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djsupersleuth

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Posts posted by djsupersleuth

  1. Hi all,

    I am newbie to the forum and a new owner of Kluger KX-S AWD (just less than one week).

    I am told that it is better to fill 98-octane petrol for the new car.

    Searching the forum, I found 95-octane is also suggested.

    I will drive the car in the city for the most time. I would like to know what is best way to fill petrol? 91, 95, 98 or mix them somehow?

    Your advice is appreciated.

    After seeing at a demonstration years ago of BP Ultimate and how clean it leaves your engine, I will use nothing else both in my leased SSV since new and now the new family Kluger. I think Ultimate is 98 octane.

  2. No, The Altitude from my under standing is a run out model type thing till the end of the Financal year. :blink:

    Not a bad thing for a family like us that wasn't really keen on leather,but got a few options with it :clap:

    Are the Altitude extras something that are done in the factory or are they goodies added locally?

  3. Owner's manual simply states inspection of brakes at every service. Nothing about when change of pads might be due.

    Re. fleet costs: yes service, tyres and maintenance are part of the "package".....but that package is paid for by me and comes from MY pay packet, not my company's. It's part of my salary sacrifice deal, including FBT. So I do get concerned when things are done to the car if I think they might not be necessary.

    I don't understand....

    When I've looked at leasing before, getting servicing, tyres, fuel etc included in the monthly costs seemed so attractive as all costs were covered regardless of how harsh you drive.

    So if you stomp the brakes and take corners fast.... replacing brake pads, machining discs and replacing tyres more quickly than another more conservative driver doesn't matter as you're paying one flat fee.

    Are you suggesting you have to pay for each service individually?

    There are many kinds of leases available - Novated Lease which I suspect Tonster is referring to. With Novated all operating costs as well as financing costs come from your pre-tax salary which will reduce your tax in your highest bracket. And they do package the costs when they sell the lease to you and show all the associated (forecast) maintenance costs. Ultimately you are still coughing up for it (there are no free lunches - it comes down to how you look after your car) Other leases like operating leases usually are paid by your employer and include maintenance. Believe me the whole lease thing is a little like black magic.

  4. ok I will get some pics and post them.

    Here are some pics:

    Driver side

    Hi,

    I bought some side steps off ebay, they stated 2007-2010 in the listing, but on my 2010Kluger Altitude I cannot work out how they are supposed to fit. I've tried swapping the brackets but still no good. I can't even fine holes that the 6mm nut plates are meant to go into.

    Is the 2010 undercarriage arrangement slightly different to 2007-2009?

    Have I been duped?

    I see on ebay that similar steps say 2007-2009, not 2010.

    Any ideas.

    Cheers.

    No they will fit. My car is a 2010 build as well. You need to cut the plastics out a 90mm x 45mm rectangle as you see in my pics - although the instructions I have told me to cut a 1'1/2 by 1'1/2 square section out of the underside of the wheel arch guard. DO NOT do this as it is not required. There are a series of well plugs under the plastics that need to be pulled out (easy once you see them) then you feed the 6mm plate in and along and it drops and locates in place for the install. Be prepared to loose some skin when sticking your fingers in at acute angles trying to start threads etc.

  5. ok I will get some pics and post them.

    Passenger Side:

    Great Pics, thanks for that...

    Is it possible to get a pic of the actual siide step. The tread pattern, how far it sticks out from the side, how is meets the front mudflap etc.

    Thanks in advance!

    Photos of the tread pattern on page 1.

    post-19270-127685649527_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685651182_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685652637_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685656153_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685658417_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685660131_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685661762_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-12768566343_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685676906_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685678375_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685679855_thumb.jpg

    post-19270-127685681492_thumb.jpg

  6. Does anyone know if the genuine ones require the plastics under the car to be cut out? As the ebay ones require this. I'm not too sure whether to proceed.

    Which eBay steps did you buy? I didn't have to cut anything on the ones I had.

    I bought the ones that turn in on the ends - they were linked to earlier in this thread. Update - I started on Saturday and I am a bit of a perfectionist (alot actually) so I lined all the metal to metal surfaces on the bracketry with thin rubber. I then spent a fair bit of Sunday laying on my concrete (cold - still feeling the effects) garage floor to mount the brackets. I figured out pretty quick that the instructions refer/photo of driver's side did not look the same - It is for the Highlander/left drive. So that figured out I took the plastics off and marked them out, cut them and filed/deburred the edges. The front brackets are the hardest and once that was done I could see the finish line. The rear brackets dont need to cut any plastics so straightforward but I didnt have a 19mm deep drive socket so couldnt complete. I like the protection that the side bars will provide the sills and doors from rocks etc. On my 2007 Rav I had a rock flick up and dent this area so hoping the steps prevent this.

    hay mate good job :clap:

    just wanted to know what is says on the plastic step tread and aprox how far they stick out cheers scott :D

    Thanks, I have not unwrapped them from the bubblewrap (unusually in different coloured wraps - one clear and the other green???) yet but will let you know what it says, I am about to go out and get a 19mm or 3/4 deep drive socket to complete the job.

    All done and I have to say they look brilliant, well worth the $360. The quality looks very very good for chinese aftermarket. I would recommend them. A little painful to install the front brackets but the rears and the steps go on easy.

    They have a grip pattern no words.

  7. Does anyone know if the genuine ones require the plastics under the car to be cut out? As the ebay ones require this. I'm not too sure whether to proceed.

    Which eBay steps did you buy? I didn't have to cut anything on the ones I had.

    I bought the ones that turn in on the ends - they were linked to earlier in this thread. Update - I started on Saturday and I am a bit of a perfectionist (alot actually) so I lined all the metal to metal surfaces on the bracketry with thin rubber. I then spent a fair bit of Sunday laying on my concrete (cold - still feeling the effects) garage floor to mount the brackets. I figured out pretty quick that the instructions refer/photo of driver's side did not look the same - It is for the Highlander/left drive. So that figured out I took the plastics off and marked them out, cut them and filed/deburred the edges. The front brackets are the hardest and once that was done I could see the finish line. The rear brackets dont need to cut any plastics so straightforward but I didnt have a 19mm deep drive socket so couldnt complete. I like the protection that the side bars will provide the sills and doors from rocks etc. On my 2007 Rav I had a rock flick up and dent this area so hoping the steps prevent this.

    hay mate good job :clap:

    just wanted to know what is says on the plastic step tread and aprox how far they stick out cheers scott :D

    Thanks, I have not unwrapped them from the bubblewrap (unusually in different coloured wraps - one clear and the other green???) yet but will let you know what it says, I am about to go out and get a 19mm or 3/4 deep drive socket to complete the job.

  8. Does anyone know if the genuine ones require the plastics under the car to be cut out? As the ebay ones require this. I'm not too sure whether to proceed.

    Which eBay steps did you buy? I didn't have to cut anything on the ones I had.

    I bought the ones that turn in on the ends - they were linked to earlier in this thread. Update - I started on Saturday and I am a bit of a perfectionist (alot actually) so I lined all the metal to metal surfaces on the bracketry with thin rubber. I then spent a fair bit of Sunday laying on my concrete (cold - still feeling the effects) garage floor to mount the brackets. I figured out pretty quick that the instructions refer/photo of driver's side did not look the same - It is for the Highlander/left drive. So that figured out I took the plastics off and marked them out, cut them and filed/deburred the edges. The front brackets are the hardest and once that was done I could see the finish line. The rear brackets dont need to cut any plastics so straightforward but I didnt have a 19mm deep drive socket so couldnt complete. I like the protection that the side bars will provide the sills and doors from rocks etc. On my 2007 Rav I had a rock flick up and dent this area so hoping the steps prevent this.

  9. I installed my toyota side steps without any trouble,same ols story once you've done one side the other takes half as long :clap: The instuctions are pretty staight forward. Also help that i used a work hoist.

    No problem with front mudflap touching as they curve in behind the flap nicely :yahoo:

    Does anyone know if the genuine ones require the plastics under the car to be cut out? As the ebay ones require this. I'm not too sure whether to proceed.

  10. I'm now wondering how much I need the 7 seats...considering your price is about $7K under rrp driveaway, can I ask how and where you got that deal??? Impressed...

    I wore the poor bugger down, I actually feel sorry for him!! I will send you a pm on dealership and contact. Western Sydney. He said his manager wasnt happy he let it go for that price - considering it is a April build and May complied vehicle. Now going through the insurance rigmouroll!!

  11. Hello board and boardmembers!

    Stumbled across this great forum last week while researching our new family car. Between what I've read here and taking a loan car home for the weekend from a dealer I'm convinced this is the right one! Got a budget of about $35-38K and this is where I'm trying to figure out which model and options would be best. After visiting two separate brissie dealers who'd advertised AWD models only to learn each were FWD (after much BS), I'll take my chances buying privately. These are the three car types I can get for the above budget:

    2009 KX-R model, 7 seat, FWD, about 30K kms

    2008 KX-R model, 7 seat, AWD, about 50K kms

    2007 KX-S model, 7 seat, FWD, about 70K kms

    I can't figure out which is best, so I guess my questions are about the AWD versus FWD, are the added features in the S model actually worthwhile and how should I take into account kilometers?

    We're a family of four, kids 4 and 2 and while the car is mum's midweek I'm pretty keen to explore a bit of wilderness on weekends plus the annual drive to the snow.

    Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Dan

    Mate I would look for a new one for that money, $38k saw me in a brand spanker this week. Yes it's 2wd and 5 seats but your family can still fit in. Pick mine up on Friday.

    RRP is around $41K - I can't imagine your price was driveaway but well done anyway. We think we really need the 7 seats for other kids and relatives. Enjoy your first weekend driving!

    Driveaway it is!! Thanks will do.

  12. Hello board and boardmembers!

    Stumbled across this great forum last week while researching our new family car. Between what I've read here and taking a loan car home for the weekend from a dealer I'm convinced this is the right one! Got a budget of about $35-38K and this is where I'm trying to figure out which model and options would be best. After visiting two separate brissie dealers who'd advertised AWD models only to learn each were FWD (after much BS), I'll take my chances buying privately. These are the three car types I can get for the above budget:

    2009 KX-R model, 7 seat, FWD, about 30K kms

    2008 KX-R model, 7 seat, AWD, about 50K kms

    2007 KX-S model, 7 seat, FWD, about 70K kms

    I can't figure out which is best, so I guess my questions are about the AWD versus FWD, are the added features in the S model actually worthwhile and how should I take into account kilometers?

    We're a family of four, kids 4 and 2 and while the car is mum's midweek I'm pretty keen to explore a bit of wilderness on weekends plus the annual drive to the snow.

    Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Dan

    Mate I would look for a new one for that money, $38k saw me in a brand spanker this week. Yes it's 2wd and 5 seats but your family can still fit in. Pick mine up on Friday.

  13. Hi, new here. I spent a while negotiating a price for a 2010 build and complied 2wd 5 seat KXR. $38,000 driveaway, from what I gather and what I have been told it's a good price. Sydney. Anyone aware of June deals yet?

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