freedy1001

Tint mine twice with light black vinyl from fleabag $10 and a year later still going strong

fleabag.

What seller?

Sounds like good advice.

Cheers.

Anyone have experience with one of these 8" ARM11 units?

Are they available locally?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-DVD-Player-Navigation-System-Bluetooth-for-TOYOTA-Camry-2007-2011-Aurion-/271450413118?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f33b4983e&_uhb=1

Cheers,

Freedy

are you going to use coaxial 6x9's? or component? If coaxial, won't that potentially cause a prob having 2 crossovers (the capacitor on the coaxial acts as a crossover), if not, surely it wouldn't be as good single one.. ?

To access the tweeters up on the dash, do you just remove that plastic grill that's about 3x3" in the corner's? (I tried but it was pretty tough, didn't want to break it - you don't have to remove the whole dash do you?)

Didn't know 6x9's come in component setups..?

If not, I think a few have used 6.5" setups, but I recall seeing pics of woofer and tweeter being mounted on a piece of MDF down on the door ...(so what, those setups have 2 tweeters? Wouldn't it be better to just change the one up top to the new aftermarket item, and only have one tweeter and one crossover?)

I'll get the pics up in the next few days.

I used 6.5" splits, they have a crossover built into the 6.5" speaker, and a separate tweeter. So I had to run a new extra cable from the door up to the tweeter.

I completely removed the factory tweeter and crossover altogether. Then replaced this with my split tweeter.

There is a big advantage in keeping a tweeter in the dash rather than the door, that is that the staging of the sound will be significantly better.

You will feel more immersed in the music.

I also installed an amp under the passenger seat, so I had quite a bit of extra wiring to run.

Mainly from the doors to the amp, for source input and speaker return, and also power from the battery, and a remote supply wire to turn the amp on/off with the accessories supply.

Of course an amp is optional, and you will still hear big benefits just from replacing the speakers alone.

Removal of the tweeter grill cover is fairly simple and is covered elsewhere in the forum.

But basically I used a small pocket knife blade to slide down between the grill and the dash and unlatch each clip, then gently lever the grill up from the dash with the same blade.

The trick is that the cover locks in (hinges) on the windscreen side, and lifts up & out closest to you as you are sitting in the seat.

Does anyone know where the crossover for the from speakers is? Is it somewhere on the door or is it on the tweeter?

Isn't it attached to the front tweeters?

Yes, remove the grill above the tweeters, then remove the 2 bolts holding the tweeter assembly, all will be revealed.

The speaker wires actually run from the back of the head unit, to the tweeters / crossover, then from here down to the front door speakers.

I have some pics I took during a recent upgrade I did which I can post if required.

try getting one for a ML350 merc... i enquired about one for my dad as a bday present...

edit: i should have actually asked this up front... which year is your car? is it the facelift?

cause i think they came std with ipod integration... no?

Correct, I use an iPhone 3gs, and iPhone4 with facelift ZR6 (non-GPS) head unit.

Connected to the USB port, it allows full steering wheel controls.

The HU displays track, artist, album info.

HU display also shows playlists, and browse by artist, track, or album.

You can also connect to the HU via bluetooth, but you don't get any interface except for Play/pause on the HU, and volume control on the steering wheel.

My roof rattles. Only noticeable with the moonroof open & below about 60kph.

Actually sounds like a Rolf Harris wobble board.

I went to the local Car Audio store and decided on the speaker setup:

Focal 165VB 6.5" component speaker set

Focal 690CVX 6X9" co-axial loudspeaker set

Soundstream LW4500 amp

STINGER EXPERT ROADKILL RKX4 SOUND DAMPING BEAT DYNAMAT just for the speakers

The guy had installed these in his car and it sounded really good.

Thanks all for the help.

Nice choice with the Focals...on the subject of the 690CVX 6x9,you might have a small mod to do on the boot springs as these are a deep speaker (93mm)...anyway really nice choice mate,good luck with the install. :)

I measured the gap between shelf and tension bars in the boot and it might be just ok. I got them fitted on Monday and hopefully all will be ok.

How did you go with the Focal 165VB 6.5" components in the front?

I ended up going for some quality Rockford Fosgate 6x5 Component splits for the front and some Fushion 5x7's for the rear but Fusions top of the range Powerplant component speakers

AS for the sub i didn’t look any further than VIBE - Vented innovative Bass Enclosure's which are a British brand highly regarded in other parts of the world and only just now becoming big in Australia.

I know that speakers are covered in various other threads here, but can you post links to the specs for these speakers?

Cheers.

Sorry to revive an old thread.

Has anyone installed HID Driving lights on an extra light bar mounted at the front license plate position?

eg

http://www.dnaoffroad.com.au/products.php?product=Unibar-light-mount

http://www.dnaoffroad.com.au/products.php?product=140mm-HID-twin-pack-35W-remote-gear-5000K

Wondering how effective they might be.

So (and yes it was rather petty but a statement none the less) i ventured into a QLD transport office, waited patiently in line, then paid the $40 fine in 5 cents pieces. The girl behind the counter advised me that she couldn't accept it.

I politely informed her she had no grounds to refuse cash payment of this nature and if she had an issue with it to contact Sargeant Zipperhead.

I now carry around the legislation in a laminated folder in the glovebox waiting for the next try hard copper to pull me over so I can have the discussion with him before he writes the ticket. Because once its written you got no hope of getting justice.

According to the Currency Act 1965, coins are legal tender for payment of amounts which are limited as follows:

not exceeding 20c if 1c and/or 2c coins are offered (however, it should be noted that these coins have been withdrawn from circulation but are still legal tender);

not exceeding $5 if any of 5c, 10c, 20c and 50c coins are offered;

not exceeding 10 times the face value if coins in the range 50c to $10 inclusive are offered; and

to any value if coins of value greater than $10 are offered.

The girl behind the counter was quite right legally in refusing payment in that form.

i used those crimp connector things to wire it up. as its only minor power and not a proper stereo.

yeh for the price its awesome. remember its a full headrest. not just the screens. and included dvd too and other things.

to hide the wires. u feed it thru the post hole. u can remove the back cover of the seat (in the presara anyways) by removing two screws from the bottom, and popping off the back panel.

then feed the wires down and under the seat and into the centre console. i wired mine to the accessory port.

Freddo, does your headrest height adjustment still operate correctly?

Or just instal one of these kits and check it all from the drivers seat.

http://www.tyredog.com.au/store/4-wheel-wtpms/4-wheel-tyre-pressure-monitor-0-to-60-psi.html

From memory Toyota offer a similar (OEM) kit on new vehicle orders.

Great Work Freddo! I'm thinking of getting the 9" ones. XTRONS HD903. I hope the screen resolution is good. Its weird that their own official website is more expensive than their ebay store.

Got a few questions for you.

1. How did you get the wire through the seat? just shove it in? :)
   
2. Do you need to disconnect the seat because there are the side airbags on the seats that I'm afraid I might trigger off?
   
3. How did you connect to the 12V power socket? soldering?
   
4. Did you connect to the power socket in the middle console or the cigarette lighter?
   
5. Anything I should know before attempting to install?
   

Thank you.

The screen resolution: 640x234, Brightness: 250cd/m2, Contrast: 500:1.

Very ordinary figures, but good enough for the kids, and for the price.

[*]How did you get the wire through the seat? just shove it in? :)

Yes, in a manner of speaking. I have not received my headrests yet, but I think it would be a simple matter of guiding the wires down inside the seat back.

Perhaps using a piece of dowel rod or similar to help get it down.

[*]Do you need to disconnect the seat because there are the side airbags on the seats that I'm afraid I might trigger off?

It is unlikely that you will accidently trigger the airbags, they have a failsafe system which requires a number of conditions to be met before they will deploy.

Having said that, take care to keep away from that area of the seat internals. You are going to go straight down the back, so should be ok.

[*]How did you connect to the 12V power socket? soldering?

I will be picking up 12V supply from under the centre console by soldering into the wire that goes to the console power socket.

I will then apply heatshrink tube over the soldered area for electrical protection.

[*]Did you connect to the power socket in the middle console or the cigarette lighter?

As above.

[*]Anything I should know before attempting to install?

Depends on what you don't already know?

Some people consider it good practice to remove the main battery connection before doing any electrical work on a vehicle.

Personaly I normally don't, but I would suggest it is a good idea to do this if you are not fully confident and experienced in this area.

When soldering apply solder to the iron first, then apply the iron to the join and add the solder until it runs into the join freely.

It should be a very liquid process.

A good solder joint will be shiny, and have an area of wire filled with solder of about 30mm long. The solder should not be caked on the outside of the wires.

I will take some pics when I do my instal and add them here. Will probably not happen for a few weeks yet.

Anyone tried a can of Glen20?

I used to use this on my XR8 Falcon. Same deal, spray thru the inlet under the passenger side window wiper assembly.

Definitely gets rid of A/C smell.

I guess the obvious risk is paint or plastic damage due to unknown chemicals &/or additives.

Thanks for the reply. I have the rubber strip in the top slot but I wasn't very clear in saying it was the bottom slot that I put the tape over. There is aluminum in the middle third but open for the rest. Is there normally rubber in there as well?

Not being familiar with this particular bar, I can't say for sure.

Maybe if you posted some pics of the whole bar.

It may also be worthwhile to try and get a look at a new set somewhere. For purposes of comparison.

I fixed the bottle noise by putting tape over the slot that runs the width of the bar. I will have a look for any other holes as suggested. These bars win the award for the nosiest bars I have encountered. Another quality Toyota product...

The slot that runs the width of the bar is designed to have a rubber strip inserted along it's full length.

The slot in the bar is there to accept mounting hardware for things like tie-down bolts and ski brackets etc.

The idea is that you cut out a small section of the rubber strip, to allow the mounting hardware to be fitted, and so that strip pushes up flush against each side of the bracket, leaving no gaps.

More importantly, this rubber strip also acts as a surface for carried load items to sit on once they are loaded onto the roof bars.

When used in conjunction with a ratchet strap or similar, they create a friction surface to stop items sliding off the bars under heavy breaking, or in a collision.

You will notice that the roof bars without the rubber strips are a nice slippery smooth surface.

Not good for a load holding device.

Also they protect the items from being damaged on the metal surface of the bars.

I would strongly suggest you try to locate a set of the strip inserts, maybe from Toyota.

They will make life a lot easier, and quieter.

Your tape fix is a good temporary measure, but be aware of the limitations.

I have just fitted some 2nd hand Toyota roof bars and they create an impressive set of wind noises. At about 30kmh it sounds like someone blowing over the top of a bottle. At 60+kmh there is general wind noise and also the bottle blowing noise (but not consistently). To save me time experimenting, has someone else come across this and how did you fix it.

Thanks

Neil

Being a second hand set you may be missing some sealing plugs.

I am not familiar with the Toyota bars specifically, but my Rhino roof bars have rubber grommets which fit into the screw holes once the bars have been attached to the vehicle.

If these are not installed, then you can get wind moving in these areas causing noise.

Any area that is not streamlined will create some noise.

Also be sure the bars are fitted correctly, ie not back to front,

They may be designed to have one surface facing the forward wind direction, and the other side being the trailing edge.

The noise you are describing seems to indicate the first item I mentioned.

Very well done,nice install ...that will help keep the little taka's quiet on road trips. :D

Are you able to confirm the Aurion headrest post diameter?

I have measured mine but am unsure if this supplier is referring to inside or outside diameter.

This seller is offering 10, 12, or 14mm posts.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HD903-Headrest-2-X-9-LCD-Car-TV-Pillow-CD-DVD-Player-/170477834301?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b145503d#ht_9608wt_1167

These are the 9" units. One problem with this set appears to be the lack of a 3.5" headphone socket.

The headphones are IR TX/RX only. Once the kids destroy these IR headphones, they may be expensive to replace.

I would prefer to be able to use a cheap wired set as a replacement down the track.