jtfoto

Sorry, my bad. I am using 235/45-18's.

Speedo is only out by 3km/h compared to GPS.

I have been running the 18x8 on 235/40/18 on my 2008 ATX and could not be happier.

If you do a search on the forums re exhaust changes for the Aurion I think you will find that Toyota did a pretty good job with the standard exhaust.

Trying to make it better/louder just results in a loss of performance and droaning.

I would take it back to standard.

Just my 2c worth.

They know that it is a known issue so They fixed it for free.

Tell them that you are not paying.

I have had mine repaired by Toyota three times.

All they do is replace the grease with heavier stuff.

It is starting to knock again now for me as well. Time to get them to regrease.

It is nmot a safety issue.

Thanks for following up mate.

Yep all good. Fired up like there was no tomorrow.

Probably just had a slightly bad battery connection.

thanks again.

I have checked battery fluid levels and cleaned terminals and have put the battery on the charger to run overnight.

Hopefully that may give the required result.

I will check battery condition after charging, but it should be ok as battery is only 10 months old.

Thanks for your help mate.

Yep.

Sounds almost identical.

No I did not do the interior. Was going to do that tomorrow.

I will check out the battery level and see if that helps.

Cheers trentmeyer23.

Thanks for this link, but I don't think contact wear in the solenoid is the problem.

It must be water in a connection somewhere as it was starting perfectly prior to giving the engine bay a light hose.

Can anyone point me in the correct direction of the connection that could be the problem?

I have 2007 ATX and washed it this afternoon.

I gave the engine bay a very light hose out to just remove dust. Did not use any pressure.

Now engine will not start. There is power but all I get is a very fast clicking (that seems to be coming from the starter motor area)  but no starter engagement.

Is there a particular connector that may have water in it that could be the major cause?

So if this has been discussed previously but I could not find anything with a search.

TIA.

I'd be looking at wheel bearing/s or a suspect tyre next.

Just thought I had better follow up on this one.

Better late than never.

The bar was happily replaced under warranty.

I was advised that it should never break they have not seen one break before.

Replacement was sent very quickly.

Could not be happier with Ultra Racing.

I was under the impression when I bought it that they were good.

A lot of guys on this forum were recommending them so I made that assumption.

I am wondering if anyone else has had a problem with them after some kms have been put on them.

The rust section I mentioned appears inside the bar near its centre and the metal looks very ganulated, crystaline and uneven at this point.

It looks like some sort of tempering error.

Yes I have good photos of it, both insitu prior to removing it and of each side of the break after removal.

You are right, I probably am pushing s%^t up hill with regard to any warranty but I still believe there must have been a manufacturing fault given the appearance of the break.

I like to corner reasonably hard but nothing I would call excessively hard. So I don't think that my driving style really had anything to do with it breaking.

I also don't have a steap drive way with a bad approach angle.

I will give Ultra Racing a chance but I won't hold my breath.

It is the real thing direct from Ultra Racing.

That appears to be exactly what happend.

I think they should cover it if it had a manufacturing fault as a bar should never break under normal driving conditions.

I don't race the car or drive that hard. I only fitted it to try and reduce the terrible body roll.

When I purcahse my 2007 ATX I fitted the Ultra Racing 19mm rear sway bar.

That was approx 3 years ago.

Lately the handling was rubbish and I assumed it was wheel alignment.

Upon jacking up the car the sway bar had snapped on the right hand side just inboard of the mounting bracket.

After removing it and replacing with the original bar it was obvious that the Ultra racing bar had a definate fault.

There was a band of rust right across the middle of the break with only 2 points of solid metal.

It finally gave way on the solid part.

My question is...has anyone else experienced a breakage with the ultra racing bar.

I really feel like getting all over them like a cheap suit as one would not expect a bar to just break on a normal road car.

Can someone also give the contact for the importer of these bars as I can no longer find it.

Cheers.

I have an ATX 2007 with 18in wheels, Ultra Racing Sway bar and front strut brace.

Whilst the handling is much improved over the standard setup I still find the suspension soft and choppy.

My question is to anybody who may have King springs with standard shocks or King springs with KYB shocks.

How much is the car actually lowered (in inches..I'am old LOL) and does the stiffer springs improve the handling at the expense of comfort.

Is there any problem running King springs with standard shocks?.

Stupid questions probably, but personal experience may save me spending money for no real benefit.

I think you missed my point A Buff Hamster.

I am talking about the black plastic rings that fit on the hub to centre the wheel...not hub caps.

Anybody else help.

Hi Guys,

Are the plastic hub rings that are fitted standard to Aurion metal wheels needed when you go to alloys?.

One tyre dealer said they throw them away immediately and another said I should always use them.

Opinions please.

Hi guys, having trouble trying to find the widest tyre to fit the ATX on 18in rims.

Was thinking of running 245/40-18'S.

Do you think I would run into scrubbing issues.

The suspension is standard plus UR sway bar and front brace.

Any relevant help appreciated.

Hi all,

I was just wondering if some people knew of somewhere I can buy carpet for the Boot? Building a mount for my amp and I just need a couple of meters of carpet to cover it. Autobarn and supercheap said they won't order it in for me, and I can't really think of anywhere else.

If you go to a marine dealer they sell carpet by the metre. They use it for covering boat decks in aluminium tinnies.

It is available in a light grey and a dark grey....reasonably affordable.

I have been a lurker here now for about a year since purchasing an ex Toyota Aust 07 ATX.

Firstly I have found this forum extremely helpful and enjoyable.

My ATX has only just approached 40K's and started to get the dreaded steering knock.

Took it to dealer and mentioned intermediate shaft...after checking the car they said they would replace the whole steering rack as they believed this is the problem.

My question is whilst the replacement intermediate shaft has a different part number, has Toyota made any adjustment/fixes to the steering rack.

My concern is that having failed at only 40K's I certainly don't want to have to replace again out of warranty in another 40-50K's.

Here is my setup.

Wheel Brand/Design: Panther vectors

Wheel size: 18"

Wheel width: 7.5"

Wheel offset: +45

Tire size: 225-45-18 Toyo Proxes 4

Suspension type: Stock AT-X plus 19mm rear swaybar and front strut brace

Feedback: no problems at all. Might try 235-45-18 Khumos next time as speed is slightly out with Toyos and the Toyos are bloody loud on the road.

Man, if I knew this before hand I would have made a carputer instead.. Oh well, its still a good unit.

Yeah, same here. I figured if this unit breaks, I'm going to gut it out and build a mini Mac into it.

That would be sick. I've seen a few on the net that look awesome.. I would probably do a Linux based one.

Do you find your self cruising with the GPS always on screen. I have a feeling I will be having the GPS on 24/7 with the music in the background just becasue the GPS interface looks so much nicer. The music interface looks exactly the same as a very cheap portable dvd player I own.

Can anyone who has installed one of these units tell me whether the brightness of the panel at night is any less intense than the factory unit.