imek

kcorro,

I think that aluminium and machining are all the same, don't matter if in the USA, Japan or Mongolia... If you take the correct material and program the machine to cut the correct shape, it should be allright.

They use UR, because its the only company offering it, and its quite pricey pulley ($250)... notice, that AEM doesn't offer crank pulley for 2zz-ge, alhough it has them on offer for 1zz-fe and the whole spectrum of engines... 2zz-ge seems to be the only one with the alternator pulley only... makes you think...

PPl on newcelica.org came to conclusion that it's the lack of the dampener that kills the engine -- and morevoer, the engine dies not when you're autocrossing or racing, but when you're criusing with constant speeds and revs.

Man, read newcelica.org on light pulleys. They have been known for blowing 2zz-ge oilpump, and the engine... Not a recommended mod for Sprotivo.

TRD CAI adds about 3 fwhp and looses torque in the midrange. That's what my dynos say. They however can be wrong...

You can benefit from it only by installing piggyback/standalone

Hello.

Take a look at the pisc from our latest CC meet.

There are 841 pictures.

http://www.corollaclub.org/index.php?s=zlo....28_kielce&sid=

Just scroll down, click a pic to enlarge, click one of the numbers below the pisc to see next page.

You get best results by porting your stock headers. Some newcelica.org users reported as much as 5 whp throughout the band.

Somebody posted a URL of a tuner shop in singapore, that had a lot of Sportivo parts... I cannot find the link thou, does anyone remember it?

It wolud be really cool to meet! :D

I don't know exactly, as I'm flying to Bangkok, then want to see Angkhor Wat, and then travel down to Singapore... It's really hard to tell how much time it'll all take... but I'm assuming its gonna be 2nd od 3rd week of August...

Hello.

I'll be visiting Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia and Singapore this August. Is it worth the effort to bring the parts for our Stivos from these places? I imagine in Thai, Camb and Mal may be difficult to find some garages, but Singapore should be easy... Do you know any shops that sell aftermarket Toyota parts?

Any info appreciated. Thanks.

Hey, whats wrong with you, man? Why are you picking on me again. Did I insult anybody again?

I didn't say i'm know physics. I was just wondering what parts of the bar transfer the forces -- outside layers or inner... and said that people who know physisc could say more on that. Get it?

And yes, material is most important. Hollow titanium will be stronger than solid aluminium of the same thickness (depending on the diameter of the hollow part, of course). Get it?

You can have the same differences (of course not as extreme) in steels, as one bar could be made of a stronger type vs. the other of the softer one. Get it?

Another good informative topic ruined because of somebody's prejudice... ehhh...

rox,

From matrixowners.com I know that the most happy users are those with rear sway bar only. Many people say stock front is stiff enough and for everyday driving and occasional trackday stock front/aftermarket rear (progress in the US) is the perfect combo. There are even people who reverted back to stock in the front...

solid/hollow - of course, makes a huge difference. The question thou is - for the knowledgeable in physics - where do the forces concentrate (sway bar acts like a spring).

As for materials -- I'm sure there are lots of different steels with different "spring rates".

Progress has additional triangle reinforcements strengthening the joint between the horizontal bar and vertical mounting "sockets"...

TRD and Hotchkis snap all the time. Read user feedback on matrixowners.com. It just needs a good milage to break.

enligtened?

I just checkegd, Progress is also 22mm solid.

Stiffness depends more on material than being solid/hollow.

TRD and Hotchkis swaybars snap at welds, Whiteline has exactly the same design. I chose Progress b/c of its unique design with reinforcements in places where TRD breaks.

sorry, the www is http://www.progressauto.com/

22 mm hollow.

www.progress.com

fits perfectlty. designed for the heavier matrix, so prolly stiffer than whitelne. bought it for $120 shipped US -> PL. Look for Petertracks at www.matrixowners.com, and he'll give you a bargain quote.

Designed to work with stock front, eliminates understeer almost totally, which cannot be said about front+rear combo. all you need to know is in the suspension section of the above mentioned forum.

ps.

Did I sense a bit od annoyment or agression in your post?

Progress Rear Sway Bar = 90USD

IZZ-FE.

TRD unit does come with the ECU. Still it's possible to buy the blower alone.

Pecker,

Stock 2zz-ge injectors are good up to 300 hp, so i don't think you need new ones, unless you're planning to rebuild your engine.

Also, the unichip or smt6 or e-manage would be sufficient, if you;re not planning to lower the lift.

No, the rotrex is far easier.

you only need bracket (already designed), belt and IC piping

whereas with eaton you have to make all intake new...

Rotrex comes with its own, independent oiling system with cooler, so if you change oil, its gonna be as reliable/durable as eaton. It just needs more maintenence.

And 300 hp in FWD is most welcomed. Some newcelica guys have over 400 whp, and they're most happy with that.

Are you willing to give up on side airbags?

Go to

www.newcelica.org

choose

Forums

choose

Search

type in your query, and you gonna get all your questions asked.

Thanks for the info IMEK

Question though: if the rotrex is easier to install and better for power why would Lotus decide on the eaton... there must be a benefit to it....  are they more efficient perhaps?

←

No, centrifugal are most efficient.

I guess Lotus chose Eaton because (all IMHO):

- Garage Frey develped an Eaton-based SC for 2zz-ge

- This project has been taken over TTE

- So basicly the everything has already been developed

- Eatons have internal clutch/boost control (vs in centrifugal you have to use external boost controler)

- Eatons allow for less tampering, and even when tampered with, their limited efficiency does not allow for strong overboost, which could be fatal with stock internals

- Eatons are "maintanance free", whereas in centrifugal rotrex you have to change oil.

I'd go for Rotrex centrifugal. Install is far easier, it has been done, plus when you decide to upgrade internals the blower is capable od 300 hp. Eaton wouldn't cope.

Here is a text and pisc from a british owner:

This is my post from the centrifgal chargers thread, I am reposting it here as some seem to have missed it completely. Please read this through and think about it, then if you need any further info, give me a shout at simon@mygto.co.uk info and advice is free and I would love to see people making these themselves rather than paying through the nose for someone else to sell them my work.

Note: If nyone is stuck getting brackets made, I can sort this out, if I get numbers I will get a cost price, no problem at all, basring in mind I usually pay about £10 a piece for em.

ok, Im going to post up how to do this here as I dont want to have to give the same info over and over, if anyone has specifics then email me direct at simon@mygto.co.uk

bracket, made from 8mm 304 grade stainless steel, I have these laser cut, drawing is here in autocad format www.mygto.co.uk/celica/gen7Brkt.dwg. You will note that there are a couple of holes missing for mounting bolts, its easier to spot them through on the car than it is to transfer them to the drawing, im not that good with Autocad , this drawing has been used to produce all the brackets on the four setups I have sold/completed.

On the 190 you may need to remove some of the alternator mounting bracket which is used in europe to mount up the EGR crap, just bin all that and grind away the excess material, easy job.

on both cars the aircon pipes require modification, one can be moved by hand (gently please) the other will need to be cut and welded, its very self explanatory when your fitting the SC, I was looking into producing replacement modified pipes but removing it requires that you take out almost everything from the drivers side (UK) of the car, PITA, so weld in situ, make sure you remove the valve first as it has a rubber seal which will melt, keep the joint to the rubber pipe cold with water or it will also melt, remember, ally transfers heat like a good un.

intercooler, I used an item off the shelf here i the UK, no need to go mental on the size, the Rotrex doesnt get that hot so you dont need a big unit like you would on a turbo. mount this as close as possible to the aircon condensor, not touching but damn close. You will have to move the silly power steering cooler bar thing, I replaced mine with a miniature oil/air cooler, although I ran it on track for a good few sessions without any cooler at all with no ill side effects.

rotrex SC - I used the SP30-94, they have discontinued this and are now using the C38 range, contact them directly and ask for the new equivalent, I am certain the mounting and body sizes are the same so the bracket will still work. The crank pulley is 127mm, do th math to get the SC pulley diameter. Get an oil cooler with the SC, it'll come with the right fittings etc and will help the SC last longer, mount this up in the drivers wheel arch.

idler pulley, you will need an idler pulley to tension up the belt and run it round all the pulleys correctly, I used a PBT8022 from a UK supplier, the part number will most likely mean nothing to anyone else but I do know it was off a toyota of some description. it doesnt need to be adjustable, just a bolt through the middle, spaced off the bracket about 1mm and the same width as the PK6 belt.

drive belt, hmmm cant for the life of me remember the length of this, its a stock item off the shelf PK6 belt though so you shouldnt have too many issues getting one.

Fuel system, dont muck about with this one, fit yourself a ne wpump, 255lph is just dandy, dont muck about with the 3bar pop valve in the tank, your only uprating the pump to maintain flow. Injectors, I used 440cc on the kits, my 140 ran 550cc but then it was about 300bhp to the wheelies, go with the 440cc injectors on either car, the 190 will be close to maxing them out at full tilt but it will work fine.

Piping, take the simplest route possible, minimum number of bends etc, you can have it custom made and mandrel bent or just use silicone bends, its easy stuff.

Dump valve, fit a recirc, needs to go in the pressure side of the SC near to the outlet and back into the SC intake after the MAF and breather pipework.

ECU, I used a Power FC, if you have an auto this wont work so get a greddy emanage, dont think you will obtain the same high numbers on the emanage but it will work and you will have a good fast car.

spark plugs, fit yourself a set of iridium plugs, I used NGK, dont believe in getting shafted by HKS and Denso, never had a problem with the NGK.

thats about it really, its bloody obvious how it all goes together, if you collect all the bits together and are reasonably competent with a spanner etc you should be able to complete the install in about two days.

Other things to consider.

LSD, get one if you can, I used the quaife, its an excellent bit of kit, it may be difficult to get hold of now but I do know there are other options, well worth it.

Clutch, I used a totally stock aftermarket replacement item, flywheel was also stock, I had no issues with the clutch, dont believe everything you read, if you are not a complete spaz on the pedal it will work just fine.

brakes, you will definitely need to do something here, the stok items are just not man enough when you get the power up like this, I had a custom 330mm with 6pots from KAD here in the UK, they are expensive but damn good and guranteed to break your teeth on the steering wheel,

MAP sensor. If your going for the Power FC it is a nice mod to fit the MAP sensor from a JDM supra, this simply wires into the existing cabling for the MAF sensor and replaces the feedback wire to the ECU with the signal from the MAP sensor. take power for the MAP sensor from the TPS. If you dont know how to work with these sensors then leave well alone orp you will give yourself no end of grief. I found the MAP sensor gave a perfect fire up and idle no matter what the weather conditions. If you do this then you may also want to source a replacement AIT, this should be mounted as close to the TB as possible, I was looking into this but got bored with the car and sold it.

the last thing that I would suggest you seriously consider is a wideband O2 setup, I use the kits from WBO2.com, they are superb and cheap, do NOT attempt to tune without one.

I shall leave you with some pics so you can see my 140 engine with all the bits attached, the 190 will look much the same. I hope that someone picks this up and has a go, its not a difficult job and someone (me) has done the donkey work already. I dont expect to see anyone manufacturing this as a kit for commmercial gain, you need to ask first, this is my work and I expect some recognition for it. Other than that, enjoy and get blown.

I don't find the words you quoted insulting at all.

Maybe I really need to practice my english, but remember it's not my mother tongue. The words translated to Polish don't sound insulting or whatever. Maybe you should consider this. I really didn;t mean to patronize anyone. Just gave my suggestions, wrote what I think.

I also think, that taking such words so personally, might mean the lack of self esteem and belief in ones capabiliters, and - in this context - of car's capabilities.

I do not mean to be arrogant, maybe my wording was incorrect. So, for the 3rd time here, I apologize everyone who felt insulted.

1) He never says positive things

I do, but even if I didn't does it mean there's no room for me here?

2) He hangs **** on the driving styles and abilites of the Aussie Members

NEVER did that. In fact I already said I respect you (2 times), and that Aus drivers are probably more experienced drag racers than PL ones, and so on... YOU put in my mouth words I've never said.

3) He makes claims and accusations in relation to the ability of his car and it's supposed performance abilities over ours claiming it is our 'drivers'

Never accuse. Never praise the abilities of my car.

Saying that you need practice is based on that I have the most modified car and I'm the slowest in my group... My car has potential bu I lack knowledge.

4) He makes claims in relation to his own vehicle performance, and that of his fellow Poles that seems at times, unbelievable.

I posted the timeslip...

Then doesn't publish or post evidence of claims until he was absolutely hounded,

Hey, I explained the situation. I thought it was posted somewhere. When I realized it wasn't I immediately posted the timeslip. Besides I said I was sorry... I apologized you? Is that not enough?

and then did not show proof of the claim that was actually being made (I am referring to the claim of stock Sportivo's being capable of mid 14's)

Do I have to post a physical proof of what i THINK is possible?

If the guy is going to make claims, like telling the forum that his car will rev to 7K when idling and being able to launch at this limit, then I ewant to see proof, and I am sure alot of other TOCAU'ers do too.

I already said a few posts back that I'll make a vid. Why don't you read carefully instead beating the crap all over. You may get some of it splashed otno your face. Be careful.

If Imke claims that 'stock' Sportivo's (T-Sports) can do mid 14's, then I want to see time cards and preferably from the owners of these cars...

I don't claim. I think. See the difference?

If Imek is going to contribute to the conversations, debates, discussions and laughs like the rest of us, then I will welcome him like every other member...

And if not, what you are going to do? Ban me? Don't be ridiculous, man... Do I have to write what YOU like to be a worthy member? Are you playing G OD now?

Ok, I'll take some vids to show you, when i put on new tyres. Maybe I'm not describing it as I should.

There was a vid of this launch method done by some british owner who did 14,8 on Santa Pod - in a total stocker, but I'm looking for it for 2 days now, and cannot find. Cannot remember his nick too...

I'm losing, because the fastest guy CAN launch from 7000 rpm far better than me... Its not that easy. Im still practicing...

I'd use 20W/15W - 50

Castrol (only TWS)

Motul

Valvoline

http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/geti...0Oil%20Analysis