whysmee2

well have it back now and all is good, has new fuel regulator and was done free of charge. on the first day toyota had the car investigating we had the service deparment bosses personal car the new aurion sportivo and when we went back we were given a standard aurion gold class car as replacement until the issue was sorted, so what started as frustration ended up being worth paying to get the 80,000km service done and we will be back to toyota to inform them all is good. with the post about the battery i have heard such and read such before and i guess even though the battery still has reasonable crank amps voltage changes as i understand are a big deal to the computer and i guess such as with the 1988 V6 camry my girlfriend had prior did such

i am not going to say anything bad about the toyota dealership where it is and it could just be a coincidence and not any ones fault, just curious if this has happened to anyone else and do the fuel regulators cause such issue. there was a post about doing the 80,000km service at home that brought me here that i found via google and i was curious if any one else had experienced such an issue as it sounds like it could be fixed under warranty

just had the 80,000km service $640 and after getting it back it struggles to start if left to sit after it has been driven, such as going into a shopping centre and then it takes a few good seconds before it picks up cylinders. it has been back to toyota three times now and at first they had no idea after checking a few things and replacing o rings on the fuel filter, i had a phone call that they think it could be the fuel regulator and so two more days without our car. dose anyone have any knowledge about such?

what model 1964? RK100, RK40 or RK41 if you are a facebook person there is a small toyota stout group on there

i do not know why your fuel ecconomy is so bad and if it is carby related, yet on a old dyna i had with a 5R it's ecconomy went to crap when it started to get tired (dusted on dirt roads) and lost power. the RK110 1979-82 in australia never sold as well as it could have, nor did the cab over steer brother the toyoace. the toyoace was basically the same chassis and drivetrain yet had a diesel option 2L 2.4 and five speed gearbox. in 1985 the toyoace name was dropped in australia and was just a light version of the dyna 2ton that still retained the L series engine for the first year or so before the larger 3B. i am not a dyna toyoace owner and do not know exact details, my dad once had an early 80's L diesel duel cab toyoace that he put a 2.8 3L in . the stouts shared the chassis with the toyoace as long as the stouts themself (1960) and the increasing market for cab oversteer eventually became the stouts demise. myself i think a 3B is to large and have often pondered the 2.2 L diesel (legal) or a 3vz-fe/5vz-fe V6 made to fit the existing stouts gearbox (not legal QLD due to no possible disc brake upgrade) edit the RK110 was not alone as there was a 2200 20R version RK111 that only existed 1979-80 due to the end of production of the 20R. there was also a YK110 that was made until the 8/1993 that had a 4Y engine as the RK110 finished in 1986 with the end of production of the 5R engine.

black wire with yellow stripe is ignition only active and runs from the ignition to the fuse battern, from there it is a smaller wire and powers the coil and the anti dieseling solenoid (if the carby has one) in the engine bay. not all the carby that were fitted to the 5R had anti dieseling solinoids, yet they had the wires for it as it also has a white with a black stripe that continues on to the charge regulator/alternator. oh due to location the anti dieseling wire tends to get shorted with the battery terminals and it is not until the fuse blows the wire smokes when the key gets turned on before the realization of opps that was wrong, as if the carby dose not have the anti dieseling " it stops fuel through idle jets" the wire seems to have no home.

Hi there, Sorry to bring up such an old post. But me and my partner have just picked up a 68 lite stout for 200$,and are really struggling to find any information on it, we aren't 100% sure what engine it originally came out with so any information would be great. the "lite" stout had four engine options, early models 1962-67 had either a 2R 1500cc but mainly 3R 1900cc, the later 1968-79 had either 12R 1600cc or 5R 2000cc. the later models were not as common in "lite" stouts as they were basically a hilux with a stouts cab (the first hilux were basically a lite stout with a hi luxuary cab) and so most of the early hilux bits were able to fit them (front disc brakes), it was the pre hilux versions that were sold in the USA 1964-68 that are the most common lite stouts even in australia. one thing that was common is date of production to actual year model, being a 1968 is it an early or late model, as my 1962 RK45 was built in 1960.

the earlier models had a generator and the later alternators, the basic functions are the same ish colours eg turn signals, lights but that is it. what colour is your burnt wire, plus location and i can tell you what it dose, as one common fault with the stouts is brighter headlights being fitted than were factory and the power supply is unable the extra load and in the earlier models nor could the light switches.

i have seen this question a few times and i have not seen one, nor has anyone else that has commented. what i have done myself was in fitting a 1962 cab on a 74 chassis is strip both looms and grafted them together, so if i can help

the 5R was at it's most economical speed @ 80km/h and peak HP @ 95km/h some fitted five speeds out of later model toyoace's, coasters and dyna but it put the engine out of wack and most i have heard about simple state not to waste the time doing so. pending your planned use but larger tires such as cruisers 750 16" or 31X10.5R15 can help

what is it you would like to know, i have a 1962 toyopet stout on a 1974 toyota stout chassis and a 1976 toyota stout. brake shoes and brake master and slaves are the same as 40-45 series cruisers, the diff centre is ment to be the same as the stouts, as there ratios were sought after for rock crawling, so the cruiser 4.1:1 suposedly bolt in "diff locks" to replace the stouts 6.1:11 diff ratio. the two downfalls of the stouts are the location of the handbrake as it is on the gearbox and not on the rear axle and state laws might mean that a gearbox swap is limited because of such. the other is the limited room in the engine bay that is even more restrictive in the full stouts due to the location of the steering box and the steering column makes V engines challenging with exhaust manifolds. i read however monday that as a sales pitch toyota stated that the stouts engines with regular service Guarantee 300,000 miles

i hope you realize that in queensland if you modify a car from factory so often a blue plate is needed and every such legal modification has a code. one of the biggest downfalls of the stouts here is the location of the hand brake drum, as it is on the gearbox and as i understand only a gearbox of such a configuration can be used, as to move the hand brake to the rear axle there is no code and so not a legal option.

the biggest downfall is a hand or park brake. most gearboxes the 5r motor was fitted to the hand brake drum is mounted on the gearbox . where i live in queensland only a gearbox of such configuration can be used, as a modification to move the hand brake to the rear axle is a pain and not legal. the 5R motor has a removable half bell housing, unlike the 3R and 12R which have a half bell housing cast as part of the engine and with the 5R because of this makes an engine swap a little easier. when a holden or ford motor is fitted in a dyna to replace a 5R a alloy adapter ring is used, this replaces the removable half bell housing. when i was in high school i did work experience at an engineers and he made adapter rings to fit different motors into tractors, cars and VW buggies using a automated oxy acetylene set up that could follow a black line drawn onto white paper. he would trace the outline of the gearbox bolt pattern and the same of the back of the motor and the machine would cut them out of plate steel in seconds and he made it look easy. personally i have a 1962 toyopet stout fitted with a 5R motor, timing chain version (there is a timing gear version that has more issues prone to failure) the motor came out of a dyna truck that had over 900,000kms on the clock and has never been touched apart from a head gasket. the timing chain version is virtually indestructible and offers the same HP and torque as a 22R and to rebuild or replacement of the 5R would be my option . the quickest and easiest way to tell the difference between timing chain and timing gear is to feel under the exhaust manifold the PCV positive crank ventilation, as the timing chain version the breather has two bolts that hold it in place and the timing gear version the breather just pushes into a round hole. my goal one day would be to fit a little SC14 supercharger off a jap import at low boost and this would give more power at less cost than any engine conversion and as the 5R are built to use LPG unlike any replacement engine would be

i have a 1962 and with most of the toyota R family the clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit is standard as it is only the casing that changes. going back a few years ago i had a 1969 dyna truck "ex nullabor mail delivery" and i went to a place on the gold coast called global auto spares, the rebuild kit cost $5 and was the two rubbers, in and out and the alloy piston. the man said it was a very common kit as all hiace, hilux, and so on with the same size slave use the same kit

the 2R,3R,5R all had an auto gear box option in the crowns and coronas, the thing is the stouts had the hand brake drum mounted on the back of the gearbox that the tail shaft bolted to unlike most gear boxes where the tail shaft is a yoke and spline. i live in queensland and under queensland mod laws i have not found an option to get around the hand brake issue, as using a hand brake system that operates off the rear wheel drums is not legal. http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications.aspx