KHIEM

I've recieved the bulbs and installed all the rear ones. Sadly, the front turn signal is not the same to the rear one. The pin on the bulb of the front signal is aligned at 150 degrees, not opposite, which makes it become a 7507 (amber) bulb (Not 1156 like what I mistakenly bought).

The rear ones look beautiful, the flashing style of LEDs is attractive. Thanks to soundbyte's method of using sticky tape to pull the wedge bulb out, it worked beautifully. :-)

At the meantime, while waiting for the replacement of the wrong type bulbs, Is it ok if I use LEDs for rear and filaments for front with the LED-flasher unit? Apparantly they flash ok, but not sure if there's any kind of long term damage.

To get the wedge globe out of its socket a piece of plastic tube a bit smaller than the diameter of the globe

is good. Just push the tube over the globe in the socket and pull gently, fingers can do it

but be careful you do not break the globe as you can cut your fingers easily on the glass.

Thanks for the help sountbyte, I dont quite get this part (the blue words). I've tried to use bare hand and pull it out, but seemed like it was a bit slippery and I couldn't really pull it out easily.

Anyone knows how to take the front turn/signal bulb(s) out? I tried to un-screw the 2 screws on top of them, but it seemed like they were not the only two screws that I needed to unscrew, the whole headlight unit could not be taken out, so there may be some more underneath that I could not reach :(. Will there anything wrong with the headlight alignment if we take the headlight out and put it back, like doing at home?

So far, only the front turn/signal is the only step that I feel a bit difficult to DIY. Hope to receive some TIPs from everyone :).

Have you managed to remove the flasher?

After I read your thread, I'm also keen to replace the standard flasher to electronic.

Do you know how many pins for the corolla's flasher?

Can you please tell me where I can get the electronic flasher?

Thanks

Thanks, soundbyte for the nice and clean photos, i think I have the idea now. Esp the picture of the lug illustrating how it is connected to the dash, it's really helpful.

I'll try to take it out and keep you posted. Still waiting for the shipping. Can't wait to have some LEDs looking :P!

Yea, I hope the new LEDs will look better, I just love the way it flashes :).

After following the instruction of sountbyte, yes, I have managed to reach the flasheruni, but not taken it out yet because still waiting for the LED-flasher-unit to arrive.

Seems like u have a 05 hatch, which is same to me, so I assume the flasher unit would be the same for both of us.

That means, this is the one u are looking for:

This photo shows its pins.

I got mine from here: Flasher Unit

Hope that helps,

Repost my question:

You know the front signal/turning bulb, do you have any tip to take it out? My problem is: I saw quite a few of wires and obstacles that prevented me to reach the bulb's socket, therefore, I couldn't even take it out to have a look (that's why I hope the rear signal is identical to the front signal). Do you have any tip to reach the socket and get the bulb out for replacement?

Same thing happens for the license number bulb: the right one is ok, but the left one has a few wires and stuff in front of it, so it's quite hard to reach.

For the wedge bulb (license bulb), how can we take it out of the socket, do we just use force and try to unplug it from the socket?

I tried to take the tray out and yes, i succeded. thanks to your instruction.

You know the front signal/turning bulb, do you have any tip to take it out? My problem is: I saw quite a few of wires and obstacles that prevented me to reach the bulb's socket, therefore, I couldn't even take it out to have a look (that's why I hope the rear signal is identical to the front signal). Do you have any tip to reach the socket and get the bulb out for replacement?

Same thing happens for the license number bulb: the right one is ok, but the left one has a few wires and stuff in front of it, so it's quite hard to reach.

For the wedge bulb (license bulb), how can we take it out of the socket, do we just use force and try to unplug it from the socket?

Thanks for your advice,

Cheers,

Thanks, soundbyte for the nice and clean photos, i think I have the idea now. Esp the picture of the lug illustrating how it is connected to the dash, it's really helpful.

I'll try to take it out and keep you posted. Still waiting for the shipping. Can't wait to have some LEDs looking :P!

Thanks for the instruction,

I have managed to see the flasher unit sit with a bunch of other plugs, however, I still can't take the drop down pocket/tray using your instruction (the auxiliary box). I tried to lift upward, but it did not seem to move anything. Do I have to use a lot of force?

One question about the back-up light at rear: what is that used for? When is it turned on? Is it just like the rear fog light like many Eu cars have?

Cheers

Hi,

That's what I need, thank u for that.

With regards to the flasher, is simply replacing the flasher unit will help to solve the 'fast-flashing' problem? They (the website) recommends me to buy the LOAD RESISTOR and install it paralel with the bulb, but i find that a bit more complicated than replacing the flasher unit alone. And, do we have to change all the 4 signals to LED at a time when we use the LED FLASHER?

I found the flasher unit at the location you told me, but how would you get to it? I mean there is an auxliary compartment/box located right in front of it, how would you get that box out in order to reach the flasher?

I'm placing the order now, but still not sure about the flasher unit.

Thanks, sountbyte

I have managed to take them out and took a few photos:

This is the board/base where all the bulbs are fitted

Back

Can anyone please help me ID these bulbs :(?

Thank soundbyte, I'm researching that website now, seems like they have a good range of LEDs. The stop/tail light bulb should have dual strength, i.e. 21/5watts and I'm not sure if these LEDs have that.

OMG, i'm confused now. Why aren't there any description of these bulbs in the manual?

I just have a few more questions

1. Are the front turn signal bulb and the rear ones exactly the same, i.e. I can just buy 4 of them at the same time? Because that's what I can see in the instruction manual, 21W Type D. If yes, what type of bulb is it?

2. Is it easy to install these kinds of LED and they will work normally? Since the front turn signals are supposed to flash, are those LEDs gonna flash just normally like the filament bulbs? I've heard something about "NO ERROR bulb", so is it easy to get some kinds of error?

Since I need the keyword/type of the bulb to find online, so it would be very much appreciated if anyone can find it.

Cheers,

My 2002 Corolla wagon uses the wedge type LEDs found here http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/7443.html.

7443 red are stop/tail 7443 amber are turn and 7443 Xenon White are reversing.

I use the top row types and am very happy with them.

My dad's 2006 Ascent hatch uses bayonet types found here http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/11567.html.

1156 amber and white are single pinned, for turn and reversing, 1157 are double pinned, for the stop/tail combination.

I use the second row down types for my Lite Ace.

Lots of types around on eBay it really is a suck it and see if you like the results.

The SMD types I have found to be brighter than the standard LED types.

The colour of the LED's matters, I find that using the right colour for the right spot does make a big difference, reds for stop/tail etc.

You will need to check your car for which type is used, I was surprised the 2006 Corolla used bayonet types rather than the wedge

types I took to install.

soundbyte

Thanks for ur recommendation,

The sites you recommended do not work, 404 Page not found, would you please check them again :(

The 2006 Ascent hatch of your dad should be very similar to mine. So I hope after looking at the sites (once they works) it should be what im looking for.

After replacing with those LEDs, what do u think about the result? Is it any similar to the cars with pre-installed LEDs? Will it gonna look "cool"?

Cheers,

Hi everyone,

My car is a 2005 Hatch Corolla Ascent

I am looking at replacing the rear brake light bulbs and the signal bulbs with LED ones. However, I don't seem to find the correct model/type of these bulbs (using both the search function in this forum and Google) and I will need the correct type cos I gonna buy them online (ebay).

I found the type of the license number light bulbs to be 501 T10 wedges bulb (on this site: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=115346&st=0&p=1043413&hl=bulb%20license&fromsearch=1entry1043413), but had no luck for the brake & signal bulbs.

I just love the look of LED brake light and signal on some new models (e.g. 2010+ Camry), and I hope replacing my halogen bulb with the LED bought online can get somewhere close to that. Do you have any advice?

Thanks, everyone :).

Thanks guys, I have done a quick search online and seems like this is the reason for the shaking/vibration.

Do you know how much roughly this gonna cost, machine or truing the discs?

Hi everyone,

Hope you guys are enjoying Easter,

After traveling about 200 kms for the whole day (Adelaide - Mannum and back), when I was on the way back to Adelaide, I started to feel some vibration on my steering wheel when the brake pedal is pressed.

The car was traveling at 110 kph down hill and the gear was at Neutral (N), I pressed the brake pedal and the steering wheel started to shake a bit (vibrate). I released the brake and then about 200 or 300 metres applied the brake again and it still shook (mild vibration). I changed to Drive (D) and it shook a bit less, but still shaking a bit. The car still slowed down but don't know why the steering wheel vibrated... :(

After exiting the freeway, i drove about 70ish kph and didn't notice any shaking or vibration...

This is the first time I experience this :( :(...

Could it be because I have driven it for such a long trip and the discs and the pads were too hot that they may expand a bit causing all sorts of these vibration and shaking?

Thanks for your help and answers

Regards,

TK

Oh one more thing: My car model is a Ascent Corolla, 2005, 84k :)

I just browsing around and found this video on youtube about cleaning the car air conditioning system. Luckily, the model of the car he's doin is our Corolla :D. Not sure what model is that, but its Left handed. The cabin air filter is located behind the glove box:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhgGEeNrGM8

This is what i got after putting "world's most sold car" into google, and clicking at the first link:

http://www.automotoportal.com/article/Top_...ssful_Cars_Ever

Hey everyone, i just found my keyyy :). It was at the security office in my Uni. someone picked it up and give it to them. Thank God and everyone ;)

Hey man, i had the same thing but worse, i lost all my keys, get a new alarm plus emobolizer that's what i did, i went for the mongoose. As for the key you can get one cut for roughly $130 ish, i would recommend you to use the after market key and keep your master key at home.

What state you in? I know a locksmith that cuts car keys.

cheers

Yea i m in SA, Aelaide mate. Ive had a look on Moongose website and yea, they r really sophisticated. But again, they don't have any store down here i think :(.

How much did you buy yours? I m looking at the M80G one. it aslo gives an option of buying the FM pager, i think that one is for texting us when there's problem with the car (cos there's a SIM inserting to that FM pager in the photo). It doesnt have the price on the website but i think with all these fancy features, it gonna cost me about $400ish :(

do you use any alarm system on your car DJKOR?

thats funny - today i too lost my car keys + house keyas at work. i think a student at my school has taken it and now im afraid to drive my car to work thinking the kid with my keys will try to unlock it...

its good that u know where u lost the keys.... i just don't know when and where did that happen :(. I think i won't sleep well tonite :(

if you're in qld, contact DLC locksmiths at the coast, they can cut you a new key and re-code your ECU for a new master etc.

The old key will then not be able to start the car. Costs a ton less than replacing the ECU and all lock barels. No real need for an alarm once you've had this done.

That sounds good too. But i m in adeliade now :(. I m still searching for Car key experts :(.... do u think they have that work down here?

Can you say a bit more about the immobiliser? How about installing an aftermarket alarm, like the one that sounds *beep* *beep* when you lock/open the car? Is that safe and convenient?

Any decent immobiliser really is all you would need. An aftermarket car alarm may even come with one built in so you won't need to worry. Just remember though, the alarm may be useful when you are at home, but when you leave you car out in a car park, anything can happen. They can use your keys to unlock the door, alarm goes off, they pop the bonnet and then kill the alarm. You car is then theirs to do what they want.

Trust me, in a car park not many people care when a car alarm goes off. On my old Camry, my alarm was playing up. I popped the bonnet and disabled the siren. People were watching, but didn't care.

Ok, so look like an Alarm together with an immobiliser is good for me. Do you know what brand in particular? or where should I look for them. I m now in Adelaide.

What do you think aout the probability that someone knows my car and has my key gonna steal my rolla? is it a relative high chance :(.

Yeah, it is a tough decision you have there. I would cancel your Blockbuster account ASAP to be on the safe side. They shouldn't disclose your personal information to anyone but yourself (which you usually verify by pin number or photo ID) so you should be relatively safe there.

An other option you can try is to install an aftermarket immobiliser. Wether it be a keyed switch or a hidden fuel pump cut, either should prevent your car from being stolen. Of course it won't stop anyone from taking stuff out of your car.

The choice is up to you really if you want to toss up the odds. Do you really think they can find your car?

Thanks DJKOR.

I parked my car there in a big carpark (shop carpark) and jumped on the bus. so the entire trip can be summarized as BUS-UNI (stay there for about 9 to 10 hours)-BUS-carpark. So i m not sure where i dropped it :(. There's a small chance that someone saw me dropping the key, picked it up, kept silence and followed me all the way down to my car.. but still :(.

Can you say a bit more about the immobiliser? How about installing an aftermarket alarm, like the one that sounds *beep* *beep* when you lock/open the car? Is that safe and convenient?

Hi everyone,

It was a lovely sunny Wednesday afternoon....

I went to Uni for a whole day with my car key in my backpack. When i got off the bus and back to my car, I just couldn't find my key anymore :(.... I don't know when and where i dropped it.. man, so depressed now :(.

I called Toyota straight away and they said: to rebuild the whole system that includes the ignition thing, the remotes and keys, it gnna cost $1500-$2000 roughly :(. I asked him if there's any other cheaper solution, he said he didn't know any except taking the risk...

I have my back-up key. On the key that i lost, there's a blockbuster card as well (i put them together so i don't lose them), do you think there's any chance that ppl can track my home address and find my lovely baby in my garage :(? that would be a disaster for me :(.

My friends advised me to call Blockbuster and cancel the account, but i think if someone picked it, and give it to blockbuster they still can find my address and post it to me or call me to pick it up :(. So what do u think? should i cancel the account or just leave it like that :(?

My uncle told me to instal the alarm, which's about 400-500 to reduce the risk :(. Do you think it worths?

Thanks for everyone's comment :(. I am sad :(.

Cheers

hi mate, i have the exact car like yours :D. The Castrol (Edge or Sport something, i can't remember) fully synthetic 5w-30 works perfectly with our car :-), very smooth driving.... i change the oil every 5k km, and it works just great!

From everything you have described, you will be fine. Your brakes would have been bled by Toyota so the system should be in good running order.

As SuperDave has said, the compound of the brake pads themselves can create different 'feels' and I would say this is the main reason. I have a set of Bendix CT's in my Aurion and I reckon they feel a little on the soft side. They pull the car up really nicely, but they aren't quite up there in terms of feeling sharp on a light press. Needless to say, they won't be in there for long.

Yea i think so. so i just need to stick with it, i think it should be fine for my next long trip.

Thank everyone :)

If you wanted to you can remove some of the brake fluid. A spoon, syringe or something similar will do the job. Usually you would just bleed a little fluid from one of the calipers but I'm assuming that that is beyond your mechanical knowledge (no offense, just don't want to confuse you with too much information).

Thin or thick pads won't make a difference as the piston in the caliper keeps the pads close to the rotor at all times. Different brands and compounds of pads can create different 'feels'. I have never used Bendix before so can't say if they are a soft pad or not. As long as the car pulls up in a good distance then I wouldn't worry too much. After bedding the pads in don't be surprised if they glaze slightly. The glaze wears off after about 20-50km. Glazing can also take some braking performance away.

Thanks Dave,

I have just taken it to Toyota and asked them for a check immediately. Lucky enought, they did that for me straight away. The mechanic took the car for a test drive and he told me that there's nothing wrong with the brakes, it's just becos there may be some air/bubbles in the fluid, so he may need to get all the air out. He took the car inside and did the job for about 15 minutes. After that, the pedals ddn't feel so much different than before, but he confirmed with me that it is normal and nothing wrong (i did mention something you guys said, about the discs and the master cylinder but he said nah, it should be normal).

He then picked up a screwdriver and tightened something on the calipers of both 2 wheels (he made a full turn to left and right on the steering-wheel in order to do that).

It is not really a big difference afterwards, but as long as they confirmed it's ok, i should not be worried, rite?

Cheers