rob323

Factory idle speed is 650-700 rpm. You should not adjust the idle as it is controlled by the ecu.

If the car is dropping below 650rpm at idle and stalling or shaking, then do the following:

Clean the maf sensor with some contact cleaner (or even brake clean).

Remove the throttle body from the car and give it a good clean out as well.

Remove the idle control valve from the bottom of the throttle body and give it a good clean as well.

If none of the above solve the problem, then the cause is most likely a stuffed idle control valve.

Hello all!

Recently i lost the only key i had for my 2002 Echo. I have a spare cut, but that only gets into the car, it won't start with the cut key. When i try starting the car, it turns but doesn't start. The security light flashes the whole time. So i deduced there must be some sort of transponder in the key that i lost, and now cannot start my car. Is there any way i can bypass the security setting? Toyota say its gonna cost $900 for a new computer and transponder key. I don't have that kind of money!! So any ideas on how i can get my car driving again?

Any help is muchly appreciated!

Yoz!

Yes the stock key has a chip in it. I have tried many times to find a way to brpass the security without success. Rumour has it that some locksmiths are able to program new keys to suit your ecu best to do the ring around and see what they say.

Ptherwise, you will have to get a replacement key with matching ignition barrel and matching ecu to be able to start it.

Let me know how you go.

Easy things to check first:

Loose exhaust head shield some where.

Not so easy:

Alternator or waterpump bearings on the way out.

vvti solenoid gunked up

timing chain tensioner faulty or worn guides.

Try to pin point the noise, us a long extension bar or a large screw driver like a stethoscope to determine where the sound is coming from.

Echo motors idle very low and do shake things around, especially when idling under load.

The more rallies I do, the more I think that the front/ rear distribution of a front wheel drive does not and should not be anywhere near 50:50.

I think the whole 50:50 thing is definately correct for rear wheel drive and possibly AWD but my car at 69:31 f/r is taily enough as it is. I certainly wouldn't want any more weight down the back.

Got a link, i want to do this to the vitz.

and yes, only for looks.

Sorry for the tardy response, I don't always get email notifications from this board.

I haven't seen any tutorials on how to do it but I know Johnny has done it to his Echo.

http://yarisfans.com/forum/yaf_postst39_My-Echo---.aspx

Hi

Has anyone ever performed a drum to disc conversion on an echo?

Been done plenty overseas. No one in Australia has done it though to my knowledge.

Why do you want rear discs? looks?

The auto ecu survived a 50km flogging last night and has learnt well, timing advance is up and fuel trims down from the factory default.

No limp home mode so we are good to go for the rally.

Thanks for the links to the locksmiths, I will definately be getting in touch with them after the event.

It won't happen overnight, but it WILL happen!

The Adaptronic is on the bench presently, the next step is to make a plug and play harness for it.

Thanks for that link, I'll check with them in due course. I managed to get an auto ecu yesterday and it works. It throws the check engine light due to not having a manual instead of an auto though.

I'll hopefully be able to go for a decent drive tonight just to make sure it doesn't crack the poops and go into limp home mode.

One more bug, will hopefully get it sorted tonight, and then my 2NZ to 1NZ conversion will be complete.

Anyone planning on heading up to see the action in 1.5 weeks time?

There will be quite a few Toyota's of all ages competing (including mine hopefully).

What they will do is, They will program the key to that ecu. So your immoboliser disarm's i rang my freind he lost there number sorry dude

Trouble is that you need the master key to start with to be able to program other keys. :(

cant you just go to a wreker and buy a ECu and key?

Yes, already tried that but $650 is a bit much to swallow.

oh right... um would a yaris ecu work?

Unfortunately no, totally different system (CANbus).

If you were in sydney i know people that know how to disalarm the immoboliser.

I would be curious to find out more if you could put me in touch with them please. Everyone I've spoken to including some very knowledgeable Toyota Techs say it can't be done as you can't flash the ecu and once it is set to suit a particular key, it's set that way for good.

Theres a full Echo at one of the self serves down my way Rob, next time i go i will note the engine , ECU and also if the key is there. Will be tomorrow if all goes to plan with work.

That would be very much appreciated if you could.

Please check the model though, the plug configuration changed on the ecu mid 2002. I need one from a 1999-2002.5 model.

No key. The ecu itself is absolutely worthless without the key as you can't disarm the immobiliser. I have two 1.5 litre ecu's here which are basically paperweights for that reason.

I'm hoping someone here can help me out please. I would like to borrow/ hire someone's ecu and key for 2 weeks. It needs to be from a 1999-2002 Echo Sedan or sportivo with a 1.5 litre motor.

If I can get this, it will allow me to compete in the International Rally of Queensland in 2 weeks time, a prestige 2 day event. We have been hanging out for this event since competing in it last year.

I am happy to pay for all postage and willing to assist with some suitable compensation if someone can help me out.

I have just finished swapping a 1.5 litre motor over into my car and the ecu and key supplied with the motor won't talk to each other and therefore won't disarm the immobilizer making the ecu and key useless and no-one to my knowledge has been able to find a workaround to overcome this problem. And without a solution, such as another ecu and key, all my car prep over the 2 months will have been in vain.

Desperately yours,

Rob.

Tried this one?

TSB

Hey guys. I got my brand new BC BR Coilovers installed in my 2003 Toyota corolla sportivo 2months ago and there were no problems and everything was all sweet handling and everything. However 2 days ago a noticed a slight sound at the front left of my car but thought nothing of it. It then started together a tad bit louder. So I checked out the front left coilover, nothing was loose so I changed the damper settings to full stiffness at the fronts. The knocking noise was Way louder and sounded pretty bad. So I change the settings back to full softness and the sound only knocks on bumps on the road but no sound happens during turns, only bumps. Anyone had this problem before? Any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks

Hit the big nut on the top of the strut with a rattle gun in case it wasn't done up tight enough. If that is tight, and the nuts holding the camber plates to the strut tower are tight, then it is probably the spherical bearing in the strut top wearing out.

did you ride in your coilovers?

youre suppose to have the damper set on zero for about 1000km

after that you play around with the settings, if not, you can cause them to leak and knock.

you also have to avoid pot holes and major bumps in the road.

they will cause damage to your coilovers

That's a new one

My 2NZ to 1NZ swap began on the weekend, hopefully it will be finished next weekend.

A stock 1NZ motor will take about 8-10 psi of boost before it will through a rod through the side of the block.

You can spend about $1000 on an exhaust and intake to gain a couple of kw, maybe even 3kw if you are lucky. Or get a piggyback to play around with timing and fuel to get about another 5kw, but that's pretty much it without spending serious $$ on cams, aftermarket management, forced induction etc.

Better to drop a 1NZ in instead and then go from there.

By the way, Toyota suck, they want $200 for the tiny little 1NZ water pump.

A 1NZ with the auto will be fine and probably the cheapest option (1NZ plus ecu plus key should be under a grand, much less if you hunt around). Faaaar cheaper than building a hypo NA motor.

The auto won't last without some internal strengthening if you turbo or supercharge the car though.

I'm just about to start on my 2NZ to 1NZ conversion this weekend. Any hiccups will be reported on my thread at Ozecho.

I have a 4pk1190 on mine (with air con).

What would make for a good suspension upgrade?

My link