R31

Hell of an overhead but I get where you're coming from, cheapest from a local auto parts was 310. So the moral is supply your own parts to the mechanic? 

 You think so? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kelpro-Power-Steering-Pump-KPP109-/252025456795?

 

Bought a nice conquest 190k kms but later found out the previous idiot p plater ran out of fuel and moved the wheel side to side to get as far as he could with no engine power severely wearing the pump (leaking,noisy) and rack mounts to the point of being scary driving around 80-100km country roads with the rack moving all over the place

Quoted to fix

pump $492
rack kit 46
rack boots 50
remove/replace it all 396

Is that pump price a bit over the top to anyone? and is it worth just buying an ebay pump for the age of the car?

How would I do that myself for in the future? I've heard of tests that check for exhaust in coolant but no idea where to buy it. After 6000kms it still runs fine so I threw some sodium silicate through it a few days ago for the hell of it and the bubbles stopped in the overflow so a bit of good news.

Anybody know from experience if I can remove it without taking too much else off? I really dont want to have to remove alternator/engine mount.

EDIT: all sorted, stanley knife works too.

12 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

I would start by getting the cooling system rebled.

Did he perform a cylinder leakdown test?

I believe so, my leads were all tangled afterwards. Ive done another 3000ks since then and it wont give up.

If you bypassed the original constant on power wiring and its still the same then the radio itself is stuffed. You could use a computer PSU to confirm that on the fujitsu. Another option is eliminate wiring problems by running your radios acc to the cig lighter instead of original wiring and use your other wire straight to the battery for memory and see what it does.

First thing to check is whichever wire that provides memory has enough voltage, you may have a short or the radio is fried. See what it does with a multimeter attached. You can easily run another wire but just grab a headunit it will save a lot of hassle.

Sounds like he was too stoned as he forgot to plug the injector back in he fixed aswell. Had fun limping up the road home.

I'm getting air bubbles in the overflow after flushing recently (new rad cap also). I drove about 1000kms and still had bubbles and a mechanic reckons he did all the tests but could give me no info other than cylinder 4 is leaking exhaust. It has never overheated afaik, no power loss after doing 40000 on it in total and it somehow still runs smooth. Should I get another opinion or could it be something other than a headgasket problem? 

On 13/12/2015 at 8:30 AM, Jim. said:

On 30/11/2015 at 5:53 PM, R31 said:

"Ended up finding the injector wiring had split and shorted from rubbing behind the manifold somehow, eventually killing the injector. Ever heard of that happening on this series Trent?"

I am curious about this as I would have expected that a shorted wire (most likely unsupported as Trent asked) would have damaged the output stages of the ECU and not the injector.

After all, the injector is just a coil driven device activated by an impulse from the ECU output, is it not? A short circuit across a coil does nothing adverse.

You're 100% right, the injector was fine once the wiring was fixed. The auto elec insisted it was stuffed for some reason.

Ended up finding the injector wiring had split and shorted from rubbing behind the manifold somehow, eventually killing the injector. Ever heard of that happening on this series Trent?

#2 is ****** fuel into the cylinder while #3 has a weak pulse and they share the same coil pack. I replaced both packs anyway and tried another ecu but nothing. Also noticed fuel dripping from exhaust flange near the motor since this all started today, would this make it run like **** aswell? Any ideas before I suck it up and take it to the auto elec?

Throw a k&n in or plumb a pod filter inside the air box like I did. Plugs,leads, fuel filter,drop all fluids and clean the tb. Usually livens them up after all these years but its a 5sfe in a heavy camry it will always be slow.

Ive picked up a wrecked CSX and want to replace all four doors to the CSI as mine are flaking badly. Does anyone know if the central locking wiring is all the same and if the window power is already wired into the CSI?

Thanks for the answers everyone I have found a few threads describing my problem after searching torque converter

I do a lot of country driving and it only happens in top gear (70-90km/h) and gets worse depending on the incline. Its like I have to give it more throttle then it needs so it wont drop a few hundred revs. I'm sure it's been there as long as I've owned it but is annoying me a lot lately.

I occasionally get a CEL camshaft posistion sensor code, it might stay off for a week or two, flick on and off for another week but the car hasn't missed a beat at all so I havent worried about it except clearing the code.

Hi I have a auto 99 4 cyl that can't maintain a constant rpm. e.g. coasting then accelerate to desired rpm and it will suddenly drop by 200-400 rpm with a low to moderate load, labouring the motor slightly. It drives great for 230k kms (cambelt done at 206) and after doing the usual service oil,fuel/air filter,plugs and leads,ATF/diff oil recently I'm all out of ideas.