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2008camrydriver

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Posts posted by 2008camrydriver

  1. On 5/1/2023 at 6:20 PM, hayden said:

    I would put the car on car stands and have a look at the suspension system. Use a pry bar to check and see anything is loose. Check and see if there’s movement on the steering rack while having someone steer for side to side. Also just check your tyres for wear pattern. Hopefully that should tells you your problem!!

    Hi, thank you yes that was my next step, I was just asking if my thinking was on the right track.

  2. Hi, I have a 2008 Camry with the dreaded left pull even after a wheel alignment. It's been an issue since I bough the car in 2018.

    I've read a bunch of information and I think I know what the issue is, but just wanted a second opinion before I go further.

    Toe is always able to be adjusted properly so is not a concern.

    The front Camber is different by half a degree side to side, with less negative camber on the left side which should cause it to pull right. I think it is set up like this to compensate for road crowning so I don't have concerns with this.

    However my main concern is the front caster, which is different by a quarter of a degree, with less caster on the left side which I think would be causing the left pull. From my reading this is most likely caused by worn bushings or a bent lower control arm (though I can't see anything obvious myself).

    Below are the figures from my last few alignments:

    Front:

    Parameter Left Camber
    Degrees & Minutes
    Right Camber
    Degrees & Minutes
    Camber
    Side to side difference
    Left Caster
    Degrees & Minutes
    Right Caster
    Degrees & Minutes
    Caster
    Side to side difference
    Left SAI
    Degrees & Minutes
    Right SAI
    Degrees & Minutes
    SAI
    Side to side difference
    Left Toe
    mm or degrees
    Right Toe
    mm or degrees
    Toe
    Side to side difference
    Target -0°45' -0°45' N/A 2°45' 2°45' N/A 12°20' 12°20' N/A 0mm 0mm N/A
    Margin for error (+/-) +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-1mm +/-1mm N/A
    2018
    Before -0°54' -0°19' N/A 2°29' 2°47' N/A 12°29' 13°03' N/A -1.9mm 2.9mm N/A
    After -0°54' -0°18' 0°36' 2°41' 2°53' 0°12' 12°29' 13°02' 0°33' 0mm 0mm 0mm
    2019
    Before -0°46' -0°22' N/A 2°33' 2°49' N/A 12°26' 12°54' N/A -0.9mm 1.5mm N/A
    After -0°46' -0°21' 0°25' 2°44' 2°57' 0°13' 12°26' 12°54' 0°28' 0mm 0mm 0mm
    2020
    Before -0°43' -0°25' N/A 2°26' 2°52' N/A 12°32' 12°53' N/A -1mm 0.1mm N/A
    After -0°43' -0°25' 0°18' 2°20' 2°57' 0°37' 12°31' 12°53' 0°22' 0mm 0mm 0mm
    2021
    Before -0°38' -0°29' N/A 2°23' 2°42 N/A N/A N/A N/A -5.9mm -1.0mm N/A
    After -0°35' -0°33' 0°2' 2°23' 2°42' 0°19' N/A N/A N/A 0.3mm 0.4mm .1mm

    Rear:

    Parameter Left Camber
    Degrees & Minutes
    Right Camber
    Degrees & Minutes
    Camber
    Side to side difference
    Left Toe
    mm or degrees
    Right Toe
    mm or degrees
    Toe
    Side to side difference
    Target -1°10' -1°10' N/A 2mm 2mm N/A
    Margin for error (+/-) +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-1mm +/-1mm N/A
    2018
    Before -1°35' -1°41' N/A 4.3mm 2.5mm N/A
    After -1°34' -1°42' 0°8' 2mm 1.9mm .1mm
    2019
    Before -1°45' -1°42' N/A 2.4mm 2.2mm N/A
    After -1°45' -1°42' 0°3' 2.5mm 2.1mm .4mm
    2020
    Before 1°40' -1°50' N/A 2.7mm 2.8mm N/A
    After -1°41' -1°46' 0°5' 2.2mm 2.2mm 0mm
    2021
    Before -1°33' -1°50' N/A 1.6mm 1.9mm N/A
    After -1°29' -1°54' 0°25' 1.6mm 2.0mm .4mm

    What are peoples thoughts?

  3. Hi, has anyone had issues installing these factory replacement, aftermarket head-units?

    https://oemaudio.co.nz/product/lumina-audio-toyota-camry-2006-2012-multi-media-unit-navigation-compatible-x/

    I bought one, and despite using the factory bracket and mounting holes, it ended up with a gap between the top of the radio and the air vents:

    20200824_181934.thumb.jpg.e562d75ddae1c52dc6654ca7ddbf9eda.jpg

    The company I'd bought it from maintains they've installed tons of these without an issue, so I'm thinking there was either something wrong with this particular one, or that they are drilling extra holes in the factory bracket when installing...not something you would think would be needed when installing something that is supposed to be made for this car. The rest of the stereo fit in well.

    I've seen heaps of similar ones on places like ebay and amazon, and some of the reviewers on those ones have had similar issues, but others have been fine so could just be a bad batch or poor quality control by whoever makes the actual hardware.

    I ended up getting my money back and got one of these instead: https://www.gtacarkits.com/product/toyota-camry-2007-2011-iphone-aux-kit/ 

    Just wondering if anyone else has tried a similar thing and what they needed to do to get it to work?

     

  4. Can you look at the attached diagram and point out where you believe it fell off from? There doesn't appear to be one for that specific belt. Since the belt forms a triangular loop, the alternator is where tension on the belt is adjusted from:

    beltr.jpg

    3vzfe.jpg

    Yeah, thats why I think it's not required, as the belt tension seems fine without it.

    The idler pulley sat just below the alternator pulley and pressed on the OUTSIDE of the belt. There is a thread for it on a bracket that comes off the side of the alternator.

    Does that make sense?

    The tech had installed it as when I got it back there was sqeeling sound coming from the engine (I assume this was because the idler was loose and in the process of falling off).

    Then the sqeeling stopped and when I went to find out why thats when I saw the idler pulley sitting on the floor of the engine bay. I remember it's location from previous work I've done on the car and confirmed the location of the thread for it.

  5. There are two idler pulleys for your engine, and the workshop manuals do actually say to inspect the idler pulleys for oil leaks and to make sure they turn smoothly. If one of the pulleys fell off, id suggest goin back to the mechanic and have him check all other pulleys. Heres a manual:

    http://camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen3/eg2.pdf

    page 48

    No, thats for the TIMING BELT. I'm after information the Alternator/A/C compressor belt idler (it's also called the 'fan belt'). I think if the one of the timing belt idlers had fallen off I would stranded with a big repair bill but as stated the car runs fine.

    I need to know if theres anything wrong with not re-installing this idler pulley.

  6. If it didnt need to be there Toyota wouldnt fit it in the first place. I think you should find another one.

    I guess I'm also trying to find out WHY it's there in the first place...it dosen't seem to need it. the belt is under the correct tension and there is no flex or slippage of the belt, even with hard revving of the engine.

    Also the fact that it's not mentioned in any of my workshop manuals (which would have the bolt torque) is interesting.

  7. Good morning all, I recently had the air con serviced on my 1994 3VZ-FE Camry and have noticed that the idler pulley for the Alternator/A/C compressor belt has fallen off (I think the tech didn't tighten the bolt back up properly). I'm just wondering if it needs to be re-installed as the belt is tight enough and I haven't noticed any side effects from it?

  8. Did a bit of diagnosing today and found the following:

    - When on maximum cooling the AC compressor works, the engine idles up like normal and the cooling fan speeds up to maximum. Looked at the sight glass and it is clear when running and foams up then clears when turned off. There is also a temp difference between the compressor inlet and outlet pipes.

    However the system is still working intermitantly, and the other day wasn't working when I got to work.

    I'm begining to think it's an electrical problem...just not sure exactly where. If it is it will most likley be a wiring issue or a faulty sensor issue, possibly the low pressure switch.

    Has any one had a similar issue? If so what was the outcome?

    To reiterate:

    When the system works it works great and like it always has since I got the car.

    When it dosen't the following happens when the fan is on and the AC button is pushed:

    The ac button lights up and stays lit. There is no sound of the ac compressor clutch engaging or the evaporator working and no engine idle up.

  9. Hi all. I live in quite a humid area so need the air con running on cold mornings to keep the window de-fogged, however the last few mornings the air con hasn't turned on as normal. The fan is on and when I push the 'AC' button the light comes on and stays no (no flashing) but theres no change in engine rpm or the tell-tale hissing of the evaporator working, and the windows stay fogged. The stange thing is that once the engine has warmed up a bit it works fine!!!

    I don't know if it's to do with the winter cold as it's worked fine before even when the car has been completely iced (which was only the other week!).

    I just want to know if someone else has had a similar issue or if anyones gotr any ideas before I start diagnosing.

    Quick stats:

    '94 V6 GL (NZ)

    374,000Km

    Manual air con system.

  10. I hate tailgaters the most ...

    When ever I see these asses, I slow down diliberately

    I usaully flash my hazard lights or brakes lights to tell them to backoff...If they don't I then slow down to increase my following distance from the car in front of me (if theres one) so if he stops I've gotmore time to stop slower and hopefully avoid the **** behind ending up in my boot!!

  11. I think you should drive to Sydney and grab some new tyres there! Places like Tempe Tyres do awesome deals!

    post-12738-1241739873.gif

    Just took my 94 V6 Camry for it's 6 monthly warrant of fitness and the tyre tread on all tyres was about 4mm, the same as last time. In that time I've done about 9,000kms in that time.

  12. Having read some of the Lemon guides out there, I'd still take it with a grain of salt.

    Some things they seem to be right on the money, other things they are completely off on, either biased/ill-informed or poorly researched.

    There'll be a reason why they haven't been fitted in Australian models, and I'd concentrate on improving active safety (tyres, brakes etc, things that prevent accidents) before worrying about passive safety (seatbelts, airbags etc, things that lessen accident damage/injury)

    In seeing the driving habits of my fellow commuters/holiday makers I think the best safety improvement I could have is an idiot detector. However I don't have the money nor the evil-genius to invent one and my car already has it's active safety sorted, short of retrofiting ABS.

    So if I can do something to improve the passive safety then I will.

  13. Just want to let you know it's illegal to fit 2nd hand seat belts on a car. So dont get them from the wreckers and its the only thing stopping you from flying out the windscreen. Buy new!

    Fair point...who sells new ones? Are they stocked by autoparts shops or do I need to go through Toyota?

  14. wow,

    that looks pretty interesting. i wish i had some info on this one for you. let me know how it goes. if its a relatively simple job then i may get it done as well.

    I know that the generation after mine has webber-grabbers so if can find them out of a car at the wreckers that has just broken down and not crashed or maybe buy new ones from toyota or an auto-parts supplier. No idea who sells them though.

  15. hard to say unless you know wats causing the sound.

    any ideas?

    Had a look inside the dash by removing the glove box and the rattle sounds like it'scoming from the gap between the air vent/underside of the top part of the dash. It actually sounds like the plastic inside the dash itself is rattling so maybe this would need to be replaced....fun.

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