Danos

They generally turn off interior lights so they can open doors etc on the lot so the battery does not go flat. The keep doors open expecially on hot summer days so when someone comes to see it it's not scorching hot. Trouble is you cannot turn off the boot light so you need to disconnet it . . . . there's your reason right there.

Is anyone putting together another group buy for these eyelids ?

I'd be keen . . .

i had adrenalin in my previous car. loved it. can't go wrong with adrenalin

Except the cost . . .

Went for a spin today down through the national park. Dry and wet as it rain on the way then back via the highway - Put the tyres under some pressure and 1. They are much better than Michelin Energies 2. I was impressed . . . might not be the best but certainly held there own. A bit more noisy than the energies but a heap more grip and don't squeel as much when under pressure.

Toyo Transpath MP4 - not too bad for the price

http://www.toyo.com.au/Tranpath%20MP4.htm

I note that nobody recommended Michelin Energy, the oem tyre for Aurion Sportivo

how does the above mentioned tyres compare with that one on price/grip/wear?

Michelin Energy was ~$230 for R16

I could not wait to get rid of the OEM Michelin tyres - In my opinion they are crap if you have been quoted $230 per tyre for them then your getting ripped off. They cannot give them avay and I was quoted $170 per tyre for replacements.

Ended up with Toyo Tranpath MP4's so far they seem great - will give the car a nice run tomorrow..

Thanks for all your suggestions - -

drifting left is a known problem with the aurion that can't be fixed through any number of wheel alignments. there's a kit you can get for it, some of the other aurion owners can help you with that.

the tyres you have are fine, there isn't that much difference between the current tyres and the original tyres, so dont be overly concerned about it. you can argue for the same tyre size as that on the sportivo 17" rims (because obviously it works well), but the tyres you have are still good so dont worry about it.

your rims are 17". see on the tyre size (second photo) it says 235/45R17. 235 is the width of the tyres, 45 is the profile (size of the side of the tyre) and the R17 is the rim diameter. it's not rocket science.

Is your spare rim must be 16" steel ? Overall outside rolling diameter will be close enough.

Using a tyre calculator - http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

- Your speed indicator will show 1.8% faster than with your stock tyre (when your speedo says 100km/h you are actually gouing 98.2km/h)

Think I'm going to go with the Toyo TEO's - will let you know how they ride

Thanks,

Thanks for the replies guys.

I have 2 prices so far for 215/55R17's :

Toyo TEO's for $208 each

Dunlop SP Sport 300E for $238 each

Apparently the Toyo's are quite good and cheap for what they are - Anyone used any ?

Also - I'm in the Shire (Sutherland) Southern Sydney - anyone know a good shop down here ?

My prices are from Tubbies Tyrepower (Kirrawee) + Beaurepairs (Taren Point)

Thanks

Did you upgrade to the standard rims from Toyota. ie: Kappa Alloy Wheels 18" / Vortex-V Alloy Wheels 17". With that tyre size it does not look like it . . . What wheels do you have ?

Best place to go would be back to the dealer that gave you the wheels/tyre setup and ask them - Hopefully they didn't just get a good deal on non-toyota rare rim/tyre size which will make it harder (not impossible) to replace your rubber.

I may send an email to my dealer, as all I see on the purchase invoice is "Alloy Wheels and Tyres".

The rim itself looks genuine from Toyota (has the Toyota symbol in the middle), but then rim looks more like Raptor 16"x7" than Vortex-V Alloy Wheels 17". Now I'm confuse with the rubber on the rim.

The Tyres are Summer Car Type, Alpha Accelera.

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html is where I learnt about the Tyre reading.

Regards,

Jools.

Hmmm 16" rims with 17" rubber ? Betta get onto your dealer - Or post a photo of the rims / tyres

Hi all,

I have purchased a new Aurion AT-X last week with additional rear parking sensors and 17" alloy wheels, all from Toyota dealer. Due to the lack of knowledge in car mechanics, I have trolled Toyota Owners Club forum quite regularly. Infact, I have been reading the Aurion manual.

On this New Tyres topic, Toyota have given me 235/45 ZR17 97W. What issues will I be facing when I need tyre(s) replacement? As the normal Tyre Specification sticker indicates 215/60 R16 95V and 215/55R R17 93V only. Also the recommended PSI per tyre is 30 as listed on the sticker, however what is the correct PSI for my tyres?

Did I made a bad choice for upgrading the wheels?

Jools.

Did you upgrade to the standard rims from Toyota. ie: Kappa Alloy Wheels 18" / Vortex-V Alloy Wheels 17". With that tyre size it does not look like it . . . What wheels do you have ?

Best place to go would be back to the dealer that gave you the wheels/tyre setup and ask them - Hopefully they didn't just get a good deal on non-toyota rare rim/tyre size which will make it harder (not impossible) to replace your rubber.

Hey guys - Looking around for some new rubber for my standard sportivo rims 215/55R17 93V - I've heard you can put 225/50R17's on them also.

Can anyone recommend any tyres that they have put on there rims that are good but don't cost the earth. I live in Sydney so if there is a good place to go let me know here.

So far I'm thinking these (internet research only so far):

Yokahama - S.Drive or C.Drive

Dunlop - SP Sport 300E

Bridgestone - Potenza RE050 or Turanza ER300 (both 225/50R17)

Toyo - TEO Plus

It's easier to do research with guys that have been there before so gimme your comments . . .

Thanks

PS - almost done 50k on the OEM michelin energy crap, good mileage but crap tyres

- - - + + UPDATE + + - - -

Hey guys, Picked up my car on monday afternoon. All fixed but it was sent to another dealer to be fixed, there is apparently only one dealer in Sydney that does transmissions.

I've been meaning to have a look to see if it's the same old transmission or a nice shiny new one. Will have a good look on the weekend and let you know.

It does not feel like the transmission (in terms of drive) that it was before but that could be just cause it was almost stuffed before.

Toyota charged me nothing and said it was all covered by warrenty.

They did have my car for all of christmas which was not good.

Yeah - thanks guys. I'm not giving up on the loan car. Will be contacting Toyota HQ today and writing a nice letter.

Apparently there is a major transmission services at 45,000km which was done 2 weeks ago. My thoughts are that the service bloke has stuffed the service either by leaving air in the system or something else. It's already with Toyota, I'm just hoping that it's completely stuffed and they replace it. It's a Nov 2006 build so Dec 2008 is still under the factory warranty. I bought the car with 20,000kms on it and it's been serviced with Toyota through out it's life so far. Nothing there that I can see to void the warranty.

Will keep you posted

Hi guys,

Just to share an experience I had this morning which eventuated in my car now in the possesion of Toyota to repair (thankfully under warranty).

Have had no problems with the car/transmission to date which had done just over 45,000kms. Today driving down a freeway I slowed to a stop from 110km/h due to traffic. When I attempted to start again there was a clunk and the engine just reved as though in neutral. I tried shifting to 'P' and back to 'D' - no luck. Tried 'R' . . nothing.

This went with no warning and there was no hard driving at all - I'll keep you posted to the eventual outcome, but I'm a little pi$$ed at Toyota as they offer no courtesy car or anything and simply said "We'll let you know how things go, it should take about a week" . . . which I took as "we don't know what the f is wrong and in about a weeks time it will be christmas so don't expect us to do anything before the new year"

Has anyone had a similar thing happen ?

Cheers,

D

I've been in contact with Toyota in regards to the issues encountered with the steering alignment pulling left issue. I will keep you all updated on the progress.

Do they...?

Bugger.... coz im slack at the servo ! lol :P

Nah - I thought there was a little clip on the gun handle that holds the trigger. Similar to a garden water hose gun.

In relation to filling the car - it is pump depandant. Some are old and really sensitive, and some are fine. Just play with the position of the pump in the fuel filler spout.

Okay, I have never removed this trim in the past, but for the benefit of others, I have gone ahead and done so. Just like most other things in this car, it is held down by clips. Just take a look at the photos and you can figure it out from there. All I used was a jewelers screwdriver.

GREAT WORK . . .

I had a rattle in the dash similar to what you mentioned. It turned out to be the plastic ducting from the fan (behind the glove box) rubbing on the underside of the dash. I removed the glove box and managed to squeeze my hand in to find the cause of the problem. To fix it I used cable ties to secure the plastic ducting away from the point it was rubbing. No photos but that might help.

Mine is genuine and only sticks out 135mm on my ZR6. The pics arn't great but they give you the idea.

The stock ones look alright. The only issue is I'd prefer a removable one and there is no 'goose neck' on the removable one. If you trace a line back from the tow-ball on your stock bar it will penetrate vertically in the middle of the bumper, or through the black trim or even half through the black + coloured section of the bumper. IMO it would look crap but I've not seen any pics of a removable tow-bar on a Sportivo . . . yet

Is there someone who has bought a new remote that can confirm this procedure. Once confirmed then I think we should sticky this thread

Danos mate, I wouldn't do a big write up if it didn't work lol.

Everything in my post is as a result of my own experiences (with the obvious exception of the programming instructions in bold, which I have confirmed works on my car).

Easy big fella - didn't say I didn't believe what your posted. It's just good to have a backup person who has tried it before it gets stickied. Your details say you own a "Hiace SBV", I guess you now own an Aurion also ?

Is there someone who has bought a new remote that can confirm this procedure. Once confirmed then I think we should sticky this thread

The yellow stick..

Used a lot in audio installation.. Very useful for cabling telephone lines and cables too!!

It cant be bought, not even in bunnings.. i spent a lot of time looking for it with no luck.. Ended up picking it from a construction site.. (hrm.. hope i m not stealing..)

It's the plastic yellow tongue form tongue & groove particle floor board . . . usually :)

Well that's where most of our guys get it from . . . .

http://www.gunnersens.com.au/products/buil...d-flooring.html

Maybe you haven't seen any posts from us Aurion owners as we are hard working people who cannot spend every night checking the forum. I try and check every 3-4 days to catch up on what's been happening.

What can you do to integrate us further? Well lets see, give us our *** dam own section for starters. What does an aurion and avalon have in common? Yeah an engine, four wheels and one spare, a steering wheel and few other things but that's it. What's this Aurion Sportivo rubbish?

Come on, give us an identity at least.

I do venture into the club lounge area and enjoy some of the comments made, but I'm and old *****, and to be honest, feel a little out of my league when discussing issues as I don't know that much about cars. That's why I'm here, to learn some more.

Anyway have a great day all, catch in the next 3-4 days, back to work for me.

Ciao

Pete

Such anger.

1. There are sweet FA active avalon members - so whats the problem sharing the space? We gave the Prius its own forum - apparently 1 person actually owns a prius <_<

2. You have your own section, as listed above. Aurion Sportivo happens to be.... an Aurion. Shock horror - perhaps we should set up an Aurion Sportivo section just for them too...

3. You apparently weren't here when the random Aurion guy rocked up and made a challenge for moderator. Then again, thats probably representative of your kind... only on here when you want something from everyone else (be it mechanical advice or a moderator's badge). If you are but a fringe dweller, why should you have an exclusive section, let alone your own exclusive moderator???

As for the rest of the Aurion section... I have no gripe with you :) . Rock on!

Just keep it the way it is, and quite all the flaming. Having a seperate section will not integrate anyone, anywhere.

Nice work mate.

Mine were installed before I bought the car (2nd hand). Not sure it they are original Toyota or not but I only have a 'beep' sensor with the speaker located on the rear parcel shelf. It's connected to the gear selector so it only works when I've got the transmisison in ''R'.

But I must say - I've gotten the SX6 into some pretty tight spots and really I owe it all to the sensors. If you don't have any I would recommend that you get some. They are worth the investment. Good for parking in my garage where I need to be about 2 inch from the shelving in order to shut the garage door, a distance meter would have been good though. Now I just installed reverse stops in my garage (a lump of 4x2 timber) which stops my rear wheels.

Nice to see some sequence photos of the install. Anyone doing stuff like this should photo document it so people can see what's involved before commencing there install.

I believe that the cost of LPG has been low as the fuel excise tax on LPG (or something like that) by the government has been kept low. However there has always been talk of a fuel excise tax reform which may lead to LPG price lift sometime . . I'm sure I read an article or saw something on TV at some time over the last year.

I had a strange thing happen to me just the other day. I leave home at 6:05am drive down my street (600m) and onto the highway. Usually I drive fairly easily until the car warms up. When I get to the end of my street the car is in 6th gear (selector in D) and I have a merge lane onto the highway. As I got to the merge lane I needed to boot it to get into some heavy oncoming traffic. Trouble was the transmission didn't downshift at all and while my foot was almost to the floor the car was still in 6th and not accelerating fast at all. I have to put it into S to get it to 4th and downshift myself.

Having said that it's the 1st and only time it's happened and now I'm conscious of it, it has not happened again.

Anyone experienced this ?

I drove a new SV6 (demonstrator) before I bought my SX6. It drove alright if you don't pay attention to the engine vibration through the steering wheel and in the cabin. I think i could feel every part of the engine from the drivers seat, through the wheel, pedels & seat. Not a nice quiet ride that I was expecting. I guess it is suppose to be a performance 6 but really I had expected better.

Not to mention the salesperson having to hold onto the AC/Radio plastic facier to stop the rattle and also lean on the passengers side door so stop the trim vibrating against the door frame. I haven't driven the falcon yet but I might give one a go - just for fun.

Do you think you could trace the cutouts on paper and post them. I wouldn't mind at least making the mounts before I pull the doors apart just to reduce the time the car is in peices. Did you trim and further after you cut them out ? Obviously the speaker cutout is dependant on what speakers I use . . . Also - are there any electrical connectors I'd need to buy to match the existing speaker cable connectors or are they just spade connectors to the speakers?

I should be able to trace them on cardboard for you. Im not sure what your asking in response to "Did you trim and further after you cut them out?" In terms of the electrical connectors i simply spliced into the factory leads and attached a small amount of cable supplied with the speakers. This way i can put the factory speakers back in of need be.

By "Did you trim and further after you cut them out?" I meant once you cut them from the sheet of ply/MDF did you need to trim them anymore to make them fit. Hence the original cutout might be different to the final mount. Are you able to scan the trace + post ?