legend_of_lazz

Nice! I haven't seen DRL's on a Evo, can you take pic with them on?

The DRLs aren't too bad in person. I'm not the biggest fan but they're a Ralliart option so I may keep them. They don't look too bad turned on but they're pretty ricey. I'll probably get rid of them eventually.

i'm surprised that its only making 235kw with those mods...

i thought that they're quite responsive to mods.

The car is very conservatively tuned. It runs quite low boost compared to some. It's only running around 20 psi. Some people are running 26 and more but with over 260 with similar mods but I'd rather sacrifice a little power for reliability, especially considering the heat in Townsville. I don't see the point in extra power for a street car when the risk of detonation increases. I don't want to have to rebuild the engine. It's scarily fast really. 235 awkw doesn't sound huge but the torque curve past 3500 rpm is incredible. Some friends have Skylines with around the 300 awkw mark and this car is about the same in terms of acceleration. People have screamed when I've accelerated in first and second. There's really nothing out there that'll match it so I'm not too fussed about upping the power any time soon. It runs in the high 11s on the quarter if that's any indication.

Hi guys,

I've sold my Aurion and the guy I sold it to wants the rear badges for it. The car is a Sportivo SX6. If anybody still has their badges from their car if they've debadged it I'd be happy to buy them from you for a reasonable price. I'm looking for the Toyota Badge and the Sportivo SX6 Badge.

Thanks.

Hi all,

The time has come for me to move on from my Aurion. I've sold my car and have made the change to something a little sportier. I loved my Aurion for the nearly two years I owned her and modified her and will have very fond memories of the car for a long time. It was an absolute joy every time I drove it. My new car is a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII MR. I picked it up from a guy in Adelaide and have been driving her for a week now. The car has quite a bit of work done to it including intake, exhaust, cams, ECU and EBC. It is currently putting out 235kw at the wheels. It does 0-100 in about 3.5 seconds and probably faster with a launch. This car is incredible. It accelerates, brakes and handles like nothing I would have ever thought possible. I'm pretty excited about my new car and I hope it gives me the same amount of enjoyment my Aurion has for the last couple of years.

Here's a few photos.

Hey guys, bit of a thread revival, but just wondering what the long term implications of a faulty VVTI controller are. I am having mine replaced with extended warranty but it'll be quite a while between when it was identified and when it will be replaced.

Bump.

Bump.

Edit.

Edit.

Hey guys, rather than starting a new topic, thought I'd ask here. So I'm having my 60,000km service done this Friday at my local Toyota dealership and was wondering if anyone thinks it's necessary to remove my K&N Typhoon Intake and put my stock air box back in. My car has 5 year extended warranty. There are no issues with the vehicle other than steering to the left and a worn out sway bar bush causing a knock.

I don't think it's necessary. It's your call though. I've taken my Aurion's into Toyota for a service numerous times with the various things done to it and they never really said anything or had an issue with it. If you have something broken that could be somehow related to your mods (in the eyes of Toyota), then that's a different story.

Everything's fine with the car itself so I'll leave it be. I can't be bothered changing it until I sell the car in a few months. Thanks for the quick reply as always.

Hey guys, rather than starting a new topic, thought I'd ask here. So I'm having my 60,000km service done this Friday at my local Toyota dealership and was wondering if anyone thinks it's necessary to remove my K&N Typhoon Intake and put my stock air box back in. My car has 5 year extended warranty. There are no issues with the vehicle other than steering to the left and a worn out sway bar bush causing a knock.

Thanks for any help.

A bit off topic, but finally another member in Townsville. Welcome to TOCAU.

Seriously though how hot is Rachael Finch lol?

I think this chick is hotter:

I fell for this again!!!

(I don't have kids. Yet.)

Don't.

1) Take out springs

Angle grinder to the rescue. Super low.

3) get a turbo, connect exhaust to mouth and inlet to a.se - Blow hard

I got a turbonator. 500 hp boost!!!

The next destination is the fan.

I love Supras... How do you lower an Aurion? What size are the speakers? How do you turbo?

How many people came into this thread thinking that the OP was going to ask about installing something to track the Aurion if its stolen? Come on fess up

That makes two of us.

It's really just for safety reasons.

Out of interest, what safety benefits are there to locking your doors while you drive?

I do it as soon as I get in the car. There is a group of guys here in Townsville who like to hide in bushes near red lights and grab drivers through windows or unlocked doors while stopped at the lights. Call me paranoid but I have a friend who had his jaw broken and head kicked in by them while waiting at the lights with his window down. Sadistic or not, if that happens to me, I'll grab them and go. See how they like being dragged along at 100km. Can't stand that sort of person.

Just thought I'd update this with what I now use. I've been removing marks and swirls from my paint over the last few weeks with Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a foam applicator. I decided to have a go on the glass. I have used a total of 5 'coats'. Once the product has turned clear and the abrasive has broken down completely apply another coat of it. You may need to use more or less depending on the severity of the marking. Once finished, wipe it away with a microfibre towel. The results are amazing. The marks were nasty and heavy but have 99% cleared up. The windows look great.

Dealer serviced but missed first service by 5k km.

That could be your archilles heel

Anyway, the manual states 5w-30, and since it was dealer serviced, they should've advised if it were not suitable.

It does sound like your engine did not bed in properly and the bores are glazed.

(on a seperate note, did you baby your engine when you first got it?)

I would however keep hounding them as a. It was dealer serviced, b. the oil is the recommended grade, c. the car was new (and hopefully unmodified?)

I would seriously consider whether or not you took delivery of a car with an inherent defect and keep making this point to the dealer.

I've never had to top up oil inbetween services

My car missed its first service entirely, it's an ex rental and Hertz may have been lazy. It's just about to hit 60K on the my 2007 Sportivo and it runs beautifully, haven't had a single issue since day one. Then again, I could just be lucky but I hope this didn't cause it in your case.

"Who are you to tell me what to do with my life... bitch."

Sigged. Thanks Daryl.

Hi just after some information in regards to the footwell lights available for the aurion.Do they come standard in the Presara or Prodigy.I had alook under the dash and seen where they fit into, what I want to know is,are the wiring plugs already there taped up ready to be plugged into the lights and where abouts do the rear ones fit.I thought I would ask here first (someone might already have done the install ) before giving Toyota a buzz

I've installed my own footwell lights using some LEDs from eBay. I have run wiring up over the glove box and behing the steering wheels for the front and into the centre console for the rears and attached a switch to them. The power is sourced from the 12v outlet in the centre console. It is definately possible to wire them in conjunction with the headlights or the centre dome light, but I like being able to turn them on and off whenever I want, and I just like switches. Please excuse my pictures, they were taken for a different purpose and they are the only ones I have showing the lights. The light inside is most accurate in the darker photos.

As for placement, the lights cannot be seen from inside the car. The rear lights are attached to the bottom of the front seats facing the rear. I have found this gives the best light. The entire mod cost around $20.

My car feels less unique with every passing day...

No really it has come out tops mate! Can be a bit tricky to get right but it looks like you've taken the time to do it right the first time. excellent!

Thanks, I'm really happy with it overall.

Sigh. I wish I could get off my lazy ***** and do this

Just do it. You won't regret it. I had a guy less than an hour ago saying that he is now going to buy an Aurion after seeing what they can look like and how they feel to drive in.

Alternator whine can be caused by a whole lot of issues in a car. An earth is a good earth as long as it has a good contact (which by the sounds yours does).

First of all ensure your gains are set correctly. It is a common mistake to simply turn the gains up. The sad fact is that a small degree of alternator whine will normally always end up in the system, but by setting the gains properly it can be made inaudible.

I find the best way to set amplifier gains is:

1) Turn gains down completely

2) Set volume on source unit to 3/4 Max

3) Turn the gains up until you reach what you consider to be an ideal listening volume for driving

The resultant level of gain will depend on a few factors: for example the voltage of the RCA outputs from the headunit (most are between 1-2v, however some Eclipse units present up to 5v), as well as the RMS value of your amplifier (obviously a 75wrms amplifier will be louder at 3/4 gain then a 50wrms amplifier at 3/4 gain).

You can make some easy shorting plugs for testing where the engine noise is entering the system. A shorting plug is simply an RCA connector with both wires connected together. First of all try plugging it into the inputs of your amplifier - if the engine noise disappears, then in all likely-hood it's being introduced through your RCAs. No matter how good the RCAs, certain things will still induce alternator noise into the signal (ie proximity to power cabling or other devices in the car which may induce alot of interference like the body control module inside modern Commodores).

Hope this helps

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go in the next few days.

Hey guys, bit of a thread revival here. I decided to jump in and get some 3M vinyl and work on the trim in the car to cover the scratches. The photos really don't do it justice and I recommend this to anyone. Everyone who's been in my car over the last few days says it looks a lot better. The entire project has taken around 8 hours including pulling everything apart, covering it and putting it all back together. Please excuse the dirty car, I took these before cleaning it.