SCOOTA44

The starter motor is under the airbox, or in my case under the K & N intake. There is one wire to remove then two bolts to release it. Change over time is approximately half an hour. Yes it was the starter motor.

The experiment I have at the moment is that the system is a full twin exhaust, I have had one cannon muffler removed and it has a cackly bark when stomped on from the straight pipe bank, the only downside is a momentary fluffy sound approaching idol. Will wait until I get the other side matched up before deciding if it needs any more mufflers, and choice of tips.

The video didn't work

Has anyone encountered a non responsive TFT screen, and is there any way of fixing them?

I had the same wires break, and even though that part isn't used with the K&N intake, it is part of an electrical circuit that can't be broken.

After removing the K&N heatshield and with a few taps on the top of the starter motor got it going. I have now removed the starter motor and awaiting some $$$ to replace it.

Straight pipes instead of mufflers.

Sound win. not stupid loud aswell. can take a video if you are interested

I would be interested indeed. Thank you

In the engine bay, does it sound like a "clack" type sound?

If so, you can get some one to hold the key in the start position and give the body of the starter a whack. If it starts, the brushes could be worn.

Thanks for that, there is no sound from the starter motor at all. I'm picking up another set of relays tomorrow (Friday) and see if they were the culprit.

Now when I try there is a squealing sound from in the back of the engine at ignition on, and the "check VSC" is now showing too :/

Is there a click when it doesn't start?

There is in the relay in the engine bay, and in another one in the left footwell/glovebox area.

Hello it's been a while, but I still have The Maroon Monster but have not done a lot to it. I have a starting problem which started as an intermittant one and now wont sart at all. Turn the key and there is no power getting down to the starter motor. I would leave it for a while and then it would start later. Not the case now. I have tried to swap relays with a new one, disconnect the battery for a while but nothing. Could it be in the ignition system or the anti theft system?

I got a quote to fix my oil leak, which the engine needs to be dropped out, at $3800 ! I couldn't afford that !

Did they give you a detailed report? Parts required, etc? Also what mileage is your car on- Its hard to believe you've got an oil leak that's not related to the oil cooler pipe?

I had that oil pipe replaced under warranty early in the piece. It has 316k on it now. It was bought to my attention when the new transmission was being installed. That was 110K ago

Just a decent muffler for the 4 cyl would do the trick.

The leak is coming from the timing chain cover, above the power steering pump, and up against the firewall. The quote they gave included removing all the covers and renewing the sealant.

Jeez! I havn't done my yet too! i've done 115,000 k's I was reading the other day I think Scotty's thread his trans died aftere the service. and the trans oils was suppose to be sealed for life like 150,000 or more. It was a premature drain of oil that fried the trans.

Should I get this done? Toyota love exaderating labour charges. as per my invoices in an earlier thred regarding the engine rod.

I had mine done at 150K and at 210K main clutch bearing let go. The new trans has done 105K and apart from holding 3rd gear when cold it's going ok.

Anyone else tried twin systems at all ? Still happy with mine !

I got a quote to fix my oil leak, which the engine needs to be dropped out, at $3800 ! I couldn't afford that !

3 Months on and it has settled in well, sounds great, and turns a few heads. Unfortunately we have not had a track day to test it out, due to my licence restrictions. Maybe soon.

Another run today <iframe src="https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=4969260357749" width="320" height="240" frameborder="0"></iframe>

After giving time for the computer to catch up, the fuel economy is around 10.5 lt/100 km, there seems a bit more kick. The test will be on the track here at Baskerville Raceway Hobart late next month. I'm very happy with the result so far. :)

Just another thing I should replace now too with my 2007 Sportivo with 311K on the clock with original pump still working. I do remember with my MCV36 it was replaced at the 300K timing belt change , regardless if it was worn out or not. Something to tthink about seeing the 2GR-FE has a timing chain, and the waterpump can be forgotten.

Have you ever noticed the pressure when removing the fuel cap at the servo, well that pressure will be forcing it's way past the weak spot. New bolt and seal required.

Should get mine checked, they have done over 310K with no problems.

Do you have original shocks? If so 310K sounds about right. We need to remember, these sort of cars (or any car toyota makes) are built to last. I'm sure Toyota make things like shocks and so on so they will last for thousands of KM's before needing to be checked/replaced.

Its all original, apart from the left rear strut, that was replaced under warranty.

I guess all I have attracted with this mod is a bunch of whingers about the size of my signature ! MEH !