julian040859

I have searched on the net and found that if you floor the accelerator and crank the engine the computer knows you engine is flooded and shuts down the injectors to clear the flood. I still dont know why this is happeneing of late when it never did before, even if I stalled the engine.

I have owned my 2007 Prodigy since new. In the last 6 months I have stalled the engine 3 times by attempting to drive off with park brake on. I try to start the car and it runs for a few seconds then stalls at idle without any load. The only way to get it going again is by leaving it for 5 minutes and then it starts fine again. In the old days with carburetor engine cars, if the engine was flooded you would keep your foot flat to the boards, crank the engine and it would start. Why is this all of a sudden happening and what is the best way to start a modern engine, assuming it has stalled and flooded?

I forgot to say, I get the steering shudder at around 100kmh after several hard braking episodes. So it seems that when the brakes disc get hot they create the shudder. I dont get any pulsating effect on the brake pedal as if the brake piston is going in and out. Could it be anything else like, ABS or piston problem.

I have a 2004 Sportivo 2.4lit. I get the shudder while breaking at around 100kmh but only sometimes, Could that still be the discs need machining or an ABS or brake piston problem given it is intermitent?

Easy try this link http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/17039-ultra-racing-strut-bar/page__hl__%20sway%20%20bar%20%20julian040859__st__345 Page 24 etc

Hey guys

I'm rapt I found this thread, this knocking noise was bugging me so much!!!!

Has anyone had the TSB fix at a dealer? Care to let me know how much you paid?

I called Lane Toyota in VIC, quoted $200 all up, seems steep to me for some grease and light work...

Can I get this done somewhere other than a toyota dealer cheaper?

Thanks

Hi,

I've had my intermediate shaft changed some 1-2 yrs ago under warranty. Since then warranty has expired. Lo and behold, the noise is back, and I'm pretty sure it's the intermediate shaft again (exactly the same symptoms as described in this thread as well as those experienced last time they fixed it).

I suppose this time the repairs would be out of my own pocket right? Not sure of the fine print in warranty repairs, perhaps the repairs are warrented for 12 months only, and not the life of the car? If this is a common/known problem, wouldn't it be categorised as a design defect, and therefore Toyota liable to either come up with an improved part to permanently fix the problem, or repair it at their own expense? This isn't exactly a 'consumable' part.

I noticed the mention of the technical bulletin which no longer requires changing the part (I guess it was motivated by the cost of warranty repairs ). Does anyone know what the Toyota dealers would charge to perform the work outlined in the bulletin (whatever it entails)?

Thanks.

Pretty unlucky to get the same problem less than two years later. Perhaps the new fix will be better than the original change of parts?

My Prodigy has been booked in to get the steering checked, in the last week the problem is now more than just when turning, it is evident when you slow down then accelerate without using brakes. The knock and vibration is felt through the steering column. I've had it on jack stands and with no engine on, I can clearly hear the noise near where the shaft connects to the control valve housing sub assembley. If that is where the problem is, why would you get the sensation when not turning the wheel, but slowing down and accelerating?

I finally had the fix as per the TSB, all good now, amazing what a bit of grease does.

Hi,

I've had my intermediate shaft changed some 1-2 yrs ago under warranty. Since then warranty has expired. Lo and behold, the noise is back, and I'm pretty sure it's the intermediate shaft again (exactly the same symptoms as described in this thread as well as those experienced last time they fixed it).

I suppose this time the repairs would be out of my own pocket right? Not sure of the fine print in warranty repairs, perhaps the repairs are warrented for 12 months only, and not the life of the car? If this is a common/known problem, wouldn't it be categorised as a design defect, and therefore Toyota liable to either come up with an improved part to permanently fix the problem, or repair it at their own expense? This isn't exactly a 'consumable' part.

I noticed the mention of the technical bulletin which no longer requires changing the part (I guess it was motivated by the cost of warranty repairs ). Does anyone know what the Toyota dealers would charge to perform the work outlined in the bulletin (whatever it entails)?

Thanks.

Pretty unlucky to get the same problem less than two years later. Perhaps the new fix will be better than the original change of parts?

My Prodigy has been booked in to get the steering checked, in the last week the problem is now more than just when turning, it is evident when you slow down then accelerate without using brakes. The knock and vibration is felt through the steering column. I've had it on jack stands and with no engine on, I can clearly hear the noise near where the shaft connects to the control valve housing sub assembley. If that is where the problem is, why would you get the sensation when not turning the wheel, but slowing down and accelerating?

Hi,

I've had my intermediate shaft changed some 1-2 yrs ago under warranty. Since then warranty has expired. Lo and behold, the noise is back, and I'm pretty sure it's the intermediate shaft again (exactly the same symptoms as described in this thread as well as those experienced last time they fixed it).

I suppose this time the repairs would be out of my own pocket right? Not sure of the fine print in warranty repairs, perhaps the repairs are warrented for 12 months only, and not the life of the car? If this is a common/known problem, wouldn't it be categorised as a design defect, and therefore Toyota liable to either come up with an improved part to permanently fix the problem, or repair it at their own expense? This isn't exactly a 'consumable' part.

I noticed the mention of the technical bulletin which no longer requires changing the part (I guess it was motivated by the cost of warranty repairs ). Does anyone know what the Toyota dealers would charge to perform the work outlined in the bulletin (whatever it entails)?

Thanks.

Pretty unlucky to get the same problem less than two years later. Perhaps the new fix will be better than the original change of parts?

A technical bulletin was issued to all dealers recently, with a repair method that doesn't require part replacement.

Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement?

I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts?

A technical bulletin was issued to all dealers recently, with a repair method that doesn't require part replacement.

Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement?

I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts?

It involves you driving the car to them, leaving it with them and getting it back in a repaired condition.

I was looking for a more technical answer Trent, something along the lines that they undo certain steering components and pack them with grease or tighten some bolts and it only takes an hour? Perhaps someone knows exactly what they do to fix it without replacing the shaft.

A technical bulletin was issued to all dealers recently, with a repair method that doesn't require part replacement.

Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement?

I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts?

Just did a round trip mostly highway 650klms average 7.5Lt/100klm on Shell V Power in searing heat with air con on all the time. You would have to be happy with that from a six cylinder car! The worst I have had is 14.5Lt in city traffic. My wife drives a bit more consevative than me and she can get it down to 7.1Lt/100klm on same highway drive.

Here is a picture of the new hose assembly which appears to be all metal. Much better part in my opinion than the original.

Ask for the metal pipe to be installed. I paid for the part and Toyota replaced it instead some crappy hose...

From previous thread

Pipe Oil No. 2 - 15772-31030

Gasket - 90430-16012

Gasket - 90430-16016

Gasket - 90430-16017

http://img197.images...0/dsc04225m.jpg

How much for the metal part? and I assume it will be free of charge if its the same rubber rite?

Cheers

I think you may be talking about the wrong pipe ... the one picture is well above the oil filter mentioned by the OP.

I'm suspecting the oil cooler hose based on the description. Labelled 15767 below (lower right):

There is a metal version of this one available too.

Can't open your picture, but, yes it is something to do with the oil cooler area, I haven't got the vehicle back yet but will post the actual part details shortly. It is in an almost inaccessible position unless the vehicle is on a hoist and the guard plate is taken off. The dealership told me they have never ordered that part before and they sell plenty of Aurions, Klugers etc with the same motor.

Here is a picture of the replacement hose which appears to be all metal with a stretchy bendy section (not sure what word you would use?)where the rubber hose was on the old part. It appears to be much stronger. You actually can see it without removing the plastic guard under the front as it is near the oil filter.

What is uncommon today might be far more common in 6 months it the hose does in fact fail for others after 90,000km. As for routine maintenance, the dealership had just done the 90,000km service 48 hourse earlier which is a major service. Nothing was detected then so it is difficult to identify a potential line failure in what appears to be a reasonable hose. The dealership actually showed me the hose and it did not look perished at all. It just had the pinhole in it. Perhaps I was just unlucky and Toyota was just being generous fixing it out of warranty or perhaps they realised that it should not have happened in the first place. The replacement hose is far more robust looking suggesting that Toyota has identified it as a potential problem and addressed the issue.

Hi all, I usually post in the Aurion section but as we have the same V6 motor I thought you may want to know the following. I was travelling along when my oil warning light came on. I immediately stopped the vehicle and called for assistance. I had lost 3 litres of oil and it was coming out at pressure somewhere very low on the motor but it was difficult to see exactly where. The dealership arranged a tilt tray truck to take the vehicle back to the service dept. They found that my oil cooler hose had a pinhole in it after only 90,000k. The VVTI hose had earlier been replaced and now this hose has the potential to ruin the motor if not replaced with a better quality one. Fortunately I was able to get an out of warranty claim approved. The part alone at retail would have been $275. I believe the hose has since been upgraded on new models. Mine is 2007.

I usually post in the Aurion section but you Kluger owners with the same motor should be interested to know that I nearly blew up my motor the other day. I lost 3 litres of oil before the warning came on. Stopped the vehicle and found oil leaking very low down somewhere near the oil filter. Tilt tray truck ride back to the dealer who found that one of the rubber hoses of the Oil Cooler Assembly had a pinhole in it.It was going to cost nearly $600 to fix but I wrote to Toyota and so did the dealership to get an out of warranty repair. See attached picture of replacement hose assembly, it appears to be all metal.

Just thought there should be a link to this thread or merged, different oil leak area but a common problem with rubber hose blow out. see

450HP/tonne you were correct. It was the part you described in your picture. I picked up the vehicle today and they confirmed it was in fact the Oil Cooler Assembly Hose and you had to buy it as an entire hose assembly hence why it would have cost $279. However as I got it fixed as a special matter Out Of Warranty Claim I did not have to pay for it. I just have to pay for the tilt tray truck getting me back to the dealership. I think the new hose assembly is of better quality and may have been changed on later models compared to my 2007 engine. I will post a picture of it when I get a chance to remove the shield under the motor. The dealership also tested the engine and said everything was fine, they gave me a loan car during the period so I was very happy with the outcome.

Ask for the metal pipe to be installed. I paid for the part and Toyota replaced it instead some crappy hose...

From previous thread

Pipe Oil No. 2 - 15772-31030

Gasket - 90430-16012

Gasket - 90430-16016

Gasket - 90430-16017

http://img197.images...0/dsc04225m.jpg

How much for the metal part? and I assume it will be free of charge if its the same rubber rite?

Cheers

I think you may be talking about the wrong pipe ... the one picture is well above the oil filter mentioned by the OP.

I'm suspecting the oil cooler hose based on the description. Labelled 15767 below (lower right):

There is a metal version of this one available too.

Can't open your picture, but, yes it is something to do with the oil cooler area, I haven't got the vehicle back yet but will post the actual part details shortly. It is in an almost inaccessible position unless the vehicle is on a hoist and the guard plate is taken off. The dealership told me they have never ordered that part before and they sell plenty of Aurions, Klugers etc with the same motor.

Good news Toyota Australia just approved an Out of Warranty repair. I just have to pay $120 for the tilt tray truck carting the vehicle back to the dealership. I sent an email to Toyota and the dealership also supported me in my request. Oh what a feeling now!

I've searched the internet and can't find any other comments on this oil leak, seems like i'm the only lucky one :(

I have just put my Aurion in for repair that will cost $580 including a trip back to the workshop on a tilt tray truck. I was driving along and the oil pressure warning went off, stopped the car immediately, popped the bonnet and found an ugly site. The vehicle was taken back to the dealership where they discovered the lower oil pipe near the oil filter had a pin size hole in it so I lost almost 3 litres of oil! The part alone is $275 and it is the rubber elbow only that in theory could be replaced, but Toyota force you to buy the metal pipes it is attached to. I know the VVTI oil pipe was a recall but has anyone had this pipe go on them. A poor quality rubber hose just a few cms long has cost me $580. Just not good enough Toyota!

Can someone tell me if there is an after market replacement Wiper Motor for my 2004 Camry model ACV36R and cost? Mine jammed the other day and I split it open to find a heap of rust and debris. Cleaned it out, it now goes but pretty noisy.

I recieved my quote for 90,000km service including the spark plug replacement, the quote does not have a charge for Plenum Chamber gasket. Does that mean at Toyota Dealerships they don't take off the Chamber to get to the rear plugs or they do it but don't need to replace gasket?

Does anyone know the answer to the above question?