1972rainman

Kit comes with manual and hole saw, may be use something sharp to indent a starting mark? -as you would use a center punch for steel. Holes are as simple as point and push. Thanks. Drilling the holes is the only part of the process that I am worried about. I know what you mean Bumpers are expensive. Can only suggest you measure, measure and measure again when you think it is all good, go make yourself a cup of coffee and come back after 15 minutes. If it still looks good check for level, measure once more then if still happy drill it. also give your self a whole morning or afternoon - get rid of time pressure. I like the masking tape idear. Good luck.

Kit comes with manual and hole saw, may be use something sharp to indent a starting mark? -as you would use a center punch for steel. Holes are as simple as point and push.

Well I bought a demonstrator 2008 ATX, because my wife is Pregnant and we have one child already, the lancer was just not big enough. The lancer had reversing sensors, thought it was a bit of a w@nk when we bought it, but it was there so we used it-for 4 years. Then I backed into a few car spaces in the ATX with out sensors- well what a difference. Rang Toyota $795 for reversing sensors- WTF?????? So………… I needed a result and was gonna drop dead before I paid $800 for a couple of beeps in reverse. You will need: Reversing sensor kit Very fine sandpaper/ steel wool Bit of cardboard Plastic primer and can of your cars paint colour 2 medium flat screw drivers Spirit level Measuring tape Wire coat hanger Marking pen Crimps / soldering irion Electrical tape Drill So I ordered a 4 sensor reversing kit from Hong Kong via Ebay=$50 delivered: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...alenotsupported My Aurion is Secana Silver So I went to the local Auto Pro (my local area Trade paint mixers) and they asked me for my cars paint code. I found it on a sticker in the passengers side door well. Because it was so “new” (2008) he said he could not mix an Identical colour (chemically identical) but could make up an approximation colour (close enough), so I said OK- I mean It was going to have to look better than 4 black round sensors on a silver bumper! So that was $25, then I bought a can of plastic primer another $10 and that was it. Went home cut 4 holes in a bit of card board with the drill bit from the kit, Rubbed the sensors with some 800 grit wet and dry( steel wool would also work), scuffed them all around, gave them 2 coats of plastic trim primer, then painted them approximate Aurion Secana Silver. The install First you have to remove the rear boot liner. Remove the screws that hold the top hooks on then pull the liner out then up, it is mounted with hidden pull clips (similar to how door trims are mounted) this picture shows you where the clips are. So you now need to remove the boot liner on the passenger side, 2 clips hold it in. no doubt there is some special tool that you can by for $120 that removes the clips/studs. Or you can use 2 medium flat screw drivers. I recommend removing the spare tyre and all of the crap above it, but you may get-way with not doing this. Next is electric control. You need to pull the big white plug behind the passenger side boot liner. There is only one. Open it and focus on the male / loom side. Here you can see the block, note the red wire, this is reverse gear +ve. Earth is a fat white wire with a black stripe. The Red wire you want is plain red and goes to a macro pin in the block, there is another red wire that had silver paint on it and went to a micro pin in the plug- leave this wire alone, You will know the macro and micro pins when you see it- it is obvious. Somehow you have to tap into the reverse gear +ve solder crimp whatever, for –ve / earth you can use the white wire with the black stripe or a tec screw into the body of the vehicle-whatever you feel is easiest. Because I am a pedantic fvk, I removed the pins from the male side for the white loom block, (using a small jewelers screw driver to hold the pin retaining clip in while pushing the pin out backwards) and soldered the power & earth wires for the reversing sensor to these pins. I then put the pins back into the blocks and plugged it all back together. Hole marking / drilling. Vertical spacing: 50mm down from the top bend in the bumper was a good height. However with the way the light bounced off the bend it was hard to get a precise measurement across all 4 holes. So I decided to measure up from the ground instead. Before measuring from the ground: Make sure the car is on a level surface. Make sure the car is setting level. I measured the heights from the ground to the bottom of the lower (bumper) brake light indicator 505mm, mine is a bog standard ATX. My passenger side was 5mm higher than the drivers so I fixed it by putting the spare on that side. After confirming that the car was sitting level I marked all the drill points at 615 mm off the ground. Horizontal Spacing: From the out side corner of the bumper light I went straight up (used a spirit level) and across inwards 60 mm, on both sides, giving both the out side sensor locations. Distance between the outside sensors divided by 3 = 421mm between each sensor. At the locations described, there was nothing behind the bumper to interfere with the sensors or drill bit. The supplied drill bit cut through the bumper plastic no worries. I used a wire coat hanger to thread the wires from hole to hole, using electrical tape to secure the sensor plugs to the end of the wire. In side the boot cavity under the passenger tail light there is a rubber bung, filling a hole that gos to the cavity behind the bumper. I drilled a 13mm hole in this bung and routed the wires through this bung into the boot. Here you can see the controller mounted with the supplied double sided tape. And the excess wire coiled and cable tied out of the way. I mounted the buzzer out of the way in the cavity (top front boot) just behind the rear seats between these two holes. You can easily hear the buzzer installed in that location, on my installation the buzzer switches from frantic buzzing to continuous buzzing at 15-20 cm from an object. I am very happy with the product, and the installation as well. Hope someone can use this took me about 4 hours but a lot of that was figuring out how to actually do it, with these instructions it should hopefully take you about half that.