs no other function other than that already provided by the 'select' button on the Profec B... Bill you ricer

^

its true, dis guy speaks the truth

but sometimes i think about this...

modified car are sometimes modified with cheap modifications

often cheap mods are unsafe mods, this can be a problem

look at the money standard, modified M3 is usually modifed a lot safer because of higher parts standards used and research done, compared to lancer modified with super cheap auto components

Yes this is true and a big problem ... people who take cheap short cuts when modifying vital parts of a vehicle (like suspension, tyres) are not doing anyone any favours.

I see this alot with import owners, and not just the owners, but the people who comply the vehicles when they are imported, not replacing fluids and forgoing the installation of stuff like side impact bars.

So many stupid (mostly young) guys who get these performance imports just have no idea how to drive or properly modify cars, let alone high performance ones.

Like an incident that happened at WSID last Wednesday I think it was... a guy in an R33 GTR, who had never driven the car on high boost before (was making 300aw kw) crashed his car and almost decimated the guy he was racing against because he was just clueless. He had never run at a drag strip before and first run the douche tries to launch the car off the limiter, fishies a few times (is obviously well versed in throttle control) and spins off IN FRONT of the S14 he was racing (luckily this guy saw it coming and braked to avoid a collision) and smashing into the wall.

So anyone driving a WRX/Evo/GTR/Audi, etc who thinks AWD will compensate for lack of driver control, you are wrong. Kinda feel sorry for the guy because insurance is not going to cover that...

Anyhow, I don't see these laws being softened anytime soon, they will only get harsher and it will become increasingly difficult to drive a known performance car on the roads these days regardless of the state of the vehicle or driver. The cops know that there is a greater chance that the guy driving the XR6 Turbo will do something wrong or has 'illegal modifications' than a grandma in a 1988 Toyota Camry and the chance game is the way most of them play it.

This is always an interesting argument...

For the whole 3 years when I was on my P's (this was before all the various 'new' laws of turbo cars and whatnot) I was not pulled over once (owned the corolla the whole time with an excessively loud exhaust) - didn't even get flagged into 1 RBT. I revved the car beyond 4k rpm (not exceeding the speed) directly in front of coppers, even broke traction in front of them before (no I was NOT doing a burnout/being unsafe, it was unintentional), but because i was driving a corolla they didn't care. As far as I am concerned though I could have been as dangerous as any other car on the road, even though I drive very sensibly.

At the point when the corolla was at its modified high I was targeted hard out of a pack of traffic in a defect station up north. I mean there were some real unroadworthy ****boxes in this pack - the car infront of me was blowing smoke, rusted like crap, another car further up was missing a rear bar, etc. But they targeted my car because it looked clean, lowered, nice wheels, non standard exhaust - they didn't even know what sort of car it was. NO I was not driving badly at all, I am simply demonstrating the selection criteria on which copas base this 'law enforcement' on.

Then within the first week of owning my skyline I was pulled up out of nowhere by the cops on a rural road at 8pm, for an RBT and because I was apparently speeding some 20k's over (I wasn't, had the speedometer tested for accuracy). I was simply cruising along a straight road, the cops drove past in the opposite direction....when they saw what car I was driving the sirens went on and they ripped a 180 degree drift followed by a burnout to pursue me. I won't go into detail here but anyhow what the officer implied was basically "you take the speeding fine or I am going to defect your car". Needless to say, I took the 'speeding fine' as $70 is much cheaper than fixing a defect. Now the car isn't standard however the minor mods done are completely legal.

I have no problems getting pulled over for a "random breath test" (this is the official reason for pulling over nice cars it seems) and being let on my way or if I was doing the wrong thing and got pulled up on it, I wouldn't have any problems paying the price. What I do have a problem with is getting treated like a criminal for driving a nice car that outperforms the majority of road vehicles in handling, stopping power and general safety.

Anyhow long rant short (sort of), now I do pretty much crap my pants whenever I see a cop, not because I am doing something wrong but because there is the chance they are one of the **** wits and will defect/impound my car for no genuine reason in the name of making the road a safer place.

I don't think anyone is arguing here, no one is getting aggressive, some of you ladies need to harden up. (Note the following the material contains course language, may not be suitable for some viewers)

The facts are simple however:

* A well implemented custom turbo kit will outperform the blitz s/c kit any day of the week in every respect.

* A well implemented custom turbo kit will cost substantially more and require more parts than a blitz s/c kit

* Probably anyone with any know how could install the blitz s/c kit, being 'bolt on' whereas a turbo kit can take many months to fabricate/install by 'professionals'

* As I have said earlier in the thread, blitz make good gear and i think people buying this kit should be pretty comfortable and where they are putting their money. I mean the kit is sure to include ALL necessary fittings and tools for any modifications that need to be done. And I am sure the reliability and lastability of this kit would be great

Taking into account these facts, all that people need to ask themselves is how much performance do they want and how much do they want to spend. Simple. Only when money isn't an object does the debate become interesting...but in reality, who drives a Corolla if money isn't an object? :)

I thought CT26 turbos were used on gen3 SW20s... I haven't actually seen one but the earlier CT20 3sgte turbo's are tiny weak little pieces of crap.

Damn Toyota and their dodgy turbo model numbering...

I read it as suggesting you'd run out of fuel before 20 laps was up with the high boost turbo setup ;)

Yeah I don't know...sounded alot like an open challenge to me - xoom, you know what to do...race him for slips :P