Mecha-wombat

Corolla is easily the faster car

the Lancer is all show

It looks like toyota are waiting to see what the other manufactuers are bringing out as a hot hatch

Also I suppose they will want to see how the Rukus fairs before unleashing the weapon know as the BLADE !!

I would be very tempted to get a Blade as absolute power corrupts absolutely

my gps shows 3-5km/h slower than the speedometer in my 2010 corolla

the speedo in my prefacelift is dead on

so said the ticket I got 3yrs ago from the nice highway patrol officer

HMMM

***** I hate PUNK kids on the interwebz

Wow I can't even say Je ez

Kenshin yeah I used the HPR10, I run 5W50 Mobil 1 in my 380 and both oils have quelled the noise but the Penrite is half the price !!

umm just a normal hose with jet setting... i try not to take too long since i don't want the soap to dry on the paint. so far it's been good and ever since i properly clayed and waxed it, the car has been much easier to clean

if you have a good solid clean base like you do it wont take much at all

Best be is to do a full detail

Wash

Clay

Wash

Polish

Buff

Wax

Buff

should take at least 6 hours if done properly and then you only need to run the HP hose over the top for at least 3 months

but forget using megs or mothers get Autoglym or something even more expensive cause they actually last longer

Hope it goes well for you

But quell the attitude it wont get you any where

I used Penrite 10W50 to quieten down the ticking noise and it actually no longer exsists

So you cleaned the bird poo off as soon as you noticed it???

I would go back to the dealer and get them to explain the product, its performance and upkeep

But you do know that the Paint protection is not what it claims itself to be!

Take to the dealer and ask for a full run down so you have confidence in the product(sic)

first thing I did was move the stock intake from the top of the engine bay and place it down to behind the foggie

cooler air = happier engine

plus it straighten the way the air flowed into the engine as stock it runs a S bend :o

dont get ricer lights FFS

does that mean you have a spare ashtray???

never mind

8Q3

it is called greyish blue mica/pearl

A good wash once a week and a polish every 3 months will do more than PP could ever do

Do you mean wax every 3 months? I wouldn't make polishing a regular item, as it's essentially a destructive process, like a very fine sandpaper. The more you do it, the more you strip you clear coat and eventually you won't have any left. Polishing should be done on an as-needed basis; regular washing and keeping a layer of wax on there will go a long way to helping keep that clear coat in tip-top condition.

As for paint protection, the consensus seems to be that it is in fact just wax which they apply pre-delivery the same as you and I would, except they charge you $1200 for the privilege

Regarding paint curing time, as you've said the car has been sitting around painted for quite a while before you ever get to drive it, applying some wax won't hurt it at all. I'd stop short of polishing perhaps (not that it should need it), but waxing when done properly really isn't tough on the paintwork - you can even apply it by hand if you want. It really won't hurt anything.

I think you are talking CUTTING POLISHES and no I dont use them every 3 months actually never used a cutting polish yet (maybe I should on the corolla)

many polishes are just fillers which you then add a layer of wax over the top to bring out the lustre

Ok I need to know the NAME of this colour

Just spotted a few light scratches within this week and I've only had my car for over a month.

Most of the scratches I've found was underneath the door handles, also I've only washed my car once since.

I thought graphite/dark grey metallic would put up with some resistance... But at least it's not as bad as black.

Note: Paint protection doesn't do sh!t...

Paint protection is a sham

A good wash once a week and a polish every 3 months will do more than PP could ever do

but thats a whole different thread all together

I've heard that it is not good to wax the car as soon as you get it. It's good to do it after some months of driving, because when the car is new, the paint hasn't "settled down" and you may cause some damage by rubbing it too hard. There are special waxes for "new car", if you want to wax your new car, it is recommended to use such wax's.

you are sort of correct Alex

New cars are not that new, they have being sitting around the factory awaiting transport to the docks in Japan to awaiting shipping, then when they get to country of sale some more time on the docks til it is transported to either a holding yard of the manufactuer or dealers yard to await sale

You do need to let paint settle and cure which should be 1 month if you have accident damage that is the recommendation as well

after that period wash, polish, and wax away

A colleague of mine just brought a Brand new colt 2010 model compliance plate stated jan 2010 he got it in March

if you are not sure look on the compliance plate it has the date of build

if i drive in freeway at night, normal light can't help me to see. i need to turn on fog light, with is helping alots, when i drive in freeway.

If you can't see far enough ahead using regular lights, that tells me you probably need either 1) glasses; or 2) to slow down.

yep could not have said it better

It's not the black car it is the paint Toyota uses it is crap , I have a corolla that is 2 years old ( blue ) and full of scratches , and I've had other Toyota cars and the same thing , and other people I talk to have the same thing the paint is very thin

HMMM great way to introduce yourself with a first post

I know for a fact that the paint is of high quality but you are right in one regard

The paint layer is thin!

I have seen the new hilux with HORRENDOUS coverage in black and was sent to a Spraypainter to be fixed (read:Full body respray!)

I also think people are being a bit special when it comes to wear and tear on their paint TBH and now that Toyota is having some issues all the naysayers are coming out ready to complain about this and that as well

You have a car it is built to a price, your price is a corolla not a Mercedes or LEXUS quality

So learn to properly detail your car if it is such a problem

1000's of corolla owners on the road happy regardless

I would be using Microfibre cloths TBH

I would give the car a good wash then clay it, wash again and prewax, polish, wax and sit back have a beer and smile

I have a red pearl mitsubishi and a gunmetal blue corolla both are daily's and are showing the wear but a good detail brings them up and hides alot

Quick tip

If you take it to the dealer for a wash and it is an automatic car wash STOP doing it!

It will get more scratches!!

always hand wash your car IMO

How did you come to the conclusion that the paint is poor quality?

1. All black cars will show scratches due to the nature of the colour, not the paint quality

2. what is your washing routine, do you wash your car regularly by hand what do you use etc,

3. Comparing this car to your previous car. was it black too

you give very skant details for your conclusion

I am not defending toyota's quality it just your statement is very inflammatory especially if you are not taking the proper care of your paintwork then expect scratches and damaged paintwork

In fact if its a daily driver well expect damage full stop

have you checked the motor

I would take it to either a dealer or sunroof specialist

this may not be a simple quick fix IMO

Im using Mobil1 5w-30... changing it every 5-7 K...

If it is full syn Mobil 1 you are wasting your money

I will happily take it off your hands as it will be good up til 10k IF its MOBIL 1 and not there new 3000 gear

Sounds correct my friend :)

Though I'd say its more the oil grade than the brand that did the magic ;)

Yep the 10-50W is much thicker and would of course fixed the issue

but oils aint oils

Rocket you got a linky for PM oils ???

The 380 I have has not quieten down with a thicker oil grade though its was on Castrol edge 5-30W (BTW I do not agree that EDGE is as good as they say in any weight)

The Shell helix ultra 10-40w has a high detergent concentration and I am using it for the next 5000kms to give the 380 internals a clean

its been a week and it has already removed sludge and varnish just by the colour of the oil and the economy has increased as well

But it is going to mitsi to see WTF is going on with the engine noise

If your oil is discoloured it is doing its job properly it should discolour over time as it removes varnish and dirt which is than (hopefully) trapped by your oil filter

When you do an oil change oil should come out dark but if you look closer it aint black but a dark brown

if it comes out like honey it aint doing its job properly or it does not have detergents to remove deposits which just like heart disease can clog the channels and then BOOM bye bye engine

Best advice is to learn how to do oil changes yourself and get the best oil you can afford

We put the best fuel in so same should go for oils

Oils cool, and lube an engine (PROTECTION)

Lifted off AMC from a highly regard engineer

It is very hard to get true facts but if you carefully read the advertising drivel they sometimes give the game away. For example Penrite say on their Sin 15 & 25 spec sheet "Even our own SIN 0, 5 and 10 will suffer some shear due to viscosity modifier shear". That tells me Penright's other "synthetics" contain VI improvers so are Gp III based oils, and probably have Gp II base as well.

The other thing is to look at the oil grade and oil volatility (evaporation rate) and price. It is very difficult to make a 0W-40 from a Gp III base. Such an oil could be mainly Gp III but would have some PAO base Gp IV added or di-ester base Gp V added to get down to the 0W rating.

Gp IV PAO oils have very little evaporation. A good Noack number is down around 6-8%. If the evaporation is above 10% then there is a good possibility that there is very little PAO base oil in it. One reason I don't like Mobil 1 0W-40 for road use is its poor Noack of 10.5%. This means it will thicken more as it ages. Mobil 1 0W-40 has PAO Gp IV base fluid but a lot more di-ester and polyol ester Gp V fluids than other Mobil 1 grades. When I say poor that is relative to other Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Many oils have Noack numbers around 14% so thicken much worse as they get used.

As for pricing remember that Mobil have many patents on the process for making PAO(Gulf/Chevron hold some too), and they are the major producers of it. 70% of jet turbine oil is Mobil Jet II and they supply much of the other 30% jet base oil to other blenders. Mobil 1 is over 60% of the synthetic petrol/diesel oil market and Castrol Edge/Syntec and Shell Helix(Pennzoil & Quaker State) have about 20% with fake synthetic. That only leaves about 17-18% for all the rest producing synthetics/Gp III " fake synthetics". Some of those would use PAO from Mobil, Chevron, BP, Hatco, Neste' etc and others would use Gp III base from Shell, Chevron, Neste' and new independents in China and Indonesia. Basically Mobil have a monopoly and control prices. So any oil that's substantially cheaper than Mobil 1 will not be a Gp IV PAO based oil for sure. But also some higher priced oils may not be either.

BTW if you want cheap MOBIL 1 go to Big W $65 always compared to $80+ at SC or ripco

Diesel sound? Sounds like tappet/shim issues...

Well this happens with the 20V squad anyway... Unsure if it directly applies to you guys... Use the correct viscosity and quality oil, your diesel sound should be heavily reduced... Eventually however engine rebuild is a must. Mine stock engine seems to be like this, it lets you know when you're using the incorrect oil (very quickly the diesel sound develops). Since changing the oil viscosity and quality, my "diesel" has been heavily reduced...

When your engine reaches a certain age, sometimes 5,000kms is a little too much, you're Toyota will let you know :)

car was running Castrol Edge 5-30W I felt it was too thin and thats when the noise developed

now runs like a dream on the Penrite

The Penrite did it immediately engine was very quiet after oil change

was running castrol edge 5 30W but OILS aint OILS and it was crap was in the 380 as well edge is not a true syn like Mobil 1

I choose the penrite as it was recomended by a mech who sees this issue all the time he told me penrite semi syn just does a wonderful job lubing the engine and quieting noisy lifters so I did it and it works

Penrite semi syn 10-50

stopped making the rolla sounding like a friggen diesel

my 380 runs 5-50 Mobil one full syn or shell helix

GTLOST

I might take you up on that soon

HID foggies OH YEAH

Yeah AMC

380 crew