SXN16V
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Posts posted by SXN16V
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is that a full functional top vent? or just rice to increase drag?
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Not really a problem as there is knock sensors built into the cars so it will retard the timing if it detects ping.
Some Motorsport and Rally style tuned cars run on Local Pump gas of 95-98Octane with high compression 12-13ratio pistons.
I'll show you a good example of the knock sensor working to retard timing + power on my engine :(
Works sort of like a fuel cut..
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Some of our fellow club members have got the Koni sports suspension?? What is that??
1. Is that the one from Whiteline?? Is it from the Whiteline suspension kit??
2. By the way, any idea what's the Whiteline suspension kit about??
Konis come into 2 sport grades
red - short stroke sports
yellow - damping adjustability
I've got the Yellows, and are pretty great if you like to tune your ride. If your going for alittle touge fun or some twisties i set mine to about either 1/2 or 3/4 stiffness. But on the streets driving to and from work or just crusing i set the damping to 0 all the way soft for comfort.
Whiteline kits are AUSTRALIAN tuned kits for our cars. If you want suspension done I say buy true blue. They have experience like no other and continualy test their settings to match our conditions that we live in.
I'd preffer whiteline anyday over TRD, TIEN etc.. simply becuase they were properly designed for our driving pleasure.
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seen them all already i think i posted old links..those episodes are good....the start with the type-R and the tureno is awesome...with the 11,000RPM drag :D
The mighty 108KW 20V Silvertop 4AGE owns (vvt!) :D
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Dont drive a sportivo but agree on BP Ultimate.
BP is purely 98RON min of fuel.
Mobil 8000 Is 98Ron too.
Optimax is about 95/96 then added with octane booster like Toluene.
Toluene is indeed the active ingredient in Optimax.It's a quick, dirty and cheap solution to enhance the octane in petrol, As a by-product of the refining process that was mainly burnt off until they found it was a way to turn waste into hi-octane fuel.
Good points of Toluene in petrol, ups the RON number, burns hot and therefore clean.
Had a chat at a guy working at a servo as i enquired about their premium before filling up they only had 95RON mobil stuff As I need to run 98RON+Octane booster all the time. They come either melbourne or qld, optimax comes from Philippines apparently (no wonder why its **** lol)
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i have the ascent. from ascent to levin there is a water bottle behind the fog lamp cover. i removed this. the sportivo does not have this. i am trying to find out what the water bottle is for.
i also removed the snorkel. my car now *tries* to scream. my revs go higher and 2nd gear goes out to 110. when i am outside i can hear it sucking from 5 metres away.
when i turn the engine off you get the cool sound just like the trd cai.
i believe this "water bottle" you speak of is the resonator. It reduces the induction sound (to meet standards), but at the same time, it restricts some of the airflow.when it is removed, you will find that your induction noise is much more obvious, especially at the lower revs.
It also does helps the motor be efficient. It's a tuned part of the induction system on weaker less flowing engines to improve bottom and top end. The resonator will get air redirected into the pocket while off or light throttle and as soon as you mash the peddle it will give it a better feel as there was air ready to be shot into the combustion chamber. Removing this may or may not give you more power depends on your diving style, temp etc.
they spent countless hours desining such a little thing to get the right ammount of air flow etc for the resonator its not like they just placed it there to shut it up.
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Does it actually work?
Yeap it does drops engine bay temps, and as the intercooler is right ontop it vents it out. I've also removed the rubber strip.
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Im out of petty and with the car sitting in the garage I just had todo something.. here's my poor attempt at trying to reduce heatsoak from the i/c and engine bay
Here's something i preprared earlier
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when they did sound testin on them they realised they only had 120somthing kw .
but id like to have mine dynoed to make sure its really 141kw.
love to do it up and get 150+ @ the wheels. i dont think the 14`1kw is @ the wheels though.probably just over 100@ wheels if that
141kw, 1/2 Kw more then the celica becuase it has a longer exhaust system for better flow.
Keep in mind the original System with no ecu, Just bare engine Only Managed around 129kw written on the initial SAE design and pre approval of the engine production.
In Australia We have pretty good fuel.. But not as good as japan for where they get is 100+ RON, the max we get is 98RON and even that isnt genuinely true. The weather conditions we have here and the blends will be 98 at its best. Dont you find when going from different servo's and different days of the weak throttle response might slightly change..
141kw is not at the wheels but at the flywheel (read engine specs there normally qouted at the fly) At the dyno i've seen the sportivos between 100-120kw which all depends on alot of factors, Tyre pressure Ambient air, Intake air temps. Not all dyno's are the same just like all drivers there will always be someone faster then you.
factory and real world outputs that ive seen
To make 140/150kw at the wheels you'd need about roughly 180KW+ at the engine.
Mitsubishi Evo 2.0L makes around the 140kw on all four wheels (206kw fly).
Blacktop SR20DET's make around the 120KW at the wheels factory trim(160-80fly).
4AGZE 1.6L makes 102kw at the front wheels / 2psi Pulley Upgrade / (123kw fly)
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how about $450 for a 50k service on my 1998 starlet life.
yeap thats right what they were going todo on the qoute -
Sparkplugs, Oil filter, Oil change, Timing Check, Check belts, Test drive
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Why was it only a 3rd gear dyno?
Shouldn't it be run on 4th?
1:1 ratio where the engine and gearbox run at the same speed?
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what im talking about is pure hardware only
no ecus, exhaust, nothing but bare engine
this is what they come out fresh from the development rooms.
which explains why the power output is low. sorry if i've missed that out. but thats the point i forgot to mention. i was hoping to share the true factory form of the 2ZZGE.
power purely at hardware (engine) nothing else.
like what the papers say its noodles and if you want more add seasoning.
your car is obviously 153 after adding the flavour :P
the 141 toyota aus (11kw increase from SAE papers) would be due to the exhaust (even on the toyota website it states why it has 1kw more then the celica due the exhaust being longer and able to make more power) intake setup, fuel. This is when the power begins to increase when more stuff is added.
so yeah my post above was about the power outputs. in factory form its around the 130kw region.
Fuel grades, exhaust setups, materials, engine load, wheel size, tyre pressure, ecu maps, intake setup, ambient temp, engine/water temps. etc will effect the final power output. its toyotas job to select parts like we do to make them better/faster. americans usualy have lower power due to the lower qaulity of fuel they have there.
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Hmm its the 4AGE 20V all over again..
Factory Claimed Power output - 127KW
Real world Output - 105Kw
Once aircon, Alternator, Waterpump etc was fitted it lost power.
Toyota seems to be building up a reputation..
Remember while these engines are great they are only Naturaly Aspirated engines so its give and take. Like all cars even ones with the closets modifcations one might be marginaly faster/better from an identical two.
The 2ZZGE's Real Engine Power output is in the 130KW Region and here is the development document to prove it (SAE TECHNICAL PAPER SERIES 2000-01-0671)
Development of the High Speed 2ZZ-GE Engine
Takasuke Shikida, Yoshikatsu Nakamura, Tamio Nakakubo
and Hiroyuki Kawase
Toyota Motor Corp.
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maybe its out of gas? it has been 2 years
also get a check done on the oil level while getting it pressure tested.
double check the fuses too..
mine would light up on the dash but not work it was a stuffed up relay.
also the aircon switch when taken out of the dash has 4 different switches.. its alot of playing around with and is best to trace it all the way from the compressor back to the dash
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$75 is a no profit job.
You can buy the films 3m of tint for about $20 at the shops.
So he's only really getting in $50.
You can go for it if you want. Depending on the film and the way its been applicated will be the lasting factor.
remember back in primary? our school books were contact papered and if you did a crappy job they bubbled, or if you used cheap crap later on you'll find they open up and go all ugly
my dad did his own tints on an 86 magna back in 1990. its 14 years old now and is still the same so I guess it depends on what film is used.
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Why only 3rd gear though? The lower the gear obviously the more power would be displayed out
It should be a 1:1 ratio. Where the engine and wheels spin the same
5 Speed = 4th gear
6 Spd = 5th Gear
Thats when the engines really making those power at the wheels. Ive done tests in 3rd and 4th gear.
3rd 80KW, 4th 65KW
done at the same dyno place as yours sunblest cresent
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100KW 4AGE
Completly Stock
1st run - 9.07 seconds straight road (2K rpm street launch)
2nd run - 8.6 seconds (3.5K/4k launch)
3rd run - 8.9 seconds uphill 12metere incline (6K rpm launch slipping the clutch)
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Here i am following a 89-92 corolla (not sure what it had under the bonnet...had exhaust and that..).....
i'm lookin my rear view..he guns it...and to my shock...as he exits the round about....his back end steps out...and for a second there i thought he was going to spin..but he ended up facing the kerb..and then straightened up.
i was like.......WTF?!?! they aren't rear wheel drive?!?!? are they?
I have one of these and they are FWD FRONT WHEEL DRIVE.
All cars will initiate a slide due to the exceeding limit of grip on the tyres. Its just like how you can slide a worn pair of sneakers on tiles.
Was it an SX/Gti? these models have stiffer suspension settings and thicker front and rear sway bars. It doesn't matter if its rwd or not. It all depends on suspension setup
With my custom setup I can have "Lift off" throttle power steer.
Technique with my car -
Entering normaly, turn in and as you approach the mid section (apex)
lift off the gas
stomp the gas once
apply throttle feeling the weight/balance correct.
Of course that guy would of been scared lack of experience and skill in manouvers like that will freak anybody. Luckily FWDs are pretty forgiving most of the time. Just it feels so **** compared to RWD. You can feel both the momentum and the steering. RWD just have fun mate :)
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so can i come over and play it or what?
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lawrence can i come over and play the demo?
my cousin has one on demo.. its a dvd-r of the prius
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You must be driving the car hard GZE_Bandit to be only getting just over 400km. I average 550km plus with city driving. And premium is the only fuel to use.
Supercharged = super fuel usage :)
same here.. the old 4A engines are a simple design..
any unburn fuel just pops out of the exhaust
you guys have vvti and all this fuel effeciency crap in the new motors
all we have is inject, fire, waste
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cheers :D
its my ae93 but it looks the same as the new corollas anyway they have the same body shape.. just fatter
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here's an idea..
siloute of the rolla
+ the logo above
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Seen ya around a few times.
Where bouts in syd are ya?
I'm in Kellyville.
yeah my friend lives up at kellyvile and another friend up at bellavista.. so im occasionaly down your area
my ride height is 1.5" lower then stock
Clicking Noise
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
Posted
its the clutch release bearing. get it checked out or you clutch could fail on you. this happens when you have done some high RPM launches.
You could potentially bring the springs on the clutch plate.
If the noise dissapers when the clutch is pushed in. its the bearing