B18civic

Any help guys????

What are the numbers this motor should get??? To tell that the compresion is still healthy??

You missed out on the best legs hahahha... Rocko to morley was pretty awsome..

Yeah that was a fun cruise....

Chucked out my K&N pod... got a panel filter and fitted the panel filter with top half or air box in my front bumper using a longer intake pipe... Thats it...

I disagree with the theory that Different air intakes dont make much difference... I have tried different air intake setups on my civic at the track... and the slowest for me was stock air box stock air intake pipe lenght( no responce no High rpm power) What has worked best for me is adding 20inchs off lenght to inlet pipe(3inch) and using the top half of my stock air box connecting the the 3inch pipe to it. Placing the panel filter infront of the wheel facing thefront bumper and having 3 slots where air can come in... difference between stock air intake (box, pipe) to the CAI i made up at the track is high 14s to real low 14s and 93 94mph speeds to 97 98mph... With out tuning using a stock Japanesse map... Maybe the japanesse map works better with longer intake, but the JDM ITR runs 2.75 inch pipe with a closed inbox pod... Im sure my CAI can be fine tuned to make a bit more... but hardly worth it

Went to track today ... new PB 14.1@98mph....

10kw difference after tune THATS AWSOME... MAkes me wanna go get my PFC tuned hahah.. $185 for a tune at this workshop near my place...

Is this another toyota only members cruise???

I got same ratios as B16B (CTR) but no LSD... Gonna get a 4.9 FD soon... and a LSD

14.321 again... 60ft 2.206 330 6.076 660 9.248 1000 11.981 4th gear kills my times..... need ratio upgrade..

I totally agree.. stripping out a car to run quik times is only lying to ur self bout ur cars performance...... I dont even remove the rubbish from my car when i go to the drags.... All the times i have run are as if my car was on the street,,,, 25psi in my tyres aswell... Getting a N/A car to go faster may cost more.... But the sound a motor makes at 8000 - 9000rpm is music to any 4cyl fan!!!!

That is a very ignorant comment to make... You have obviously been at Binladens for a few years..... Do a bit of research and you will see that not only in the US but here in AUS theres a ALOT of mildly moded (not race, but street) cars running low 12s N/A 2.4lt and under.

PSI what turbo???? its not about what psi.... Turbo tune fuel are all factors... 9psi on a stock 1zz with a t25 is nothing but if not tuned correctly be prepared to buy or build in a few days time... Look at xoom's setup... thats the way it should be done... Ive know ppl that go Fi in their NA cars with out going the whole 10yards and it always ends in disater... Mate was using microtech (microwreck) he went through 4 builds.... I did a turbo setup n B18c (did everything but internal build) ran fine in winter but in summer i was very unstable... heat is a big killer in non factory FI cars.... I spent more than 8k on just parts... And still didnt run 100% for me.. If ur not goin to put away for internals and lots of hours on a dyno then dont bother mate... the end result wont be a S15 wrx skyline equivalent... U might aswell sell ur corolla and buy a turbo factory car.. it will be cheaper and more reliable at the end unless ur gona go all the way with ur motor too.... toyota makes great motors but they are designed from factory to be NA.... Plus N/A is so much sweeter with a high reving motor... N/As can make power u just gotta have the right combo of parts and a good tuner... its not all about top end power... gear ratios can be adjusted changed to have a very potent N/A monster track and street....

At the biggining of this thread u said u were building a sleeper.. And wanted to chop ppl and them ask ya if its turbo???? Now ur goin the opposite way....??? And then ur tellinmg ppl your car does so and so to a 100... i can see all that ur saying will end in tears... After u install the turbo i give u 1 month before u blow the Sh%^& out of ur motor...