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RobboNZ

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Posts posted by RobboNZ

  1. I fixed my squeak around the gear shift console much the same way by using a small 20mm strip of U shaped rubber seal cut length ways and packed between the upper and lower plastic sections. Nice job you did though and good to have no more squeaks.

    My 07 Aurion is out of warranty, so the dash rattle was going to cost $600 by Toyota to replace the dash clips. To stop the rattle, I bought a 3 pack of black rubber door stop wedges from a hardware store for $3, cut two of them down and placed one on either side of the dash between the dash and the windscreen. They are visable from inside the car, but from the outside they are hidden behind the black windscreen glass strip. Again, a cheap fix and no more rattles to annoy me.

    Are you able to show some pics of how it looks from the inside? My Prodigy is out of warranty too and getting it investigated and fixed by the Toyota dealer would be too costly.

    Apologies for the delay in replying, haven't been around these parts for some time. :lol:

    I'm not sure if you wanted photos of the gearshift console or the dash? As you are unable to see the rubber strip between the gearshift console, I thought I would post photos of the dash showing the rubber wedges I modified to stop the dash rattle.

    post-20233-0-32149600-1317521666_thumb.jpost-20233-0-33664200-1317521791_thumb.jpost-20233-0-26105000-1317522237_thumb.j

    Hope these help!! :yahoo:

  2. Hi everyone, just an update to let you know where I got with my alternator.

    As the idler pulley was ok with no noise found once removed, I decided the dry bearing noise was from the alternator.

    By draining the radiator, removing the top radiator hose and removing the fan assembly, the alternator was able to be removed easily. No need to remove bumper, front panel, bonnet catch and radiator etc.

    Popped dust cap off alternator clutch pulley and found dry rusty coloured dust covered the outer bearing. As I didn't have the correct SST to remove the pulley, I took the alternator to an auto shop who removed the old pulley and fitted the new Toyota supplied pulley. By the way, the old decoupler pulley part number was 27415-0W010 and has been superseded with part number 27415-0W130. According to Toyota they have had trouble with the original decoupler pulleys (p/no -0W010)(Made in Canada), so had to go to the new version. Hope this helps anyone else with the same issue. :yahoo:

    • Like 1
  3. My Aurion rattles and squeaks big time!!!, coming from the both LH and RH air vents, window vibrating on the dash, middle air con assembly, gear area and my knee touching the edge.

    Drives me nuts! To make things worse Toyota was aware of this reoccurring problem I often complained about and decided to go ahead and order a whole new dash, while I still had 5 weeks factory warranty left. They took their time ordering and my warranty ran out! !! And that’s that I guess,,, ,,

    I've just ordered a few IBM SAS servers, some of the components are wrapped in high quality fire proof sponge and flexible polystyrene, which I'll try and utilise to repel the squeaks!

    I have done the middle interior already and destroyed any squeaks as well as its being sturdier; I’m not feeling to confident doing the dash, because I’d rather pull the whole dash out, which isn’t going to be as easy as the quick release middle int.

    If only they could build the interior with the same flag ship unbeatable quality as the 2gr-fe, 2grfse. A bunch of Trent from Punchies at the Melbourne manufacturing plant! :yahoo:

    doesn't seem right. If I recall correctly, if an issue is brought up during the warranty period then it is still covered by the warranty despite it passing the warranty-end date if awaiting parts.

    +1.

    Anyway, enough of me bragging how my dash is perfect now and it's time to show some of you guys a quick fix to the squeaking that comes from the gear lever area.

    I was annoyed by this squeak as well so I had a look how it could happen and I realised that the top part and bottom part are touching each other and when they meet they squeak.

    So here is what I did today:

    Open the top part and put a foam double sided sticky tape:

    DSCN3882.jpg

    Then cut it to size:

    DSCN3883.jpg

    DSCN3884.jpg

    Then when you put the cover back down it will look like this:

    DSCN3886.jpg

    If you can think or do a better job than me please tell. But so far I'm very happy with this fix and it's stopped the squeaking 100%

    :)

    I fixed my squeak around the gear shift console much the same way by using a small 20mm strip of U shaped rubber seal cut length ways and packed between the upper and lower plastic sections. Nice job you did though and good to have no more squeaks.

    My 07 Aurion is out of warranty, so the dash rattle was going to cost $600 by Toyota to replace the dash clips. To stop the rattle, I bought a 3 pack of black rubber door stop wedges from a hardware store for $3, cut two of them down and placed one on either side of the dash between the dash and the windscreen. They are visable from inside the car, but from the outside they are hidden behind the black windscreen glass strip. Again, a cheap fix and no more rattles to annoy me.

  4. ... I have gone to the effort to produce the Aurion FAQ's at the top of the Aurion forum. If you refered to the FAQ's prior to asking, you would find the following answer:

    Q) Are there any service manuals available to download for the Aurion?

    A) There currently are not any Aurion service manuals that are easily obtainable online for the general public. Luckily however, the Aurion shares a lot in common with the American Specification Gen 6 V6 Camry. This car does however have an online service manual available from: Camry Stuff - Gen6 Manuals the following link:

    07-09 Camry Service Manuals

    Just bear in mind that there will be differences in the manual that is nothing like the Aurion but for a majority of it, and when used as a guide, it is rather useful. The link above to the online service manuals are specifically for the pre-facelift model, however the facelift model is rather similar so the manual can still be of use. As well, for any part number references (no TRD's sorry), you can find the following site useful: http://www.toyodiy.com.

    Threads of interest:

    Service Manuals

    Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. You're correct, I should have looked at the FAQ's before posting, but in my defence, I'm still navigating my way around this site. Finding time to explore is my only excuse. Cheers again. :toast:

  5. Using my spare alternator, it looks like it interferes with the radiator (where the radiator cap is) and the radiator support panel. Of you want to shift it to the passenger side, the oil dip stick tube is then in the way.

    bbe2c1f6.jpg

    2136c658.jpg

    I would be prepared and grab yourself some Toyota coolant (you may need automatic transmission fluid too) ...

    You'll need the non-reusable parts before you start anyway (the ones with the black circles):

    da18fbfe.jpg

    Would you consider a dealer quite for the work?

    Thanks again for your valued input, it is much appreciated, especially you going to the effort of removing your covers, trying a spare alternator for fitment and posting photos. Awesome.

    I have called into my local Toyota dealer this morning for some advice and have now asked them to give me a quote for the work. They believe a days work to remove alt, replace drive pulley and refit. Will see what they quote once I receive the phone call. Unfortunately, the factory warranty ran out last year. My guess is, the alt drive pulley is a wearable item like the idler pulleys, tensioner and belt. By the way, my car has 71k on the clock.

    :unsure:

  6. Thanks 450HP/tonne, for your quick response and removal instructions. Yep, I suspected I could get away with just removing the radiator fans assembly, but now you've posted those instructions, it looks like a radiator removal will be the best option. Do you believe, as per the instructions, that the bumper and front panel removal are required just to get the alternator out?

    Also, do you know where can I purchase an Aurion repair/workshop manual from? Cheers, Rob. :idea:

  7. Hey everyone,

    I am a newbie to this forum. I own a 2007 Aurion SX6 and just recently have noticed a noise on engine shutdown just as the sepentine belt stops turning. After some investigation using a handheld stethoscope, I thought the sound, (which I liken to a dry bearing), was coming from either the belt tensioner, the top idler pulley or the alternator. (Bit difficult to pinpoint as the sound could travel through the belt). I removed the top idler pulley to check the bearing, it appeared smooth and quiet. I removed the dust cover from the idler pulley bearing (6203) and put three small drops of grease and worked into the ball bearings with my finger, then replaced the dust cover. The idler pulley was re-fitted, then the serpentine belt and the tensioner released. I started the engine and shut it down again, unfortunately, the sound was still evident. I have started to remove the alternator, but am having trouble. I have removed all wiring to one side and have removed the two alternator mounting bolts, but it is tight and cannot seem to move it very far towards the front. I can get the alternator front mounting released downwards but then it hits on the A/C pump and for the life of me, the rear mounting is hardly moving. Has anyone removed an alternator from an Aurion and can give me some hints please? While searching online for help, I came across a Gates video on You Tube,

    which I suspect may be the sound I am hearing from the alternator decoupler pulley. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Rob.

    :help:

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