pirate125

I purchased the Turbosmart 2.75" 45-degree hose, however it was an extremely tight fit. When I measured the outer diameter of my throttle body it was 3" however ,the outer diameter of the CAI was 2.75" so I have the Turbosmart 3" hose on order and I know it will fit much nicer this time when I get it as I did not like the stretch of the hose on the throttle body when I tried fitting the 2.75" hose.

Thank you very much for the response. I will purchase one and once installed, I will update this thread.

Is the turbosmart 45-degree silicone hose that dyslexik mentioned in is post similar to the one in this link http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM6738129502P?sid=IDx20101019x00001a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM6738129502

If so, I will go ahead and purchase it!

Given the uniqueness of the angle on the hose, I am not able to find on the Internet any straight couplings that will be a direct fit. Additionally, I called TRD USA and they do not sell the coupling separately :(

Can anyone advise me as to where I can purchase a rubber coupling for my TRD cold air intake as shown in the attached pictures. I have noticed some small surface cracks on it and I would like to replace it before they get any worse.

All help will be greatly appreciated.

You can also try cleaning the idle speed control valve

When last were the tie rods and tie rod ends checked/replaced?

If you're looking for mounts that are guaranteed of lasting a lont time, I'd recommend the C-ONE engine mounts as they are solid rubber-filled mounts. They do increase the NVH slightly but they are worth the money spent, in my opinion.

Recommended cold tyre pressure is 30 psi all around and 60 psi for the temporary (spare) tyre. I normally put in 31 psi all around on mine.

How much were the C-One bushes?

I paid US$65.00 for them.

I installed my C-ONE® shift lever mount bushes today and I just decided to create this thread to show the differences between the OEM bushing and the C-ONE® part. Additionally, please note that the larger diameter on the bush goes between the base of the shift lever assemby and where it bolts down to on the chassis.

I would strongly suggest that you measure your fuel pressure on start-up. It should be 45 psi at idle, any lower and you will have starting issues.

I had this problem a while back after I changed my fuel filter; the car worked fine for the first two days and then it started to become progressively harder and harder to start. I measured my fuel pressure and it was 15 psi at idle. I disassembled my fuel filter and found a squeezed o-ring and made sure that I re-seated it properly and put everything back together, fired it up and the reading was 45 psi and my starting issues were gone.

Hope this helps!

Oh then either I misunderstood marks reply about reducing vibration in the cabin, or vice versa.

Wat I wanted to know is there anything to reduce/eliminate the cabin noise when these things r in?

Btw hows shifting in lift feel pirate? Mine seemed to be more direct...apart from the "crunching" dyslexik heard last time just before i took them out :P I also thought that the car didn't lurch forward when I offed the accelerator to shift gears.

Shifting in lift is not a problem although that is due to my extended clutch pushrod. For sure though, the "lurching forward" after a quick blip of the throttle is no longer being experienced.

I installed the C-ONE engine mounts on my ZZE123 Corolla over the weekend and I have noticed a marked improvement in throttle response as well as an improvement in traction during corner acceleration. In addition, I do not have to worry about inserts “popping out” as has been the case with owners who have used the Energy Suspension motor mount inserts.

The downsides are that there has been an increase in in-car vibrations at idle and between 3000 – 4000 rpm, but these vibrations are quite “liveable”. I have attached a few pictures of the mounts for everyone’s’ benefit.

Maybe add the engine damper as well that could ease the vabration problem

If there is such a thing for our cars I wanna see how well they work before putting the mount inserts back in the car. I'm already missing the performance :(

ahh nice! What about when the car is idle? It's not too bad, although sometimes I can see the steering wheel vibrating. Does it vibrate a fair bit? Only slightly, but it is not unbearable

Also how much did they set u back? US$250

Mine are going out today... :( I cant stand the vibration...gonna miss the performance though, hitted lift for the last time for a while these things are still in :(

I installed the C-ONE engine mounts on my ZZE123 Corolla over the weekend and I have noticed a marked improvement in throttle response as well as an improvement in traction during corner acceleration. In addition, I do not have to worry about inserts “popping out” as has been the case with owners who have used the Energy Suspension motor mount inserts.

The downsides are that there has been an increase in in-car vibrations at idle and between 3000 – 4000 rpm, but these vibrations are quite “liveable”. I have attached a few pictures of the mounts for everyone’s’ benefit.

I am currently looking at purchasing a flywheel and right now I have narrowed it down to 3 options and I have included the weights of each as well as the pricing:

TRD flywheel (9.7 lbs) [ US$605 ]

C-ONE flywheel (9.9 lbs) [ US$450 ]

C-one flywheel - type R (8.8 lbs) [ US$550 ]

What I want to know is if anyone has installed any of these options in their ZZE123 Corolla and if so, did the effect of the flywheel take any getting used to?

Additionally, this flywheel will be mated to an ACT clutch assembly (heavy-duty pressure plate with a 6-pad spring-centered race disc) which I have already.

Thanks in advance.

If your already considering the Type R flywheel why not get the MWR Ultra light chromoly flywheel or the Fidanza aluminium flywheel. Both are lighter and are a fraction of the price.

Wow are you actually racing your car?

Thanks, I'll check those options out. With regards to your second question, I'm not racing my car.

Ok so how come you have a 6 puck clutch face? Its not gonne be fun driving that as a daily. Bit of overkill to if you staying na.

The 6-puck clutch is reputedly stronger than the full face organic clutch and to the best of my knowledge, it's the pressure plate that impacts on drivability. ACT had two other pressure plate above the heavy-duty option, those being Extreme and Maxx Extreme and I have driven a car with the Extreme pressure plate already and that wasn't too bad.

I am currently looking at purchasing a flywheel and right now I have narrowed it down to 3 options and I have included the weights of each as well as the pricing:

TRD flywheel (9.7 lbs) [ US$605 ]

C-ONE flywheel (9.9 lbs) [ US$450 ]

C-one flywheel - type R (8.8 lbs) [ US$550 ]

What I want to know is if anyone has installed any of these options in their ZZE123 Corolla and if so, did the effect of the flywheel take any getting used to?

Additionally, this flywheel will be mated to an ACT clutch assembly (heavy-duty pressure plate with a 6-pad spring-centered race disc) which I have already.

Thanks in advance.

If your already considering the Type R flywheel why not get the MWR Ultra light chromoly flywheel or the Fidanza aluminium flywheel. Both are lighter and are a fraction of the price.

Wow are you actually racing your car?

Thanks, I'll check those options out. With regards to your second question, I'm not racing my car.

I am currently looking at purchasing a flywheel and right now I have narrowed it down to 3 options and I have included the weights of each as well as the pricing:

TRD flywheel (9.7 lbs) [ US$605 ]

C-ONE flywheel (9.9 lbs) [ US$450 ]

C-one flywheel - type R (8.8 lbs) [ US$550 ]

What I want to know is if anyone has installed any of these options in their ZZE123 Corolla and if so, did the effect of the flywheel take any getting used to?

Additionally, this flywheel will be mated to an ACT clutch assembly (heavy-duty pressure plate with a 6-pad spring-centered race disc) which I have already.

Thanks in advance.

Jut as a further update, I have added a picture of my installation. I msut say it looks really nice. Once again, thank you Road & Track. :D

Just as an update, I was able to purchase this item from Road & Track. I got them yesterday and I will install them tomorrow.

If you "torque" a sump plug you'll potentially strip the thread - it only needs to be slightly more than hand tight, the washer should deal with the rest

I torque mine to 27 ft-lb all the time and I never had a problem.

I was perusing the parts database for my car (JDM Runx) and I realised that the hub and bearing comes as an assembly for the rear of these vehicles which means that in the event that a rear bearing goes you have to not only buy the bearing but the hub as well.

I was wondering if anyone here either had reason to change their rear bearings or inspect them, and if so, what is the part number on the bearing. I think this information will be useful in preventing the owners of these cars from having to purchase the hub unnecessarily.

There are some other manufacturers here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=10160

Nolthane and Superpro do bushes, can't comment on fitment though since I haven't used poly bushes on this car. Going by my last car they are noisier.

I use the Whiteline front anti-roll bar (24mm), there is slightly more understeer but less inside wheel spin.

I don't think the SuperPro bushes have been released from development as yet.