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terryo

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Posts posted by terryo

  1. not a sensible question really. i have never attempted any comparisons and have no idea why anyone would bother. Once you find a ECU that will do everything, and you have a tuner that "likes" that brand/model, just stick with it. Modern engines like the 2GR require a massive amount of ECU computing power, inputs and outputs. I still have all the features like cam control, fly-by-wire throttle, launch control etc etc. Very few non-current ECU's can do this .I also have a matching Motec C125 dash to display data, warnings, etc. When i fitted the engine i had my own dyno, so that helped

     

  2. yes, of course its reliable if left largely standard,  stock boost etc

    i have fitted several into MR2's

    it takes about 2 man days just to to strip and carefully reassemble and engine like this, then whatever time is need to re-machine, clean, modify etc

    If you want to buy parts, then PM me as i have most stuff in stock 

  3. ive fixed a few of these engines and have one in my Lotus race car , so i'll try to educate some of you.

    the engines are quite simple to rebuild by modern engine standards however the timing chain set up is quite horrible and nearly all internal parts are horribly expensive, even non-genuine stuff. it would no longer be cost effective to fully recondition a stock engine in a stock Aurion as the value of the car is bugger-all. The TRD model uses an identical core engine but of course its worth a lot more due to the other stuff. 

    A basic rings and bearings "refresh" is still expensive due to the silly $ asked for gaskets sets and the man-hours requires to strip and reassemble 

    The con-rods are sintered metal, not forged. they are a well-known failure point in highly modified engines, but rarely give trouble in stock engines.

    The pistons are eutectic alloy, so quite tough for a high performance production engine and good enough for Toyota to accept them for the Aurion supercharged engine, albeit with low boost. Forged pistons and rods are always a good idea for highly modified engines because they will suffer a lot more abuse. Several vendors offer them 

    who-ever dreamed up this idea of rating conrods by HP is having a lend of you as its purely a marketing gimmick. in my engine building experiences, i've seen $50 chinese "forged" conrods work perfectly ok in 300HP/litre turbo engines... its the bolts that usually fail so if they have good bolts, and are properly machined, they are usually perfectly OK. 

    I worked with ACL to get the race series bearings made for this engine, but they wont make up for other deficiencies like sintered conrods

    i'll try to assist anyone with a specific tech question

    • Like 2
  4. do you still have the coil-overs??. if so, please meansure the lenght of the rear ones. from the centre of the lower mount up to the underside of the mounting plate . I want them for another project.

    also, can you send me a decent pic of the top mounting plate for the rear shocks so i can see how the shocky shaft bolts in.

    my direct email is tobeirne@skillpro.com.au

    thanks

  5. i know its a bit old, but any updates to this??

    I'm looking at ZZw30 upgrade. so far, the suggestions of Celica and 2ZZ/123 Sportivo wont fit , as the mounting bolt pattern is different.

    I've also tried AE111 superstrut ones, and they wont fit either

  6. to save a lot of questions, i've checked with Toyota and determined all parts that are all different to the stock or Sportivo Aurions

    F&R brakes. I was looking to get $1200 for the 4 wheel set of calipers, pads & rotors. at this time, i'm not keen to split the set. I cant tell you what other models these will fit beside the Aurion/Camry family

    F&R shocks with springs (slightly lower springs and different damping in shocks) . Looking for $600 for all 4

    Front bumper and lower spoiler etc. There is a small crack in the lower spoiler and various scratches on the top section of the bar (but no dents). Looking for $800

    engine with supercharger, loom & computer. There is some superficial damage to a few wires but none of it appears broken or missing. Looking at $5500

    if you think the prices are a bit high, then check out the new price then contact me. I might l haggle a little if you turn up with cash. i'm happy to send pics if you are serious buyer, not a time waster. call me on 0417-687161. i wont reply to phone text messages. located redbank plains, QLd. i will happily take to local E-go depot if you organsie shipping

  7. i'm currently fitting a 2GR into a MR2 race car (done the swap before). for this application, we are sticking with the factory computer as it will have enough power as-is and does not justify the cost of a Motec or similar. if some has done reasonable research i'll happily buy a relatively cheap tuning product and test it on my dyno and psot up how it goes.

  8. the GT4 box will bolt on to any S engine. The 205 & caldina versions have some different bolt holes down around the bottom, compared with 185 type box

    the centre diff may be an issue with no load on the front wheels. i'll have to think about the ramifications

    the viscous coupling limits the rear diff torque and its not designed to handle full engine power.

    see www.roadandtrack.net.au. there is an article on E code gearboxes

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