Cam93

I actually just bought new tires about 2 weeks ago, I have a 04 Sportivo 2.4, it had 195 supercat tires on it when i bought it and they were terrible, I then bought a set of 235 XR6 wheels which had the Michelin Pilot Sport 3s on it and the difference was incredible, but they can be quite costly and they're a softer compound so they wear fairly fast, I went to Jax and ended up getting a set of Hankook Ventus V2 Concepts with the buy four get get $100 off, cost me $380 + $66 for a balance. Now I'm not saying they're as grippy as the PS3s, but if the supercats were a 1 and the PS3s were a 10, I'd say the Ventus V2s would be a 7, definitely good value, plus they're a lot quieter than the PS3s.

tl;dr Can recommend the Hankook Ventus V2 Concepts from Jax Tires, $120ea + $100 off a set of 4, pretty grippy, won't wear as fast as softer performance tires and will be quieter.

Plus Hankook will replace a tire for free if gets damaged from a road hazard.

On 05/07/2016 at 10:02 AM, TIDYWAZZA said:

Looks good, did you use alloy or nylon spigot bushes in the hub mounts ? 

I ended up getting alloy hub centric bearings. Did it properly, got the wheels balanced and worn bushes replaced all at once. 

Booked in for Tuesday to get the XR6 wheels fitted and balance properly with the centre bearings as well as some bushes replaced with nolathane ones, some dust boots and the water pump replaced.

Also repainted the grille and in the front valance black, pretty subtle, im happy with how it turned out.

dude wtf, take it easy, theres no need to get so aggressive. Im trying to ask for help and you go and condescend me like a child that knows nothing, please dont comment on my posts if youre going to talk to me like that

Right, so im guessing this is something that usually needs changing when you put different wheels on it if the centre hole is bigger?

i dont have a clue, ive never changed them, the XR6 wheels just bolt straight on, what do the spigot bushes do?

So what started out as a bit of a joke, my mate had some XR6 wheels he was trying to sell. Figured that since they were the same stud pattern as my Camry, we'd chuck them on to see how stupid it looks.

Well they fit and didnt hit anything at full lock and they dont look half bad, they even look kind of factory, so we put all four on and took it for a drive. An extra 30mm wider on each wheel (205 to 235) and some quality rubber, I could tell the difference immediately. No longer chirping at 3kRPM (used to have Supercat tires, they were awful) and sticking in corners when I would have definitely understeered before.

Needless to say, for $200 I just bought myself a set of 17" XR6 wheels. Cheap upgrade that'll give a noticeable difference to the 36 series Camrys.

(Side note, no longer looks like a boat either which is a big bonus)

Awesome, how much should a set of used callipers set me back?

As for the Kluger upgrade, is it as simple as going to the wreckers, asking for a pair of Kluger front callipers, then getting Kluger discs and pads? Or is there anything else I will need to get or need to know?

So uhh, Toyota decided that yes, I do need a new window motor, at a cost of $812. Eight hundred and twelve dollars. Replaced the car battery which was on its way out (not taking/holding charge very well), what do ya know, the window is working fine now.

Thanks, looking on ebay, they seem to be different between the front and rear doors, but fairly cheap if I do have to replace it

Just realised I have a spare door sitting there, would I be able to swap the motor from the old rear drivers door into the drivers door?

On 03/04/2016 at 10:10 PM, trentmeyer23 said:

I would assume you are over the gap or the range then?

Soz man didn't get a notification, I'm in Toowoomba.

On another note, my driver's side electric window winds the window down really slowly, sometimes coming to a stop after about an inch. Does anyone know if I would need a new motor or if I just need to clean something in the door, it has had the recall done, not sure when though.

What did you think of the UR Strut Brace? I constantly see posts from UR about them on Facebook, wondering what the quality is like, did you notice much difference and was it worth the price? Thanks Ashley and welcome

Gatton, Oakey, Pittsworth and Leyburn, maybe take it out to Morgan Park as well on the Wednesday Free Practice sessions.

Completely stock, nothing special, but tossing up whether or not I should enter into some of the local street sprints. In order to do that, I would do the Kluger brake upgrade with some slotted DBA discs (I'm a DBA fanboy alright), new bushes all round, they're on their way out anyway, a bit of strengthening, people seem to recommend upgrading the rear sway bar for best results and finally a second set of wheels wrapped in semi slicks. It won't be fast or competitive, but it will be a good bit of fun for a reasonable price.

By no means is it in mint condition, was a family car previously, looks like it's been reversed into carpark walls a few times, roof paint faded, spoiler clear coat peeled off (looks matte now), rear drivers door been replaced after being opened on a pole, it's now a darker shade of red with an unpainted handle from I think, a non-sportivo camry. Plenty of chips and scratches on the front, more marks that look like it hit something, plenty of marks in the doors from hitting other cars and other car doors hitting mine.

Fixed the clock in the center console today, couple of solders needed touching up, there's a how-to in the Camry section somewhere, follow those instructions, ez-pz. Next on the DIY list, restoring the headlights and reattaching the foglight that hasn't been clipped in properly.

On Monday, August 25, 2014 at 6:39 PM, Muz bar said:

Okay so ive got a 2005 model and it was different to the video above.

I took photos of what i did to get it done wasnt to hard and it worked.

To open it start from the bottom of the cd area as shown in picture.

Then it should pop out slowly pull it out.

Then disconnect the clock and speed alert wires.

Then undo to phillip head screws to remove from console case.

Once removed then remove 6 im not sure what there called hexagon screws i guess

Then check all the chips. I had no idea what to look for.

Then i noticed these four chips had a brownish tinge to it so i touched them up.

Then tested it and worked.

Ive never used a soldering iron before it wasnt that hard.

Just becareful with the little clips on the clock case as i broke two out of four.

Take your time and good luck.

Can confirm this works (deleted pics from quote to save room). I've never soldered before but have seen others do it and I managed to do it just then, can pick up a soldering iron for $21 at SCA and a small roll of solder for $8. Look for a hex set as well, improvising was not easy.

6 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Throw some Kluger front calipers and rotors in. Direct bolt on, big brake upgrade.

Thanks for the tip! Will definitely look into it.

3 hours ago, KAA said:

so...mmm..the shots with the damage was what?...and yes as Trent said the Kluger upgrade straight forward option for you

KAA

That was my parents 2001 Camry they had for 14 years, written off in 2015 by a red P plater that lost control of their ute going around a corner in the wet, panicked and floored it instead of braking, ramming our car, forcing it up the gutter onto the footpath into a telephone pole and parking sign. Here's the kicker, all they suffered was a broken headlight, but at least they weren't hurt and it was an accident, they weren't trying to drift or anything, just inexperienced.

(Ding in the rear bumper is from a previous excursion my mother had with another reversing driving in a carpark haha)

Awesome, thanks, I went back and double checked the service book to make sure I wasn't trippin, it does indeed say to change the TB on the 1MZ @150k. Little surprising it says 150k instead of 100k but eh.

27 minutes ago, Hiro said:

 

That's not your timing belt - the 2AZ runs a timing chain.  That is just the accessories/serpentine belt.  A hell of a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a timing belt, might as well change it just for peace of mind.

Alright, thanks Hiro, does the 1MZ run a belt? Could have sworn the service booklet said replace belt at 150k which was for the 1MZ, or I could be wrong haha. Should the chain ever be replaced? Will Toyota inspect it if requested?

Bought my Camry at 178k, currently at 185k, original owner was a "mechanic" before previous owner, no sticker saying when TB was done, no record in service book of it being done. Judging by the look of it now and the fraying on one edge, is it bad enough that I should ask for it to be changed when I get it serviced in the next couple weeks or is it okay and just wait until 200k?

(Notice the fraying on the belt around the pulley also)

Hi guys, I'm Cameron,

For nearly 15 years our family car was a 2001 Camry CSi which never let us down until it was totalled in 2015 when it was hit by someone out of control in the rain. So when my own car (a BMW E30) started to die and became a project car, I turned straight to a Camry for a daily and picked up a manual 2005 Sportivo 2.4 with 178,000kms for a really good deal. It was a family car before I bought it, so small scratches, fading and a mismatched door is to be expected, but otherwise it runs really well, minus the horrid Supercat tires on it that chirp at just 2.5k RPM. 

Done about 7,000kms since November and left it completely stock for now, but modifications in the future are definitely going to happen, starting with new front brakes, upgrading to a set of DBA T2 slotted rotors and bendix pads, as well as new bushes all around (which are on their way out according to Pedders), followed closely by a new headunit that I can actually connect devices to.