dakota

I've worked in the industry for a very long time..and I know for a fact that most manufacturers will look (quite hard too) for reasons not to do a warranty repair...

A dealer can "say" anything they want..if it's not in writing it's not worth a cracker..when it comes to repair time the warranty clerk will go by the book, and if a cars been modified (even TRD stuff) beyond standard, and they dont feel inclined to do the repair, you'll be on your own buddy.

I guesstimate a blow up rebuild for a 2ZZ-fe done at a Toyota dealer would be upwards of $10k....(based on the same job for a Camry 5yrs ago at $7500)

Is it worth the risk..??

My mates company lost so many $32 covers on their ascents, ( they are a very loose fit and often drop out if the cars used on rough roads ) they had them siliconed in..works a treat.

And yes just put your hand up behind the cover and a slight flex and a gentle push is all thats needed to pop them out.

Yeah ..watch the old "yr Injectors need cleaning .." (@$200.00) Cannon(Camberwell) 'll try this at as low as sub 30K B on yr guard dude....

Cannon (Camberwell) have lost the plot too ...they dont listen any more, and just seem interested in trying to push their big buck service add-ons (non Toyota $200 injector clean at 29,000k), stuff it, I'm not going there any more.

My one experience with Nunawading was very good, superb clean bright workshops and staff that listen with interest....I'm using them from now on

Black455 how did Cannon lose it for you ??

To avoid warped rotors it is very important NOT to complete a period of heavy hot braking by sitting stationary with your foot hard on the brake, stick it in neutral and use the handbrake, (for example sitting at lights after descending a steep hill.)

What happens is that the heated pad creates a hot spot on that portion of the rotor, which then cools at a different rate to the rest of the rotor, thus causing it to warp.

Please believe me..I'm not stirrin..but I've been in the trade, and m guessing a full gearbox rebuild (ONLY back to where you were, NOT any better) in a Dealer using Toyota original parts could be about $7500.00 plus.

Can anyone check to see what the diff is between a std IZZ-FE clutch is and a 2ZZ-FE clutch is ??

You should be especially interested in diameter, spring stiffness, and friction type...

Everything should be a minimum of 40% plus , if it's the same, or similar, you've may have a case for having a product not suitable for its sold intention...

Good luck ....

cheers everyone, thanks for all the advice...gee I love this board..everyone helping each other..cool.

OK here we go ... will a standard 'Stivo back box bolt straight onto a IZZ-FE flange ?? and wtf do they have those springs on the bolts for??.. and will it make any difference (I'm guessin YES..better flow. ).

OK guys shoot me down in flames....!!

Hi Fellow Toyota owners,

This is the official word from toyota.

For any of those rattles and noises on the car they are actually un-warrantable and only as a gesture of good faith were they even looked at. Toyota like i said as a gesture of good faith will warrant these rattles & noises for the first 6 months or 10K km's but after that they cant do much for you. Why ?

Well the word is that it is at that point in time that well the car has been on the road for a while and things in the car have probably loosened up etc etc etc which to me sounds fair enough but leaves me questioning toyota's build quality if after on 10K km's you have a whole heap of things coming loose ?????????

Who told me this. Well here's the title:

Regional Technical Operation Manager

Customer Services  - Eastern Region

Anyway looks like i will continue to enjoy my little rattles until i get annoyed enought to start pulling stuff appart myself and fixing what ever it is.

Just thought i'd let you all know.

Mind u if u think its mechanical or something serious still get it checked out.

The other interesting fact is we couldnt hear any of these rattles n noises over the gear selector cables issue so this is an interesting loop hole......  

Cheers

Bill

←

I seem to recall there's a reference to rattles not being covered by warranty in the front of the Corolla owners manual..

Last year I saw this dude on an american Corolla site who'd totally obsessed out over all his rattles and stripped the front of his car out finding them. He was posting pics as things progressed too.

He fixed 90% of the noise and rattles in the car and most of it was due to cheap plastics parts with fasteners that would never be tight enough. I remember him saying the plastic wiper panel was causing a lot of the noise vibrating.

He carefully siliconed or padded any thing that had a likelihood of rattling, he even had a before and after DB graph...

I'll see if I can find the link.

I covered 45k km so far and had 3 sets of brake pads.

Now I have to change front rotors (pay for it :( ).

Rear rotors were replaced 10K km ago under warranty.

Will now buy EBC Greenstuff pads - hope they last longer than stock (15k km)...

←

imek have they given you a quote ( $$) for the new front rotors ??

It's a Levin, not a 'tivo..........( I wish !...u lucky fellas !!)

Rollamods they invoiced as follows......

Oil Filter #TO90915yzze1 $19.84

Plug Gasket TO 9043012031 $1.56

Air Filter TO1780122020 $39.16

4x Plugs TOK16RU11 $16.12

4lts Coolant T00888980086 $41.87

Brake fluid NGABF 050 $9.88

None of the above included GST

How do these prices compare with other dealer service invoices...I think they're a bit rich ??

Cheers Guys, all your advice is much appreciated, and Zee and Pecker I think you've summed it up nicely .

I am ****** off because up to now this dealership had done the right thing by us, and I'd recommended it on the board.

I only go to a Toyota dealership because I want ONLY toyota recommended servicing as per the book, and ONLY toyota parts used.

Clearly at only 30k this car DIDN'T need anything extra doing, it's actually getting much better as the kms rise not worse, we hadn't complained of rough running so this seems to have been just a rip for extra cash.

Toyota themselves really need to look at this...........

For those interested in prices the 2yr service (without the dodgey $198 injector clean) ended up as follows :-

Labour $210.00

Parts $128.00

Magnatec $35.00

Misc $14.00

GST $39.00

Totalling $426.00

OK as we speak the 'rollas in for it's 2yr service, it's only done 30000k though. It's a biggish service, fresh coolant air filter brake fluid etc, the car is used only by my wife and she was told $420' ish all up.

it's 10.00 am and they've phoned her at work and told her it needs an" injector service" at an extra $198 !!!! it's not a proper "remove injectors and ultrasonically clean" service, it's something else.

She told them no, but I want (urgently) to get your guys feeling on this, especially pricewise...thanks fellas..

If the noise is apparent on over-run, coasting without throttle, it is usually symptomatic of a worn gearbox bearing.

Drive belt tensioners were often replaced on IZZ-FE MR2's to fix a rattly engine sound, and made a big difference, dont think local 'rollas have needed new tensioners fitted yet and of course that's not a gearbox issue.

Just keep an eye out for a couple of items on Toyota dealers service invoices.

Items described as "engine flush" or "injector cleaner" are usually cheap'n nasty WYNNS additives NOT approved by Toyota but with huge profit margins for dealers.

Two melbourne dealers I've used recently have tried this scam on me and now I have to instruct them not to use it, if you say nothing they'll just lob it in without asking, this is especially important for you guys who pay special attention to oil purity and cleanliness.

Check yr invoices...anyone else got it on there..??

Like Jana says.. ( **** am I in Luv or what ???) yer only as good as yer last race ..(ie.. Service) so it's Cannon Toyota Camberwell (Melb) for just listening an fixing wit reasonable $$ too... they're the best so far in the East for me anyway..

Here's the KP rotor link.........

DBA KP Rotors

DBA have been advertising their new "Kangaroo Paw" discs on Melbourne telly on the weekend.

There's a completely different casting pattern inside the disc, giving hugely improved heat dissapation compared with their regular ventilated discs....

Gotta be worth a try ??

OK found the IZZ-fe development link again........

IZZ-fe

I'm wondering if the IZZ-fe oil pump is the same as the 2ZZ-fe one. The problem seems to be the pump housing cracking (i'm guessing due to way excess oil pressure at very high rpm) and a resultant dramatic loss of oil pressure.

There's an old link somewhere on this MB on the IZZ-fe by the development engineers ....the clear message is that the motor is primarily designed for ease and cheapness of construction and assembly, and maximum fuel economy due to minimal internal friction, a good example of this is the extra narrow main and big end bearings...brilliant for low friction, not so good for long term durability i'm guessing.

If the 2ZZ-fe has inherited much, especially bottom end stuff, from the 1ZZ-fe surely there's gonna be durability issues when it's pushin out +40% extra power and 30% more revs....???

So with re-map can you do things a simple as reduce startup RPM from 1900 to (say) 1500..??

Geese screemin its guts off stone cold is deeply pissin me off...

not to mention wearin the beejesus outa th motor....

yeah, Cannon Toyota in Camberwell (Melbourne) try extra hard to please...that's my experience.

Sir, I dips me lid to ya....that has to be the most comprehensive answer to any question I've posted on the net in the last 7 years...Cheers'n Beers MAP81.

Thanks for that...and Toyota reckon it's worth an extra 4kw too !...was it about $300'ish, and did you fit it yourself ??