The first things I would have mentioned to replace are the air filter as you have been off-roading the vehicle and can clog up badly restricting the intake airflow.
The other one would be the engine oil and filter as this can affect VVT units if the oil is not circulating as well as it should.
Beyond that, I would look at any hoses (induction, vacuum, turbo, etc) to see if there is any restrictions or splits, perishing, etc and replace if necessary.
Worth checking the ABS wheel sensors for correct operation first.
A scan of the ABS could reveal any codes relating to a wheel sensor which may need replacing
Hey everyone,
I'm chasing a persistent issue on my 2006 Highlander/Kluger 3.3L 3MZ-FE and need some input. The problem started after pushing it hard in sand (blew a radiator cap, I replaced it)). On a cold start, it drowns and stumbles. When warm, it idles better but has a serious hesitation and gurgles when applying more than 1/3 throttle at low RPM. Above 2-3k RPM, it pulls much better. The higher the RPM, it feels, the more I can push the throttle. The big problem is a cold start and low RPM - I push the throttle and it gurgles badly. Lots of unburned fuel, misfires, and no power. Only when I baby the throttle - It has gotten stuck twice on exiting Parking garages, I need to go up fast so it reaches 3k rpm or it starts rolling back.
My mechanic confirmed compression is good (all cylinders >130 psi, no leaks) and the base timing belt is still aligned. He pulled codes pointing to a camshaft timing correlation error on Bank 1 (P0012/P0016) and suspects the Bank 1 VVT gear/actuator is faulty.
This is an expensive fix, so I've tried to rule out cheaper items. I did an engine flush, which removed a lot of sludge, and cleaned the OCV filters (they were dirty). The VVT solenoids were bench-tested (at least mechanic said he did it) and clicked OK. The symptoms persist: rough cold idle that smooths out with slight throttle, but severe hesitation/drowning under load at low RPM.
Does this sound like a classic "stuck VVT gear" on Bank 1 to those familiar with the 3MZ-FE? I'm trying to decide if it's worth replacing the Bank 1 VVT solenoid or cam position sensor first, just in case. I also considered unplugging the Bank 1 solenoid as a test to see if the behavior changes.
Any advice from those who've fought this battle would be really appreciated before I spend big on the gear replacement or just use it as is (I am broke atm). 🙏 Thanks
My 2003 100 series sahara ABS and traction control lights come on. The brake performance does not alter. Have you any clues that might help save the cost of new ABS unit.