tsr

just get $1.50 copper plugs. just remember youll be changing them again when the 5th oil change comes up.

i rather change copper plugs 5 times then to pay 30x for coated plugs.

you shouldnt really have plugs in cars for any longer then 50km sure they still work but they WEAR.

it depends on width not diameter of the wheel.

7" ~+48mm

7.5" ~+45mm

8" ~+42mm

8.5" ~+40mm

im pretty sure those are close enough for a gen4/5 from previous readings. just remember you still need to size correct tyres to avoid guard and strut rubbing.

if you have drumb brake rears you will want slighly less offset on the rears for 7" and 7.5" wheels if in smaller diameters to clear the brakes.

I want to install some 6x9 on the rear shelf. Although this car did not come with rear speakers there is a resess for some 6x9's when looking underneath the shelf. Can anyone tell me if wires are already run for the speakers. The smaller of two two plugs from the stock head unit are for back speakers and run down into the dash but I cant find where they go. Does anyone know if these are hidden on the back shelf somewhere or in the boot? Or do I need to run wires all the way from the head unit?

id seriously consider not installing 6.9's on the standard headunit.

my car came with the wires soldered onto the speaker terminals, no plugs.

if youre after a budget audio upgrade, a new $150 headunit and $100 (even less if you buy a combo at autobarn etc) front 2-way speakers will provide at least 3 times more volume and much better sq.

if thats still not enough then an amp it is.

fyi i run a $200amp (Blaupunkt GTA450), $80 front speakers (DLS B series), $80 6x9's (DLS B series) and a $80 sub (Clarion PA12S). a bloody loud stereo doesnt have to be expensive =)

and if youre wondering also, it all runs off the one amp because this thing is 2 Ohm stable, which lets me run both pairs of right/left speakers in parallel, leaving 2 channels bridged for the sub =)

id reccomend mounting rear speakers to the wooden shelf, not into the metal anyway, unless you plan on sealing it off. the air leak will sound worse then the soft wood shelf which can easily be padded up.

if you want some cheap track wheels (and i really mean track only)

get the lite-5's from tempe tyres.

these will not last long at all if they are use daily on the street as magnesium is a b_ to look after, but if you put em on for a track day then take them off/clean them and store them away, theyll be fine.

just about the lighest wheels you can get, and being magnesium therey nice and strong.

but really, i dont see how you could have a fun track day if thats your WHEEL budget. a nice track tyre in 16" will set ya back about $300/each.

i have access to a pair of 17x9" wheels w/NT555R's (that stick out past the guards) for drag days (these are my mates GTR wheels, but i get to use em too, even though i CANNOT get them to spin or chirp or squeek or anything at all =)

you will have to custom fit projector housings into your current headlights yourself. if you want someone to do it for you expect to pay $500+ for labour alone for that kind of work.

adjustment is done via a screw on the backside of the light housing (in the engine bay). it wont help much because you have no projectors to focus/reflect the beam.

yeah im talking about front and rear struts

and front and rear sway bars

im sayin dont get one get both at the same time

front and back not just back

this is confusing. do you mean struts as in braces or damper/shocks?

rear strut brace is useless on our cars.

as for sway bars, unless youre doing heavy track work then an aftermarket rear is all you need on ANY FWD street/daily car. not to mention that many companies dont make front sway bars are theyre not needed.

adelaide, bridging the gap between perth and the eastern states =)

i wouldve got C Drives if they came in my size =(

so i have to go with the Yoko ADVAN Sport V103's instead.

lol =)

man this is going to cost me $$$$

if you decide to stick with the standard airbox, remove everything before it and run some 3" piping from its inlet to fresh air outfront.

but you newer cars have snorkels already.

overheating is a major concern with all aftermarket piggyback ecu's for all cars =)

good to see some serious work being done =)

im looking at getting a PP SMT-6 for fuel and ignition mapping myself. hopefully SOME workshop in South Australia will be able to assist with tuning. or at least cheap dyno time as there is no real sutable long enough roads here for a street tune.

toyotas standard tuning allows for quite a lot of timing advance and plenty of leaning out of the a/f ratio... just gotta run premium =)

now that you mention it, its probably related to the running in process. if you granny footed it then your power and mileage would be down compared to someone who did it decently =)

just remember a FWD offset wont look like that =)

guys with starcorp wheels, get em checked sometime about a year after you got em, see if they still turn/roll true =)

get us a picture, its not to hard.

if the cables are after the main air metering device, thats where they go with the new intake, if theyre infront of the air filter, same deal (not that they do that).

expect to shell out between $200-300 TOTAL (including a quality filter and labour charges) for a custom intake.

you will have to remove the original airbox/resonator/snorkel yourself.

a reputable exhaust shop will be more then happy to bend you a custom intake.

as for the K&N filter, YES you will notice a difference, because you will be swapping from a dirty paper filter. there is a slight less pressure drop reduction with oiled cotton, at the sacrifice of less filtration.

as for a cold air intake, you will notice a difference (mainly on hot days), but make sure there is plenty of room AROUND the filter for it to breathe, this is the main point. those cone filters with the small shroud around them dont work. this is also why airboxes are so big (ever seen a high performance bike? the air box is almost always bigger then the fuel tank or head of the engine itself, even if the filter elements are small).

i wouldve refused a repair.

if they sent you back in a cab that means something major has been damaged. even replacing or repairing it wont return it to its original integrity.

dont get t-boned on that side again.

i havent seen any real helpful suggestions so heres a few.

clean battery terminals.

check plugs and leads.

try BP Ultimate PULP

- i get 10l/100km avg with BP Ultimate,to 25l/100km with Shell ULP.

DO NOT use cruise control, it actaully takes more fuel as its regulation isnt to spectacular.

cargo, passengers, any extra weight makes a HUGE difference to fuel consumption, in the way of an extra 20-30% more usage for each extra passenger, especially noticible with the auto tranny.

is the car down on performance? if it is, you may have more problems.

Has anyone taken their camry to a track and seen how it performs when given the chance?

ive gone out to malala once. got owned down the straight and out of corners (it was a 'drive' day not a 'race' day though), but managed to keep good entry speeds. good brakes!

...for about 2 laps and then the standard falken tyres and oe brakes carked it.

find a dealer with old stock.

hi =)

this should give it away if the username doesnt =)