Red_V_Roger

The flat alloy washers are used for the gearbox because it's mating surface is the machined cast body of the gearbox, whereas the crush washer for the diff is used because the mating surface is not machined flat.

When you tighten the crush washer it will flatten slightly. You MUST replace this type of washer with a new one every time it is removed.

I always replace the alloy ones as well, but if they are in good condition you should get away with using them again.

If the gearbox filler plug, washer and mating surface are in good condition there is no way it can leak so the oil must be coming from somewhere else.

I wouldn't recommend using any tape or sealant at all, the proper washers will give you an oil tight seal.

STILL having problems, I tried replacing the Toyota flat washer with a sort of fiber/gasket washer and as soon as it got warm, it just flowed out. So now I've used the differential crush washer and its back to how it was before - a few drips coming out when it gets warm.

I can't think of anything else now but to get a new flat washer and try some type of gasket paste.

After changing the gearbox oil on my 1992 2.4L 2RZ 2WD petrol manual carb Hiace Camper…its leaking oil out of the filler/level plug..!

Yes first time I did it, I re-used the crush washer, but now I’ve replaced both the plug and the washer with genuine Toyota and tightened it as mush as I dare and yet I’m still getting a leak.

If its on a level surface then surely the oil will be below the filler so it can’t leak – but it is! only a few drips, but a definite leak.

Is there some kind of gearbox breather that could be blocked and causing an over pressure?

Other interesting thing is that I also bought a new filler plug and washer for the differential at the same time. Whilst the plug is the same, the differential uses a different type of washer. The gearbox is a plain flat washer, but the diff. is a more formed half round affair.

Any suggestions on using PTFE tape on the threads, different type of washer, liquid gasket paste, etc?

OK, so yesterday morning while nursing a bit of a hang over, I decided to change the rear differential oil in my 1992 Hiace 2.4L Camper for the first time in my ownership.

So I got her up on the ramps and opened the drain no problem. Then I tried to open the fill plug and the sod is stuck tighter than you know what. So a trip to the DIY store to get a gas blow torch and add some heat did nothing. Now the fill plug is rounded and stuck solid.

Remember - undo the fill plug before opening the drain...

Anyway, for now, I don't have the time to try to get one of those bolt removal sockets to shift it or weld a nut on to extract it, etc. so here's what i did...

I got along piece of flexible pipe and managed to tighten it up in to the drain hole, so it was just about leak tight. Then I put a funnel on the other end and fastened it high up outside the camper. Then over the next hour or so, very slowly managed to pour the 2.2 litres of oil (plus a bit extra to allow for the volume in the pipe and the few drips I lost) upwards in to the diff. I guess that the air is displaced through the diffential breather. Then very quickly pulled out the pipe and stuck the plug back in with almost no loss of oil. So, assuming that my handbook is right and 2.2 litres is the correct amount of fluid....hopefully I wont have to look at it again for another 40,000Kms.....?

Engine Oil Capacity including oil filter is 4.5 Litres...

Spark Plug gaps will be on a sticker close to the engine and it will also tell you the timing specs, firing order, etc, etc, etc...

Most of the information you want can be found in the owners manual that comes with the car... It's all in the back in the DIY and Specs sections...

Changing brake pads is a pretty basic procedure, take wheels off, undo lower caliper bolt, remove brake pads, open bleeder nipple and squeeze piston back all the way in... Tighten bleeder nipple, install new pads including the anti squeal shims and any interchangable clips on the old pads... Tighten caliper bolt, repeat process for other side of vehicle then bleed brakes and away you go...

Drive the car at around 60kmh, stomp on the brakes hard and release the brake pedal when you feel the car is just about to stop... Do that a few times and thats how you bed the new pads into the disc and you're all done...

Thanks for advice - the previous owner has told me that he has now found the owners manual - so that should give me a few pointers at least - still wonder though if there is a full manual available anywhere...?

Hi Guys,

I hope that this is the right place to post this?

Anyway, I'm now the proud owner of the above and would like to do some of my own service work before I take her out...

I'm thinking oil change, plugs, filters, brake pads, etc...

Now I haven't got any manual/workshop book for her. I've looked on the Haynes site and elsewhere, but can't find anything beyond about 1989 models.

Is there anywhere I can buy a manual that will give me basic service info like oil capacities, spark plug gaps, procedure for chanigng brake pads etc. There are so many of these things on Oz roads, I'm guessing there must be something?

Thanks,

Hi Guys,

I hope that this is the right place to post this?

Anyway, I'm now the proud owner of the above and would like to do some of my own service work before I take her out...

I'm thinking oil change, plugs, filters, brake pads, etc...

Now I haven't got any manual/workshop book for her. I've looked on the Haynes site and elsewhere, but can't find anything beyond about 1989 models.

Is there anywhere I can buy a manual that will give me basic service info like oil capacities, spark plug gaps, procedure for chanigng brake pads etc. There are so many of these things on Oz roads, I'm guessing there must be something?

Thanks,