'87 Aussie-built SV21 - help with firewalls and/or exploded-view diag needed

[Dreamscape]

Hullo. Having searched far and wide, and failed to find any info / discussions regarding this topic, I'm posting here asking for help from anyone who's 'been there', knows my pain, and wouldn't mind sharing what they learned from their (probably unpleasant;\) experience.

The problem: a friend's Camry has suffered from having leaves collect in the plenum chambers (cabin-air fresh air inlet ducts) which are sandwiched between 2 of the 3 (!) firewalls... over time the (now-composted) leaf material has soaked up and retained water, sat there, and rusted through at least one of the firewalls (this was only discovered when water started running down the inside of the cabin and soaked the carpet).

Her mechanic's opinion was "it's stuffed - no way around it". Err, yeah, *really* helpful... besides: sorry, i don't give up that easily, especially when a cash-strapped friend is looking at losing so much money on a car that's otherwise in such excellent condition.

Known-good professional panel beater's opinion: "It's technically repairable, but financially it's stuffed purely because it's too expensive to repair. Just blast the chambers clear of debris with a pressure washer, dry them out thoroughly, then pump them full of aerosol polyurethane seal foam... she'll get another 2-3 years out of the car." Ok, that's getting better - and is trusted advice, as I know that repairer - he's *well* experienced, and really knows what he's talking about.

My first concern was that if the chambers are blocked, water will pool under the metal grille behind the bonnet/hood, just in front of the lower edge of the windscreen... if it can't drain from there, it'll just cause rust elsewhere. But I doubt the panel beater would've advised blocking the chambers if that was gunna be an issue. I'll be taping the chamber inlets closed and testing to see if water will drain, just to make sure. If I'm right, and it *does* drain, that tape will do as a temporary patch until I can effect a decent repair (if possible). In which case:

I'd like to try to get down into the (cleaned-out, dried) plenum chambers and use polyester resin and thin fibreglass "CSM" (chopped stranded mat) to patch over the rust. If I can do that, it'll stop water from leaking into the cabin, *and* still allow fresh air to be drawn into the cabin. However, getting into those plenum chambers and effecting that patching job is basically "keyhole surgery" - depending on how complex the chambers are, it may be impractically difficult. Hence my question:

Has anyone else tried a patch/repair like this before? If so, just how difficult was it to access the depths of the plenum chambers?

If anyone has an answer to that, I'd kinda like to hear it *before* i arrange a loan of an endoscope (sadly, yes, i *can* arrange that;) and jury rig the "keyhole surgery" tools necessary to trickle resin over the rusted areas and apply the CSM patch(es).

Given the otherwise-immaculate condition of the car (especially for its age), and my friend's lack of finances at the moment, I'd really like to do whatever I can to salvage as much as possible out of this car's potential usable lifespan. To that end, any help, advice or info would be greatly appreciated.

MTIA

Dreamscape

Note: this is being cross-posted on Toyota Owners Club (AU), ToyMods and Toyota Nation... sorry if that breaks rules or gets noses out of joint, but I need any help I can get, and given the weather here at the moment, the sooner I can get that help, the better.

[Steve gee]

Be there done that:

In my case a 1979 Nissan Fairlady 280z left rotting under gum trees you could see your feet through the rust holes.

And a stolen and stripped 280ZX dropped in the Bellingen River on its roof 50 feet down.

The firewall is that FIREWALL to protect the occupants from geting an engine fire into the cab.

Its structural.

So you cant fix it with fibreglass or metal mend which can burn.

And any welding will have to have due regard to weakening that structure.

Metal mend and car glass are all well and good but brazing good old fashioned with brass sticks workes better.

Often with metal if its badly rusted you cant wire wled it just wont take.

Mig and TIG works with expertise.

Any bad rust can only be permanently repaired by cutting it out and repacing with metal.

A donor car for big job is worth the cost.

We always go for a bare metal respray as required with etch primer, tetrosil and rust stop the order of the day.

It takes hundreds of hours and hard work.

The firewall can maybe be fixed by cutting out a thin stainless steel pattern and rivetting it to the existing wall after sand blasting it and trating it with etch primer and fishoilene.

But all the holes for a/c speedo/ wiring/ heater hoses/ throttle and clutch cable, master cylinder are all issues.

The area in front of the Camry screen and below the vent is hard and will involve extensive repairs with the glass taken out.

Remember it is glued on.

If your mechanic said its stuffed he is possibly right.

Is it worth it in the end??

Used cars are cheap as chips how much is yours worth, how much when you spend the money to fix it?

I bought a whole VZV 21 Camry for $600 that I drive.

You be the judge.

ZEDMAN RESTORATION.

The white 280ZX stolen and stripped resored in 2006.

cheers

Edited August 24, 2008 by Steve gee

[Blade Hunter]

ZEDMAN RESTORATION.

The white 280ZX stolen and stripped resored in 2006.

cheers

Off topic but mate, they are just beautiful, good job on the resto.